02 Base for my son

[George B]

Good to see you back.

 

[Snowbound]

Last year I bought a 40” spindle kit because I have a 38” front end on my sled and I wanted just a little wider to help me get thru the turns a little faster without being so tipsy. So I had to remove my skis, spindle and upper arms.

The new kit lowers the upper arm and runs a 5” shorter spindle which is suppose to be better geometry and helps the handling.

After I drilled and bolted on the upper arm mount and installed arm and spindle I noticed I had a lot of positive camber. I set the arm up at simulated ride height and it was pretty bad. I can’t even get full suspension cycle because the upper ball joint binds. It’s like the arm is too long but this kit is for a ‘14-‘15 SR Viper MTX which is what I have. All this time and drilling holes in my bulk head and it can’t work like this. Dam it.

 

[Snowbound]

I also tore the front end off my brothers sled because he had a bad ball joint so he’s changing his arms too but his front end is 42” wide. Just giving him a head start for when he gets up there to do his maintenance.

I also pulled my shocks and sent them out for service and valving change. I should have done it last year but didn’t. I got about 2000 miles on these shocks.

I bought a new set of rear shocks just the other day. Both shocks in the skid will be Fox Float 3 air shocks so I don’t have to run springs. But at least I’ll have rebuilt shocks for the skid sitting on the shelf. Hindsight.

I also replaced the plastic upper steering post mount with a billet block that has a brass bushing. Gonna be a lot tighter and smoother.

The oil tank mounts to the chaincase cover and it’s sealed with RTV. Every time I tear this apart I hate scraping the RTV off and reapplying it and hope it seals. Haven’t had it leak yet but this time I’m using a gasket. Made my own gasket from a roll of 1/8” EPDM rubber. This is gonna be so much nicer.

Of course I cut out a spare because I know my brother is gonna want one too.

 

[Snowbound]

After this season I’m gonna step it up a little bit more with this sled. I have 2061 miles on it so I know it’s good to go and shouldn’t have any issues so I’m gonna throw a turbo on it and bump the horsepower to 230. But I’m gonna need to be able to adjust the fuel and timing maps and keep my eye on the fuel ratio. So I bought a DynoJet Power Commander V and an Autotune. The PCV piggybacks the ECM and allows me to data log and adjust the maps. The Autotune uses a wideband O2 sensor and controls air fuel ratio thru the PCV and I can set what I want the AFR at based on engine RPM and throttle position. It’s a pretty slick setup. Like HPTuners for my sled.

But I couldn’t stop there. C’mon, you know me by now. I got a DynoJet Wideband2 module that will run in conjunction with the PCV and allow me to data log air fuel ratios along with all the other engine sensors. It’s all about tuning with a wideband. The autotune is just so it will adjust to where I want and when but it doesn’t data log the AFR and you can’t run an AFR gauge off the autotune. But I can off the Wideband2 module. And all these modules piggyback each other.

And I don’t want to have to carry my laptop around with me to data log or to adjust maps so I got a DynoJet Pod 300. This allows me to monitor, data log, change maps, and even switch between 2 maps that can be stored on the PCV.

In order to make all this work I need to install 2 wideband sensors but the factory O2 sensor is a little tiny thing so I had to modify the aftermarket SPI exhaust pipe. I cut the factory bung off and welded on 2 new bungs for my Bosch wideband sensors. And then I had to repaint the pipe with high temp flameproof ceramic paint.

 

[Rocket Man]

So much going on. Glad to see you back.

 

[Snowbound]

Back to the escalade, I got tired of not having enough storage space and since I never use this disk changer it’s time to make a pocket from it.

At first I was just gonna use the side brackets and build my own pocket but I decided to see if I could gut the changer and use its frame.

This actually worked out. I broke off those front tabs and bent up the rear tabs but I still had to line it with something so when I put in some fabric it has a solid backing. I found this roll of sticky back insulation.

It actually worked out good. Now I just need to find my roll of black suede headliner material and attach that to this foil faced material.

I’ll get a finished picture up as soon as I can find that material buried in a box somewhere in my garage or basement. Until then, it still works.

 

[Rocket Man]

Back to the escalade, I got tired of not having enough storage space and since I never use this disk changer it’s time to make a pocket from it.
View attachment 354731

At first I was just gonna use the side brackets and build my own pocket but I decided to see if I could gut the changer and use its frame.
View attachment 354733

This actually worked out. I broke off those front tabs and bent up the rear tabs but I still had to line it with something so when I put in some fabric it has a solid backing. I found this roll of sticky back insulation.
View attachment 354734

It actually worked out good. Now I just need to find my roll of black suede headliner material and attach that to this foil faced material.
View attachment 354735

I’ll get a finished picture up as soon as I can find that material buried in a box somewhere in my garage or basement. Until then, it still works.
View attachment 354736

I used a single DIN pocket from Amazon, fits perfect. I used the mounts from the CD changer.

 

[TollKeeper]

I cant believe how hard the stock pockets are to find.

 

[Rocket Man]

I cant believe how hard the stock pockets are to find.

I don’t think GM made pockets for that location?

 

[TollKeeper]

They did... Just hard to come buy..

I believe this is it, but cant swear to it, it lists it for a Sierra/Silvy
URL Removed

Edit: Nope thats not it.. still looking

 

[TollKeeper]

This is the closest thing I can find..

03 04 05 06 Silverado Sierra Tahoe Center Dash Storage Bezel Cubby 15070573 OEM | eBay

No Grade - A part that has not yet been graded. C Grade - The third level quality part. B Grade - The second level quality part. It is of average miles and normal condition for its age. A Grade - The highest quality part.

www.ebay.com

 

[TollKeeper]

For some reason I think this is it.. But again, cant swear to it.

Cassette Player Delete Cubby Pocket For 1999-2002 Silverado Tahoe Sierra | eBay

Compatible with GM Full Size Trucks, SUVs and Vans have Cassette/CD players separate from the factory radios. This pocket will install into the old Cassette/CD player spot, giving you a useful storage area.

www.ebay.com

 

[Tonyrodz]

This is the closest thing I can find..

03 04 05 06 Silverado Sierra Tahoe Center Dash Storage Bezel Cubby 15070573 OEM | eBay

No Grade - A part that has not yet been graded. C Grade - The third level quality part. B Grade - The second level quality part. It is of average miles and normal condition for its age. A Grade - The highest quality part.

www.ebay.com

Can't believe they want $49 for this.

 

[Snowbound]

I’ve been looking for replacement grips for the bike. The Ultra Limited has heated grips and I didn’t want to cut the wires off and have to fish them out but there’s no good replacements for these. You can see how they are worn and they get almost sticky when it’s hot and you’re cruising for a while, even with gloves on.

Found this heat shrink material on Amazon that is used for fishing pole grips. It comes in all different sizes so I ordered 45mm for $8.00.

Perfect fit and I like the look better than factory and I didn’t have to spend $300 on grips. The heated grip still works too so that’s a plus.

 

[Snowbound]

Main thing I wanted to share is this happened last night on my way home from work. Driving 65MPH and I start to hear grinding coming from my right rear wheel area. Turn the radio down to get a better listen and thought, oh crap, that can’t be good. Coming up to an intersection where the light was red I let off the gas and ease into the brake and it starts growling like nobody’s business!

I immediately whipped into a gas station that is closed and here it is 11:35PM and I have no tools and still 5 miles from home.
I get out and see what the situation is right away but how do I secure this caliper bracket with no bolt or tools? I’m walking around the gas station lot looking for a piece of wire, a chunk of wood I can beat I to the mounting hole with a rock, anything to get me 5 miles with minimal brake. So I decided to sacrifice my phone charging cable and wrapped it thru the mounting hole a few times and tied it in a double knot. Welp, hope this holds and I make it home.

It held and I did. Not exactly sure how I lost the bolt? Did I not tighten it back when I did the backing plates and put the new caliper on? No way it would have held that long. I don’t use thread locker on them anymore, I just smack the wrench with a BFH a few times and I’ve never had an issue with the thousands of brake jobs I’ve done. Is the mounting plate or bracket cracked? I didn’t see anything broke, cracked or busted this morning when I put new bolts in. The bottom bolt was in all the way but wasn’t BFH tight. Probably because the bracket turned in the direction of loosening the bolt. I put thread locker on this time and cranked them down but I’ll have to keep my eye on them now. This was a freak thing and I hope it’s not a reoccurring incident. I did check the other side and they were tight. Idk, but I’m glad it didn’t cause more damage or happen while I was heading up north. I’ll probably change the rubber hose too just because that was the only thing keeping it from rotating into the wheel.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Main thing I wanted to share is this happened last night on my way home from work. Driving 65MPH and I start to hear grinding coming from my right rear wheel area. Turn the radio down to get a better listen and thought, oh crap, that can’t be good. Coming up to an intersection where the light was red I let off the gas and ease into the brake and it starts growling like nobody’s business!

I immediately whipped into a gas station that is closed and here it is 11:35PM and I have no tools and still 5 miles from home.
I get out and see what the situation is right away but how do I secure this caliper bracket with no bolt or tools? I’m walking around the gas station lot looking for a piece of wire, a chunk of wood I can beat I to the mounting hole with a rock, anything to get me 5 miles with minimal brake. So I decided to sacrifice my phone charging cable and wrapped it thru the mounting hole a few times and tied it in a double knot. Welp, hope this holds and I make it home.

It held and I did. Not exactly sure how I lost the bolt? Did I not tighten it back when I did the backing plates and put the new caliper on? No way it would have held that long. I don’t use thread locker on them anymore, I just smack the wrench with a BFH a few times and I’ve never had an issue with the thousands of brake jobs I’ve done. Is the mounting plate or bracket cracked? I didn’t see anything broke, cracked or busted this morning when I put new bolts in. The bottom bolt was in all the way but wasn’t BFH tight. Probably because the bracket turned in the direction of loosening the bolt. I put thread locker on this time and cranked them down but I’ll have to keep my eye on them now. This was a freak thing and I hope it’s not a reoccurring incident. I did check the other side and they were tight. Idk, but I’m glad it didn’t cause more damage or happen while I was heading up north. I’ll probably change the rubber hose too just because that was the only thing keeping it from rotating into the wheel.

View attachment 355646

Glad you were able to McGyver it and get home safe Jim. Weird for sure.

 

[Snowbound]

Yeah, so this is happening today finally. Back 2 bolts are broke, second from back broke recessed in head. Time to break out the welder.

 

[Snowbound]

Got the second from the rear broken bolt out. Welded a washer to the the stud after building up some weld on the bolt itself and then welded a 3/8 nut to that and it walked right out. Wasn’t perfectly straight but it came out.

The back one that was sticking out broke right off when I put pliers on it. That one is a bear to get the welder in there at the right angle. Took a few attempts holding the washer with a magnet but I finally got it to stick.

Then I filled in the center of the washer with weld and welded a 3/8 nut to it. The nut twisted right off. After about 3 nuts not getting good *********** because of the angle of attack I thought, you dumb idiot, use a bigger nut so I have a bigger hole. So first attempt with a 7/16 nut and it came right out.

Cleaning everything up and going back together now.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Got the second from the rear broken bolt out. Welded a washer to the the stud after building up some weld on the bolt itself and then welded a 3/8 nut to that and it walked right out. Wasn’t perfectly straight but it came out.
View attachment 355953

The back one that was sticking out broke right off when I put pliers on it. That one is a bear to get the welder in there at the right angle. Took a few attempts holding the washer with a magnet but I finally got it to stick.
View attachment 355952

Then I filled in the center of the washer with weld and welded a 3/8 nut to it. The nut twisted right off. After about 3 nuts not getting good *********** because of the angle of attack I thought, you dumb idiot, use a bigger nut so I have a bigger hole. So first attempt with a 7/16 nut and it came right out.
View attachment 355955

Cleaning everything up and going back together now.

Def a pita job!! No long tubes??

 

[Snowbound]

Back together and torqued down to 18ftlbs. I used ARP bolts and Remflex gasket. Purrs like a kitten again.