2017 Tahoe engine swap, advice appreciated

[Seanslane]

Our engine is going out in our 2017 5.3 Tahoe. It’s at the dealer now since they just put in a new transmission for $5700. Then they diagnose the engine .Chevy said it’s a lift arm and needs the whole top taken off to replace it all. Best to just change engine. They quoted me $11,000 for a new engine swap with warranty and all. I live in California and barely making it by month to month. Trying to get this done and move back to Pennsylvania. Anyways. I can do it myself. I have everything to do it with help. My biggest hurdle at this time of a sourcing a reliable engine. I would like to do this only once if luck will have it.

I’m accepting any advice necessary even if it’s constructive criticism. I want to weigh all my options and ego is set aside so I can overcome this hurdle. Life is already tough enough as a middle class worker.

A good friend is an ex John deer mechanic and has everything I need to do this and will help and I have swapped engines before in a 2003 ford 7.3.

Advice on where to get an engine?
Best to buy used or reman?
Any other advice or concerns welcome and greatly appreciate.

Thank you

 

[Thrust]

Does it just need new or rebuilt heads?

 

[Seanslane]

Does it just need new or rebuilt heads?

They said it was a lifter. Guess this engine only has one cam shaft. So needs a new cam and all the lifters. Then put heads back on. They said with all parts and labor would be close to what it would be for a new motor. Which was $6k and labor for a total at the $11,000 range.

 

[Thrust]

Wow! If you have the ability to pull the heads get them to a machine shop, you can have them rebuilt. Get yourself a good cam and do an AFM delete. You won't have near $6K into it. Do a search on here as there are several posts about people who have had the same issue and replaced the problem.

AFM/DOD delete kit has arrived

I’m currently using the Pulsar LT and also a Blackbear tune to have my AFM disabled. Even though I’m not having any issues, I thought I’d go ahead and delete the whole system. I went with a BTR stage two cam with upgraded Johnson lifters and trunnion upgrade kit. I’m currently waiting for my...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[Trey Hardy]

I just did a whole top end rebuilt with new cam lifter springs retainers seals etc
Sourced and machined some 243 heads to replace the 899s
Well under 2,000$ doing the work myself
That motor has over 230,000 on the bottom end
My Tahoes motor has close to 350,000 on the original powertrain
My advice is to rebuild the top end and beef it up some with better then factory parts and let er wobble!

 

[Seanslane]

Wow! If you have the ability to pull the heads get them to a machine shop, you can have them rebuilt. Get yourself a good cam and do an AFM delete. You won't have near $6K into it. Do a search on here as there are several posts about people who have had the same issue and replaced the problem.

AFM/DOD delete kit has arrived

I’m currently using the Pulsar LT and also a Blackbear tune to have my AFM disabled. Even though I’m not having any issues, I thought I’d go ahead and delete the whole system. I went with a BTR stage two cam with upgraded Johnson lifters and trunnion upgrade kit. I’m currently waiting for my...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Wow! If you have the ability to pull the heads get them to a machine shop, you can have them rebuilt. Get yourself a good cam and do an AFM delete. You won't have near $6K into it. Do a search on here as there are several posts about people who have had the same issue and replaced the problem.

AFM/DOD delete kit has arrived

I’m currently using the Pulsar LT and also a Blackbear tune to have my AFM disabled. Even though I’m not having any issues, I thought I’d go ahead and delete the whole system. I went with a BTR stage two cam with upgraded Johnson lifters and trunnion upgrade kit. I’m currently waiting for my...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

I am watching a YouTube of a guy that is spot on with his explanation.
I’m just wondering if it’s the same motor as mine. I can research it as well. Not to ask you guys dumb questions. But here is his video name…
How to replace lifters and head gaskets on a Chevy 5.3 Vortec LS engine. COMPLETE GUIDE
He’s AutoRex on you tube. Sorry if I’m not allowed to mention stuff like that on here.
Anyways looks like it’s a complex job. Not impossible by any means. Hardest part obviously for anyone over 50 years old like me and has worked manual labor their whole lives will be the part where you are bent over a front end, or crouched over sitting on a radiator.
The thing that gets me is Chevy charges so much to fix things like this that are from bad design and issues they know about but keep making. Something about the fuel injection or something being notorious for eating the cam. Also the Trans I just had them replace is from a bad torque converter that breaks apart if towing any kind of load, then the metal going through the trans fluid pump eats the tranny.
Thank you for your reply. I appreciate it. Not sure what I’m going to do yet since today is the first I’m learning about the engine issue. But seems rebuilding is the cheapest by far. I’m wondering if there is anything else about the engine I should be worried about. I would hate to do the rebuild and something else go out that I should have addressed while in there.

 

[Seanslane]

I just did a whole top end rebuilt with new cam lifter springs retainers seals etc
Sourced and machined some 243 heads to replace the 899s
Well under 2,000$ doing the work myself
That motor has over 230,000 on the bottom end
My Tahoes motor has close to 350,000 on the original powertrain
My advice is to rebuild the top end and beef it up some with better then factory parts and let er wobble!

Thanks Trey for your response I appreciate it. I’m sure you will read my reply to Thrust. If I can ask you the same.
I would hate to do the rebuild and something else go out that I should have addressed while in there. Engine has 130,000 miles. Should I look at anything or replace anything else? Thank you.

 

[ivin74]

Thanks Trey for your response I appreciate it. I’m sure you will read my reply to Thrust. If I can ask you the same.
I would hate to do the rebuild and something else go out that I should have addressed while in there. Engine has 130,000 miles. Should I look at anything or replace anything else? Thank you.

130k miles is not that many to rebuild the top end. Alot of folks on this forum have done this repair on engines with more miles that yours. A used engine will not be any better than your current engine, unless you buy a new engine. To replace an engine is 2x more work than rebuilding the top end.


I would do like @Trey Hardy did and be done with it.

 

[Seanslane]

Wow! If you have the ability to pull the heads get them to a machine shop, you can have them rebuilt. Get yourself a good cam and do an AFM delete. You won't have near $6K into it. Do a search on here as there are several posts about people who have had the same issue and replaced the problem.

AFM/DOD delete kit has arrived

I’m currently using the Pulsar LT and also a Blackbear tune to have my AFM disabled. Even though I’m not having any issues, I thought I’d go ahead and delete the whole system. I went with a BTR stage two cam with upgraded Johnson lifters and trunnion upgrade kit. I’m currently waiting for my...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

One of the comments on the YouTube video I mentioned said this. I’m assuming this is what you are taking about when you say delete the AFM.
I did read the thread from the link you sent. Thank you for that by the way.
I did read something about when you do a delete that you might have smog problems. Maybe I read that wrong and it pertained to something else. I would love to delete and not run into this problem again. But I’m not sure I can move out of California fast enough to not worry about smog. Here is the guy’s comment.

might aswell just do away with the afm lifters all together buy either a full set of new Is7 lifters (elgin brand $114 ebay) or they do sell half packs of 8 and use the 8 factory lifters usually nothing wrong with them. 2 Is2 lifter buckets. a factory Im7 cam or we cam you choose just make sure it can be used with factory springs if you don't plan on changing them out. and you'll need a 3 bolt 4x cam gear & a 12598832 valley cover you can either use a range to shut off the afm or pay $100 for 2 credits to someone with hp tuners and have them shut it off your vehicle will never go into v4 mode again and you won't have to worry about tearing it all apart again in another 50k miles when the new afm lifters you installed the last time.

 

[Seanslane]

130k miles is not that many to rebuild the top end. Alot of folks on this forum have done this repair on engines with more miles that yours. A used engine will not be any better than your current engine, unless you buy a new engine. To replace an engine is 2x more work than rebuilding the top end.


I would do like @Trey Hardy did and be done with it.

Thank you for the advice. Yea I feel now that replacing an engine would be more work for sure and more money. I also wouldn’t need a shop with the hoist. I could do in my garage.

 

[Seanslane]

I just did a whole top end rebuilt with new cam lifter springs retainers seals etc
Sourced and machined some 243 heads to replace the 899s
Well under 2,000$ doing the work myself
That motor has over 230,000 on the bottom end
My Tahoes motor has close to 350,000 on the original powertrain
My advice is to rebuild the top end and beef it up some with better than factory parts and let er wobble!

Hey Trey, the work you said you did, is that considered a AFM delete as well? Or is it keeping it as a AFM but stronger parts making it last longer. Sorry if that doesn’t make sense. I’m still reading through all the threads to piece it all together. I should have it all retained and deciphered soon.

 

[SpyShops212]

Take your truck to John at Destroyer Auto in Riverside CA. He changed my engine for $5100 on my 2008 Escalade and gave me a 6 year unlimited mile warranty. He changed it in the summer of 2021 and the engine is better than new. I would also buy all 4 OEM o2 sensors and give it to him to change while he is at it. If you buy the OEM engine mounts x2, tranny mounts, belts (I think he includes belts, ask him), all 3 pulleys and water pump he will change it for free or whatever you want to change when he replaces your engine out. The guy that changed the engine worked for GM for decades. John has the correct GM programmer and does neat and clean work. I already put 30k on the new engine and it sounds perfect, even on cold startup, no ticking whatsoever. When I hooked up the programmer I get all zeros on my fuel trims which means the engine he installed is in perfect condition with no flaws. The new engine includes spark plugs and wires as well. John only does engines and he can get it done in a couple of days. He will pick up your truck for free. John will go through everything and tell you what you need the day he replaces your engine. John can also look at your engine and tell you if he could fix yours instead of replacing too. Tell him Stephan with the 2008 Escalade from June 2021 sent you. If you need a A/C guy I have one also near chino hills. The A/C guy fixed my A/C for $160 when everyone told my it was my compressor. My A/C is doing great for the last 3 super hot summers so let me know. I have also a great driveway mechanic to change anything that could be changed in your driveway. If you have 130k than I would replace the engine because it won’t last much longer. Just call John and let him give you his advice. He is the best engine mechanic in South Cali. My rear seal was leaking on my 2008 Escalade also I had the oil pressure light. I spent 3k trying different things to fix an engine with 190k. I wasted 3k for no reason. The engine replacement might be your best bet.

I just told you what to replace with your engine so you probably will save a decent amount money by buying the parts from GMdirect.com and bringing to John.

John will answer his phone for you 24/7.

The first and last is my old engine and the three in the middle is my new one. John even replaced my header shields for free. He is awesome. I don’t work for him. I live in Texas now and I recently purchased a 2018 Escalade and when my engine fails I will bring it back to Cali to John for sure. I will have him order the engine and when it arrives I will stay in a hotel for 2 days while he changes my engine.

 

[Trey Hardy]

Hey Trey, the work you said you did, is that considered a AFM delete as well? Or is it keeping it as a AFM but stronger parts making it last longer. Sorry if that doesn’t make sense. I’m still reading through all the threads to piece it all together. I should have it all retained and deciphered soon.

Yes afm and dod delete
Used Texas speed parts mainly because the price was right
I had to swap out the camshaft in the process
Along with a new valley cover
New lifters and trays
Did springs retainers and pushrods for preventative maintenance

 

[Seanslane]

Take your truck to John at Destroyer Auto in Riverside CA. He changed my engine for $5100 on my 2008 Escalade and gave me a 6 year unlimited mile warranty. He changed it in the summer of 2021 and the engine is better than new. I would also buy all 4 OEM o2 sensors and give it to him to change while he is at it. If you buy the OEM engine mounts x2, tranny mounts, belts (I think he includes belts, ask him), all 3 pulleys and water pump he will change it for free or whatever you want to change when he replaces your engine out. The guy that changed the engine worked for GM for decades. John has the correct GM programmer and does neat and clean work. I already put 30k on the new engine and it sounds perfect, even on cold startup, no ticking whatsoever. When I hooked up the programmer I get all zeros on my fuel trims which means the engine he installed is in perfect condition with no flaws. The new engine includes spark plugs and wires as well. John only does engines and he can get it done in a couple of days. He will pick up your truck for free. John will go through everything and tell you what you need the day he replaces your engine. John can also look at your engine and tell you if he could fix yours instead of replacing too. Tell him Stephan with the 2008 Escalade from June 2021 sent you. If you need a A/C guy I have one also near chino hills. The A/C guy fixed my A/C for $160 when everyone told my it was my compressor. My A/C is doing great for the last 3 super hot summers so let me know. I have also a great driveway mechanic to change anything that could be changed in your driveway. If you have 130k than I would replace the engine because it won’t last much longer. Just call John and let him give you his advice. He is the best engine mechanic in South Cali. My rear seal was leaking on my 2008 Escalade also I had the oil pressure light. I spent 3k trying different things to fix an engine with 190k. I wasted 3k for no reason. The engine replacement might be your best bet.

I just told you what to replace with your engine so you probably will save a decent amount money by buying the parts from GMdirect.com and bringing to John.

John will answer his phone for you 24/7.

The first and last is my old engine and the three in the middle is my new one. John even replaced my header shields for free. He is awesome. I don’t work for him. I live in Texas now and I recently purchased a 2018 Escalade and when my engine fails I will bring it back to Cali to John for sure. I will have him order the engine and when it arrives I will stay in a hotel for 2 days while he changes my engine.


View attachment 400160

Thank you. I appreciate the reply. I have not yet come to a decision on a swap or repair. If I do a swap and buy a GM motor but to have the warranty it obviously has to be done by ASE certified so at that point I really don’t care to much who does it because it will have a warranty. Since I’m in Sacramento it would be a hassle to take it to socal. The motor itself is $5800 so it’s already over my budget. If I buy used motor it’s $2500-$4000 but it’s used. Sounds like best bet is to repair myself in the $2500 range. At least the top end will be done and deleted. Eliminating the AFM problem. Making it a better engine.

 

[Seanslane]

Yes afm and dod delete
Used Texas speed parts mainly because the price was right
I had to swap out the camshaft in the process
Along with a new valley cover
New lifters and trays
Did springs retainers and pushrods for preventative maintenance

Awesome. Yea I would do springs retainers and push rods as well. Seems like they would be the easiest thing to go out on you and easily replaced. Did you say around how much you spent on whole thing? Sorry. I can’t go back and look in this screen.

 

[Trey Hardy]

Thank you. I appreciate the reply. I have not yet come to a decision on a swap or repair. If I do a swap and buy a GM motor but to have the warranty it obviously has to be done by ASE certified so at that point I really don’t care to much who does it because it will have a warranty. Since I’m in Sacramento it would be a hassle to take it to socal. The motor itself is $5800 so it’s already over my budget. If I buy used motor it’s $2500-$4000 but it’s used. Sounds like best bet is to repair myself in the $2500 range. At least the top end will be done and deleted. Eliminating the AFM problem. Making it a better engine.

Again my Tahoe in my profile pic has close to 350,000 miles on it and I’ve already had two lifters “collapse” on my and luckily I was able to bring them back with some marvel mystery oil and running the dog shit out of my motor until the lifter tap cleared up.
I scarred the piston on my Silverado when my valve spring broke and dropped a valve. I buffed it out and sent it! Still holding up good and running like a scolded dog!

Cam was around 300$
Lifters and trays another 150$ or so
Springs and retainers another 150$ or so
New gaskets and seals and head bolts another 200-300$
Machine work and rebuilding the heads 350$
243 heads 150$
Pushrods 175$ +\-
I’m sure I’m forgetting some stuff
Prices varies just off the top of my head from what I can remember
I was well under 1500$ to start with but I stripped the head bolt threads out the block causing me to have to buy a head bolt repair kit costing 750$ which put me over the 2,000$ mark but if that wouldn’t of happened I would’ve been around the 1500$ range before fluids tuning etc I’d shoot for atleast 2,000$ to do it right and beef it up while your in there

 

[Seanslane]

Again my Tahoe in my profile pic has close to 350,000 miles on it and I’ve already had two lifters “collapse” on my and luckily I was able to bring them back with some marvel mystery oil and running the dog shit out of my motor until the lifter tap cleared up.
I scarred the piston on my Silverado when my valve spring broke and dropped a valve. I buffed it out and sent it! Still holding up good and running like a scolded dog!
View attachment 400171
Cam was around 300$
Lifters and trays another 150$ or so
Springs and retainers another 150$ or so
New gaskets and seals and head bolts another 200-300$
Machine work and rebuilding the heads 350$
243 heads 150$
Pushrods 175$ +\-
I’m sure I’m forgetting some stuff
Prices varies just off the top of my head from what I can remember
I was well under 1500$ to start with but I stripped the head bolt threads out the block causing me to have to buy a head bolt repair kit costing 750$ which put me over the 2,000$ mark but if that wouldn’t of happened I would’ve been around the 1500$ range before fluids tuning etc I’d shoot for atleast 2,000$ to do it right and beef it up while your in there

Nice. Love it. Thank you. I’m definitely leaning towards rebuilding. With or without the delete. I just need to research if it will pass smog in Cali if I delete. Sure I will find it in the Delete threads.

 

[Seanslane]

Nice. Love it. Thank you. I’m definitely leaning towards rebuilding. With or without the delete. I just need to research if it will pass smog in Cali if I delete. Sure I will find it in the Delete threads.

I called the GM technician. They said when you do a delete the changes in the computer that are needed will be detected by California smog stations at time of smog and be an instant fail.
Great.
Last Chevy I buy that’s newer than a 73. These companies are so big they can put out a new design with no real world testing or they do test and know that they will have a %30 failure rate and we can’t do anything about it. Then they charge us to fix it. Companies like this don’t get my approval and definitely not my praise.

 

[Trey Hardy]

Find you a cousin out of state to go get inspections and tags though lol

 

[SpyShops212]

Awesome. Yea I would do springs retainers and push rods as well. Seems like they would be the easiest thing to go out on you and easily replaced. Did you say around how much you spent on whole thing? Sorry. I can’t go back and look in this screen.

It was $5100 for the whole engine with new headers, header shields, spark plugs, belts & wires. John recommended new water pump & mounts so I paid him to do it too. I purchased a transmission shifter cable so he installed it for free. John doesn’t charge for the small thing like wire harnesses or whatever else that is needed to get the work done.