2007 Tahoe/Rocker Racket - Not AFM! Need Suggestions...

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Kwing

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I swear this truck is determined to take a framing nailer to my coffin!

2007 Tahoe 5.3L FFV, 300k on the clock.

TL;DR: I have what sounds like valve noise indicative of collapsed lifters, it's not related to the AFM (wrong cylinder(s)), and I'm trying to figure out the shortest path to fix it.

History: I learned the dreaded AFM lesson at 200k, when the cyl 6 lifter(s) collapsed, followed shortly by cyl 4, then 7. Evaluating cost, effort, and mileage, I opted for a new long block instead of a valvetrain rebuild. I put the original ignition coils and injectors on the new engine (I actually bought new coils as a PM, but when the budget route through Amazon, and within 3 weeks 4 of the Amazon coils had failed, so I just put the originals back in). I then disabled the AFM with one of the dongles.

At ~250k, the plastic side cap on my radiator decided to crack under pressure, instantly emptying the cooling system and ******* the temperature at full by the time I figured out what was going on and got parked. When the radiator blew, unbeknownst to me, the water pump popped too. Unable to find the pump leak, mostly because I'm dumb, I just kept topping off the coolant to keep her going. That resulted in a few overheating sessions when I forgot to keep up on it, but never above 3/4. When the screen on the oil pressure sensor clogged up around 1500 miles later, I discovered that somewhere in there, probably the one when the cap blew, it got hot enough to char the oil. Cue 4 oil changes with Gunk flushes, 3 oil pressure senders, and finally removing the oil pressure filter screen all together, because no matter what I did there was still a "fine" particulate of carbon floating through the system. That course of action prompted the purchase of an HP Tuner to officially disable the AFM for good.

Fast-forward to 290k, and the occasional bumble of a misfire I had been feeling for a while escalated to cylinders 6 and 8 pretty much dropping out completely, with 3 and 5 doing their best to follow suit. Through process of elimination, I landed on the OEM injectors finally giving out. Once again, I learned the budget Amazon the hard way, when the $100 set of injectors immediately sent the engine into a rich condition that could not be "tuned" out.

So a couple weeks ago, I yanked the intake, put in a $700 set of NAPA injectors, fully resealed the intake manifold, and restored the program from before I tried to remap the injectors. It wouldn't start when I was done. I learned another Amazon lesson at that point, when I discovered the $60 throttle body I had put on 20k back (while tracking down an air leak in search of relieving the misfire) was jamming every time the blade closed. I cleaned up the old OEM throttle body and threw some Super Lube on the gears, and it fired right up... at which point it was making the most gawd awful banging noise I've ever heard from an engine. It wasn't rhythmic to the engine speed, but rather kind of sporadic and sloppy.

It was so bad I pulled the intake back off, thinking I dropped something down one of the ports. Turns out, near as I can tell, I reversed the injector plugs for 3 and 5. After verifying clean cylinders and valves and putting it back together with the proper pigtails on the proper injectors, it was running great! Until a couple days later when I was greeted with the all-too-familiar feel of a misfire. Just cylinder 5 this time.

I disconnected and reconnected the plug and coil wires, and it smoothed back out. I figured it was either that OEM coil finally going out, or a loose connection, so when the misfire came back 2 days later, I just shrugged it off until I can buy more parts.

Then, last night, I pulled up to a stop light and heard the distinct sound of tappet noise. Clickita clickita clicita, with frequency perfectly matched to the revs. It has not gone away. Cylinder 5 is in a constant state of miss (indicating it's the major culprit), but cyl 6 is gaining ground with about 1/2 the rate of misfires to 5 as of this morning.

This reeks of lifter collapse, but on cyl 5, it ain't the AFM, which makes sense given that it's disabled.

I soooooo want to avoid pulling the heads and doing a top-end rebuild. So my questions are:

1. Can the lifters be replaced without pulling the heads?
2. Is there any way to free the lifters without replacing or pulling the heads?
3. Is there anything other than collapsed lifter(s) that could be the culprit here?

Any help is greatly appreciated, as usual.

Thank you!
 

blanchard7684

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Yes the needle bearings in roller tip fail leading to symptoms similar to collapse… and it will wipe out a cam lobe to boot.

I haven’t seen a hack yet on getting lifters out without removing head.
 

KMeloney

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I swear this truck is determined to take a framing nailer to my coffin!

2007 Tahoe 5.3L FFV, 300k on the clock.

TL;DR: I have what sounds like valve noise indicative of collapsed lifters, it's not related to the AFM (wrong cylinder(s)), and I'm trying to figure out the shortest path to fix it.

History: I learned the dreaded AFM lesson at 200k, when the cyl 6 lifter(s) collapsed, followed shortly by cyl 4, then 7. Evaluating cost, effort, and mileage, I opted for a new long block instead of a valvetrain rebuild. I put the original ignition coils and injectors on the new engine (I actually bought new coils as a PM, but when the budget route through Amazon, and within 3 weeks 4 of the Amazon coils had failed, so I just put the originals back in). I then disabled the AFM with one of the dongles.

At ~250k, the plastic side cap on my radiator decided to crack under pressure, instantly emptying the cooling system and ******* the temperature at full by the time I figured out what was going on and got parked. When the radiator blew, unbeknownst to me, the water pump popped too. Unable to find the pump leak, mostly because I'm dumb, I just kept topping off the coolant to keep her going. That resulted in a few overheating sessions when I forgot to keep up on it, but never above 3/4. When the screen on the oil pressure sensor clogged up around 1500 miles later, I discovered that somewhere in there, probably the one when the cap blew, it got hot enough to char the oil. Cue 4 oil changes with Gunk flushes, 3 oil pressure senders, and finally removing the oil pressure filter screen all together, because no matter what I did there was still a "fine" particulate of carbon floating through the system. That course of action prompted the purchase of an HP Tuner to officially disable the AFM for good.

Fast-forward to 290k, and the occasional bumble of a misfire I had been feeling for a while escalated to cylinders 6 and 8 pretty much dropping out completely, with 3 and 5 doing their best to follow suit. Through process of elimination, I landed on the OEM injectors finally giving out. Once again, I learned the budget Amazon the hard way, when the $100 set of injectors immediately sent the engine into a rich condition that could not be "tuned" out.

So a couple weeks ago, I yanked the intake, put in a $700 set of NAPA injectors, fully resealed the intake manifold, and restored the program from before I tried to remap the injectors. It wouldn't start when I was done. I learned another Amazon lesson at that point, when I discovered the $60 throttle body I had put on 20k back (while tracking down an air leak in search of relieving the misfire) was jamming every time the blade closed. I cleaned up the old OEM throttle body and threw some Super Lube on the gears, and it fired right up... at which point it was making the most gawd awful banging noise I've ever heard from an engine. It wasn't rhythmic to the engine speed, but rather kind of sporadic and sloppy.

It was so bad I pulled the intake back off, thinking I dropped something down one of the ports. Turns out, near as I can tell, I reversed the injector plugs for 3 and 5. After verifying clean cylinders and valves and putting it back together with the proper pigtails on the proper injectors, it was running great! Until a couple days later when I was greeted with the all-too-familiar feel of a misfire. Just cylinder 5 this time.

I disconnected and reconnected the plug and coil wires, and it smoothed back out. I figured it was either that OEM coil finally going out, or a loose connection, so when the misfire came back 2 days later, I just shrugged it off until I can buy more parts.

Then, last night, I pulled up to a stop light and heard the distinct sound of tappet noise. Clickita clickita clicita, with frequency perfectly matched to the revs. It has not gone away. Cylinder 5 is in a constant state of miss (indicating it's the major culprit), but cyl 6 is gaining ground with about 1/2 the rate of misfires to 5 as of this morning.

This reeks of lifter collapse, but on cyl 5, it ain't the AFM, which makes sense given that it's disabled.

I soooooo want to avoid pulling the heads and doing a top-end rebuild. So my questions are:

1. Can the lifters be replaced without pulling the heads?
2. Is there any way to free the lifters without replacing or pulling the heads?
3. Is there anything other than collapsed lifter(s) that could be the culprit here?

Any help is greatly appreciated, as usual.

Thank you!
You've got this in the '21s-and-up section. You'll get better responses if you post this in the section for your model/year. Good luck!
 

jfoj

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What the 2 above posters said.

Moderator will likely move this thread to the correct section.
 

rdezs

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AFM hardware delete. But at 300k, is it worth it? Your call ...
 

rdezs

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By the way, that little filter under the sending unit that you removed because it kept getting clogged is there to protect the AFM solenoids and lifters....
 

Foggy

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Probably rocker arm needle bearings ( a guess) they clack like a lifter
when the bearing go bye bye
Also, there were many incidents of BAD lifters - regular lifters
whether they were GM / Comp/ etc brands being just crap quality from
new
You can check the rockers by pulling the valve covers.
To replace the lifters on an LS you have to remove the cyl heads
 

West 1

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You clearly reported you had junk floating in your oil and plugging the screen below the Oil sensor port. That same junk is pumped through the entire engine. Lifters have the tightest clearance inside of any part inside your engine. When junk in the oil reaches the lifter it will stick, the tiny piston inside the lifter gets stuck and will no longer adjust leaving your push rods loose and the rattle happens. Sometimes the push rod can jump off the lifter and gets bent.
Based on the semi low miles on this replacement block that would be my guess. Pull a valve cover and inspect, it is only 15 minutes work and 4 bolts to remove. Good luck.
 
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Kwing

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I am such a jerk! LOL

When I hit "Watch" for this thread, I didn't click on the email notifications. I totally thought it was just a ghost thread that no one ever responded too! That and I had no clue I put it in the wrong sub-forum. First time I've made that stupid mistake.

Sorry!!!

Anyway, thanks for the suggestions/feedback! As it turns out, my confidence in what it "wasn't" was unjustified and as stupid as my forum etiquette. The consistent misses were the result of connectors that were seating weird. The misses went away after I fixed that, and the tapping slowly died down... trading places up for a misfire on #6 - followed by #4, then #7. Funny enough, #1 has been behaving for no explicable reason.

Turns out, if the AFM solenoid starts getting some age on it (say ~300k miles), it can start to bleed a bit of pressure through the valley cover spider, ever so slightly pressurizing the AFM lifters. With my gunked oil and no filter, the net effect was the same as if the the AFM had kicked in, it just took longer to get off the cliff.

I learned all this from a nice gentleman in South Dakota who has a YouTube channel where he explains the problem (although that was the first time I heard the term "VLOM"). He also sells a nifty little tool for trying to tap the lifters loose instead of using an old pushrod, and a little machined sleeve to block the pressurized oil circuit from reaching the valley spider in the first place (drops right in where the stupid filter used to be).

He also explains the necessity of busting the gaskets around the lifter ports to ensure no pressure can build up in there, ever. That alone would probably have solved my issue before it began if I had 2 IQ points.

I ordered his little kit anyway, because for $50 it seemed worth it - and it seemed like a fair price for an education.

The only issue now is: it's like a billion degrees in Phoenix right now and my 230lbs @$$ can barely walk to the mailbox without feeling like I'm gonna die! ROTFL

Hoping to get out there next weekend and rip off the intake, valley cover, and valve covers to give it a go. I'll also be installing helicoils for my valve cover bolts that my BIL stripped, but that's a whole other story...

I'll let ya'll know how it turns out when I finally get out there!

Thanks again!
 

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