that's not true, you can get a canned tuner that is c.a.r.b legal for california and turn it off, I have mine turned off (not deleted) and no problem with smog because the tune is carb legal.
2017 Tahoe engine swap, advice appreciated
- Thread starter Seanslane
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No way in hell that thing needs a whole new engine. New lifters and pushrods and she'll be good to go. Cam damage is unlikely but possible. If it were mine, I'd tear it down and have a look. You can use factory parts, switch off AFM with a CARB-certified tune, and run it another 250K, easy. If you're on a tight budget and get the parts from RockAuto, I'll bet you can get it humming like new again for $500 in parts and a weekend. You can borrow all of the specialty tools you'll need like the harmonic balancer puller and PS pump pulley puller for free from your local Autozone.
SpyShops212
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You have to inspect the camshaft with a camera or specific tool to see if there was damage. If you got the check engine light then most likely your camshaft is damaged. I didn’t get the check engine light or store codes, just the tick so my camshaft did not get damage. You may have caught it before the camshaft got damaged. You don’t want to drive it after the camshaft got damaged because broken pieces from the camshaft may be in your engine. You could send the oil sample out to get checked as well.
My 2012 tahoe lifter failed and I changed lifters and cam. It can be done quite cheaply (compared to new motor) over a weekend, I had an old mechanic supervising and I had a rough idea what to do from youtube videos and excellent support from this forum and others.
I got a texas speed kit with new non afm lifters, new non afm cam ( but still works with vvt) new gaskets, new timing chain and new oil pump. Other companies do these kits as.well and much cheaper than any option I had here in Canada. I had a local shop tune the afm off prior to starting as I could run the engine straight away after.
It cost me about C$1500 with all the extra maintenance bits I added for long term piece of mind.
30000kms later and it's running strong.
I got a texas speed kit with new non afm lifters, new non afm cam ( but still works with vvt) new gaskets, new timing chain and new oil pump. Other companies do these kits as.well and much cheaper than any option I had here in Canada. I had a local shop tune the afm off prior to starting as I could run the engine straight away after.
It cost me about C$1500 with all the extra maintenance bits I added for long term piece of mind.
30000kms later and it's running strong.
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ivin74
05 NBS Nali
Don't do the delete then, just change the lifters and the lifter trays. Inspect the cam and if you see any scaring or damage replace aswell. Please buy oem parts, DONOT buy aftermarket parts.
If you don't do the delete you will save money, run synthetic oil you will be fine for another 150k miles.
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THarber
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Thats an easy weekend job to pull heads and repalce lifters and pushrods. Don't buy into the new engine BS. If it were mine, I'd pull heads and see what you really have before even considering a new engine. If could be as simple as a loose rocker arm.
Thank you. I appreciate your advice
Thank you. I am going to dive into it soon. Hopefully it hasn’t gotten worse. I need to source all the parts now. I am still trying to figure out what engine I have.
stevedonato
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Get yourself a Toyota Sequoia never needs a new engine.
I like this. I want to go with all original parts. Mostly because I don’t want to do all the research for aftermarket part numbers. I also don’t want to have to worry about smog. But I’m still worried about it running for another 250 K with the CARB certified tune. I thought I had read that even if you keep it on all eight cylinders, the lifters are still junk and can go out?
Thank you. I think that’s I am going to do. I definitely would buy OEM parts.
Won’t work. The DOD cam has a different grind intone AFM lobes that makes them incompatible with non-AFM lifters.
I was going to keep it all stock. Wouldn’t that be keeping the lifters AFM? Sorry I don’t know anything about this as of yet. I’m trying to keep my questions to a minimum until I know more and can ask just what I need to know.
Yes. If you want to keep it all stock, then using new AFM lifters and a new VLOM should be sufficient if there’s no cam damage. With cam damage, you can order the identical cam that it came with for I think less than $200.
I’m going to assume there is cam damage. First the transmission went out. So we paid 5000 for GM to put a new one in. Didn’t have the money to fix it right away so my wife has been driving it 15 miles a day just to work and back. I would say it’s been driven 1000 miles with the tick and the idle is pretty rough now. We have my mother in-laws car for two weeks so I’m going to take it apart now. I still have $25.000 owed on this thing. 3.5 years of payments. That’s 41,000 miles. Hopefully just putting it back stock it will last that long. With a 3 year warranty on the transmission from the dealer. I will probably sell it with 3 months left on the warranty as an incentive to buy.
Get a second opinion!the dealer is trying to get your money and probably misdiagnosed it!
Yea I feel like they would do that for sure. The owner of the dealership is actually my cousins husband. He said it sounds just like the lifter tick. But you are right. Might just need lifters and whatnot but we have driven it like this for 1000 plus miles so not it be cam as well. I’m going to tear into it in the next couple days. I have a few weeks to get it done so I haven’t even ordered any parts yet. We shall see.
ivin74
05 NBS Nali
Keep us posted on the findings
Thank you very much for the reply and advice. I am just now getting around to doing this work. The whole C.A.R.B legal thing is something that I’m unfamiliar with. I will need to find out more information before I make a decision on that. Seems like it would be more complicated than just getting the exact parts from the dealer and put it back to factory specs and know 100% that it will pass smog. But I’m definitely not against it if I can figure it all out.
Would I need new or rebuild the heads to do this work? I can’t just replace the cam, the valves and whatever else? Will the head have damage or something?
