2014 Yukon 6.2L lifter noise

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I was finally able to get a video sound clip what my engine with the ticking noise. I have a 2014 Yukon XL Denali with the 6.2. It has about 115k on the Yukon. It doesn't get driven but maybe once or twice a week. Normal oil change intervals with the oil life reminder helping out.


This sure sounds like a collapsed Lifter and/or a wiped CAM. With the AFM, these engines (both the 6.2 and the 5.3) really like Full synthetic oil and regular oil changes. When it drops from 8 to 4 cyl mode, with old conventional dirty oil, it's my understanding that they are very susceptible to wiping camshafts. Many of the GM dealerships are using full synthetic only (no blends) and that's all I would ever use in our Yukons and Suburban.
 
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theJime

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I been gathering my parts for the rebuild. Picked up some lifters and 1 of the 16 looks odd. I am returning but wanted to get an opinion from this group. Would you use this lifter?
A160657D-A696-4283-BA89-937B81B7D4F9.jpeg
 
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theJime

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Comparison photo. 15 look like the bottom lifter and then the 1 discolored lifter. Just not looking to have an issue after getting the engine put back together. I’ve seen a couple of builds go wrong from bad replacement parts.

Also, I reached out and a replacement lifter is on its way.
B729CAFB-5BBB-4E17-B14E-43FC43795EA0.jpeg
 

Geotrash

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Comparison photo. 15 look like the bottom lifter and then the 1 discolored lifter. Just not looking to have an issue after getting the engine put back together. I’ve seen a couple of builds go wrong from bad replacement parts.

Also, I reached out and a replacement lifter is on its way. View attachment 400226
Looks like the Steel got hot during the machining process. Perhaps their grinding machine ran out of cutting oil.
 

Dustin Jackson

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Had to replace me son's engine at 126K. Lifters failed and sounds like yours. Crankcase was full of metal. No hope of just replacing lifers.
That sounds like worse case lifter failure. This is why I recommend opening the motor and inspecting it before people go ordering parts before they find the extent of the damage
 
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theJime

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So, after I started this rebuild journey, I have experienced several personal setbacks which are forcing me to not proceed with my original plans. I now have to approach this project with the minimalistic rebuild approach. So, I ask if anyone has successfully just replaced the bad collapsed lifter and need gaskets, bolts and such? I just need to get the truck back on the road. Also I will be having the AFM tuned out. This is not the approach I want to go but its the path I am forced to go with my current situation. I can hopefully readdress the full mechanical delate at a later time as I have already gotten most of the parts I need and was just waiting on a few other items. I appreciate any advice on this newly planned route.
 

Geotrash

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So, after I started this rebuild journey, I have experienced several personal setbacks which are forcing me to not proceed with my original plans. I now have to approach this project with the minimalistic rebuild approach. So, I ask if anyone has successfully just replaced the bad collapsed lifter and need gaskets, bolts and such? I just need to get the truck back on the road. Also I will be having the AFM tuned out. This is not the approach I want to go but its the path I am forced to go with my current situation. I can hopefully readdress the full mechanical delate at a later time as I have already gotten most of the parts I need and was just waiting on a few other items. I appreciate any advice on this newly planned route.
Sorry to hear about the personal setbacks. That sucks, man. But you have the right thought process. Yes, you can get by with just replacing the failed lifter(s), but I would do the whole bank of lifters on that side, along with new trays. But take care to do a good inspection of the cam for any damage through the lifter bores. Any damage or pitting at all, and that new lifter won't make 1000 miles, so the cam would need to come out. It would also be a good idea to replace the VLOM as they're often the source of AFM failures.
 
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theJime

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Sorry to hear about the personal setbacks. That sucks, man. But you have the right thought process. Yes, you can get by with just replacing the failed lifter(s), but I would do the whole bank of lifters on that side, along with new trays. But take care to do a good inspection of the cam for any damage through the lifter bores. Any damage or pitting at all, and that new lifter won't make 1000 miles, so the cam would need to come out. It would also be a good idea to replace the VLOM as they're often the source of AFM failures.
Thanks for the response. My failed lifter was on #4, are you saying replace the lifters on 2,4,6,8 or just 2 & 4 that share the same tray? Thanks for advising me on the VLOM as well. My heads are being machined as well so I can have that smooth mating surface. and valves lapped Any concerns with just using the same springs and pushrods(if they inspect okay) since I am sticking with the factory cam now, hopefully? I don't think there is any damage to the cam. As the truck was parked as soon as I first heard that tick, with only occasional running for a few minutes at a time for diagnosis. I will inspect it to ensure.
 

Geotrash

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Thanks for the response. My failed lifter was on #4, are you saying replace the lifters on 2,4,6,8 or just 2 & 4 that share the same tray? Thanks for advising me on the VLOM as well. My heads are being machined as well so I can have that smooth mating surface. and valves lapped Any concerns with just using the same springs and pushrods(if they inspect okay) since I am sticking with the factory cam now, hopefully? I don't think there is any damage to the cam. As the truck was parked as soon as I first heard that tick, with only occasional running for a few minutes at a time for diagnosis. I will inspect it to ensure.
If you’re taking both heads off, then replace all lifters and trays, along with the VLOM. One root cause of lifter failure is worn engagement pins on the lifters themselves, and another is sluggish solenoids in the VLOM. It’s cheap insurance against future failure. And use OEM lifter trays only or you’ll be tearing it apart again in a few weeks. Ask me how I know ;-)
 

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