2003 Yukon SLT flex fuel 5.3L whats brand would you use? cam, oil pump, lifters, timing chain

[Summajet]

I had another post on misfire on #2 and I removed the passenger side head and the one of the lifters (towards front) appears to have turned 90 degrees and has ruined the lifter and the cam lobe.

I have drained oil last night and waiting for it to filter through the towel and look for metal particles. I did cut the oil filter open and I did have some small metal particles from the lifter in the paper pleats of the filter. I will look at the drain plug tonight and also the towel to look for metal particles. I have not pulled the oil pan yet to look at the screen or pan. Looking at the bottom of the valve of the bad lifter it does have some pitting and I am assuming that part of the metal exited through the exhaust port?

I have not removed the Driver side head yet. Looking from inside the passenger side head other than the cam lobe damaged on the #2 cylinder it looks normal wear. I was planning on using a boroscope and look inside the camshaft housing for damage.

Has anyone ever had a lifter collapse or turn like mine and have metal particles in the filter and if so did you have to do a complete rebuild?

I don't want to do all the work and it have ruined the crank bearing and in 6 months the motor fails. I know it is a gamble anytime metal particles are found in the oil filter.

Prior to removing head it had good oil pressure. Just ticking noise/ felt like sitting on an uneven load in the washing machine while sitting in the drivers seat while idling.

It has 235,000 miles and I two a trailer and a boat at times. I'm not looking to increase performance, just replace parts and keep stock.

Here is what I pondering,
1. replace all 16 lifters
2. replace camshaft with Oem or stock
3. replace oil pump and strainer tube assembly
4. replace timing chain

What brand of parts do you prefer????
Camshaft, SKP SKES1067??, MELLING MC1383 {#12560967, 8125609670??

timing chain????
ACDELCO 12646386 GM Original Equipment
FitsGas
orFlex Fuel


GM Lifters?????
ACDELCO HL124 {#17122490} GM Original Equipment
FitsFLEX Fuel; HYD, ROLLER, NON-ACTIVE FUEL MANAGEMENT LIFTER
orGAS; HYD, ROLLER, NON-ACTIVE FUEL MANAGEMENT LIFTER

Oil Pump ????
MELLING M295HV324S
Includes M295HV Oil Pump And 324S Oil Pickup Tube Assembly; High Volume Oil Pump; 18% Additional Volume over Stock Oil Pump; Recommended For High Mileage Engines

Thanks!

 

[SnowDrifter]

No input on the rest of the parts list. But I put a melling m295hv on my rig. Quite happy with it, performs as intended. It's both high volume and includes a high pressure spring. Just don't cheap out on oil filters if you go that route. the thing puts out about 110psi at redline on a hot engine. I'd be worried about a cheaper filter shredding itself internally or blowing off. I use the longer filters. Fram PH 3675 or amsoil eao64. Cross reference if you want something else

 

[Summajet]

I had a productive weekend. I got everything removed except for dropping the oil pan.
I got the can out. In again to the #2 cylinder lifter the top of the #3 lifter fell out on top.
So far good.

 

[swathdiver]

I had a productive weekend. I got everything removed except for dropping the oil pan.
I got the can out. In again to the #2 cylinder lifter the top of the #3 lifter fell out on top.
So far good.

View attachment 227384

Make sure you replace the lifter guides, that is SOP when replacing lifters. Did you pull the oil pan to clean it out? How about the camshaft bearings? Did you pick a camshaft yet? I was going to suggest the L33s, camshaft (12583623), a little bit larger for a little more horsepower and torque while towing. That Melling cam you picked out in the list up there is for a 6.0 I think.

 

[Summajet]

I have to drop the 4wd reach to get clearance to drop oil pan.
Can shaft bearings looks good.
Definitely replacing the lifter guide trays, push rods, and rocker arms.

 

[swathdiver]

I have to drop the 4wd reach to get clearance to drop oil pan.
Can shaft bearings looks good.
Definitely replacing the lifter guide trays, push rods, and rocker arms.

Yep, at least take out bolts some and let it hang. You don't want to leave any bits of metal in there after all that work.

 

[Summajet]

I talked to master mechanic and he said he had an 07 5.3 and lifter went bad. He flushed the valley pan with diesel with the oil pan removed to make sure he got all the metal out of that more

 

[SnowDrifter]

Make sure you replace the lifter guides, that is SOP when replacing lifters. Did you pull the oil pan to clean it out? How about the camshaft bearings? Did you pick a camshaft yet? I was going to suggest the L33s, camshaft (12583623), a little bit larger for a little more horsepower and torque while towing. That Melling cam you picked out in the list up there is for a 6.0 I think.

I seem to recall there being better/upgraded lifter trays. I don't know anything about them, but hopefully that will get the discussion started.

If you replace the cam bearings. GET. THEM. LINE. BORED. These motors are apt to spin the things otherwise. Block warps a wee bit with time. Honestly same could be said for line boring the main bearings but I don't often hear of too many issues with that. I'll leave that one up to OP for the cost/quality/benefit analysis

 

[Summajet]

I got the oil pan removed and no metal in the pan. Took mini vacation so not much progress to report back on.

 

[Rocket Man]

I got the oil pan removed and no metal in the pan. Took mini vacation so not much progress to report back on.

That’s great news.

 

[Summajet]

That’s great news.

Yes good news so far!

Moment of Truth will be when key is turned on and running..

 

[Summajet]

I am going to work on it some more tonight. I pulled the oil pan and will post a picture of it. I have a found a GMC dealer that sells the camshaft as GM Oem direct replacement. I think their listing states new/other. I am trying to confirm it is a new part. If it is they are asking $275 shipped. Called the machine shop and they hope to inspect the heads tomorrow and report back on Friday. Any recommendations for a torque dial indicator? I saw there is a lisle with a battery wire to keep dial from moving.

 

[Summajet]

Here are some pictures heads removed. Machine shop said condition the Heads have normal wear and suggested the valve guides be replaced. Keeping it stock on cam and heads. Since I am going to all this work I might as well fix it right.

I have found two Gm dealers that sell gm oem parts at a considerable reduced price from list. Example cam list for $590. Dealership out west has it for $275 shipped. Something to keep in mind in reducing your parts/repairs cost..

 

[Summajet]

I forgot I did remove the oil deflector plate and saw no metal inside crank. I used diesel fuel and washed from inside the valley pan into the long block with a catch pan. I am using all Gm parts except for I might use a fel pro gasket kit. Has anyone used the fel pro gasket kit that includes the head gaskets? Anyone?
Machine shop head total rebuild cost $364.38
Thanks

 

[Summajet]

Trying to complete parts list. I spoke to machine shop and they use the fel pro head bolts and fel pro gaskets.

Anyone have a recommendation for a torque angle indicator?

 

[Summajet]

Anyone have suggestion on proper way to clean the block surface that the heads bolt onto and gasket surfaces? Had seen some use a paper disc but am concerned with damaging the block surface.

 

[live2pull]

Anyone have suggestion on proper way to clean the block surface that the heads bolt onto and gasket surfaces? Had seen some use a paper disc but am concerned with damaging the block surface.

Light steel wool and oil?

 

[Rocket Man]

G

Anyone have suggestion on proper way to clean the block surface that the heads bolt onto and gasket surfaces? Had seen some use a paper disc but am concerned with damaging the block surface.

Gasket scraper is what I use followed by scotchbrite and alcohol. https://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/i/spin/10159174/prod_20045002912?hei=500&wid=500

 

[Summajet]

Light steel wool and oil?

I am considering removing the motor from truck. Besides removing transmission bolts and three flywheel bolts is
it hard install engine back and align transmission??. I would have a helper working the lift.

stand and reassemble. Seems easier to assemble and sure everything is clean and timing cover and oil pan seal right.

 

[wjburken]

I used a rag, a lot of carburetor cleaner as well as a lot of elbow grease to clean the block and careful use of a gasket scraper. I would shy away from steel wool as I would hate to have a small piece of wire shed off and cause issues. I would add a new timing chain tensioner to your list. Not very expensive, but with over 200K, cheap insurance.

As for removing the motor, your basically down to the short block so not a bad idea to pull it. With help, should t be too tough. You can get to your rear main seal that way and check it out/replace it.