2/3 drop while retaining autoride?

[Doug118]

I know everyone wants to delete their blown out autoride but my Escalade rides beautiful so I’d love to retain all of its components. Has anyone done this without issues? Plan is drop spindles up front and a 3” spring in the rear with shock extensions

Here’s a random picture of a build I just did, because why not

 

[iamdub]

I know everyone wants to delete their blown out autoride but my Escalade rides beautiful so I’d love to retain all of its components. Has anyone done this without issues? Plan is drop spindles up front and a 3” spring in the rear with shock extensions

Autoride isn't much of a problem, it's the Auto Level Control that can go bonkers when you lower. But, simply put, if it doesn't know the axle isn't in the original position, then it won't try to change anything.

Before you do anything, accurately mark the positions of all four sensors. Remove the two fuses for the ALC. After lowering and driving around for a while to get everything settled, make shorter links that realign the marks you made. Be as accurate as possible. I used a silver Sharpie to draw a line then used a razor blade to scratch a fine line through the center of that silver line so I'd have a really fine point of reference. Reinstall the fuses to re-enable the ALC and test.

As for Autoride, a 3" drop with 2" extenders means the shock will only "see" a loss of 1" of travel. This is nothing worth modifying for.

A rear drop does affect the front regardless of the spindles. This is why I suggested to mark and adjust all four sensors. You won't have much to adjust in the front, if any. It'll be such a small amount that you can shorten the distance by just bending the link to put a kink in it. No need to replace it with a shorter link.

If all the sensors are in their original positions, then the Autoride won't be trying to erroneously adjust the shock valving and the ALC won't be trying to lift the rear to make up for the 3" "sag".


This is my post showing the shorter link (made from 10-24 all thread rod) and realigned sensor: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1413884

 

[Doug118]

Back to this. I couldn’t get the ends off of the stock links to change the center rod. When I spun the ends, they just made a click sound and didn’t want to come off. I was afraid to break them so I didn’t mess with them any more

 

[iamdub]

Back to this. I couldn’t get the ends off of the stock links to change the center rod. When I spun the ends, they just made a click sound and didn’t want to come off. I was afraid to break them so I didn’t mess with them any more

I think there are two types- some with the ends pressed on and some that are glued on. Mine were pressed on. The metal rod has splines and the plastic ends fit tightly on that. I clamped the rod in a vise, closed a crescent wrench on the rod above the end then hit the crescent wrench with a hammer to knock the end off. If yours clicked when you turned it, it's probably the same as mine and that was the splines popping. Just a guess, though. The 10-24 all thread rod will screw into the end tightly enough to cut its own threads.


I just thought of something that'd be really easy if you can weld: Cut the rod in half and put the two halves parallel to each other until the marks on the sensor are aligned. Tack it together with a couple of tacks. You shouldn't ever need to adjust it. If you do need to change it, a quick buzz with the death disc to cut your tacks will do it.

 

[Doug118]

I think there are two types- some with the ends pressed on and some that are glued on. Mine were pressed on. The metal rod has splines and the plastic ends fit tightly on that. I clamped the rod in a vise, closed a crescent wrench on the rod above the end then hit the crescent wrench with a hammer to knock the end off. If yours clicked when you turned it, it's probably the same as mine and that was the splines popping. Just a guess, though. The 10-24 all thread rod will screw into the end tightly enough to cut its own threads.


I just thought of something that'd be really easy if you can weld: Cut the rod in half and put the two halves parallel to each other until the marks on the sensor are aligned. Tack it together with a couple of tacks. You shouldn't ever need to adjust it. If you do need to change it, a quick buzz with the death disc to cut your tacks will do it.

The Belltech kit I bought came with the right size threaded links for the drop. Guess I’ll try messing with them this weekend when I do the front

 

[Doug118]

Ended up taking the lowering springs out. They rode like hot garbage. Spring rate is wayyyy too soft. Before someone mentions they’re upside down, I know they are but the bottom 5 coils shouldn’t be touching each other and flipping the spring wouldnt change anything

 

[91RS]

Ended up taking the lowering springs out. They rode like hot garbage. Spring rate is wayyyy too soft. Before someone mentions they’re upside down, I know they are but the bottom 5 coils shouldn’t be touching each other and flipping the spring wouldnt change anything

I think you’re finally the first person that agrees with me about those springs. Get the MaxTrac rear 4” springs if you’re using the spacer under the Belltech spring. The spring rate agrees with the auto ride much better. I went thorough a lot of springs before I found these. You also need to use either DJM or McGaughy’s rear shock extenders, they drop the shock down the most and with the 4” spring, the shock length is within 1” of factory so they will have factory travel and it won’t blow your airbags if the shocks have some age on them. The Belltech “extenders” do not actually drop the shock down at all, they just make it more vertical.

2007-2014 Cadillac Escalade 2wd/4wd 4" Rear Lowering Coils - MaxTrac 271240

MaxTrac Suspension Store Lowering Kits, Lift Kits & Leveling Kits

maxtracstore.com

 

[Doug118]

I think you’re finally the first person that agrees with me about those springs. Get the MaxTrac rear 4” springs if you’re using the spacer under the Belltech spring. The spring rate agrees with the auto ride much better. I went thorough a lot of springs before I found these. You also need to use either DJM or McGaughy’s rear shock extenders, they drop the shock down the most and with the 4” spring, the shock length is within 1” of factory so they will have factory travel and it won’t blow your airbags if the shocks have some age on them. The Belltech “extenders” do not actually drop the shock down at all, they just make it more vertical.

2007-2014 Cadillac Escalade 2wd/4wd 4" Rear Lowering Coils - MaxTrac 271240

MaxTrac Suspension Store Lowering Kits, Lift Kits & Leveling Kits

maxtracstore.com

These springs are by far the worst lowering product I’ve ever installed. I could compress the spring with my fingers. I also didn’t notice the shock extenders being completely different until I looked at my suburban. And of course the DJM ones are sold out everywhere

 

[91RS]

The McGaughys extenders are exactly the same as DJM, they’re just powder coated a different color.

 

[Doug118]

The McGaughys extenders are exactly the same as DJM, they’re just powder coated a different color.

Yeah I saw them after I replied. I’m probably going to leave the suspension stock. I really don’t want to go down a rabbit hole of piecing together a lowering setup from all different places again. Pictures are with and without the rear springs