Now THATS clean !
2003 Yukon SLT flex fuel 5.3L whats brand would you use? cam, oil pump, lifters, timing chain
- Thread starter Summajet
- Start date
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I am looking for information on what size of tap i need to chase the threads on the middle and bottom head bolts? Also the holes are deeper in the block and had read to use a 12 pt socket and elec tape the tap inside of the 12 pt socket?
Take a head bolt to your local Ace Hardware (or other local hardware store) and they have thread determination tools back by the bolt section. Just find the one that the bolt threads into.
I saw for 36.98 ARP sells a thread chaser. I went to lowes and it looks like a 7/16x20.
I'll call the machine shop tomorrow. Read on corvette LS forum that they said to grove a stock head bolt. I assume they say to grove/grind it same as a thread chaser?
I'll call the machine shop tomorrow. Read on corvette LS forum that they said to grove a stock head bolt. I assume they say to grove/grind it same as a thread chaser?
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Metric, pretty sure its M11 x 2.0 mm. Check Summit Racing.
I’m with James, I’m sure it’s metric. And don’t assume anything, research it. Also, instead of a Corvette forum you should be on something like www.performancetrucks.net or www.ls1howto.com.
Update, taking block to machine shop this evening. My heads are being picked up today.
Crank is removed and pistons. I am getting new cam shaft bearings installed, quoted $60.
Ask them to clean block and hone cylinders while it is there. They are inspecting the rocker arms and push rods.
Is there a way to check the pistons/ wrist pins and connecting rods?
I researched on most reman motors except gm they reuse the pistons and connecting rods. I have read it is best to keep stock pistons/connecting rods and replace the rings?
Any thoughts? I'm not modifying the stock flex motor.
Crank is removed and pistons. I am getting new cam shaft bearings installed, quoted $60.
Ask them to clean block and hone cylinders while it is there. They are inspecting the rocker arms and push rods.
Is there a way to check the pistons/ wrist pins and connecting rods?
I researched on most reman motors except gm they reuse the pistons and connecting rods. I have read it is best to keep stock pistons/connecting rods and replace the rings?
Any thoughts? I'm not modifying the stock flex motor.
Update, Both heads rebuilt and cleaned out the door $384.
Machinist looked at all my parts,
Crankshaft GOOD (clean at home)
Pistons, connecting rods, and wrist pins GOOD (Clean at home)
Machinist recommendations;
Chase thread passages for head bolts
new cam shaft bearings
Hone all 8 cylinders (just to clean up no damage)
Tank dip block (they remove coolant plugs and install new ones)
Replace Oil Bypass tube rear block (it can cause oil pressure loss)
New Crank bearings (stock GM)
New Connecting rod Bearings (stock GM)
New rings for all 8 pistons (Stock GM)
Crankshaft bearings and connecting rod bearings have normal wear of 235,000 miles and no damage from lifter failure.
Friend of mine is going to let me use his Snap-On 1/2" and 3/8" certified torque wrenches to ensure it is set to torque specs.
Machinist said they use the Lucas Engine assembly lube to when reassembling motors and prevents dry starts.
Is there another brand that others prefer to use???
At this point a simple lifter and cam has turned into a complete rebuild. To properly do it right for me the motor had to come out and be on an engine stand.
Machinist looked at all my parts,
Crankshaft GOOD (clean at home)
Pistons, connecting rods, and wrist pins GOOD (Clean at home)
Machinist recommendations;
Chase thread passages for head bolts
new cam shaft bearings
Hone all 8 cylinders (just to clean up no damage)
Tank dip block (they remove coolant plugs and install new ones)
Replace Oil Bypass tube rear block (it can cause oil pressure loss)
New Crank bearings (stock GM)
New Connecting rod Bearings (stock GM)
New rings for all 8 pistons (Stock GM)
Crankshaft bearings and connecting rod bearings have normal wear of 235,000 miles and no damage from lifter failure.
Friend of mine is going to let me use his Snap-On 1/2" and 3/8" certified torque wrenches to ensure it is set to torque specs.
Machinist said they use the Lucas Engine assembly lube to when reassembling motors and prevents dry starts.
Is there another brand that others prefer to use???
At this point a simple lifter and cam has turned into a complete rebuild. To properly do it right for me the motor had to come out and be on an engine stand.
Awesome, it will be done right for sure.
I have watched several you tube videos on installing the motor into the Yukon. I was thinking of installing everything back on the motor, Except for the exhaust manifolds and intake on top. Anyone have any insight as what parts to leave off motor before installing back in Yukon?
Many thanks,,,
Many thanks,,,
SnowDrifter
Full Access Member
Please tell me those aren't scotch brite pad marks I'm looking at. You said that has yet to be honed? Cause those hatch marks look like arse
What's up w/ this cylinder?
Can't comment on what you should install / take off. But uhh... Did the machine shop line bore your cam bearings?
Yes it was the reflection of the camera.
I am going with sealed power std. rings.
Mechanic, a friend of mine is letting me borrow both 3/8" and 1/2" calibrated snap on torque wrenches when I start reassemble.
I also read the importance of keeping foreign matter off the surfaces and using latex gloves, and lint free rags.
I am going with sealed power std. rings.
Mechanic, a friend of mine is letting me borrow both 3/8" and 1/2" calibrated snap on torque wrenches when I start reassemble.
I also read the importance of keeping foreign matter off the surfaces and using latex gloves, and lint free rags.
I am hoping block will be ready end of next week. While I am waiting i decided to fix the axle seal for the 4wd on the passengers side. It has been like that since we got it in June of 2015. The driver side was not leaking but it would in time. i got both axle seals installed and the anaerobic gasket maker. Got both mating surfaces cleaned then the gasket sealer. I am guessing i saved at least $450 for axle seal repair. The best part will be not having grease slung everywhere on the underside wells from the leaking axle. I am looking forward to getting the motor rebuilt and installed.
