2014 Yukon 6.2L lifter noise

[theJime]

I was finally able to get a video sound clip what my engine with the ticking noise. I have a 2014 Yukon XL Denali with the 6.2. It has about 115k on the Yukon. It doesn't get driven but maybe once or twice a week. Normal oil change intervals with the oil life reminder helping out.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Yup gonna need to have that fixed

 

[swathdiver]

I had an exhaust gasket blow out on the passenger side that sounded like that once. But it's probably a collapsed lifter.

 

[theJime]

Okay, thanks for confirming my thoughts. I had a 2005 pathfinder that I had to do some top and front end engine work on when replacing the timing chain tensioners so I feel I can complete this job. I have gotten a replacement vehicle for the family so I don't feel rushed with he job. Time to start gathering parts. I took the part list from Geotrash and his journey as a starting point but since I have replaced the family vehicle I want to upgrade the cam(and related components) along with an upgraded torque converter.

 

[B-train]

Most definitely a lifter. What a bummer at 115K. I hope the repair goes well for you

 

[petethepug]

2014 YXL Denali, you’re at least, a minimum halfway through the useable lifespan of that drivetrain and truck.

Remove the offending part(s), get the appropriate tune and enjoy the boring longevity and performance of a L86 without AFM. Make sure you order over the phone so you get a Gen4 kit as Gen5 L86 start in 2014 for trucks.

2014 GMC Yukon XL Denali 6.2, ~ 145,000 miles now has lifter tick.
I'm looking into delete kits from Texas Speed and https://briantooleyracing.com/ and https://www.texas-speed.com/.
Any other suggested suppliers?

How involved is it to replace the oil pump?
What is the easiest way of having the ECM reprogrammed to work without the AFM/DOD pieces in place.

 

[Geotrash]

2014 YXL Denali, you’re at least, a minimum halfway through the useable lifespan of that drivetrain and truck.

Remove the offending part(s), get the appropriate tune and enjoy the boring longevity and performance of a L86 without AFM. Make sure you order over the phone so you get a Gen4 kit as Gen5 L86 start in 2014 for trucks.

Are you sure that the 2014 has the L86? I thought that engine shipped in the 2014 Sierra but the Yukon got the L94.

 

[petethepug]

L94 I’m sure. Fingers typed what they wanted though. Ty for noticing that

 

[swathdiver]

It's an L94

 

[theJime]

it is def a L94. I plan on keeping the Yukon for as long as possible. Especially now that I got a new vehicle for the wife and kids, so they can stay out of it.

I am just looking to get more towing power out of the upgrade/rebuild. Not looking for a hot rod. Just upgrades that will make me a little less anxious while towing. Towing was the primary reason for the purchase. I have had it since 2015 at ~19k miles.

 

[Geotrash]

it is def a L94. I plan on keeping the Yukon for as long as possible. Especially now that I got a new vehicle for the wife and kids, so they can stay out of it.

I am just looking to get more towing power out of the upgrade/rebuild. Not looking for a hot rod. Just upgrades that will make me a little less anxious while towing. Towing was the primary reason for the purchase. I have had it since 2015 at ~19k miles.

Sounds exactly like what my priorities were when I started my build. Really, really happy with the results now. With the benefit of hindsight, there are a few things I would do differently if I were starting over. One is that I wouldn't worry about the trunnion upgrade. Another is that I would have the heads sent out for a proper valve job. Finally, I wouldn't use Fel-Pro valve cover gaskets and would instead choose either Mahle or OEM. I might also research valve springs a bit more and perhaps "spring" for a set of PAC's. Everything else I would do the same way all over again.

 

[theJime]

Perfect feedback, thank you. I am hoping that combining the DOD delete with a proper torque converter, adding better air intake to the stock intake manifold, and adding long tube headers, I will get somewhere near where I want to be with the truck.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@theJime You are basically bulletproofing this motor, it's going to run better than ever.

 

[B-train]

Or just look for a good used motor from a Sierra Denali that had no AFM. Not sure what the cost would be, but maybe and easier process overall?

 

[Geotrash]

Perfect feedback, thank you. I am hoping that combining the DOD delete with a proper torque converter, adding better air intake to the stock intake manifold, and adding long tube headers, I will get somewhere near where I want to be with the truck.

Pretty hard to gain any benefits on the intake of one of these (unless you install a Maggie ), but the long tube headers will definitely help you take better advantage of the bigger cam.

Just took the 2012 out to the liquor store and every time I drive it it makes me smile. The difference in responsiveness and the feeling of power under foot between it and my 2007 is stark. That Cam Motion cam wakes that engine up!

 

[Geotrash]

Or just look for a good used motor from a Sierra Denali that had no AFM. Not sure what the cost would be, but maybe and easier process overall?

L9H's with 160K are running about $4500 around here.

 

[theJime]

The stock intake manifold is great on this truck., no need to replace. I was referring to getting colder air to it. Lower air temps will help get a lower rpm torque gain.

I checked on grabbing a used motor and going that route but the place I found was 5200 and no clue to history. I would still want to replace the internals. I can just rebuild the one I have without that added cost of the starting point.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Problem is when your replacement motor has a lifter failure, I would stick to building with the block you have been taking care of rather than rolling the dice on another time bomb.

 

[Hoelimited]

Also I'd go ahead and get the torque converter changed and also have a tuner tune the transmission. Makes it drive a lot better. Also get a ZL1 converter. They're better made and the stall speed is a little bit higher than stock. If you want complete worry free driving, get a billet converter. Let me explain why- partly why the 6l80/90 converters fail is because of the mounting points to the flywheel. The factory converters are welded on the disc. (Bottom half of converter) that heat warps that plate. You get the "chevy shimmy" at certain speeds and other issues. The zl1s are done a little better but the billet is cut by cnc as 1 piece. No welding anywhere. The converter stays straight and the tranny will last a long time

 

[Geotrash]

Also I'd go ahead and get the torque converter changed and also have a tuner tune the transmission. Makes it drive a lot better. Also get a ZL1 converter. They're better made and the stall speed is a little bit higher than stock. If you want complete worry free driving, get a billet converter. Let me explain why- partly why the 6l80/90 converters fail is because of the mounting points to the flywheel. The factory converters are welded on the disc. (Bottom half of converter) that heat warps that plate. You get the "chevy shimmy" at certain speeds and other issues. The zl1s are done a little better but the billet is cut by cnc as 1 piece. No welding anywhere. The converter stays straight and the tranny will last a long time

100%. I put a billet converter made by CVC (model BU60FHD) in my 2012 for that very reason.