2010 Yukon Denali 6.2 exhaust

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2010yukondenali

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I have a 2010 Yukon Denali 6.2 liter and am looking to sport it up. My complete plan is to put a Supercharger on it and upgrade the exhaust and put a tune in it. I am having a hell of a time finding a complete exhaust system. What do I do? I would really like a dual exhaust system straight out the rear or both sides but apparently that’s not a smart idea.?.? I just don’t like the single side output but that’s all I can find. Is it really that bad of an idea to deviate from factory design? I want to make 650+ from 403 hp. Another thing is if I went with a Whipple I would need to change the diff ratio? Not much pulling going on just want speed. It will never see more than 4000lbs with my trailer going to the man store to get lumber or something for the house. Can someone lead me the right direction?
 
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Can't help with the exhaust, but I think it's going to take more than a supercharger, exhaust, and a tune to get 650+hp

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
 
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2010yukondenali

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i Watched a video on a denali just like mine and I swear it said 445 hp from a Whipple supercharger and exhaust upgrade. Other than that the website says to expect dramatic increase upwards of 150+. I know for sure 6000+$ for 45 horse is a waste of money. I don’t know what to believe. All I know is I want to boost this truck and don’t know what way to go. Inhale and exhale from what I know is a good start. Maybe put twins under the hood? There isn’t much info on my particular truck that I can find.
 

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the factory exhaust on your truck is already 3 1/2", changing it out for another 3 1/2 is kind of a waste, add a cai and a better muffler she'll breath just fine, if you really want stainless both corsa and borla sell a bolt on system and a few others just keep in mind your local muffler shop can do the same for 1/2 the price. I thought about doing it to mine but the dam thing is 3 1/2" already so I just deleted the last resonator and put a borla straight thru muffler and saved a bunch of money. Kind of like Geico
 

swathdiver

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I have a 2010 Yukon Denali 6.2 liter and am looking to sport it up. My complete plan is to put a Supercharger on it and upgrade the exhaust and put a tune in it. I am having a hell of a time finding a complete exhaust system. What do I do? I would really like a dual exhaust system straight out the rear or both sides but apparently that’s not a smart idea.?.? I just don’t like the single side output but that’s all I can find. Is it really that bad of an idea to deviate from factory design? I want to make 650+ from 403 hp. Another thing is if I went with a Whipple I would need to change the diff ratio? Not much pulling going on just want speed. It will never see more than 4000lbs with my trailer going to the man store to get lumber or something for the house. Can someone lead me the right direction?

Flowmaster and Gibson make dual systems that exit behind each rear wheel.

https://gibsonperformance.com/i-227...tml#!year=2010||make=GMC||model=YUKON, DENALI

The Escalade Sport deleted the spare and ran its dual exhausts straight out the rear bumper. Some guys on here have done the conversion and photographed it.

I prefer the look too but don't want anyone getting burned while refueling; we never shut down for refueling.
 

Joseph Garcia

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Gibson Extreme exhaust is a cat-back dual exhaust system, exiting behind each rear wheel with a 5" tip. It is loud and can have a drone on extended upgrades on highways, that many folks would not like.
 
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2010yukondenali

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Yes that is a bit aggressive for my taste but the general point of just doing a cat back was appreciated. I’m looking into it to see what is out there. Would headers be a good upgrade? And if so long tube?
 

iamdub

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An extra 250HP from boosting 376 cubes isn't far-fetched at all. Keeping boost in mind, you can't go wrong setting up your exhaust for more flow. Go for 1 7/8" long tubes. By "dual exhaust" do you mean actual dual pipes from each cylinder bank all the way back or you mean dual exits? The problem with dual exit exhaust is the packaging- there's just no feasible way to route it and have it come out the back. That's why it being an option on the Escalade requires deleting the spare tire. The aftermarket kits have it exit just behind the tires so the spare can stay. You can run dual pipes all the way if you run them right next to each other. Definitely use an X- or H-pipe. There are dual in/dual out mufflers that have the X-pipe feature built into them. If running a true dual system, dual 3" would be appropriate and a minimum for 650HP. A single (not counting if you split it) 3.5" may be choking it a little at higher RPM.
 

Joseph Garcia

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Iamdub is correct, stating that a dual exhaust, with one pipe exiting on each side, must eliminate the spare tire and its heat shield, in order to accomplish the mod. That is the case with my Gibson Extreme dual exhaust system, and Gibson was right up front in their literature about this restriction, prior to my purchase.
 
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2010yukondenali

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An extra 250HP from boosting 376 cubes isn't far-fetched at all. Keeping boost in mind, you can't go wrong setting up your exhaust for more flow. Go for 1 7/8" long tubes. By "dual exhaust" do you mean actual dual pipes from each cylinder bank all the way back or you mean dual exits? The problem with dual exit exhaust is the packaging- there's just no feasible way to route it and have it come out the back. That's why it being an option on the Escalade requires deleting the spare tire. The aftermarket kits have it exit just behind the tires so the spare can stay. You can run dual pipes all the way if you run them right next to each other. Definitely use an X- or H-pipe. There are dual in/dual out mufflers that have the X-pipe feature built into them. If running a true dual system, dual 3" would be appropriate and a minimum for 650HP. A single (not counting if you split it) 3.5" may be choking it a little at higher RPM.




Yes i was thinking true dual all the way back. Complete new exhaust system. I read that long tube headers are the way for max hp gain. Also seen some type of crossover tubes that will eliminate check engine light.?.? Maybe a better option than a x or + pipe? 50/50 split the pipes into 4 then mixed one from each side to make back the true dual in what looks like 3 feet of pipe rather than 12” for better flow. Now it just seems to buy the headers, mufflers, and crossover and take it to a muffler shop.
 

iamdub

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Yes i was thinking true dual all the way back. Complete new exhaust system. I read that long tube headers are the way for max hp gain. Also seen some type of crossover tubes that will eliminate check engine light.?.? Maybe a better option than a x or + pipe? 50/50 split the pipes into 4 then mixed one from each side to make back the true dual in what looks like 3 feet of pipe rather than 12” for better flow. Now it just seems to buy the headers, mufflers, and crossover and take it to a muffler shop.

Crossover tubes? What check engine light- from running true duals? The X or H pipe is more for balancing the sound so it doesn't sound as rough. Well, the H pipe is. The X pipe is for sound and flow, although the H pipe doesn't really negatively affect flow.

I'm kinda confused about the 50/50 split into 4 thing. It sounds like you mean to arrange them for scavenging. A good set of tuned headers has this already done in a package about 3' long so the rest is a simple pipe or two ran to the back, depending on if you have a Y-pipe or crossover pipe. On a NA motor, calculating the exhaust to this degree is beneficial to extract every last minuscule amount of power. On a boosted motor, it's unnecessary and the extra weight of all this extra piping would negate any potential gains. Never mind the mess underneath to work around. AND you have the transfer case and forward propshaft to circumvent. Focus your attention and funds on the supercharger and legitimate supporting mods.

Quality long tube headers with Y- or crossover pipe going into dual 3" pipes tightly side-by-side as far as you wanna take 'em with a free-flow muffler or two somewhere in there. Keep the O2 sensors ahead of the cats (if you keep the cats) since they're necessary. The ones you currently have after the cats will still be used after the new cats with the new headers or delete them in the tune if you delete the cats.
 
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2010yukondenali

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Crossover tubes? What check engine light- from running true duals? The X or H pipe is more for balancing the sound so it doesn't sound as rough. Well, the H pipe is. The X pipe is for sound and flow, although the H pipe doesn't really negatively affect flow.

I'm kinda confused about the 50/50 split into 4 thing. It sounds like you mean to arrange them for scavenging. A good set of tuned headers has this already done in a package about 3' long so the rest is a simple pipe or two ran to the back, depending on if you have a Y-pipe or crossover pipe. On a NA motor, calculating the exhaust to this degree is beneficial to extract every last minuscule amount of power. On a boosted motor, it's unnecessary and the extra weight of all this extra piping would negate any potential gains. Never mind the mess underneath to work around. AND you have the transfer case and forward propshaft to circumvent. Focus your attention and funds on the supercharger and legitimate supporting mods.

Quality long tube headers with Y- or crossover pipe going into dual 3" pipes tightly side-by-side as far as you wanna take 'em with a free-flow muffler or two somewhere in there. Keep the O2 sensors ahead of the cats (if you keep the cats) since they're necessary. The ones you currently have after the cats will still be used after the new cats with the new headers or delete them in the tune if you delete the cats.


Thanks dude I appreciate it very much. I have a bad tendency of overthinking things.
 

tgui

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On my 08 Denali, I did kooks catted headers, hacked in a magnaflow muffler and kept the resonator. Comfortable cruising, screams like a racecar full throttle.

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I did some heat shielding as my floors were getting warm with the changed cat position.

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Lsnoob13

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the factory exhaust on your truck is already 3 1/2", changing it out for another 3 1/2 is kind of a waste, add a cai and a better muffler she'll breath just fine, if you really want stainless both corsa and borla sell a bolt on system and a few others just keep in mind your local muffler shop can do the same for 1/2 the price. I thought about doing it to mine but the dam thing is 3 1/2" already so I just deleted the last resonator and put a borla straight thru muffler and saved a bunch of money. Kind of like Geico
Yukon denali really has 3.5 exhaust? I had mine trashed so i cant go back and check. Im doing 3 in collectors to 3 in y pipe and was thinking 3 in all the way back after the y pipe would making it smaller than factory hinder the engine? Better yet i have done alot of "upgrades" would the decrease in size hinder my engine, maybe not a stock engine but i have lots of changes...thing is pretty much built now. Should i size back up to 3.5 after the header?
 

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I just did my 14 Denali with a Supercharger and Kooks 1 7/8 headers, green cats,
Y pipe.. I figured I'd get it all hooked up and dialed in, then do some sort of
exhaust from the kooks back.. But really I knew I wouldn't gain much HP
from an aftermarket exhaust, but I figured I'd def want more sound.
Well, I am going to do Nothing... The stock exhaust is quit a bit louder
than it used to be with stock manifolds/Y/ Cats
And I still have the weird little resonator at the very rear. I'm pretty happy
with the sound right now. I really didn't think it would change, but it did !!
 

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