2007 Tahoe LT 4x4 5.3L gas 158k miles, how long do the engine's last?

[jj88]

I was wondering about how long these engines last?

This one has 158k miles and loses about a quart every 5-7k miles. Its had fairly regular oil changes, all with synthetic I believe. Switching from 5w-30 to 10w-30 synthetic today to try to prevent oil loss.

It does do a lot of towing long distance and in hot weather. Trans has been rebuilt. Rear diff rebuilt.

Just wondering about the engine and if there's any signs to worry about. It does have some slight ticking, so the valves will probably need to be adjusted at some point.

Thanks for any tips

 

[wjburken]

I was wondering about how long these engines last?

This one has 158k miles and loses about a quart every 5-7k miles. Its had fairly regular oil changes, all with synthetic I believe. Switching from 5w-30 to 10w-30 synthetic today to try to prevent oil loss.

It does do a lot of towing long distance and in hot weather. Trans has been rebuilt. Rear diff rebuilt.

Just wondering about the engine and if there's any signs to worry about. It does have some slight ticking, so the valves will probably need to be adjusted at some point.

Thanks for any tips

Welcome to the forum from Iowa.

One of the culprits for losing oil is the drivers side valve cover. They came out with a redesign that reduces the amount the gets sucked in the intake through the PCV hose. Might consider getting one and see if that helps with your oil consumption.

Might also look at getting your AFM disabled with a disabled device or a tune. That will help as well.

Properly taken care of, these can go past 250k easily.

 

[Miami-Dade]

Welcome from Miami Beach John!

You should change out your oil at 5K miles anyway so adding oil will not be necessary. I would stick to 5w30 [which is what your Tahoe calls for] and not go to 10w30. I recommend either Mobil 1 or AC Delco oil and AC Delco Filter.

But that is just me. To each their own.

 

[wsteele]

What he said, but welcome from Idaho.

I have a 2007 Yukon SLT 4X. If your engine code is LMG (inside glove box sticker), we have the exact same engine. I used my Yukon early on for lots of towing (bought it new primarily as a tow vehicle). Rebuilt transmission at 87K.

In 2007, these engine came with a valve cover that was suboptimal and lacked an upgrade to the AFM system which entailed a deflector on the AFM pressure relief valve, which directed oil spraying out that valve downward into the pan and away from the cylinders. These two upgrades, standard on later models, improved the oil usage profiles of these engines a lot.

There is a service bulletin that covers the problem and the fix. A dealer can tell you if yours was fixed (if you aren’t the original owner).

The ticking is worrisome and should be investigated as soon as possible. The Lifters in the AFM system are prone to collapsing. Probably should take it to a trusted mechanic soon. The AFM lifters are on Cylinders 1, 4, 6 and 7.

PS - that amount of oil consumption is not worrisome, definitely go to every 5K and stick with factory recommended oil weight. The AFM system apparently really depends on keeping up on your regular maintenance (clean lubrication system). Lots of guys in these forums with really high mileage examples.

 

[iamdub]

I was wondering about how long these engines last?

This one has 158k miles and loses about a quart every 5-7k miles. Its had fairly regular oil changes, all with synthetic I believe. Switching from 5w-30 to 10w-30 synthetic today to try to prevent oil loss.

It does do a lot of towing long distance and in hot weather. Trans has been rebuilt. Rear diff rebuilt.

Just wondering about the engine and if there's any signs to worry about. It does have some slight ticking, so the valves will probably need to be adjusted at some point.

Thanks for any tips

That's not a lot of oil usage, but it might can be improved. I wouldn't go over 5K on the oil change interval, even if running synthetic. Well cared-for, these are 250K+ engines. AFM is their downfall. Signs to worry about are the ticking. The valves are not adjustable. If the ticking is a lifter(s), you should take this as a warning and not wait until it worsens.

My story: Bought an '08 at 146K. Around 10K miles later, it'd get a lifter tick at startup ever so often but the real concern was a rumbling and rough engine when slowing down for a stop. This was from the AFM still being engaged at low RPM. Had AFM turned off in a tune to make it operate normally. Switched from Mobil1 oil to Pennzoil Platinum 10w-30 and ticking at startup greatly subsided and even went away for a little while. Burned maybe a quart between 5K OCIs and collected 3oz in the catch can, all very consistently. Always had good oil pressure. Around 190K, the ticking came back. At 200K, I deleted the AFM with a mild performance cam, upped the compression, and some other small doodads while it was out. Didn't touch any of the bearings as this wasn't intended to be a full-on rebuild and they looked fine considering the mileage. It now runs over a second faster than a stock Tahoe in the 1/4 mile, gets better MPG than it did with AFM and doesn't appear to be burning any oil now. I haven't quite gone 5K since the engine work, but the dipstick is still at the "full" mark and I hit 6,000 RPM quite often.

 

[cfmistry]

Your oil loss isn't a lot, but will definitely be reduced by the updated valvecover. I am burning less than 1/2 a qt in 7,000mi after changing mine and adding an AFM disabler.

As others have mentioned, it is pretty routine for a well-cared-for engine to reach and exceed 250k miles. There are members on here with nearly 350k. The transmissions, unfortunately, do not last as long (especially if you tow).

 

[Aeterna]

For what its worth, I dont like using synthetic in these motors. They are already prone to leaking and synthetic just makes it worse.

for quite some time I have been running a conventional high mileage oil. Cuts back on leaks and consumption and It stopped my random lifter tick in the mornings. Run it for 3-4k miles between changes. I am at 190k miles and is still the most reliable vehicle I have owned (07 Tahoe z71 4x4)

Also, I highly recommend changing the driver side valve cover, I was burning close to a quart every 1k miles (**** smoke at startup). After changing the cover I don't lose anything noticeable. And always use the acdelco filter, the off brands dont seem to get the drain back valve quite right.

 

[89Suburban]

My ‘07 is coming up to 328K. When I bought it 4 years ago it was at 290K. Immediately put the Range AFM device on it. Replaced the leaking valve cover gaskets. VLOM assembly gasket was also blown out causing performance issues and bad oil leak out the back. Replaced that. Oil sensor and screen while I was in there. (Original screen was not in there.) Installed a catch can. Just installed the updated valve cover last week. I was losing half a quart every 2 weeks. I got that knocked down to about every 5 or 6 weeks now. Still chasing a leak at the bottom. It’s not the rear main. I can see in the inspection cover in the trans it’s dry. So it’s the pan gasket or hopefully the oil cooler plate gasket. Still tracking that one down.

She runs fairly well still. Idles a little rough here and there. No visible blue smoke out the exhaust at all. Though I have some plugs that do get some build up on them and have to be replaced after a couple years. I put higher heat range in the last time hoping that would help. Still plugging along knock on wood...

 

[JGib]

My 2007 tahoe ltz (lmg) had 230k on it when i replaced the motor. Used about 1gt of oil every 700-1000 miles. Engine was still strong, used it to pull my camper and boat.

Last 20k miles started to develop a slight tick. Marvel mystery oil at oil change cleared it up.

Due to the mileage, possible lifter collapsing (tick and spark plug fouling), rear main seal leaking and front oil leak we decided to buy a GM long block. $3500 shipped to my house.

New engine will include the updated valve cover, oil return diverter and any other updates GM has made over the last years. 100k mile warranty as well.

 

[wsteele]

My ‘07 is coming up to 328K. When I bought it 4 years ago it was at 290K. Immediately put the Range AFM device on it. Replaced the leaking valve cover gaskets. VLOM assembly gasket was also blown out causing performance issues and bad oil leak out the back. Replaced that. Oil sensor and screen while I was in there. (Original screen was not in there.) Installed a catch can. Just installed the updated valve cover last week. I was losing half a quart every 2 weeks. I got that knocked down to about every 5 or 6 weeks now. Still chasing a leak at the bottom. It’s not the rear main. I can see in the inspection cover in the trans it’s dry. So it’s the pan gasket or hopefully the oil cooler plate gasket. Still tracking that one down.

She runs fairly well still. Idles a little rough here and there. No visible blue smoke out the exhaust at all. Though I have some plugs that do get some build up on them and have to be replaced after a couple years. I put higher heat range in the last time hoping that would help. Still plugging along knock on wood...

I too just installed the Range AFM disabler. In my head, I can come up with some reasons why it maybe not a great idea in my particular case. My biggest concern is I have to remove it about every 2 years to have my emissions test performed. I have to drive some amount of Universal Trip stuff without it, before going in to the test, so I don't fail the test. I verified with my cheapo Scan Tool dongle that after I remove the AFM disabler, the I/M section says I have trip stuff to complete before I will be ready to take the test. I am going to try and nail down if it is just one Universal Trip thing, or more cycles than that, so I can minimize how much driving I do without the Range disabler, before the test.

My fear (likely unfounded) is that by disabling the AFM with the Range device, more sludge can build up in the VLOM (due to disuse) and when I unplug the dongle for my trip stuff to clear before the emissions test, I run the risk of something sticking inside the VLOM and a collapsed AFM lifter the result. I have no idea if this concern is even close to being valid and based on so many reports of no problems, it is probably not an issue, but I always have Murphy firmly in the back of my mind.

 

[iamdub]

I too just installed the Range AFM disabler. In my head, I can come up with some reasons why it maybe not a great idea in my particular case. My biggest concern is I have to remove it about every 2 years to have my emissions test performed. I have to drive some amount of Universal Trip stuff without it, before going in to the test, so I don't fail the test. I verified with my cheapo Scan Tool dongle that after I remove the AFM disabler, the I/M section says I have trip stuff to complete before I will be ready to take the test. I am going to try and nail down if it is just one Universal Trip thing, or more cycles than that, so I can minimize how much driving I do without the Range disabler, before the test.

My fear (likely unfounded) is that by disabling the AFM with the Range device, more sludge can build up in the VLOM (due to disuse) and when I unplug the dongle for my trip stuff to clear before the emissions test, I run the risk of something sticking inside the VLOM and a collapsed AFM lifter the result. I have no idea if this concern is even close to being valid and based on so many reports of no problems, it is probably not an issue, but I always have Murphy firmly in the back of my mind.

Which is why a ~$50 tune to disable AFM is far better than a $200 plug-in module.

 

[89Suburban]

I too just installed the Range AFM disabler. In my head, I can come up with some reasons why it maybe not a great idea in my particular case. My biggest concern is I have to remove it about every 2 years to have my emissions test performed. I have to drive some amount of Universal Trip stuff without it, before going in to the test, so I don't fail the test. I verified with my cheapo Scan Tool dongle that after I remove the AFM disabler, the I/M section says I have trip stuff to complete before I will be ready to take the test. I am going to try and nail down if it is just one Universal Trip thing, or more cycles than that, so I can minimize how much driving I do without the Range disabler, before the test.

My fear (likely unfounded) is that by disabling the AFM with the Range device, more sludge can build up in the VLOM (due to disuse) and when I unplug the dongle for my trip stuff to clear before the emissions test, I run the risk of something sticking inside the VLOM and a collapsed AFM lifter the result. I have no idea if this concern is even close to being valid and based on so many reports of no problems, it is probably not an issue, but I always have Murphy firmly in the back of my mind.

I feel you. I have to do the same thing EVERY year for testing. I pull it out a week prior so it resets. I don't really stress over it though, it is what it is and I am grateful how long it has lasted so far. And she is VERY clean inside regarding sludge for this mileage:

 

[wsteele]

Which is why a ~$50 tune to disable AFM is far better than a $200 plug-in module.

I agree if the flash delete will also pass emissions. I still haven’t got any confirmation by anyone with skin in the game that it will actually do that.

I guess I could try the Diablo unit and after I drive plenty to assure the trip stuff has been completed, take a look at the I/M stuff and verify that at least my $20 scan tool thinks I will pass. If not, I could always just put it back to stock and only be $350 lighter for the education.

 

[wsteele]

I feel you. I have to do the same thing EVERY year for testing. I pull it out a week prior so it resets. I don't really stress over it though, it is what it is and I am grateful how long it has lasted so far. And she is VERY clean inside regarding sludge for this mileage:




View attachment 268733 View attachment 268734 View attachment 268735 View attachment 268736

Looking good for sure.

 

[89Suburban]

I agree if the flash delete will also pass emissions. I still haven’t got any confirmation by anyone with skin in the game that it will actually do that.

Good question

 

[Geotrash]

When I lived in CO (up until March 2020), I had to have my rigs' emissions tested every other year. On the 2012 (the one that used to have AFM), I just unplugged the Range device while I was next in line waiting to pull into the bay with the engine running. Never had an issue. Living in Richmond now, I don't miss the emissions testing process at all.

Side story: I had a friend in CO with a 2003 Pontiac Montana minivan. The CEL had been on for eons (O2 sensors), and when she finally had to have it tested after driving it to CO from Florida, she was scared to death that it wouldn't pass. I took it in for her and cleared the CEL while I was waiting in line. Not only did it pass the test, they stopped the test early on the drive cycle dyno because it was running so clean, no further testing was necessary.

With the fuel management and emissions systems in modern cars, the whole testing process is no longer necessary, IMHO. When one with sensors weak enough to trip the CEL still runs so clean, what's the point?

 

[89Suburban]

When I lived in CO (up until March 2020), I had to have my rigs' emissions tested every other year. On the 2012 (the one that used to have AFM), I just unplugged the Range device while I was next in line waiting to pull into the bay with the engine running. Never had an issue. Living in Richmond now, I don't miss the emissions testing process at all.

Side story: I had a friend in CO with a 2003 Pontiac Montana minivan. The CEL had been on for eons (O2 sensors), and when she finally had to have it tested after driving it to CO from Florida, she was scared to death that it wouldn't pass. I took it in for her and cleared the CEL while I was waiting in line. Not only did it pass the test, they stopped the test early on the drive cycle dyno because it was running so clean, no further testing was necessary.

With the fuel management and emissions systems in modern cars, the whole testing process is no longer necessary, IMHO. When one with sensors weak enough to trip the CEL still runs so clean, what's the point?

PA testing is brutal here. Now way one day with the device unplugged would fly here. Glad for you. Sucks for me.

 

[wsteele]

When I lived in CO (up until March 2020), I had to have my rigs' emissions tested every other year. On the 2012 (the one that used to have AFM), I just unplugged the Range device while I was next in line waiting to pull into the bay with the engine running. Never had an issue. Living in Richmond now, I don't miss the emissions testing process at all.

Side story: I had a friend in CO with a 2003 Pontiac Montana minivan. The CEL had been on for eons (O2 sensors), and when she finally had to have it tested after driving it to CO from Florida, she was scared to death that it wouldn't pass. I took it in for her and cleared the CEL while I was waiting in line. Not only did it pass the test, they stopped the test early on the drive cycle dyno because it was running so clean, no further testing was necessary.

With the fuel management and emissions systems in modern cars, the whole testing process is no longer necessary, IMHO. When one with sensors weak enough to trip the CEL still runs so clean, what's the point?

When I take my Range dongle out of the ODBII port, and put my cheapie scanner in, the I/M stuff tells me I have a few things pending, before it says my car will pass (thinks I have some trip criteria that needs doing before everything will be clear).

I have no way of knowing if that actually means I don’t pass.

Given down the road, if I have to go reman, I will probably want to also do the mechanical delete, so I guess at some point it makes sense for me to know if a flash delete will pass as well.

 

[Fless]

When I lived in CO (up until March 2020), I had to have my rigs' emissions tested every other year. On the 2012 (the one that used to have AFM), I just unplugged the Range device while I was next in line waiting to pull into the bay with the engine running. Never had an issue. Living in Richmond now, I don't miss the emissions testing process at all.

Side story: I had a friend in CO with a 2003 Pontiac Montana minivan. The CEL had been on for eons (O2 sensors), and when she finally had to have it tested after driving it to CO from Florida, she was scared to death that it wouldn't pass. I took it in for her and cleared the CEL while I was waiting in line. Not only did it pass the test, they stopped the test early on the drive cycle dyno because it was running so clean, no further testing was necessary.

With the fuel management and emissions systems in modern cars, the whole testing process is no longer necessary, IMHO. When one with sensors weak enough to trip the CEL still runs so clean, what's the point?

Colorado has Rapid Screen locations that are drive-bys, at various places like highway on-ramps and busy streets. If I drive past two of these within a certain window of time prior to renewal, and they log my vehicle as passing the test, I don't have to go to the test site. Some locations are semi-permanent and others are moved around, but we can go online to find out where they are and make an intentional pass. Convenient, but one must still pay the $25 fee when an emissions test is required for that year's renewal.

RapidScreen roadside data collection units (either housed in white vans or small green boxes) collect emissions-related data as vehicles are driven by them. This data is used to identify exceptionally-clean vehicles. It is matched to vehicle registration records maintained by the home county and enables tens of thousands of motorists to skip their regular inspection at an Air Care Colorado facility. The units are set up most days at pre-determined, state-approved sites throughout the Denver-metropolitan area and North Front Range area. They are rotated regularly to collect data from as many vehicles as possible. Select the links below to find out where units will be located in the current and upcoming weeks.

To qualify for RapidScreen, a vehicle must record two clean readings within the 14 months and at least 60 days prior to the vehicle's registration renewal month. For example, if your vehicle's registration month is July, the two clean readings must occur between May 1 of the previous year and May 1 of the renewal year. ​

 

[iamdub]

I agree if the flash delete will also pass emissions. I still haven’t got any confirmation by anyone with skin in the game that it will actually do that.

I guess I could try the Diablo unit and after I drive plenty to assure the trip stuff has been completed, take a look at the I/M stuff and verify that at least my $20 scan tool thinks I will pass. If not, I could always just put it back to stock and only be $350 lighter for the education.

$50 plus whatever it costs to send him your PCM (he's in Missouri) :

https://www.lt1swap.com/afm_delete.htm

Having it turned off in the tune doesn't affect emissions or the readiness monitors. It's like it doesn't exist. If you were to do a mechanical delete, you'd have to have it turned off in the tune, anyway. I had mine disabled in a tune back in 2017 and never had a problem passing emissions since. All readiness monitors were always good to go.