2013 AFM Failure -> Delete Kit advice

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MagicMike

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My 2013 Tahoe, 5.3L, has the AFM Lifter failure (Cylinder #3, P300 and intermittent P303 errors from the OBDII). On top of the noise, the transmission is shifting hard now. Took it to shop and they confirmed the issues.

I'm going to go the AFM delete route and get it back up and running (non-AFM lifters, CAM swap, new tune deleting AFM). Is there any advice on Delete kits? Any experience?

I've looked at Texas Speed (TSP), AMS Racing and Scoggins-Dickey (SDPC). So far, it would appear the AMS kit is the most complete, seeing as though it includes a tuner.


Appreciate the help, advice and/or warnings.
 

swathdiver

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Not a fan of any kits. They all use camshafts smaller than the one you are taking out, this one is no exception.

I would stick with GM OE or well known companies like ARP and Fel-Pro and Melling, etc.

As for the camshaft, it is ground to work with VVT, which your truck has, and you can be back up and running quickly with that kit.

If you have more time and budget, consider a different camshaft using VVT or delete it and run a Truck Norris or Truck Torque camshaft. You'll need a proper tune to dial those cams in.
 

91RS

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Cylinder 3 isn't an AFM cylinder.

Gwatney Performance has a great selection of OEM parts and they also offer some mild VVT cams if you want to get a little more power while you're in there.
 

robgreg75

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How many miles? You can reset the tranny to not shift so hard, basically a relearn. I rebuilt mine (at 192,000 miles after a torque converter lock fail) 76,000 miles ago and used on of the mod kits for the 6L80 and it shifts perfectly ever since I haven't had to do any tranny relearns again. It works better than it did new.
 

TollKeeper

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Having done it recently.. Unless your cam is wiped, dont do the kit. Just replace the lifters with DOD lifters, do the VLOM plug/mod, and get it tuned out.

I have yet to see any failures from people that have just tuned them out.
 
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MagicMike

MagicMike

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UPDATE: AMS Racing kit was purchased and had a Mechanic install it. No issues in the swap, running just fine now. Mechanic said the tune requires 91 Octane, which I'm a little suspicious of. Since I didn't put the tune in myself I'll probably adhere to this for a bit to ensure no issues. Eventually I'll see about playing with it and see if I can get it lower in Octane.
 

91RS

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If he said it is now tuned for 91 then you need to run 91.
 
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MagicMike

MagicMike

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UPDATE: Forgot to comment on the shifting: That's gone. Having read through a few things here and on some other sites, I thought it was linked to the large number of misfires. I think that may have been what it was, but, I don't know definitively.

Additionally, the Stabilitrak and Traction Control service lights/warning did come on. That was corrected thanks to a fuse they pulled to prime the fuel pump. No issues since.
 

Meccanoble

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Just curious why people not a fan of AFM delete software/flash. I have had it for 100k miles. Its cheaper, simpler. What is the reason to NOT go this route?
 

iamdub

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Just curious why people not a fan of AFM delete software/flash. I have had it for 100k miles. Its cheaper, simpler. What is the reason to NOT go this route?

Software flash/tuning is an AFM disable. The lifters and VLOM, with all the extra moving parts (failure points) are still there. Keeping the AFM lifters locked up like normal lifters really helps. But, some still develop issues and failure is still a possibility. Having them inactive is a hell of a Band-Aid, but not 100% reliable as is a delete. I agree with a disable if it solves the current issues and that's all you're wanting. I did this when mine was slow to disengage (already had updated VLOM) but chose to delete it about 40K miles later to eliminate it as a potential failure. Some have a failure that simply disabling the system won't resolve.
 
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swathdiver

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Just curious why people not a fan of AFM delete software/flash. I have had it for 100k miles. Its cheaper, simpler. What is the reason to NOT go this route?
I had mine turned off in the tune 50K+ miles ago. Less expensive than a physical delete. Still plan to do it someday, not in a hurry.
 

Ivanhoe

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Just curious why people not a fan of AFM delete software/flash. I have had it for 100k miles. Its cheaper, simpler. What is the reason to NOT go this route?
I was unaware how common an issue it was until lifters failed and I started looking online.
 

Geotrash

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Just curious why people not a fan of AFM delete software/flash. I have had it for 100k miles. Its cheaper, simpler. What is the reason to NOT go this route?
The main reason for me was the opportunity to put a bigger cam in it for better towing performance and to refresh the valvetrain components in the process. Really happy with the setup I have now and hope to have it last another 150K+.

Side note: I like to keep cars until the wheels fall off. It's possible that my 2012 will last me another 10-15 years in this climate. Neither my wife nor I have a commute for work, so it only gets driven on camping trips or when we need to haul 8 people.
 

91RS

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Just curious why people not a fan of AFM delete software/flash. I have had it for 100k miles. Its cheaper, simpler. What is the reason to NOT go this route?

If you’re going into the engine because you have failed lifters there’s no reason not to delete it at that point so you never have to do it again. Or if you want to delete the hardware before it fails.
 

Meccanoble

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Software flash/tuning is an AFM disable. The lifters and VLOM, with all the extra moving parts (failure points) are still there. Keeping the AFM lifters locked up like normal lifters really helps. But, some still develop issues and failure is still a possibility. Having them inactive is a hell of a Band-Aid, but not 100% reliable as is a delete. I agree with a disable if it solves the current issues and that's all you're wanting. I did this when mine was slow to disengage (already had updated VLOM) but chose to delete it about 40K miles later to eliminate it as a potential failure. Some have a failure that simply disabling the system won't resolve.

Wow I didnt know I was still at risk. I didnt have an issue, I did it as preventative after hearing all the concerns out there. I'm assuming this does not affect everyone. There are a lot of AFM trucks out there. Have we confirmed what puts you at higher risk of lifter issues? What would someone that believes in AFM do to keep using it and survive?
 

91RS

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There is nothing you can do really. You came take impeccable care of your truck or the worst care of it and the lifters could last 20k miles or 200k miles.
 

Ivanhoe

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It also gave me an opportunity to replace the timing chain, oil pump, new exhaust bolts (replace snapped ones), new spark plugs, oil pan clean (full of gunk) coolant change along with lifters cam etc. Full Afm delete is preventative maintenance for the engine in the long run as you have removed potential weak links.

Kinda regretting not putting a spicier cam in but that would add even more cost with new springs and vvt delete. People always forget how quickly cost adds up with all the little extras. ...
 

iamdub

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Wow I didnt know I was still at risk. I didnt have an issue, I did it as preventative after hearing all the concerns out there. I'm assuming this does not affect everyone. There are a lot of AFM trucks out there. Have we confirmed what puts you at higher risk of lifter issues?

As far as I know, the most failures seem to be related to maintenance, or the lack thereof. Between the VLOM and tiny passages in the lifters, the system is extra sensitive to buildup of gunk from using crap oil and/or too long of oil change intervals. The best you can do is keep clean, high quality oil in it.


What would someone that believes in AFM do to keep using it and survive?

The parts themselves were improved from 2010+. If yours is '07-'09, get the updated VLOM and lifters and keep clean, high quality oil in it. Unless most of your driving is cruising at ~65MPH or slower for extended periods with no stops, hills, headwinds or traffic, AFM won't save you enough to outweigh the risk.

Nothing guarantees "survival". It will always be a risk. Doing the above is the most you can do to minimize your risk of failure. You can eliminate the risk of failure resulting from a lack of maintenance, but the risk of the parts failing from something beyond your control will always be there. Do your best and, if you're fortunate, you'll have some sort of warning before it fails, such as ticking lifter(s), odd stumbling, etc. and can take it out before it takes out your engine. Some aren't so fortunate and that's where the horror stories of "Had the fam on a road trip when my dash lit up like a Christmas tree and the engine was clicking/knocking" come from.

Deleting AFM makes the engine as reliable as the Gen 3, but with upgraded parts such as rods, heads and intake manifold.
 
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91RS

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It also gave me an opportunity to replace the timing chain, oil pump, new exhaust bolts (replace snapped ones), new spark plugs, oil pan clean (full of gunk) coolant change along with lifters cam etc. Full Afm delete is preventative maintenance for the engine in the long run as you have removed potential weak links.

Kinda regretting not putting a spicier cam in but that would add even more cost with new springs and vvt delete. People always forget how quickly cost adds up with all the little extras. ...
No reason to delete VVT in a big heavy truck.
 

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