2007 Tahoe Timing Chain Replacement

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Geotrash

Dave
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Update - well saying the removal of the cam sensor was a PIA is putting it mildly! I drilled a larger hole, screwed a masonry lag bolt into and filled with JB epoxy let set up for 48 hours. Then tried to extract it, used a large pry bar and block of 2x4 as a base for the pry bar. The pressure I was able to put on it with that process did not make any difference, that son of gun will not come out.

I am not down to removing the timing cover to get it out. With the that in mind, what is the best way to hold the HB to remove the bolt? I was going to use a large pair of vise-grips slipped through the opening in the back and up against the AC bracket and use my air impact driver to remove the bolt.
Bummer. I used the below air impact wrench with the proper impact socket and a cheap Harbor Freight air compressor. Came off like it was buttah. No flywheel tool or strap wrench needed.

 
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Plimbob

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Dave, I have a 1/2 air impact as well, I'll give that a try.

i assume you used an impact socket, 15/16?

Thanks much for the insight!

Tim
 

Geotrash

Dave
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Dave, I have a 1/2 air impact as well, I'll give that a try.

i assume you used an impact socket, 15/16?

Thanks much for the insight!

Tim
Yes, it was an impact grade socket though I don’t remember the exact size offhand.
 
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Plimbob

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Update #2
Got the crank bolt out with out too much issue using my air impact. However, any thoughts on removal of the balancer as it seems it is welded on, this old girl has 306k and the balancer has never been off.

I am using a OEM 3 jaw puller with the longest extension rod. It is going nowhere and it started bending the extension rod. I am thinking I need to heat it up more than likely. Although, I was wondering if any of you all have used a different method with the puller, like a large socket, etc.

Any suggestions are appreciated!

Thanks,
Tim
 
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Geotrash

Dave
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Update #2
Got the crank bolt out with out too much issue using my air impact. However, any thoughts on removal of the balancer as it seems it is welded on, this old girl has 306k and the balancer has never been off.

I am using a OEM 3 jaw puller with the longest extension rod. It is going nowhere and it started bending the extension rod. I am thinking I need to heat it up more than likely. Although, I was wondering if any of you all have used a different method with the puller, like a large socket, etc.

Any suggestions are appreciated!

Thanks,
Tim
This is the one you need. Autozone sells it also. If this is the one you're already using, then I'm stumped. It worked great for me.

 
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Plimbob

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Dave, thanks for the reply.

That is what I am using, ordered it from Amazon. When I started tightening it it bent the insert rod. I have since heated it and let it cool and reheated and tried several times and no go. I think I'll start a new post, I would think other on here have had one stuck that they have wrestled with!

I really appreciate your help! Hope you and yours have a great 4th!
 

donjetman

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Heat the balancer hub, tighten the puller down, bang on the hub with a dead blow type hammer, retighten puller, repeat. Maybe that will set it free?
 

Rocket Man

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Follow this guys advice on removing the balancer, it’s super easy this way. Most auto parts stores rent the puller for free.
 
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Plimbob

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I now have the balancer and timing cover off I am going to replace the oil pump, tensioner, both spockets and chain. Mine is 4WD, so I am planning on dropping the pan enough to set on the cross member to see if I can get to the pick-up tube o-ring without dropping completely - well see.

This all started with trying to replace the !@#$ cam sensor, that little SOB would not come out for nothing so that is why I am at the stage I am. After inspecting the timing cover, I notice that in my efforts to remove I scored the side of the hole the cam sensor sits in, I am now wondering if I need to but a new cover?

Also, noticed there are pieces of plastic lodged in behind the crankshaft gear and a small piece was loose and laying on an edge on the block. I assume it is plastic from the tensioner (pix attached)Broken Tensioner Piece.jpgBroken Tensioner 2.jpg
 

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