2008 Yukon Electrical Problems

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penafam

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same issues....2008 Yukon XL

Same issues many of you have written about. Locks, a/c, stereo pop, dead battery (then new life after a few minutes), etc....

New alternator (twice), new battery. About to visit my local dealer for some advice but after reading what you all have to say I don't know that it would make a difference.

Thought it was fixed once, then twice, and here we are again.

Any updates from anyone??

thanks in advance
 

Scottmeadows1

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Yes. I fought this for over 6 months. My dealer and I did a tremendous amount of troubleshooting. Although they can't always prove the main ground cable to be bad it definitely is the problem. They will meter it and attempt to decide if they think it needs changing but I can tell you mine was within the GM spec by a small margin but it caused these very same problems. They replaced mine and I've not had a single issue in over 4 months. It's the large main ground cable between the battery and the engine block. Cleaning the connections will not fix it.
 

penafam

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same issues...

Thanks for the reply scott. I'm at a crossroads with this vehicle. I trust my local dealer, he's been around for a long time and tells me he's seen this before. He showed me the #PIT4816E 'report' about how to handle the issue. He says he spoke with a GM engineer a couple of years ago. It says to check the mega fuse and then battery cables with a drop voltage test. He thinks it's the negative cable but says replacing all three is the way to go. The bulletin or report he showed me says nothing about the main ground cable. I will bring this up when I speak with him. My previous fix was not with my dealer so I'm tempted to let my dealer try to fix it. It's my last resort before getting rid of the car.
 
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Scottmeadows1

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I feel strongly about the fix. I fought this battle weekly, sometimes daily for many months. The cable solved my problem immediately. Not even the slightest blip since that day. I wish you the best.
 

08grey

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I have seen other threads that the main ground cable fixed allot of intermittent issues.
 

GBRacing

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Add my 2007 Tahoe LTZ to this list. This is my first GM product. I've had it for a little over 2 years now and it's been nothing but headaches. However, until now, none of the problems would have left you stranded like this has. Not good!

I'll try the battery ground cable replacement and see.
 

Kizmo

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sonlight,

I would like to have another team look into this for you. Could you please send me your full contact information including your VIN and mileage?

Thank you

Elizabeth, GM Customer Service

GM, Were you able to fix Sonlight's problem? Same thing is happening to me. While driving everything electrical turns off and the door locks go crazy.
 

bboyce10

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KIZMO: Its the main ground cable from the battery to the block that is inherently too small for the electrical load. It may test out as within "spec", but its just too small. Get a larger battery cable and put new/larger connectors on both ends, and your problem is solved. Its been over a year for mine and no more electrical problems of any kind. Don't wait for GM, it will just be unsafe in the meantime. Also check your alternator output, needs to be 14+ volts in order to run all the electronics. Good luck.
 
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Kizmo

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KIZMO: Its the main ground cable from the battery to the block that is inherently too small for the electrical load. It may test out as within "spec", but its just too small. Get a larger battery cable and put new/larger connectors on both ends, and your problem is solved. Its been over a year for mine and no more electrical problems of any kind. Don't wait for GM, it will just be unsafe in the meantime. Also check your alternator output, needs to be 14+ volts in order to run all the electronics. Good luck.

boyce,
Thank you for the reply. I'll do that. As far as testing the alternator output voltage, where should I tap into that? Is there a good test point somewhere under the hood? Anything else I need to do activate it? Otherwise, the battery meter in the dash shows about 14 at times while I'm driving.
 

okfoz

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How hard is it to change out the cable? Sounds like an easy fix, 2 bolts and be done (one on the battery, one on the block). But for most things it is a bit more involved.

Are there any videos or is it just straight forward (I have not even looked at it, but I like to be prepared.)
 

bboyce10

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KIZMO: If your dashboard gauge reads 14, you are probably OK. There may be better ways, but I always test by starting the engine, and then pulling off the positive battery cable. The engine should remain running. Then insert your multi-meter (set for DC volts) between that positive cable (you just removed from the battery) and ground.

---------- Post added at 11:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:03 AM ----------

OKFOZ: Once you look at it you will see its easy to change the cable. There may be some video's out there but I have not looked for them. The most complicated part will be crimping a terminal/connector on the ends. You may be able to find prefab cable to fit, but I went with the heaviest cable I could find and therefore had to put my own connectors on. You will need a crimping tool (sometimes AutoZone or other auto parts stores will let you borrow for one-time use). Good luck!
 

the z

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yukon electrical issues

i have been having the same problems as a lot of y'all have been describing, radio cutting off and on, locks going crazy, alternator voltage gauge going crazy and then engine not starting after being shut off and i finally was able to solve my problem. Every time this issue came up its was after a rain or during a rain and one day my wife came home and said she heard water in the passenger door and was having issues at the same time. apparently the water wasn't draining and was causing issues with the electrical in the door, no issues ever happened when it was a sunny day. This may or may not help y'all out but its worth a try to check it out.
 

nmshep33

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Well, you guys were right. After all the money and time spent last fall, the problems started happening again. I printed out all your comments and gave to my husband. The battery cable was the issue (it even looked damaged which I can't believe no one else saw this). He went and got the biggest one he could and replaced it in no time. Not one problem since.
 

GBRacing

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Update - Replaced the negative battery cable and the problem has gone away. Let's hope it stays that way for a while.
 

revs2ninegrand

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Having some electrical issues with my '07. Started with the radio cutting in and out... Purchased new amp hoping to fix the issue, now only one speaker works, and I've lost the chime from the turn signals, and it still cuts out. Then, it sometimes won't start right away, I'll have to crank it twice, wipers have to be used manually. It does have a new battery and is at the dealership now. Last week I was trying to roll up all 4 windows at once and the it seemed like the power went out for a split second and the AC controls reset to 74 and the gauges temporarily went nuts for a second. I've only had this vehicle for about 2 months and I'm very disappointed in it. Thank GOD I purchased the aftermarket warranty, although I had a problem the first week I had it and was told it must have been a pre-exsisting condition.

I really want to like this vehicle but so far no luck.
 

almenyawe

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Need help please :(

I have 2007 yukon denali radio 15923583 ,radio has no power after battery disconnect for 20 days . All fuses are good the clock doesn't work either the screen is blank .

What could went wrong :(
 

YukonAZ

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Hi all, I purchased a used 2011 Yukon in October and I just started expreriencing these electrical problems, my wife has told me the stereo/Nav turns off and resets sometimes but I had never personally experienced it until yesterday. I went out to get the truck started and heat turned on and When I turned the key on I had nothing, so I popped the hood and looked at battery and terminals, both were clean and tight so I hit unlock on the key fob and it started like normal! So then on the way home my wife was driving and has the cruise control set and when she turned on the high beams it kicked the cruise control off and reset the stereo, she did this 3-4 times with the same outcome every time. I'm calling the GMC dealer we bought from today, any other suggestions?
 

Speck

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Hi all, I purchased a used 2011 Yukon in October and I just started expreriencing these electrical problems, my wife has told me the stereo/Nav turns off and resets sometimes but I had never personally experienced it until yesterday. I went out to get the truck started and heat turned on and When I turned the key on I had nothing, so I popped the hood and looked at battery and terminals, both were clean and tight so I hit unlock on the key fob and it started like normal! So then on the way home my wife was driving and has the cruise control set and when she turned on the high beams it kicked the cruise control off and reset the stereo, she did this 3-4 times with the same outcome every time. I'm calling the GMC dealer we bought from today, any other suggestions?


Have the dealership or your shop of choice check the fuse distribution block on the firewall. I was having the same issues with my 2008 Yukon and found out that the fuse was grounding out instead of "popping" like it should. My dealership pulled it apart, cleaned all of the contacts to make there there was no chance of corrosion on the posts and then replaced the fuse. I have not had an issue since, and that was over a year ago. Thankfully my service tech had the same issue with her Silverado and recognized the symptoms and solution. Cost me about $20... I hope that works for you.

Joe
 

Ethna

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I have a 2008 Yukon(Denali) and it keeps losing power. The dealership has no clue and I am losing patient and money. Does anyone have a clue as to why this could be happening? I read most of the post here but I hear talk about a BCM but I was told it was fine. Please help!
 

twashi43

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I have a 2008 Yukon(Denali) and it keeps losing power. The dealership has no clue and I am losing patient and money. Does anyone have a clue as to why this could be happening? I read most of the post here but I hear talk about a BCM but I was told it was fine. Please help!
When you say its losing power what exactly is losing power?(Engine,gauges, ect.)
 

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