2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe

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pwtr02ss

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You and me both! AFter the AC seats in the Expedition MAX and now this I want to go test drive some new **** lol
I had one of those the last time we were in Maine. ****** was pretty nice but I did slam it from reverse to park more times than I care to admit. Stupid twist knob shifter. Also, the start stop was annoying. By the time I returned it, I had mastered turning that **** off as soon as I hit the key. Coming from 2019 Denali, to 2019 max, I think the seats were more comfortable and the ride was better. But, it was the max and mine is the short model. Could be the difference
 
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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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I had one of those the last time we were in Maine. ****** was pretty nice but I did slam it from reverse to park more times than I care to admit. Stupid twist knob shifter. Also, the start stop was annoying. By the time I returned it, I had mastered turning that **** off as soon as I hit the key. Coming from 2019 Denali, to 2019 max, I think the seats were more comfortable and the ride was better. But, it was the max and mine is the short model. Could be the difference

Auto stop start is awful I hate it. I was very surprised how nice the interior was, idk if it was the top of the line or not but I thought they did great with material choice. The turn dial absolutely kills it tho, I already hate autos but any truck that doesn't have a column shifted auto is garbage in my eyes.

AC worked all the way to the gas station to fill all my cans because I mowed for 3 hours until I ran out this morning lol. Of course I get there and the cable which I have precariously ziptied together for the rear hatch handle breaks and I had to hoist 5 gallon cans in through the window. FIxed thaat as soon as I got home and realized I didn't do much sound absorption on the rear hatch, I'm gonna order some to try nd help with the exhuast noise a tad
 
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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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Nope, the lower sensor did not fix it completely. I had AC all day Monday and did a bunch of errands then finally heading home from my last errand I got on it a bit probably up to 5krpm and then the AC quit working again. I cycled the ignition a few times and still it wouldn't work but then I disconnected and reconnected the sensor on the drier and I think it was working this morning. So I'm gonna order the correct sensor this time and see if that works, I have a suspicious feeling it has something to do with the tune but not sure what it would be. I have the AC set to turn off at 4,500 but then reenable when it dips below 3,750. Maybe the sensor in the drier is getting a pressure spike and then sticking at that high pressure reading causing the compressor to not come on. Just spitballing there but until I get my correct new laptop battery in Friday I can't log data.

Also, the damn rear hatch ghetto rig I did broke again when I got out to the shooting range with 5 people's gear loaded in the back :mad:. Had to crawl over a mountain of **** and disassembly the door panel while it's closed which is a pain in the ****. So I'm done with the ghetto zip tie fixes on that and I'll try to find the OEM plastic clip that retains the lower handle cable.
 
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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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Here's a pic of the little clip that retained the cable that broke. It's really hard to tell without pulling the entire panel if it's part of the door handle or not. I have the old black textured handle assembly at home so I will check on that and maybe I will get lucky and be able to use part of it to fix my paint-matched handle. I also ordered a whole bunch of sounds deadening matterial because while I'm in there I might as well.......

50sqft of kill matt
50sqft of 1* mass loaded vinyl
36sqft of closed-cell foam
132ft of seam sealer tape

All this I plan to put on the rear hatch, trunk floor, and wheel well areas to maybe help cut down a tad bit of exhaust noise still.
 

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Bigkevschopshop

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Here's a pic of the little clip that retained the cable that broke. It's really hard to tell without pulling the entire panel if it's part of the door handle or not. I have the old black textured handle assembly at home so I will check on that and maybe I will get lucky and be able to use part of it to fix my paint-matched handle. I also ordered a whole bunch of sounds deadening matterial because while I'm in there I might as well.......

50sqft of kill matt
50sqft of 1* mass loaded vinyl
36sqft of closed-cell foam
132ft of seam sealer tape

All this I plan to put on the rear hatch, trunk floor, and wheel well areas to maybe help cut down a tad bit of exhaust noise still.
should quit things down a bit for sure.
 
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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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should quit things down a bit for sure.

Thats what I'm thinking, especially since it has a turn down directly under the rear cargo area. I noticed it's much louder with the seats folded down (Which is my typical configuration) so the seats are blocking some of it now and it may benefit from more sound deadener.
 

pwtr02ss

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Negative ghost rider...... I had a buyer lined up and he couldn't wait any longer so I guess I'm keeping them again for now.
WTF. I'd be pissed.

Sorry to recommend them and they dragging their feet. Have they sent you any updates? Seems like we had this talk over a month ago and they were supposed to ship out in couple weeks.
 
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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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WTF. I'd be pissed.

Sorry to recommend them and they dragging their feet. Have they sent you any updates? Seems like we had this talk over a month ago and they were supposed to ship out in couple weeks.

In a way, it's saving me from myself. The current plan is still to put those heads on the tahoe and sell the 862s with the 212/218 cam, beehive springs, CHE rockers, and pushrods I have to some sucker looking for a good simple setup.
 
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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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Looked at the broken rear handle and I'm unsure if its actually the cable not being pulled enough or if the actuator is worn out. That makes sense because the hatch nor the glass will open right now. Heres a video of what its doing.


Also started on the rear hatch and cargo floor insulation even though the MLV isn't here yet. I forgot I had done some Dynamatt type product on the floor and a few small pieces on the hatch door before. Did another better layer on the floor along with some closed-cell foam from Norico that laid down incredibly well, the adhesive they use is seriously sticky. It didn't seem better yet but I didn't have the interior put back together or the MLV down either. I have enough insulation left to pull the rear seats and do the rear floorboard area as well however, I think I will end up putting small cats back into the system.
 

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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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I think that actuator is just too weak to fully unlock so I'm gonna take a chance on a $15 replacement from amazon hopefully, that will fix my issue.

My 408 Denali buddy suddenly wants to copy my exhaust setup but I think I'm gonna try something else before I have him order that ridiculously expensive Gibson dual 3"/single 4" muffler. I'm gonna attempt to take one of the Flopro mufflers I have laying around and hack the dual 3" outlet up to adapt a Vibrant merge onto it so that it will essentially be a 4" outlet in a similar-sized package. If it works the way I'm hoping I think it will quiet the system down to the level I'm looking for without the need for cats.
 
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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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I think I have the AC issue figured out a little better. If I unplug and replug in the sensor on the drier the AC works fine for several days until I go above 3k rpm which it then promptly turns off and will not come on again until that sensor is fondled. So strange but the new sensor should be here Saturday.

As for the exhaust, I canceled the order of the Vibrant merge pipe and ordered some 3" pipe to make a J tube with like @Sam Harris suggested a while back. I'm fairly certain the noise that's bothering me is pure drone because outside the truck the exhaust doesn't seem that loud. Inside is a whole different animal and it's most noticeable at low RPM like 1,200-1,800 even worse when I'm lugging the poor thing around in 4th and 5th gear at low speeds. So the plan is to do an 18-20" tube directly off the over axle pipe right behind the final muffler and have it hidden in the spare tire location. Should be fairly easy since the over axle pipe has a V band so It can be removed for the cutting and welding.
 

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Tonyrodz

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I think I have the AC issue figured out a little better. If I unplug and replug in the sensor on the drier the AC works fine for several days until I go above 3k rpm which it then promptly turns off and will not come on again until that sensor is fondled. So strange but the new sensor should be here Saturday.

As for the exhaust, I canceled the order of the Vibrant merge pipe and ordered some 3" pipe to make a J tube with like @Sam Harris suggested a while back. I'm fairly certain the noise that's bothering me is pure drone because outside the truck the exhaust doesn't seem that loud. Inside is a whole different animal and it's most noticeable at low RPM like 1,200-1,800 even worse when I'm lugging the poor thing around in 4th and 5th gear at low speeds. So the plan is to do an 18-20" tube directly off the over axle pipe right behind the final muffler and have it hidden in the spare tire location. Should be fairly easy since the over axle pipe has a V band so It can be removed for the cutting and welding.
Lol, funny drawing :happy175:
I'm such a kid:p
 

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