'21 YukonXL Denali-Click/Pop/Tick from wheel assembly

[Chris01234567]

Evening folks. 2021 Yukon xl Denali 56k miles. For a while now I have noticed a loud what sounds like a “click” coming from the front right and left wheel assembly area. It happens when I drive for any distance then pull into driveway….its when I turn my wheel base to left or right at super low speed. It also happens when in idle or park….but only 1-2 times and then I cannot replicate the sound/click until I drive the car again. I can sit in driveway in park and turn steering wheel to the left and then right for 5 minutes straight and it won’t replicate the sound once it happens the first time….until I drive it again.

I found the tsb someone posted about cleaning the wheel mating face with scotch brite 7447 pad and brake cleaner then using super lube past around the “top hat” but that did NOT do a damn thing.

Anyone else have this same issue and what was the fix if so? I have a Certified Pre-Owned Powertrain warranty up until 100k miles.

Appreciate everyone’s feedback. These trucks are truly trash for the price.

 

[blkfalc4]

Sounds like it could be similar....

21 Yukon bad wheel bearing with only 30000 miles

Hi! I have a 21 Yukon XL. I noticed some clicking type noises in my front end when I would cut the wheel hard to the right or left. I took it to the dealership today and the left front wheel bearing is bad already. My Yukon has 30128 miles on it. Has anyone else had theirs go bad this early in...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Does your truck have CV joints in the front drivetrain? They click when they start to fail and are most noticeable when turning at slow speed. It is low mileage for CV joints to fail on your truck, but if you have them, get them checked out. If the rubber boots on the CV joints get torn, the grease spins out of the joint.

 

[Chris01234567]

Sounds like it could be similar....

21 Yukon bad wheel bearing with only 30000 miles

Hi! I have a 21 Yukon XL. I noticed some clicking type noises in my front end when I would cut the wheel hard to the right or left. I took it to the dealership today and the left front wheel bearing is bad already. My Yukon has 30128 miles on it. Has anyone else had theirs go bad this early in...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Agree with you sir. Could be that same issue. My wheels are tight as can be with no wiggle when lifted on a jack. I also would think the click sound would continue happening each time I turned my wheel if it was indeed bearings going bad. Maybe not tho.

 

[Chris01234567]

Does your truck have CV joints in the front drivetrain? They click when they start to fail and are most noticeable when turning at slow speed. It is low mileage for CV joints to fail on your truck, but if you haver them, get them checked out. If the rubber boots on the CV joints get torn, the grease spins out of the joint.

I do have CV

 

[NELLY1947]

Evening folks. 2021 Yukon xl Denali 56k miles. For a while now I have noticed a loud what sounds like a “click” coming from the front right and left wheel assembly area. It happens when I drive for any distance then pull into driveway….its when I turn my wheel base to left or right at super low speed. It also happens when in idle or park….but only 1-2 times and then I cannot replicate the sound/click until I drive the car again. I can sit in driveway in park and turn steering wheel to the left and then right for 5 minutes straight and it won’t replicate the sound once it happens the first time….until I drive it again.

I found the tsb someone posted about cleaning the wheel mating face with scotch brite 7447 pad and brake cleaner then using super lube past around the “top hat” but that did NOT do a damn thing.

Anyone else have this same issue and what was the fix if so? I have a Certified Pre-Owned Powertrain warranty up until 100k miles.

Appreciate everyone’s feedback. These trucks are truly trash for the price.

It sounds like a wheel berring

Evening folks. 2021 Yukon xl Denali 56k miles. For a while now I have noticed a loud what sounds like a “click” coming from the front right and left wheel assembly area. It happens when I drive for any distance then pull into driveway….its when I turn my wheel base to left or right at super low speed. It also happens when in idle or park….but only 1-2 times and then I cannot replicate the sound/click until I drive the car again. I can sit in driveway in park and turn steering wheel to the left and then right for 5 minutes straight and it won’t replicate the sound once it happens the first time….until I drive it again.

I found the tsb someone posted about cleaning the wheel mating face with scotch brite 7447 pad and brake cleaner then using super lube past around the “top hat” but that did NOT do a damn thing.

Anyone else have this same issue and what was the fix if so? I have a Certified Pre-Owned Powertrain warranty up until 100k miles.

Appreciate everyone’s feedback. These trucks are truly trash for the price.

It sounds like a wheel bearing or U joint bearing. Bring it in to the dealer. My 2019 had a right front wheel bearing fail at 30k

 

[Silvertahoe22]

Evening folks. 2021 Yukon xl Denali 56k miles. For a while now I have noticed a loud what sounds like a “click” coming from the front right and left wheel assembly area. It happens when I drive for any distance then pull into driveway….its when I turn my wheel base to left or right at super low speed. It also happens when in idle or park….but only 1-2 times and then I cannot replicate the sound/click until I drive the car again. I can sit in driveway in park and turn steering wheel to the left and then right for 5 minutes straight and it won’t replicate the sound once it happens the first time….until I drive it again.

I found the tsb someone posted about cleaning the wheel mating face with scotch brite 7447 pad and brake cleaner then using super lube past around the “top hat” but that did NOT do a damn thing.

Anyone else have this same issue and what was the fix if so? I have a Certified Pre-Owned Powertrain warranty up until 100k miles.

Appreciate everyone’s feedback. These trucks are truly trash for the price.

Okay so I think I know what this is. I have a 2022 Tahoe LS. Front driver would do a louder pop usually only once when vehicle was freshly moved in the morning or at night when wheel was turned left or right. The dealership replaced both front hubs for the TSB mentioned below that wasn’t it and they cleaned the rotor hats also wasn’t it. The final solution ladies and gentleman the lower control arm was bent from the factory a new one in and no more noises. The local factory engineer had been to see it and they had replaced the upper control arm as well but it was the lower. Word of caution they did try to claim it wasn’t warranty because it was bent but we held firm we didn’t do it did this since new. Hope this helps and by the way you couldn’t tell the lower control arm was bent until it was out and in comparison to the new one. My guess GM put a bunch of out of tolerance lower control arms on and this is the result

 

[DontTaseMeBro]

Okay so I think I know what this is. I have a 2022 Tahoe LS. Front driver would do a louder pop usually only once when vehicle was freshly moved in the morning or at night when wheel was turned left or right. The dealership replaced both front hubs for the TSB mentioned below that wasn’t it and they cleaned the rotor hats also wasn’t it. The final solution ladies and gentleman the lower control arm was bent from the factory a new one in and no more noises. The local factory engineer had been to see it and they had replaced the upper control arm as well but it was the lower. Word of caution they did try to claim it wasn’t warranty because it was bent but we held firm we didn’t do it did this since new. Hope this helps and by the way you couldn’t tell the lower control arm was bent until it was out and in comparison to the new one. My guess GM put a bunch of out of tolerance lower control arms on and this is the result

Which side lower control arm? Driver or passenger? I have the same exact type of pop on my ‘22 Yukon. Also, did your bumper to bumper warranty cover this or was it the powertrain warranty?

Here's what the sound that mine makes when turning(stationary or driving, happens at random times):

 

[Silvertahoe22]

Which side lower control arm? Driver or passenger? I have the same exact type of pop on my ‘22 Yukon. Also, did your bumper to bumper warranty cover this or was it the powertrain warranty?

Here's what the sound that mine makes when turning(stationary or driving, happens at random times):

Driver lower control arm and I didn’t pay anything in the end not sure if GM owned up or the dealership ate it after the way they treated my wife I’m no longer going back to that place

 

[DontTaseMeBro]

Driver lower control arm and I didn’t pay anything in the end not sure if GM owned up or the dealership ate it after the way they treated my wife I’m no longer going back to that place

Just dropped mine off at the dealer. They were able to hear the same sound I was hearing whilst driving and turning. They are going to attach a wireless chassis ear system to isolate where it's coming from. I did tell them of your account where it was a crooked lower control arm from the factory. Hopefully they can find the culprit.

 

[DontTaseMeBro]

Update: Just got the call that the dealer thinks they found the culprit. One of the exhaust pipes between the manifold and muffler is hitting the cross member. This isn't a surprise since the engine was replaced last year which inevitably means they had to remove and reattach the exhaust. That being said, the work was done by a dealer in Arizona with the previous owner. So this dealer is quoting me $240 to reposition the pipe so that it not longer makes contact with the cross member.

Question for you all, shouldn't this be covered by the 60k power train warranty? I have 44k miles on the odometer.

 

[WalleyeMikeIII]

Update: Just got the call that the dealer thinks they found the culprit. One of the exhaust pipes between the manifold and muffler is hitting the cross member. This isn't a surprise since the engine was replaced last year which inevitably means they had to remove and reattach the exhaust. That being said, the work was done by a dealer in Arizona with the previous owner. So this dealer is quoting me $240 to reposition the pipe so that it not longer makes contact with the cross member.

Question for you all, shouldn't this be covered by the 60k power train warranty? I have 44k miles on the odometer.

Powertrain warranty only covers internally lubricated parts of the engine, transmission, transfer case, and driveline.
That said, if the warranty work was performed and the issue is workmanship of that work, it really should be covered by the warranty...but...you likely have to eat the $240 on this one unless your dealer goes to bat for you.

 

[DontTaseMeBro]

Powertrain warranty only covers internally lubricated parts of the engine, transmission, transfer case, and driveline.
That said, if the warranty work was performed and the issue is workmanship of that work, it really should be covered by the warranty...but...you likely have to eat the $240 on this one unless your dealer goes to bat for you.

Appreciate the quick and detailed response! So is this something you would eat the cost on or would you just say "thanks" and try to fix it yourself? I'm pretty handy with cars. I just don't want to diy if it's something that'll take 3-4 hours to fix. Not worth my time in that case.

 

[WalleyeMikeIII]

Appreciate the quick and detailed response! So is this something you would eat the cost on or would you just say "thanks" and try to fix it yourself? I'm pretty handy with cars. I just don't want to diy if it's something that'll take 3-4 hours to fix. Not worth my time in that case.

Only you can judge the value of your time. If you don't have a lift, might be a bit challenging to pull off yourself, but you could look at it to see what you think. I'd still ask the dealer: "Given the previous warranty work on the vehicle, do you think this was done correctly at engine replacement, or not?" It is possible a road hazard bent something...

 

[DontTaseMeBro]

Only you can judge the value of your time. If you don't have a lift, might be a bit challenging to pull off yourself, but you could look at it to see what you think. I'd still ask the dealer: "Given the previous warranty work on the vehicle, do you think this was done correctly at engine replacement, or not?" It is possible a road hazard bent something...

So I decided to have them fix it. Told me it would be $200(extra $40 was if they ended up needing new exhaust clamps). I did ask about warrantying the work by the previous dealer but was told that they have been given a "hard no" by GM recently for this exact type of thing since it wasn't done by the same shop and it was done over a year ago. They told me that GM would only cover a parts replacement in this case, but not anything that just requires adjustment. Considering that I've been chasing this issue for over 3 months now, I decided to throw in the towel. Been underneath the vehicle too many times trying to find the problem without any luck. Since they are confident in the solution, and taking it for another drive after the fact to ensure it's fixed; I figured just getting it done right now is worth it for me.

 

[DontTaseMeBro]

FML. Their fix didn't work unfortunately. Drove it around the block a few times and didn't hear the sound after I picked up the vehicle. Was nearing my home and rolled the window down again. Lo and behold, heard a loud pop when executing a left turn at about 15 miles an hour. Called the dealership and was told to bring it back for another look... This time I'm going to go for a ride with somebody there so they can hear it with me.

Also stupid me, didn't show them the video that I recorded of this happening on the first page of this thread. That is definitely not any kind of exhaust pipe making contact.

 

[StephenPT]

I was going to reply earlier today but never hit “send.” I just don’t see how this could be an exhaust issue. Nothing changes on the exhaust when you turn a corner. It just didn’t make sense to me and sounds like it wasn’t the fix after all.

Hopefully the dealer does a better job the second time around or at least refunds your money.

If I were you, I’d aim that go-pro at the backing plate/steering knuckle area. See if you can also get the tie-rod end in frame on the video.

 

[DontTaseMeBro]

I was going to reply earlier today but never hit “send.” I just don’t see how this could be an exhaust issue. Nothing changes on the exhaust when you turn a corner. It just didn’t make sense to me and sounds like it wasn’t the fix after all.

Hopefully the dealer does a better job the second time around or at least refunds your money.

If I were you, I’d aim that go-pro at the backing plate/steering knuckle area. See if you can also get the tie-rod end in frame on the video.

Thought that maybe the exhaust moves a little since it’s attached to the engine which is on mounts, inertia and all on turns. I prematurely gave back the camera to my friend. Guess I’ll have to pick it up again. That being said, got a reply from the dealership that the tech saw my video and appreciated the footage lol. Guess maybe they should pay me for my work? Anyways, I’ll be taking it back for round 2…

 

[Tahoe14]

I would talk to the Service Manager and see if something could be worked out on the new repair since the previous repair was misdiagnosed.

 

[DontTaseMeBro]

I would talk to the Service Manager and see if something could be worked out on the new repair since the previous repair was misdiagnosed.

Ya once they find it(hopefully) and tell me what the cost to repair is, I’m going to bring up the misdiagnosis. I have all the emails from him telling me that they found “my sound” but when it came to the invoice, it said that the tech didn’t hear the loud pop that I described to them.