07 denali oil pan gasket,pickup o-ring

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ny_summit

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Going to be replace the oil pan gasket as it's leaking, and the pick up tube o-ring. Should I go OEM gasket and o-ring? Is there a better aftermarket choice?
I've also read that vehicles without dod/afm can plug the pressure relief valve. Should I plug it? I want to make sure I get what needs to be done at the same time. Thank you!
 

wjburken

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Going to be replace the oil pan gasket as it's leaking, and the pick up tube o-ring. Should I go OEM gasket and o-ring? Is there a better aftermarket choice?
I've also read that vehicles without dod/afm can plug the pressure relief valve. Should I plug it? I want to make sure I get what needs to be done at the same time. Thank you!
OEM lasted you 16/17 years.
 
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ny_summit

ny_summit

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I used a felpro gasket and o-ring on mine. No adverse issues. Never did more than clean out the pan and reassemble. If you are dealing with low oil pressure, do the valley gaskets as well
Thank you. My cold pressure and cruising pressure seems ok. Hot idle does get sort of low. I plan on doing the valley gaskets but want to get the oil pan done first since it's leaking.
 

Foggy

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Gm or FelPro will both work well.. Whatever is easiest for you to buy...
Just don't buy either from a 3rd party seller as there are lots of fake parts
out there...
Good Luck !!
 

donjetman

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Going to be replace the oil pan gasket as it's leaking, and the pick up tube o-ring. Should I go OEM gasket and o-ring? Is there a better aftermarket choice?
I've also read that vehicles without dod/afm can plug the pressure relief valve. Should I plug it? I want to make sure I get what needs to be done at the same time. Thank you!
You made this same post last May?
Here's what I did 5+ yrs ago and it's still going strong and dry 64k miles later:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/engine-oil-pan-gasket-change-6-2-yukon-l92.108487/
 
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ny_summit

ny_summit

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You made this same post last May?
Here's what I did 5+ yrs ago and it's still going strong and dry 64k miles later:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/engine-oil-pan-gasket-change-6-2-yukon-l92.108487/
Looks like I have, it wasent leaking too bad at the time and it's gotten worse. So need to get it done now and just want to be prepared. For the sheild on the pressure relief valve do I need it if my vehicle does not have afm? Or install it anyways? I've seen some post where people just plug it if you do not have afm so trying to decide what to do.
 

2006Tahoe2WD

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Major Success - O-ring Replaced
I'm so pleased that I almost started a new thread.
I had the O-ring replaced and my oil pressure went way up (25 to 40) at cold idle and cold higher rpm (25-55+). The hot pressure is also up with 2000 rpm at about 50.

I'm including pictures of the O-ring. I observe the rectangular cross-section people talk about. It is supposed to be round. Also, I see one side is flatter than the other indicating the O-ring might have been pushed laterally when installed by the factory. Could be because of the hole locations on the pickup tube.
The Melling extra bracket did not fit because the pickup tube flange was partly over the bolt hole. So watch for that if you go that direction.

O-ring-narrow-mark.jpg
O-ring-wide mark.jpg
 

j91z28d1

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is it still soft and rubbery? or hard like it's going to crack when you bend it?


did you see a hot idle increase in pressure?
 

2006Tahoe2WD

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is it still soft and rubbery? or hard like it's going to crack when you bend it?


did you see a hot idle increase in pressure?
The old O-ring bends fairly easily but I haven't bent it vary far. I don't want to break it now. When pushing in on it, it seems hard. The hot idle is higher but not by much, maybe 5 psi.
 

j91z28d1

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The old O-ring bends fairly easily but I haven't bent it vary far. I don't want to break it now. When pushing in on it, it seems hard. The hot idle is higher but not by much, maybe 5 psi.


thanks. I'm always curious about these o rings.
 

2006Tahoe2WD

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thanks. I'm always curious about these o rings.
The pickup tube O-ring is definitely an issue. There are countless YouTube videos and forum posts that mention this. I bet I've seen/read at least half of them. :) One of the symptoms is low cold idle pressure that improves (gets higher) as the engine heats up. This is exactly what I had. I also overfilled the oil a bit and went down a steep hill and started braking and the pressure went up. This is a test mentioned to confirm the O-ring issue. You can also lift the rear up 2-3 feet and get the same effect.
 

j91z28d1

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The pickup tube O-ring is definitely an issue. There are countless YouTube videos and forum posts that mention this. I bet I've seen/read at least half of them. :) One of the symptoms is low cold idle pressure that improves (gets higher) as the engine heats up. This is exactly what I had. I also overfilled the oil a bit and went down a steep hill and started braking and the pressure went up. This is a test mentioned to confirm the O-ring issue. You can also lift the rear up 2-3 feet and get the same effect.


oh yeah. I believe it. it's just very weird to me how random it is. how one truck can go 100k and another go 250k on the same part. wish I knew the maintenance history. maybe some oil type or spec eats whatever the rubber is?

it's cool you did the add oil and done hill test. I do feel that's the proper way but so few actually do it. they seem more happy to pull half the front of the truck apart to change an o ring and then wonder why it's still got low pressure.

I'm at 165k and just wondering when or if it's going to happen to mine. the only experience I have with one is my ls3 car. over 100k, seen well over 300deg oil Temps, which I bet these trucks have never seen.. hard track day use, me being dumb and over heating it well into the 260 range. ecm went into full lock down mode. I thought forsure I'd be doing head gaskets. but while in there checking bearings which looked perfect amazingly, I replaced the o ring with one from the gm dealer that showed for my car. it was blue like the one that came out. the one that came out wasn't perfectly round but was very flexible and showed no signs of failing or getting brittle to me. looked perfect to me. had these not been a common problem, I wouldn't even have replaced it.

I've changed probably a 100 different kind of o rings on all kinds of different industral equipment over the years, I've never seen one, even leaking ones come out looking as bad as some of these pickup tube ones I've seen online where they just crumble into pieces and these are also just the cheap back rubber ones used on all kinda crazy oils and temp ranges.


gm did this funny thing, where the ls is awesome for using all rubber good designed gaskets and o rings, and then they found a why to spec rubber that isn't oil resistant. everything starts leaking anyway as if they still used cork. it kinda blows me away.
 

2006Tahoe2WD

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oh yeah. I believe it. it's just very weird to me how random it is. how one truck can go 100k and another go 250k on the same part. wish I knew the maintenance history. maybe some oil type or spec eats whatever the rubber is?

it's cool you did the add oil and done hill test. I do feel that's the proper way but so few actually do it. they seem more happy to pull half the front of the truck apart to change an o ring and then wonder why it's still got low pressure.

I'm at 165k and just wondering when or if it's going to happen to mine. the only experience I have with one is my ls3 car. over 100k, seen well over 300deg oil Temps, which I bet these trucks have never seen.. hard track day use, me being dumb and over heating it well into the 260 range. ecm went into full lock down mode. I thought forsure I'd be doing head gaskets. but while in there checking bearings which looked perfect amazingly, I replaced the o ring with one from the gm dealer that showed for my car. it was blue like the one that came out. the one that came out wasn't perfectly round but was very flexible and showed no signs of failing or getting brittle to me. looked perfect to me. had these not been a common problem, I wouldn't even have replaced it.

I've changed probably a 100 different kind of o rings on all kinds of different industral equipment over the years, I've never seen one, even leaking ones come out looking as bad as some of these pickup tube ones I've seen online where they just crumble into pieces and these are also just the cheap back rubber ones used on all kinda crazy oils and temp ranges.


gm did this funny thing, where the ls is awesome for using all rubber good designed gaskets and o rings, and then they found a why to spec rubber that isn't oil resistant. everything starts leaking anyway as if they still used cork. it kinda blows me away.
Yes, It could be the order in which the oil tube bolts are installed. If you do the bolt near the O-ring first you might be less likely to "pinch" or "skew" it. This could be why some go 250k miles and others 100k miles. My O-ring looks like it was skewed.

Without some analysis we don't know what the O-ring is made from. Could be Viton but probably not - I don't know what is the best in this case. What ever it is it ended up taking the shape of the void left for it without continuing to push back enough.
 

j91z28d1

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huh I do wonder if they are installed on random sides. that would be interesting.

I will say I've never in my life seen something with a flange like that and only have one bolt from the factory. that was an interesting decision as well.
 

2006Tahoe2WD

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huh I do wonder if they are installed on random sides. that would be interesting.

I will say I've never in my life seen something with a flange like that and only have one bolt from the factory. that was an interesting decision as well.
Maybe not the best but the tube is supported at two other points.
 

rdezs

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Saved yourself an ungodly amount of cash by doing it yourself :)

It's a little late to ask, but did you get the pickup tube girdle that you utilizes both bolt holes on the oil pump? Less than $20, I figure it's worth the additional insurance.
 

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