2008 Yukon Denali, 135k miles, part 2!!
- Thread starter tgui
- Start date
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I made two with a solobaric 12 and it shook the back bad. It's hard to sit next to that thing when it's playing. I still have both I'll give the boxes away if anyone wants in NY. No speaker of course.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Are you saying my setup will be too much Bass? I've actually never had anything more than a tiny 10 inch.
about20ninj45
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Speakers Or no deal lol lmao jk
I got the sub in. Kicker solo baric s12l7 with 700watt rms amp. Gotta clean up the wiring now.
It's not broken in yet but first take is holy shit. I've never had this much sub. I'm getting old and can't imagine why someone would do anything more!
It's not broken in yet but first take is holy shit. I've never had this much sub. I'm getting old and can't imagine why someone would do anything more!
about20ninj45
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Looks goodAmp install cleaned up. Man, this cover was thick.
All closed up.
KATfishing
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After discovering some rust bubbles and the very bottom of 3 of my 4 doors on my 08 Denali, I pulled the rubber seals and then saw the rusty seams in same location behind the seals. I sprayed liberally with Fluid Film (it sizzles on contact) over the rust and also with the straw in all the holes for attaching the seals. Curious if anyone has had success with slowing down or stopping door rust using Fluid Film when the rust has started this way.
#1taho
5150TAHO
I use that stuff every year and so far so good on the taho for the last 5 years.
KATfishing
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Just curious, did you have any rust forming, such as at the door seams or paint starting to blister on the bottom of the outside of the doors? If so, did the FluidFilm stop/slow it down once sprayed?
I did a SLP resonator delete. I need to clean up the cuts since my hack saw had a hard time with the stock 3.5'' pipe.
Im not sold on the looks. I might remove the tip and install something more hidden. The resonator is gone, thats all that matters.
It does make the sound louder. The inside isn't louder when driving normally. Getting on it and cold starts are louder for sure.
Side:
Rear:
Ohhh and then there are these I have to put on. Long tube headers.
Im not sold on the looks. I might remove the tip and install something more hidden. The resonator is gone, thats all that matters.
It does make the sound louder. The inside isn't louder when driving normally. Getting on it and cold starts are louder for sure.
Side:
Rear:
Ohhh and then there are these I have to put on. Long tube headers.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Sounds good and looks fine. Give it a few days and it'll probably grow on you.
Smokymance
Boosted
What headers are those?
SHe sounds good!
SHe sounds good!
Thanks!
Those headers: Speed Engineering Truck SUV 1 7/8" Longtube Headers & Y-Pipe
I'm working on the headers install. Its a pain in the ass. Not nearly as bad as building a trans ans swapping it in. Still, it sucks.
So far out
- Cover & intake
- Wheels and fender liners
- Spark plugs and wires
- O2 Sensors
- Oil dipstick tube
- Manifolds
- Ypipe
My previous NBS Yukon Ypipe came out with little problems. It sucked to remove the trans cross member but what ever. THIS ypipe was totally seized. I got 2 out of the 6 bolts out. I used heat, penetrating fluid, time and still broke sockets and other shit. I rounded one of the nuts too. FFS!!!. ARG!!!
I used to scoff at people cutting the ypipe out, now here I am! At least I dont have to drop the trans cross member.
I had a broken manifold bolt on each side close to the firewall. I am not sure what to do yet.
Drivers side. I can get a nut on and weld in place I think.
Passengers side is broken flush to the head. Any ideas y'all?
So far out
- Cover & intake
- Wheels and fender liners
- Spark plugs and wires
- O2 Sensors
- Oil dipstick tube
- Manifolds
- Ypipe
My previous NBS Yukon Ypipe came out with little problems. It sucked to remove the trans cross member but what ever. THIS ypipe was totally seized. I got 2 out of the 6 bolts out. I used heat, penetrating fluid, time and still broke sockets and other shit. I rounded one of the nuts too. FFS!!!. ARG!!!
I used to scoff at people cutting the ypipe out, now here I am! At least I dont have to drop the trans cross member.
I had a broken manifold bolt on each side close to the firewall. I am not sure what to do yet.
Drivers side. I can get a nut on and weld in place I think.
Passengers side is broken flush to the head. Any ideas y'all?
swathdiver
Full Access Member
You'll probably need heat to break them loose and an easy out for the latter and a nut for the former. PITA.
Other than disconnecting the negative battery terminal, anything else needed to weld? Where on the block do I ground the welder? I don't want to fry any electronics.
Worst case scenario I forgot I picked these up. They're passenger and driver manifold clamps for the bolts that break nearest to the firewall. Ugly, but might be useful as a last resort.
Welded a nut on the stud...
Then.... it turns out the stud was rusted part of the way through and snapped.
****.
Built a stack on the now flush on head broken stud.... and it didn't work. I'll keep at it.
More come friday. I'm glad I have the backup options posted earlier.
I SUCK at welding but am persistent.
Then.... it turns out the stud was rusted part of the way through and snapped.
****.
Built a stack on the now flush on head broken stud.... and it didn't work. I'll keep at it.
More come friday. I'm glad I have the backup options posted earlier.
I SUCK at welding but am persistent.
