2003 Yukon SLT flex fuel 5.3L whats brand would you use? cam, oil pump, lifters, timing chain

[retiredsparky]

You might want to consider inspecting and/or replacing the knock sensors and harness while the engine is out. Because the sensors sit in a recess on top of the motor, water often damages the connections over time.

 

[Summajet]

You might want to consider inspecting and/or replacing the knock sensors and harness while the engine is out. Because the sensors sit in a recess on top of the motor, water often damages the connections over time.

I am replacing both knock sensors and the wire harness and also the oil seals for the knock sensor/valley pan cover.

 

[Rocket Man]

I am replacing both knock sensors and the wire harness and also the oil seals for the knock sensor/valley pan cover.

Make sure to use ACDelco knock sensors as some of the aftermarket ones , especially Dorman, are known to fail shortly after you get the engine all buttoned up.

 

[Summajet]

Yes I got the AC Delco knock sensors and AC Delco wire harness cause sometimes the electrical part aftermarket don't work that well.

 

[Rocket Man]

Yes I got the AC Delco knock sensors and AC Delco wire harness cause sometimes the electrical part aftermarket don't work that well.

For me, if it’s hard to replace it gets OEM or better. There’s a few small items I’ll get aftermarket but not much.

 

[Summajet]

I agree since the knock sensors and elec. harness are under the intake.

 

[Summajet]

Update waiting to get block back from machine shop. Hopefully this week.

 

[Summajet]

I got my block back from the machine shop. Cylinders cleaned up, tank cleaned, and new cam shaft bearings. Even though the machine shop does a great job. I am still going to clean all the oil passages, and make sure the head bolt passages/threads as clean as well as other threaded passages. I have to order some more parts like the oil gasket, head gaskets. I know gm parts are getting harder to get from the warehouse. Any preference on the head gasket brand, GM or felpro?

 

[iamdub]

I got my block back from the machine shop. Cylinders cleaned up, tank cleaned, and new cam shaft bearings. Even though the machine shop does a great job. I am still going to clean all the oil passages, and make sure the head bolt passages/threads as clean as well as other threaded passages. I have to order some more parts like the oil gasket, head gaskets. I know gm parts are getting harder to get from the warehouse. Any preference on the head gasket brand, GM or felpro?

There's no such thing as TOO clean with an engine! ACDelco and Fel-Pro are both fine decisions for head gaskets. Unless the price difference was significant or the alternative wasn't as reputable, I'd pick ACDelco.

 

[Summajet]

I got the felpro gasket kit on rock auto. I got the cranked cleaned yesterday. I chased all the oil passages with a brush. I do have some thin dry oil sheen where the two rod bearings were located side by side. Thinking a fine emory cloth to remove the sheen and not damage the crank bearing surface. I saw the arp thread chaser is used for the head block threads. M11x2.0 I think it is. Does anyone on here have one I can pay them to rent and once returned I get the deposit back?
Thanks,

 

[iamdub]

Have a grinder and cut-off disc? You can make more thread chasers than you'll ever need using the old bolts.

Use the cut-off disc to make a slot or two:

Or, if you have a flap disc, you could just grind some simple flats into it:

Or, if you don't have a grinder, use a hacksaw to make a couple thin slots (I'd invest even in a HF grinder before doing it this way):

Have an air compressor? I like to use a blow gun with a 12" needle tip to blow out the threads starting from the bottom. Squirt a little brake cleaner in the hole, brush it with a thin nylon bottle brush, then blow it out. Wear side-shielded safety glasses!

 

[Summajet]

I was able to get threads cleaned out. I got blocked cleaned. I set the main bearings in the crank underside and top caps on. Will check clearances this week on crank bearings. Then ring gaps and connecting rod bearings. It feels to be making progress. I am not rushing and taking my time to get it back together

 

[Summajet]

Progress update,

note I was going to use a torque angle gauge dial. I was reading through the steps and my Wife asked what tools would make the rebuild easier. A friend of mine is a mechanic by trade. He hooked me up with a deal on two snap-on tech digital angle torque wrenches, 3/8" and a 1/2".

Crank bearing clearances within spec
rod bearing clearances within spec
piston Ring gaps within spec

installed camshaft FIRST
installed crank, main bearing caps
installed piston rings and ring gaps set apart
installed pistons,
installed connecting rod bearings/caps
installed camshaft thrust plate/cover
installed timing chain and camshaft sprocket
installed gm oil bypass galley tube

I used assembly lube for all the bearings, behind the thrust cover/plate and behind the camshaft sprocket face.
The ring pistons gap was easier to check using the feeler gauge. I kept my work area organized and cleaned. I also laid out all the top and 2nd rings onto a table with a drawn paper sketch of the block looking forward. I then assembled the oil ring, then top oil ring and bottom oil ring. Next the 2nd compression ring and then the top compression ring.

This weekend I am moving onto installing the
crankshaft position sensor.
oil pump (new gm orange o-ring) and prime oil pump
oil deflector tray
oil pickup tube
rear cover of block level (within spec per book)
front cover of block (level within spec per book)
install oil pan.

It can be overwhelming but taking your time and staying organized.

I am using the Haynes Manual and the how to rebuild GM LS-Engines by Chris Werner. The rebuild book has the steps, pictures and torque yields/angles required.

 

[iamdub]

I'm thrifty, so I drew lines and dots on the TTY bolts. For the crank pulley, I torqued the bolt, then used a protractor to put a mark on the bolt head and at the proper degrees of additional rotation. I marked each bolt hole of the cylinder heads as well. Torqued the bolts to the initial lb-ft (or is it lb-ft?), marked the bolt heads where they lined up with the first mark on the edge of the bolt holes, then turned them until they lined up with the second mark.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

I'm thrifty, so I drew lines and dots on the TTY bolts. For the crank pulley, I torqued the bolt, then used a protractor to put a mark on the bolt head and at the proper degrees of additional rotation. I marked each bolt hole of the cylinder heads as well. Torqued the bolts to the initial lb-ft (or is it lb-ft?), marked the bolt heads where they lined up with the first mark on the edge of the bolt holes, then turned them until they lined up with the second mark.

"Thrifty" Lol.

1. Guy who clocks in, chows some eggs and bacon, figures out what to do all day, does it, clocks out, gets paid (I am NOT jealous ).

2. And the "Perfect Tagline" award goes to.....

3. Why don't you just clock in, throw some Nutria on the grill, Amazon a bit, clock out, buy an angle gauge, and save yourself all that thinking [and stealing your daughter's protractor (and having to remember to put it back)]?

 

[iamdub]

"Thrifty" Lol.

1. Guy who clocks in, chows some eggs and bacon, figures out what to do all day, does it, clocks out, gets paid (I am NOT jealous ).

2. And the "Perfect Tagline" award goes to.....

3. Why don't you just clock in, throw some Nutria on the grill, Amazon a bit, clock out, buy an angle gauge, and save yourself all that thinking [and stealing your daughter's protractor (and having to remember to put it back)]?

Hey, it's MY protractor! It's flexible and clear with some physical therapy clinic's logo on it, intended to measure a joint's range of motion. Pretty sure it was left here by my ex. (PTA) Anyway, it's very ideal for this purpose.

The angle gauge gets in the way cuz I put the heads on after I bolt the block in the bay. This way, I can easily get to the top four bellhousing bolts. Sometimes, there is a method to my madness.

 

[Summajet]

Some headway made this weekend,
crankshaft position sensor
oil pump
oil deflector
oil pickup tube
front timing cover

I Hope to have time to work on it this week and get the rear cover, oil pan installed so at least the bottom end will be done.

 

[iamdub]

Some headway made this weekend,
crankshaft position sensor
oil pump
oil deflector
oil pickup tube
front timing cover

I Hope to have time to work on it this week and get the rear cover, oil pan installed so at least the bottom end will be done.

Oil deflector?

 

[Summajet]

Yes

 

[iamdub]

Yes

Lol
I meant that to ask "why". But I just looked it up and I think I see what you were referring to. It looks like the official GM name for that which is commonly known as a "windage tray" is "deflector". I thought you got the deflector for the AFM pressure release solenoid, which, of course, your Gen3 doesn't have.