2008 Yukon Electrical Problems

[Goodinblack]

put new gm cables on 7-5 along with new red top that amazo? warrantied and so far so good, but at times the old setup did good too...just for safety I put the other good battery in the spare tray and hooked the - to block. I'm still pondering on how I want to run the +( thru solenoid or to starter lug)

So you change the bus center fuse block cable too?

 

[harveje]

if your talking about the one that runs from the mega fuse to the fuse box No. I'm looking for a part # for it and if it's not to salty I'll replace it to.

 

[Goodinblack]

if your talking about the one that runs from the mega fuse to the fuse box No. I'm looking for a part # for it and if it's not to salty I'll replace it to.

Thank you for the update

 

[Goodinblack]

So on my 2011 Yukon XL

Today the doors strated to lock and unlock by themselves like it was possessed while driving.

Later, while parked, I could see the gauges "twitching", and there was no dome light.

---------- Post added at 07:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:32 PM ----------

if your talking about the one that runs from the mega fuse to the fuse box No. I'm looking for a part # for it and if it's not to salty I'll replace it to.

You have the part numbers for the cables you replaced?

 

[Goodinblack]

Just ordered Negative and Positive Battery cables the Yukon

 

[Cderr14]

So on my 2011 Yukon XL

Today the doors strated to lock and unlock by themselves like it was possessed while driving.

Later, while parked, I could see the gauges "twitching", and there was no dome light.

---------- Post added at 07:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:32 PM ----------



You have the part numbers for the cables you replaced?

I had similar issues on my 2009 slt. Turned out to be the body control modular.

 

[nmshep33]

Same issues as the rest of you

I'm having the same issues as the rest of you: doors locking and unlocking, car shutting down, radio powers off, car powers off, can be caused by putting windows up at same time, did it before when I would put the blinker on. After it "shuts off", the controls come on for the heat and both sides are on and set at 74 degrees (even if I didn't even have the heat on). One side of the car blows hot and the other cold. I also had a previous issue with the Bluetooth not working right, always having to reset it. It never seems to be the same thing. It's been happening on and off for 3 months now.

It's been to 2 different dealers. This past time, they replaced an actuator for the heat issue. They also checked all grounds for wiring, checked and greased the engine control module connector, and cleaned throttle plate. I got back in my car to take it home and after I turned it on, I turned it off to check it and the radio shut completely down (it's supposed to stay on until you open doors). I called GMC and got a reference case number. This thread has been viewed over 21,000 times so I assume there is a reoccurring issue here. Love my Yukon up until this. Some say it's the body control module, but I haven't see that as a definite. Anyone have a definite answer to this?

 

[okfoz]

I had a PRNDL switch go out on a transmission once that would cause the door locks, the gear shifter indicator, lights, to go crazy. I swore the car was possessed... Turned out that moisture had gotten inside the switch, and a little corrosion mixed with moisture caused it to flip out.

IIRC the gages would go to zero, come back up like I turned off the car and everything... it was so darned strange... the locks would lock, unlock, lock, lock, unlock, unlock....

The biggest problem new cars have is how everything is tied to everything else. You get one bad component that is completely unrelated and it will not run or completely flip out. Did you know that the Ford GT that was made a few years back would not start or run without the instrument cluster?

I miss the old days to where if you remove the radio the lights would still come on,

 

[nmshep33]

Figured my issue out

I think we finally found the problem. The alternator output was low when under heavy load, which is why things would start to fail when more accessories where activated (blinker, wipers, windows, accelerating, etc). They replaced the alternator and the battery and everything seems to be working thus far!

 

[okfoz]

Good to hear, glad it was figured out...

I know on my 05 Buick Rainier, I can tell when the battery is going out, the DIC will refuse to come on... Change the battery and it is good to go. So it makes sense that if the Alt & Battery are weak that it will throw everything into a tizzy.

 

[bboyce10]

I had this same issue with my 2009 Tahoe. After changing out the battery, the fuse, the fuse connection box, alternator, etc.....and having the problem go away for a while only to come back at some point later. I finally started testing on my own. I believe the ground cable from the batter is inherently too small for the electrical load. I went to a local auto parts store, but the biggest battery cable they had, put new larger connectors on both ends, and problem solved. Its been 6 months now, and no more electrical problems of any kind. To nmshep33: It could be your alternator was bad, and they need to output 14+ volts in order to run the computer and all other electronics, so I hope you solved the problem.....but I doubt it. Good luck.

 

[Speck]

I have a 2008 Yukon Denali, and I too have been having several of the same issues. Mine started last summer when I had my transmission go bad (another long and angering story) at only 77k miles. It started with the popping speakers and then would kill all power when turning the truck off. It would sit powerless anywhere from 5 minutes to 2 hours. I thought it might be a bad ground or battery and replaced the battery and also added an additionl ground from the negative post to the chassis. That seemed to have resolved the issue up until about two weeks ago...

Now, my issues seem to have compounded and I'm not sure it is just a "ground issue." Like so many others on here, it again started with my speakers popping and the radio going black screened. Then I noticed that I lost all connection with my Sirius/XM radio and could not get a signal. When I turn the ignition off it again loses all power. The difference this time is now it is affecting the way the engine is running, it feels very down on power and runs very rough, the lights start to flicker while both driving and sitting at idle. The radio continues to cut in and out, and the truck actually stalled out on my while driving and I lost all power for lights ignition and everything. Thankfully I was on an empty road at night and had street lighting. I was able to open the hood and the only way to get the truck to reset was my tugging on the terminals. It is now occuring almost once per day and my headlights now cut out at random and my windshield wipers no longer sense rain or even work on a timer. I have to manually turn them on and off to get them to swipe unless I want them on full constant swipe.

At this point, I'm so frustrated with the vehicle that I just want to walk away from the darn thing. Since buying this truck 3 years ago, I have had nothing but problems with this piece of junk. The engine has had to be rebuilt (after only having it for 10k miles), both differential seals replaced, ecu, transmission replaced at 77k miles, and steering wheel replaced. I still have issues with the driver seat "moving" around and needing a new mount per the dealership. I do not drive this truck hard and always make sure to stay up on maintenance. This whole thing is very, very frustrating. I am almost starting to think that any GM newer than 1990 isn't worth having... Time for me to stick with my 72 C10 and 71 Chevelle...

Joe

 

[nmshep33]

Thanks bboyce

Thanks bboyce10. I'll keep that info handy in case it starts acting up again.

 

[dferguson]

I'm new to this forum so I'm hoping for some good advice. I've been having electrical problems with my 2011 Yukon but they sound a bit different than some of the other posts. It started two years ago when at 40k miles some type of electrical issues caused the Anti-theft fuse to blow thus disabling the car from being started again. Although my wife was driving it at the time, she was able to get it off the road before losing power. The dealer tore the dashboard apart but couldn't find the issue. The second time this occurred was a few weeks ago and now at 74k miles. This time it was much worse since it died while my wife was driving it on a busy street. She lost ability to steer and I'm thankful she was only going 35mph instead of 70 on the interstate and was somehow able to get off the road without crashing. Its been at the dealership for 3 weeks now and they can't figure it out. They think it is an electrical short but can't find it. And they won't honor the extended warranty to replace anything since they don't know the "real cause". Despite not knowing the exact cause, they are now telling me they should replace the battery and ignition switch (at my cost of course) and that they should add temporary bypass circuits with fuses for all of the circuits that feed the anti-theft fuse. They indicated this was the only way to identify what is causing the electrical short. Of course, this also means us having to continue to drive a car in hopes this significant safety issue happens again so they can identify the problem?!?! Yikes! What type of idea is this?!?! Oh, and dont bother calling GM Customer Service. They only send you back to the dealer. Hoping someone has some ideas for me. In the meantime, I'm authoring a letter to the GM CEO and their liability insurance carrier.

 

[08grey]

Paging Jennifer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Scottmeadows1]

2010 Tahoe Electrical problem

I can't believe these post I'm reading. I have a 2010 chevy Tahoe with 48K miles that has these very same symptoms!! I purchased the truck used from a dealer in June 2014. I've been fighting this problem for 7 months. I'm afraid someone will get injured or killed.

The Tahoe has an intermittent electrical problem that is very dangerous. At random while driving down the road the radio will make a pop or snap sound then black out. The gauge cluster will go nuts. The door locks - lock and unlock, lock and unlock repeatedly all while the head lights blink and or go out completely. The engine dies down to no power then it may resume only to lose power again. There's no power steering, no power brakes. It comes and goes. Often if the truck dies completely it will not start back. It sits dead. If you wait a minute or two or up to several hours it will wake up on its own. The AC resets to a default setting. I've had it at my local chevy dealer at least 6 times. They are trying to help but have not been able to reproduce the problem. Just 2 weeks ago it died for 12+ hours so I had it towed to the dealer. When the tech began to troubleshoot it woke up.

They decided to replace the ground cable (that I had to pay for) even though it checked good and was within the allowable specification range noted by Chevy.

The only problem is that my wife and I are back on the road with a vehicle that may die in traffic any minute. No power, no brakes, no power steering, no lights... No nothing!! Huge risk!!

These vehicles have a problem and the owners need help.

I have service ticket in with Chevy but it has turned out to be useless as they just send me back to the dealership who can't find the problem. The girl / agent tells me every time she'll keep me posted on the progress although she never calls me back. I have to call her every time.... So frustrating!!!

Scott

 

[nmshep33]

I can't believe these post I'm reading. I have a 2010 chevy Tahoe with 48K miles that has these very same symptoms!! I purchased the truck used from a dealer in June 2014. I've been fighting this problem for 7 months. I'm afraid someone will get injured or killed.

The Tahoe has an intermittent electrical problem that is very dangerous. At random while driving down the road the radio will make a pop or snap sound then black out. The gauge cluster will go nuts. The door locks - lock and unlock, lock and unlock repeatedly all while the head lights blink and or go out completely. The engine dies down to no power then it may resume only to lose power again. There's no power steering, no power brakes. It comes and goes. Often if the truck dies completely it will not start back. It sits dead. If you wait a minute or two or up to several hours it will wake up on its own. The AC resets to a default setting. I've had it at my local chevy dealer at least 6 times. They are trying to help but have not been able to reproduce the problem. Just 2 weeks ago it died for 12+ hours so I had it towed to the dealer. When the tech began to troubleshoot it woke up.

They decided to replace the ground cable (that I had to pay for) even though it checked good and was within the allowable specification range noted by Chevy.

The only problem is that my wife and I are back on the road with a vehicle that may die in traffic any minute. No power, no brakes, no power steering, no lights... No nothing!! Huge risk!!

These vehicles have a problem and the owners need help.

I have service ticket in with Chevy but it has turned out to be useless as they just send me back to the dealership who can't find the problem. The girl / agent tells me every time she'll keep me posted on the progress although she never calls me back. I have to call her every time.... So frustrating!!!

Scott

Hi Scott - Read my post on what the dealer did to fix my truck. It hasn't had the problem since, so hoping this actually was the problem. Good luck!

 

[Scottmeadows1]

So you think it was the alternator? Technically that makes sense I guess but I've had a volt meter connected to the + lead for weeks with no signs of low voltage. (Even during the occurance of doors locking and unlocking the battery voltage maintained constant). My dealer replaced the main ground cable a couple of weeks ago. I'm still monitoring as it has went 3 weeks once before with no issue, only to act up again in week number 4.

I'll keep the alternator in mind. Thank You.

 

[twashi43]

I too experienced this electrical problem. I guess I will be looking into an alternator and 0 gauge grounds to both batteries.

 

[Scottmeadows1]

Battery Ground Cable

Not sure if this actually got it but my local dealer and I split the cost of a new main ground cable. I'm going on 6 weeks with no sign of the issue. We'll see.