George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I have one and it works well for me too.
2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe
- Thread starter Dantheman1540
- Start date
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Dantheman1540
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Wow, lots of good reviews cool it's ordered! I think I'll just have Discount tire R&R the sensors from the LTZ20s to the new ones because I have a good relationship with them and have to throw them some money occasionally, plus I want the new setup rebalanced and I'm lazy.
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
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Dantheman1540
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Haven't really pushed this thing much since I'm trying to spend all my free time on the other truck but last night a newer Ram 1500 with HIDs in reflector housings was attempting a ricer-flyby and had to be stopped. I was just leaving a stop and getting up to cruise speed when I saw him weave lanes and start trying to run me down. I was doing around 50mph in third when I decided to let him have it and ran up to 96mph and what I thought was 7k or right there at 7k when I looked at the dash tach. However, according to HPT I only pushed to 5,900 rpm which is obviously contradictory to what I saw on the dash cluster. I do occasionally have issues with HPT logging only partial data, it's as if it only decides to log certain channels despite the channels selected being supported by this ECU. This particular log was one of those and you can see in the attached picture that the channel area has blank rows that should have channels in them.
Anyway, my main concern is that I need to figure out if the cluster or HPT is lying about RPM because there's no reason to have a 7k tach if it's really just a reskin that doesn't give accurate data.
Anyway, my main concern is that I need to figure out if the cluster or HPT is lying about RPM because there's no reason to have a 7k tach if it's really just a reskin that doesn't give accurate data.
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randeez
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sometimes i have to unplug the hptuners thingy from obd and computer completely and plug it back in..it just clitches and only shows what it wants.... usually if ive been logging stop it, and restart without ever closing program
also, why is your maf reading so high? what size intake tube are you using?
also, why is your maf reading so high? what size intake tube are you using?
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Dantheman1540
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Yeah I am bad about leaving the OBD dude in too long, I've found that's one of the main culprits for fail to write.
Its whatever AFE intake tube came with the CAI. It's 4" at the TB connection but necks down to 3.5 I think for the factory MAF.
randeez
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o it uses the cylinder housing and all in one?
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Dantheman1540
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Yeah, one big tube that connects to the tube style maf and then the cone filter connectors to that. I still have weird startup issues, one day it will run crazy lean the next rich, and the next surging and nearly stalling out. I re-enabled the MAF hoping that would help but doesn't seem like it did, sometimes it starts up and drives perfectly. I think part of the issue is possibly a cold start misfire but I hadn't gotten a good log showing misfires yet.
randeez
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got a pic of under the hood?
as you know, in a perfect world you should have some length of pipe the same diameter in front of and behind the maf.
with the larger pipe after the air immediately expands. can that maf be swapped to a card style in the same size pipe? or im sure aftermarket may have same style in diff diameter pipe.
tuning idle in SD is a real pita, tuning it with a clean maf signal should be simple - unless its jumping all around at idle (dirty maf signal)
as you know, in a perfect world you should have some length of pipe the same diameter in front of and behind the maf.
with the larger pipe after the air immediately expands. can that maf be swapped to a card style in the same size pipe? or im sure aftermarket may have same style in diff diameter pipe.
tuning idle in SD is a real pita, tuning it with a clean maf signal should be simple - unless its jumping all around at idle (dirty maf signal)
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Dantheman1540
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I'll get a pic in a bit, it idles perfectly except for the first 90seconds after startup and not all the time does it act bad. Its not just idle during that 90seconds either it will buck and jerk when trying to drive as well.
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Dantheman1540
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As long as you don't ask "is it in yet" your questions won't bother me.
randeez
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have you try adding/subtract some air flow from the base idle airflow table in the lower coolant temps?
baby steps...drag the 133* value back two cells and smooth it down to -40 cell....see if better/worse, it may want more flow in those cells
is it all start ups or just cold starts?
could try knocking down the "choke flow mode" its set at 50seconds, maybe put it on 10 or so and see if it helps
try and see what else "changes" at your 90sec mark
baby steps...drag the 133* value back two cells and smooth it down to -40 cell....see if better/worse, it may want more flow in those cells
is it all start ups or just cold starts?
could try knocking down the "choke flow mode" its set at 50seconds, maybe put it on 10 or so and see if it helps
try and see what else "changes" at your 90sec mark
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Dantheman1540
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Where is the choke flow mode?
I had done a bunch of BAF adjustments and I have logged the desired IAF from cold starts to natural warm-up with no accessories multiple times so it should be fairly accurate but the symptoms seem to point towards that as the issue so I'll keep adjusting small increments at a time.
randeez
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engine>idle>airflow> 4th tab down on the far left column
if im looking at the correct old tune of yours
if im looking at the correct old tune of yours
pwtr02ss
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I ALWAYS know when you're in Daddy D
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Dantheman1540
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Yep found it, I swear I go blind when looking for something new in there. It's set for .50 is that 50 seconds or half a second? Pretty sure it's half a second.
randeez
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oops yea i think youre right lol
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Dantheman1540
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Also, the 90second mark is not a hard stop that's just an estimate and it genuinely seems to change, sometimes It gets better before I get out of my yard other times it doesn't get better till half a mile from the house. Which is what has made it so difficult to track down. Also many times the AFR does not log correctly the first minute or so of logging, it's like the algorithm has an error and it reads +100 in every cell. very possible the sensor is going out and is just taking longer to heat up but it really screws up the initial startup log data. The strange thing is the gauge will read correctly but the histogram won't log correctly. So many damn gremlins!
randeez
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yea thats what i assumed....thats why i would look at tables effected by coolant temp in : fuel, air, spark
and didnt see if you answered - is this on cold starts or all starts?
