2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe

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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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I’m fine, whole neighborhood has power and wifi. Tahoe fuel pump still not working tho.

I did another test and believe it’s the ground that’s having issues. I ran the factory wires directly to the pump which does not activate it. However, if I add a ground to the ground wire directly from the battery the pump kicks on and stays on. That tells me the grounds not good enough for the initial turning on of the pump.

Anyone know where the ground location is? I’ve check the ones I know and see nothing wrong.
 

Fless

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Not sure if this is correct, but what I see on diagrams is Ground Zone 21. That's one of the two grounds on/by the body mount, right behind the left front tire. Essentially under where the door hinges would be.

4x4 Left_Side_Frame_Rail_Grounds.jpg
 
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Dantheman1540

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You've done a load test like this no-BS guy does? That would verify the load capacity of each power wire.


That’s how I determined the ground was no good. He’s pretty funny and I feel his disdain for crappy shops that shotgun parts like I do, I just don’t have to pay myself the labor.

Not sure if this is correct, but what I see on diagrams is Ground Zone 21. That's one of the two grounds on/by the body mount, right behind the left front tire. Essentially under where the door hinges would be.

View attachment 381657

I actually think it goes to the ECU but I didn’t get that far.

I found a crunched part of the wiring harness the runs along the outside of the frame rail under the driver door. Pretty sure at some point someone had it jacked there and it slipped off scraping the harness. One wire had minor chaffing and when Wiggled the pump kicked on. I cut out and replaced a section of that wire and it’s running good!

If anyone knows as priest that preforms Exorcists on GM electrical systems PM me his #.
 

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That’s how I determined the ground was no good. He’s pretty funny and I feel his disdain for crappy shops that shotgun parts like I do, I just don’t have to pay myself the labor.



I actually think it goes to the ECU but I didn’t get that far.

I found a crunched part of the wiring harness the runs along the outside of the frame rail under the driver door. Pretty sure at some point someone had it jacked there and it slipped off scraping the harness. One wire had minor chaffing and when Wiggled the pump kicked on. I cut out and replaced a section of that wire and it’s running good!

If anyone knows as priest that preforms Exorcists on GM electrical systems PM me his #.
mine was just a cheap relay some idiot installed :oops:
 
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Dantheman1540

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I doubt that either the ground or the power goes through the ECU. The fuel gauge does, but the pump takes too much current for the ECU to handle. Hence the power relay.

You are probably right about that, I didn’t trace it all the way I just did a visual and spotted that which happened to fix the problem. I was trying to identify the color but it’s all muddy and I was in a bit of a hurry to finish.

mine was just a cheap relay some idiot installed :oops:
These idiots that keep doing stuff to our trucks are worse than Cat thieves or hurricanes.
 
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I accomplished the 285k oil change last night after the fuel pump was solved. Drain magnet looked awesome and had nothing solid just a very small amount of mush. The oil filter looked great too, I saw nothing out of the ordinary, which makes sense because the oil itself looked golden still which just blows my mind for a 5k interval on a ragged old pos.

I put in some 10-40 this time to see if my hot idle OP is over 20psi with thicker stuff.
 

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Oh yayy my AC isn’t working again :banghead:
Cadillac still junk too if it makes you feel better.
Exhaust is on and no more cel, or exhaust leak. But still kinda shakes/shudders with light throttle. Converter slip trying to make the drive smoother, im prob just going to send in the tcm to be unlocked and change tune to either allow no slip or stay unlocked till higher gears. Gm tune is just garbage
 

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