14 bolt rear end swap?

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Paul_Kaos

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Right now tho we are going to temporarily ghetto a h2 axle into the back with adapters at three places tho lol

Baby steps
 

Paul_Kaos

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The locker is 100% locked, will absolutely destroy your yard if you leave it on and try to turn while going through grass. And will slide like a 240sx drift car in the rain. But also extremely effective offroad. Haven’t really torture tested it because my k2500 only has 250ish hp and a 4l80 but it’s a great offroad option for sure.

I actually bought an Eaton e locker button and wiring harness for mine. It was not cheap like $200 iirc but the switch is nice, the harness is well made, and I don’t like cobbling wiring together if I can buy something ready to go.
Where do you suggest I start a fresh topic for this?

Usually I just search google and reply to relevant topics.

Over the next... Month? Two maybe? I will be doing the rear axle with a universal adapter, connected to h2 springs and a complete set of spohn type cheap rear arms, with rancho adjustables, and the front is getting new arms with ksp uppers and ksp steering parts plus ranchos and a rancho steering stabilizer.

Like all of that is sitting here so all of that is going on together, itll *sit* right, but it wont be done at all.

Then the next project will literally be buying another set of ksp uppers, the HD ball-joints, and uniballs, unless KSP gets back to me about them just making them for us out of the box... That would be easy...then mine would probably be free as a tester... Anywho those arms plus some hd knuckles with 2wd 2500 wheel hubs bolted in for now and away we go because my KSP steering stuff is already HD ends and you drill the knuckles lol. Literally its already adapting hd to non-hd parts there, why Im hoping KSP will get it lol...

Anywho, then I just take off the rear adapters and bolt on a set of 4 1.5-2" 8lug spacers with the H2 wheels and 35"s and away I go. Ive already norcal'd both spots on both back wheel openings they measure 36.5" now, i gotta do the front but I cant till the back goes together because its gotta hit pay& spray...

So the back will get done and then it will go to the wash all reverse squat joe dirt looking so I can get the front ready for norcal/epoxy and rust proofing/line-x like the back already got...

Im plodding on it basically

Gotta start somewhere

Itll be kinda weird till I get the wheels and the front arms but Im okay with that.

Itll look goofy on 33"s with an H2 "extreme leveling kit" too imho. Its a lift for 35s. The h2 has 37"s but I gotta cut more and Ill hold off for the long travel and some fenders lol
 

Paul_Kaos

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Sorry I just blast out a bunch of posts with related thoughts in a row, but this is when I can look at this and yall wanted info

Ill say almost nothing, just asking for info, and then people will complain so I do this and people also complain...

Im not here to amuse anyone idk what the culture is

I just wanna build a truck

Which one of these threads had the universal adapter info in it I gotta read it from the top to find it I guess?
 

Dantheman1540

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Where do you suggest I start a fresh topic for this?

This will be a cool build worth adding to the archives of the internet. So make your own build thread talking about how your truck sits now, the future goal, and then document the process and ask questions as you go so people interested can jump in and help. Or so someone else wanting to know this information can find this page when googling.

There’s a lot of great builds in here I think my personal Tahoe build has a few hundred pages by now. I need to update it but all the good bits are in there.
 

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Paul_Kaos

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This will be a cool build worth adding to the archives of the internet. So make your own build thread talking about how your truck sits now, the future goal, and then document the process and ask questions as you go so people interested can jump in and help. Or so someone else wanting to know this information can find this page when googling.

There’s a lot of great builds in here I think my personal Tahoe build has a few hundred pages by now. I need to update it but all the good bits are in there.
That sounds like me doing a ton of extra work for entertainment

I asked for two part numbers

I searched

I commented on related threads

Im going to make a new thread that is a part number request with no pictures and when someone says "search" Ill direct them here

********...
 

Paul_Kaos

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Sissy froo froo world where GD is a "gwoen up woad we don use in skew"

Sissy baby world with no adult spaces
 

Dantheman1540

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That sounds like me doing a ton of extra work for entertainment

I asked for two part numbers

I searched

I commented on related threads

Im going to make a new thread that is a part number request with no pictures and when someone says "search" Ill direct them here

********...
Here’s so answers to your questions despite you offering nothing back to the community other than harsh words. I found all this information just searching the below thread.

Here the conversion joint I used originally, the one that exploded first serious clutch dump I did.
It’s 3r-1350 and greasable, don’t see non-greasable options still.
5U211-Neapco

Also here’s a picture of the 2011 Escalade 9.5sf AXN axle when I received it and it has two separate lines no merger block. But since my Tahoe had a single line originally I went with a merger block and haven’t had any issues since. So to answer your second question about the brake lines just use your original hard lines from the 10b and you should be fine.


Lastly is a picture of the 1350 yoke that died when the u joint did, next to the 1410 beefy yoke. I’d seriously consider upgrading but that’s up to you.
 

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Paul_Kaos

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Im changing the trans and tcase to something that never came in this wheel base next year lol?

With a zf6 and a bw4484 in a tahoe wheelbase the driveshaft will probably end up as a 3ft segment of my old 3rivers with a fancy slip joint and custom ends, capiche?

Sorry i dont have $100k in escrow to reengineer the entire truck today.

Im a grown ass man Ive built plenty of stuff slow&steady cobbling along until it gets there

Like I said: I NEED THE GD TRUCK AND TRASH AXLE DIED SO NOW IS TIME FOR 14BOLT PURCHASE

I WILL IMPROVE HOW THE WHOLE TRUCK IS SITUATED AS THINGS PROGRESS

SADLY A DIFF DOESN'T GIVE YOU A WARNING IT JUST... GOES... SO I DO NOT HAVE 3/4 OF AN H2 AND SOME 3500 DUALLY AND A LITTLE CUSTOM CHINESIUM JUST HORDED IN MY GARAGE...

Hell I just *returned* about $400 in quality parts that are no longer relevant because of the immediate redirection to the future instead of playing with the stock junk

Essentially the Lord spoke and he said "if you are ever going to have your 8lug h2 tahoe you have to start down that path today"

So be it

Pita timing wise but thats how things go...
 

Paul_Kaos

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"clutch dump" sir the gd adapter wont ever be in there with a manual, we will have a race to see if it or the 4l60 break first at this point the diff just went...

Edit: thank you for the information I needed
 
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Paul_Kaos

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You meantion neapco and yours blowing up, was spicer offering the same part back then?

Both brands make them, Im prone to believe spicer (a brand i know and have only heard good things about) is gonna be better than neapco.

Awesone sauce though, $70-130 aint bad.

Im going to put eyes on the brake line situation today

I wish I didnt live in an extra special hell or else Id go look under an h2 live as well and remove all doubt

I did find a place making 8x6.5→6x5.5" wheel adaptors that dont inspire... A lot more fear than that universal joint lol... But theyre literally just shy of a thousand... For something Im going to take off in 6mo and try to sell lol? Ugh?

All the logic is telling me Im gonna have to run mix matched wheels for a minute which isnt fun but what the hell...

Some guy on amazon said he scanned the cheapo two-piece adapters and cnc'd them from stainless, then says to email him he will sell them for the chinesium alu price, but like a boomer doesn't drop an email and thinks we can contact him by looking it up via amazon?

I already tried, and my girl tried all day too...

Anyone heard of the guy lol?

Totally random, but its my last chance at matching wheels because literally nobody is spending a grand on wheel adapters lol. Theres no hub situation you couldnt figure out more maturely in that budget lol.

The taco-bell squatted truck kids arent out here dropping a thousand bucks on wheel adaptors.

Ill find the amazon comment and link it, if for nothing more than amusement lol

Looks like I need a couple wheels tho sooner than later.

If I can get the axle guys to stick some on before they crate it... Could make loading and unloading it in a box truck easier lol?

Im thinking out loud. Sorry Ive been an *******

Thanks
 

Paul_Kaos

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By special hell I mean if you roll under one at a used lot theyll think youre a Jawa (tweeker mexican) trying to part it out on the spot lol

No open diy junkyards local either... Similar issues with the Jawa
 

Paul_Kaos

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Here’s so answers to your questions despite you offering nothing back to the community other than harsh words. I found all this information just searching the below thread.

Here the conversion joint I used originally, the one that exploded first serious clutch dump I did.
It’s 3r-1350 and greasable, don’t see non-greasable options still.
5U211-Neapco

Also here’s a picture of the 2011 Escalade 9.5sf AXN axle when I received it and it has two separate lines no merger block. But since my Tahoe had a single line originally I went with a merger block and haven’t had any issues since. So to answer your second question about the brake lines just use your original hard lines from the 10b and you should be fine.


Lastly is a picture of the 1350 yoke that died when the u joint did, next to the 1410 beefy yoke. I’d seriously consider upgrading but that’s up to you.
Hey I see you have a straight panard with a finned diff cover... This fits? Will that diff cover fit over h2 locker? Where do i get it I know getting that stuff to clear is *tight*

Are we grinding fins down?

Im using the h2 swaybar and fastening it with literally jeep (jk? Double balljoint ends) detachable links from fleabay lol.

Im developing front detachable links using the same things and lots of custom enormous stainless hardware lol...

Some day I hope to adapt the loathed electronic jeep swaybars for front and back with, again, manual controls pirated to my home-brew touch screen relay controller...

You can easily see the logic cooking here... Maximum oem cool stuff coopted to work with diy controllers... I strongly considered a qsteer axle but the dana 60 is just weirder to find parts for and none come with 4link factory...

What will instead happen is the qsteer parts and aftermarket "qsteer commander" crabwalk box or whatever will end up controlling the back of a quad motor H1 toy thing Ive been dreaming up in parallel...

I guess my kink is almost "humvee stuff where it shouldn't be"

Mudmaro is honestly the inspiration for that second idea lol
 

Dantheman1540

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Hey I see you have a straight panard with a finned diff cover... This fits? Will that diff cover fit over h2 locker? Where do i get it I know getting that stuff to clear is *tight*

Are we grinding fins down?

Im using the h2 swaybar and fastening it with literally jeep (jk? Double balljoint ends) detachable links from fleabay lol.

Im developing front detachable links using the same things and lots of custom enormous stainless hardware lol...

Some day I hope to adapt the loathed electronic jeep swaybars for front and back with, again, manual controls pirated to my home-brew touch screen relay controller...

You can easily see the logic cooking here... Maximum oem cool stuff coopted to work with diy controllers... I strongly considered a qsteer axle but the dana 60 is just weirder to find parts for and none come with 4link factory...

What will instead happen is the qsteer parts and aftermarket "qsteer commander" crabwalk box or whatever will end up controlling the back of a quad motor H1 toy thing Ive been dreaming up in parallel...

I guess my kink is almost "humvee stuff where it shouldn't be"

Mudmaro is honestly the inspiration for that second idea lol

My panhard has a small bend in it, and I did a ton of research on different covers and this is the only one that would fit. The clearance is so tight the thick powder coat on both the panhard and cover make the clearance almost non existent.

More good info around here
 

Paul_Kaos

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Okay thanks, that's the... Pmw or something like that rear cover? I dont even see any available on amazon... I can add it later its not going to melt down mostly locked all the time, with synthetic fluid and moly in it lol...

But Ill revisit this

Fwiw my knock off panhard has a joint there that makes it thinner... It might clear...

If not, well I was gonna paint the cover gold and machine tge ribs anyway so... How thick is it?

But thats fancy longbterm ish anyway

I got the axle ordered, as well as the universal direct from Spicer on a amazon, as well as a ton more black 2k caliper paint for all these parts lol...

Fwiw i found the 343mm 8lug rotors we *both* need to run the 2021 front 4pistons all around bro...

Gmt800 era SAFARI VAN 3500 DUALLY REAR ROTORS... Booom

Get Centric Black-Hat blanks, iirc the k2xx trucks 2500s have 8lug 343mm front rotors out the box

So... For mega brakes on h2-ified trucks, you run say 2021 2500-3500 front 343mm rotors with 2021 1500 4-piston calipers and whatever spacers or grinding up front, then in the back its the GMT80O era SAFARI 3500 dually rear rotor specifically, with the same 2021 *front* 4piston...


Run powerstop topcop pads all around now that its all front calipers... Centric blanks... Stainless lines... High temp fluid and a hydroboost off a truck with hydroboost and boom... Track star braking on a 6klb vehicle lol
 

Paul_Kaos

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*that* is the biggest brakes you can fit under 17"s lol

Itll be h2 wheels with 2" spacers

The spacers are fine on single wheel 2500 parts theyre made to support dually spacers loool... I dont *think* that will need any caliper grinding, I should just be able to paint the calipers and slap some decals on the name plate area...
 

Paul_Kaos

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Here is the less than typical 3R 1pc steel propshaft

Do we know if this is an 00-02 RWD Tahoe item or an aftermarket 3R my uncle sourced?

3R does both

Thats not a GM sticker at all its just a 3R sticker...

Its kinda nice... It was a nice silver color originally... More stuff that feels non-oem to me?
1000002933.jpg



Is the h2 driveshaft steel? How much can we shorten one?

What should I look for as a donor for a front driveshaft to modify with a huge manual trans and a fairly big tcase?
 
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Paul_Kaos

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Im both working out logistics for actually getting the h2 axle under it, and dreaming about the rest of the upgrades that go with later at the same time...
 

Paul_Kaos

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Alright so the h2 has a brake line up each frame rail and then individual flex lines at each wheel rather than an old timey pickup truck drum brake style setup like the tahoe...

I bet the h2 has wheel to wheel torque vectoring abs and thats why they were cool with open or locked diffs...

Makes you wonder about bodging over the entire abs system from the h2 eventually...

So Im guessing what you're saying now is just to take long stainless flex lines from a splitter at the chassis side and run them to the calipers?

Can you link me to what you used? These are significantly different... Bending the 10b hardlines to the 14b calipers seems janky and may not work at all anyway because h2 has front calipers in the back... One of the benefits is quad front brake fitment imho
 

Paul_Kaos

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1000003206.png

Lol yes PML i found these today but cant locate one, how much did your cost?

Was gonna do a gold/machined diff cover to match what Im doing on the engine anyway, lol

With a hope and a prayer the ring gear ridge on the cover will line up with the scooped in area where I have adjustment hardware on a cheap panhard...
 

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