02 Base for my son

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Finally got it back together. Who do these people think they are, wanting me to do work things while on the clock. I have my own stuff to do!
Pump and hoses on.
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I couldn’t bring myself to putting fan shroud and engine covers on with how dirty they were. So I washed them in the parts cleaner and then bucket washed with warm water and simple green. Then rinsed with clean water and let dry. I even removed the insulation from he backside of the covers so they wouldn’t get wet.
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Then I wiped everything down with Armorall before installing.
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I didnt know the VORTEC MAX started out as a VORTEC H.O. Learn something everyday

Says right on the cover, “engineered exclusively for Cadillac Motor Division”. Maybe ** is because it’s a higher compression and higher horsepower than the 6.0 that came in other GM vehicles.
 

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Says right on the cover, “engineered exclusively for Cadillac Motor Division”. Maybe ** is because it’s a higher compression and higher horsepower than the 6.0 that came in other GM vehicles.
Higher compression, and flat crank pistons. And I think one or two other things. But those are the main differences between the LQ4 6.0 like what’s in my Denali, and the LQ9 “high output” engines which is the 6.0 in the caddy’s. Which then morfed into the vortex MAX engines in the GMT900 platform.
 
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Parts came in a day early so I was happy to get my ac working again.
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I almost forgot to get a picture of tensioner installed.
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Belt fit good. Could tell the old belt had some stretch to it. This one was noticeably tighter. I wasn’t sure that I had the 130A alternator but the old belt number referenced a 93.1” belt and that’s what this new one is, didn’t say it’s length, just 130A alt. Had to break down the numbers before ordering.
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Next thing I need to do is an oil change and have the EGR “fall off”.
 
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Had a little time this morning while the wife is at work so I decided to get something done that was bothering me.

I assume I shared that I replaced tint on both front windows because the previous owner did a horse poop job. And he was actually proud of it but I couldn’t leave it. The rear drivers window had the tint bunched up at the bottom and every time the window would roll down you could hear it crinkling. I tore it off a while ago and it didn’t look horrible with the factory tinted glass but I decided to replace it today.
I only use ceramic tint anymore. It makes a huge difference especially with a black vehicle.
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I don’t tint door windows while they are in. It’s too easy to pull them.
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I just put a blanket on a bin for my work station.
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I already cleaned the glue off when I pulled the tint but I needed to know I got it all off around the edges so I used Goo Gone and a plastic razor blade to make sure all the glue was off.
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Then I clean the window with 70% isopropyl alcohol mixed 60/40 with water to get all the adhesive remover off the glass.
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Follow that up with vinegar and paper. Newspaper and vinegar is the best thing to clean windows with. I didn’t have any newspaper in garage but I did have packing paper from my latest Amsoil order.
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Then I cut the tint to fit and sprayed down the window with dish soap and water solution. I don’t use anything fancy to do tint. A little dish soap and water works fine and I always have that in my garage.
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Peeled off the film soaking the tint with soapy water and set it in place.
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Squeegee the tint down and rough trimmed in.
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Tonyrodz

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Follow that up with vinegar and paper. Newspaper and vinegar is the best thing to clean windows with. I didn’t have any newspaper in garage but I did have packing paper from my latest Amsoil order.
View attachment 344483
Then I cut the tint to fit and sprayed down the window with dish soap and water solution. I don’t use anything fancy to do tint. A little dish soap and water works fine and I always have that in my garage.
View attachment 344484
Peeled off the film soaking the tint with soapy water and set it in place.
View attachment 344485
Squeegee the tint down and rough trimmed in.
View attachment 344486
Damn good job. I just usually pull the door panel off. Do you have a problem with the tint edge getting messed up over time? From rolling the window up and down multiple times.
 
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As you can see, I don’t go all the way to the bottom where the window is held on to the lifting clamps. I just like to go well below the window seal.
Any window that isn’t flat is gonna give you slight bubbles.
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That is where a heat gun come in. Doesn’t take much heat to shrink the tint. Warm it up and work the bubble out in the direction it needs to go. As you can see in the picture, don’t try to work bubble to outside of glass, it wants to go down or up. I went down. Then I like to apply heat to entire window to make sure it’s totally shrunk in a little. I don’t want it to shrink in the sun.
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I let it sit for about 1/2 hour before I trim it in. Nothing worse than the tint moving on ya while your trimming. I trim right to where the window starts to roll. I like to keep the tint on the flat glass and off the rolled edge. It doesn’t stick to that very well.
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I know some people like to use an edge sealer or even clear nail polish but I never have issues with curling. I won’t roll the window down for a few days but I roll it up and down a few times after I install it to make sure it’s adjusted properly. It didn’t move or roll. Should be good.
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And that’s all there is to it. Now I have to replace flasher unit for rear LED brake turn bulbs because I’m not a fan of wiring in resistors. Check back after that’s done.
 
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Quick side track, I sold my Ultra Limited.
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I loved that bike! I had just done organizers in trunk and saddle bags and put storage pouches with drink holder on both sides in front of saddle bags.
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Plus I put on the stretched bags, just installed flags on cargo rack among other things. It was starting to come together like I wanted. My next upgrades were gonna be 16” ape hangers, 7” touchscreen radio and sound system. I was looking at $3500 to do all that. Then guy at work who’s bike I originally wanted to buy tells me he is selling his bike. I said your a jag off! I wanted to buy it a few years ago but you backed out so I bought this one. Told him to hold off and I’d sell mine and buy his. His is still an Ultra Limited like mine but it’s newer. They extended the frame 4”, has hydraulic clutch instead of cable, it’s got the boom audio with navigation and 7” touchscreen but one thing I’m not a fan of is the lower fairings. Mine had them too but I removed them. His you can’t because it has “wet heads”. Liquid cooled exhaust valve and the lower fairings have the radiators, fan and overflow so they have to stay. But I’ll learn to deal with it.
I went thru a lot of BS selling mine. Bunch of tire kickers. I listed it for $13,500 which is way less than what I see them out there for. I had people offering me their POS vehicles, one wanted to trade a Polaris 1000 turbo side by side and a lot of low ball offers. The last guy that came to look at it asked if he could test drive it. I told him, it’s like this, if your serious and wanna buy it, let’s work out a price and then you hand me the cash and I’ll give you a bill of sale. That way if you wreck it, you bought it and it’s on your insurance. Otherwise, if you wreck it, I’m left with a wrecked bike and have to make an insurance claim. He understood. Asked what was the bottom dollar I would take. I said look, your the last person that is gonna look at it. You see all the extra parts I have here, you see the bike is flawless and to be honest, I had a guy offer me $13,200 cash just 3 days ago and I told him to kick rocks. He said, ok, I get it and busted out $13,500 in cash and took it for a ride as I counted the money.
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He came back from his ride and asked if I ever did brakes and I said no, they are perfect. Said he felt a pulsation in the brakes like a warped rotor. I said no, that’s the ABS, that’s how they are. He asked if I minded if he made a phone call. I said no problem, should I stop counting? He said no. Came back and said he called his Harley mechanic who confirmed what I said about the ABS and he took it home. Hated seeing that bike ride away with another guys ass in the seat.
But here is my new Ultra Limited. Stretched bags on the way and then I’m having them painted to match the 2 tone.
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So far I’m happy with it. Already did some little stuff but I’m gonna do the ape hangers over the winter so I’m not down during season. Just thought I’d share the new toy.
 

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Quick side track, I sold my Ultra Limited.
View attachment 344491
I loved that bike! I had just done organizers in trunk and saddle bags and put storage pouches with drink holder on both sides in front of saddle bags.
View attachment 344492
Plus I put on the stretched bags, just installed flags on cargo rack among other things. It was starting to come together like I wanted. My next upgrades were gonna be 16” ape hangers, 7” touchscreen radio and sound system. I was looking at $3500 to do all that. Then guy at work who’s bike I originally wanted to buy tells me he is selling his bike. I said your a jag off! I wanted to buy it a few years ago but you backed out so I bought this one. Told him to hold off and I’d sell mine and buy his. His is still an Ultra Limited like mine but it’s newer. They extended the frame 4”, has hydraulic clutch instead of cable, it’s got the boom audio with navigation and 7” touchscreen but one thing I’m not a fan of is the lower fairings. Mine had them too but I removed them. His you can’t because it has “wet heads”. Liquid cooled exhaust valve and the lower fairings have the radiators, fan and overflow so they have to stay. But I’ll learn to deal with it.
I went thru a lot of BS selling mine. Bunch of tire kickers. I listed it for $13,500 which is way less than what I see them out there for. I had people offering me their POS vehicles, one wanted to trade a Polaris 1000 turbo side by side and a lot of low ball offers. The last guy that came to look at it asked if he could test drive it. I told him, it’s like this, if your serious and wanna buy it, let’s work out a price and then you hand me the cash and I’ll give you a bill of sale. That way if you wreck it, you bought it and it’s on your insurance. Otherwise, if you wreck it, I’m left with a wrecked bike and have to make an insurance claim. He understood. Asked what was the bottom dollar I would take. I said look, your the last person that is gonna look at it. You see all the extra parts I have here, you see the bike is flawless and to be honest, I had a guy offer me $13,200 cash just 3 days ago and I told him to kick rocks. He said, ok, I get it and busted out $13,500 in cash and took it for a ride as I counted the money.
View attachment 344493
He came back from his ride and asked if I ever did brakes and I said no, they are perfect. Said he felt a pulsation in the brakes like a warped rotor. I said no, that’s the ABS, that’s how they are. He asked if I minded if he made a phone call. I said no problem, should I stop counting? He said no. Came back and said he called his Harley mechanic who confirmed what I said about the ABS and he took it home. Hated seeing that bike ride away with another guys ass in the seat.
But here is my new Ultra Limited. Stretched bags on the way and then I’m having them painted to match the 2 tone.
View attachment 344494
View attachment 344496
So far I’m happy with it. Already did some little stuff but I’m gonna do the ape hangers over the winter so I’m not down during season. Just thought I’d share the new toy.
Good for you! Good thing that guy wasn't a douche about anything, especially since you were being truthful. I hate dealing with D bag buyers! Who doesn't tho.
 
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Finally getting around to putting the electronic flasher in so I can put my LED brake/turn bulbs back in. I couldn’t deal with the hyper flash.
Ordered this from Amazon, was only like $10-12 and I got it last week. Should be a simple switch out and I’m good to go.
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Well, it started off with a good attitude but quickly turned ugly. This damn lower panel didn’t want to come off. I pulled the bezel from around the dash and stereo/heater controls but the lower panel didn’t want to come off because the center console was in front of it keeping it from pulling out. So I removed the upper center console bezel thinking the side panel would come off. Nope! Ok screw it, it just pulls out the back of the fuse panel so I’ll get it from underneath. Holy hell, I can’t get my hands up there. Let’s try a long pair of needle nose pliers. That sucker did not want to pull out. I started getting really mad over something so stupid so I got rough and forced that thing out against its will. Turns out there a tab that holds it in place. Couldn’t see it from under there. Oh well, nothing broke, get the new one in and calm it a day.
So I thought. I fought like hell trying to get the new one lined up and pushed in while on my back all contorted. Wouldn’t go. The new one is bigger!!
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That explains a lot. The flasher is recessed into the back of the fuse panel. If I had the lower panel off I would cut the raised plastic off with my body saw but there’s no way to get up there from underneath. Time to improvise.
I decided I’m gonna put the electronic flasher internals in the OEM flasher body.
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Long story already taking way more time than it should have, I ended up sanding down the base of the new flasher, cutting tabs out of the OEM flasher case, sanding down the circuit board sides to fit but I got it in there.
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Now getting it back into place was another issue. I couldn’t get it lined up correctly using needle nose. Now I’m getting really mad! This lower panel is coming off even if I have to use a chainsaw. I ended up yanking it off and only casualty was a metal retaining clip got mangled. I had to cut down the alignment dowel about 1/2” on the side with center console to get it back in. But between the upper dash bezel and the bottom bolt, it’s tight and doesn’t rattle. Sorry no pics for that part, I was ready to throw it across the yard.
All is well now. LED lights are in and no hyper flash. Wife is home so now I gotta go to other house to do some work.
Sometimes it’s the littlest things that give me the most grief. I’d rather do hub bearings.
 

Tonyrodz

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Finally getting around to putting the electronic flasher in so I can put my LED brake/turn bulbs back in. I couldn’t deal with the hyper flash.
Ordered this from Amazon, was only like $10-12 and I got it last week. Should be a simple switch out and I’m good to go.
View attachment 344497

View attachment 344498
Well, it started off with a good attitude but quickly turned ugly. This damn lower panel didn’t want to come off. I pulled the bezel from around the dash and stereo/heater controls but the lower panel didn’t want to come off because the center console was in front of it keeping it from pulling out. So I removed the upper center console bezel thinking the side panel would come off. Nope! Ok screw it, it just pulls out the back of the fuse panel so I’ll get it from underneath. Holy hell, I can’t get my hands up there. Let’s try a long pair of needle nose pliers. That sucker did not want to pull out. I started getting really mad over something so stupid so I got rough and forced that thing out against its will. Turns out there a tab that holds it in place. Couldn’t see it from under there. Oh well, nothing broke, get the new one in and calm it a day.
So I thought. I fought like hell trying to get the new one lined up and pushed in while on my back all contorted. Wouldn’t go. The new one is bigger!!
View attachment 344499
That explains a lot. The flasher is recessed into the back of the fuse panel. If I had the lower panel off I would cut the raised plastic off with my body saw but there’s no way to get up there from underneath. Time to improvise.
I decided I’m gonna put the electronic flasher internals in the OEM flasher body.
View attachment 344500
Long story already taking way more time than it should have, I ended up sanding down the base of the new flasher, cutting tabs out of the OEM flasher case, sanding down the circuit board sides to fit but I got it in there.
View attachment 344501
Now getting it back into place was another issue. I couldn’t get it lined up correctly using needle nose. Now I’m getting really mad! This lower panel is coming off even if I have to use a chainsaw. I ended up yanking it off and only casualty was a metal retaining clip got mangled. I had to cut down the alignment dowel about 1/2” on the side with center console to get it back in. But between the upper dash bezel and the bottom bolt, it’s tight and doesn’t rattle. Sorry no pics for that part, I was ready to throw it across the yard.
All is well now. LED lights are in and no hyper flash. Wife is home so now I gotta go to other house to do some work.
Sometimes it’s the littlest things that give me the most grief. I’d rather do hub bearings.
It's ALWAYS the little things that are the biggest beyotchs!
I'm really surprised you haven't sold the other house yet--unless you're still getting everything situated. You must be pulling your hair out!
 
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It's ALWAYS the little things that are the biggest beyotchs!
I'm really surprised you haven't sold the other house yet--unless you're still getting everything situated. You must be pulling your hair out!
More than pulling my hair out. Everything I touched turned into a major overhaul. Being on a slab, the drains were the biggest PITA. Before I bought it 9 years ago they had bath fitters do the drop in tub liner and shower walls. They ******* it up and cut the tub liner short from going under the shower wall. That caused water to get between the liner and tub. When you’d be taking a shower you can feel the water under the liner and it had nowhere to go. I was constantly scraping the caulk out and replacing it. The one side, opposite the shower head, was a 5/8” gap that had to be filled with caulk. I tried everything to keep it sealed up but it was a never ending battle. It was our only bathroom so I couldn’t tear it apart when we lived there. I was constantly pulling tub drain and lifting liner to drain it and then caulking it again. Sucked. My plan was to pull that bath fitter crap and refurbish tub with that epoxy tub paint. Started pulling shower walls and they used tar to attach everything!! Peeled the paper off drywall on walls and ceiling above tub.
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Then I started to see the damage from water getting behind the wall surrounds. Black mold. The walls were paneling over drywall so that had to go so I could replace all the bad stuff. The toilet had no concrete around the drain pipe and the closet flange that the toilet bolts to was rusted. The vinyl floor was laid over old ceramic tile and I think they used spray glue because it came right up. The tub was too far gone and had rust holes. It was a metal tub not a cast one which made it easier to pull but the walls still needed to come out.
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The bottom plate on the wall was gone! So I just gutted it all and had to replace a lot of studs.
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The drain didn’t line up with the new tub so I had to cut a section of concrete out, cut into the lead drain pipe which was too high so I had to fab up a trap below grade attaching tub drain and over flow to old drain. Had to get really creative and it had to be done with tub in place so I had to cut an access hole on the other side from inside a closet. That sucked ***! Then the new 60” tub was almost 5/8” away from the wall on the right side so I had to fur out the entire wall 1/2” so tub would fit. Installing the base plate on the rotted out plumbing wall was a nightmare in itself.
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Just this bathroom was a royal PITA all the while I’m working midnights, dealing with Julianna’s zoom schooling during the day and then going to get whatever I could done when Jess gets home at 4:30-5. Work until 7-8pm on the house, go home take a nap and up at 10pm to head to work. Then the school was on again off again, she’d go for 3 hours Monday Wednesday Friday, then they went back to zoom only. My schedule was all over the place. I’d get most of the stuff done on weekends around Jess’ work schedule on the days I could get out of going to work myself. And work still wanted me to work weekends but I would bust my butt during the week to get all the extra stuff done only to screw myself out of OT but I needed to get house done. But I also needed the money too. The bills and the remodeling supplies have been killing me. I have a receipt around here somewhere, 10 2x4 studs, $122!!! $122 for 10 studs! Studs used to be $1.79 each. Sheet of 1/2” plywood, $56!! Wtf is wrong with people?

But I’m almost done with the house. Maybe 2-3 weeks and it’ll be on the market. I’ve been busting my *** and I hope it all pays off in the end.
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So now you can see, I don’t get any rest. That’s why I pop in around here whenever I get a chance.
And I know, that floor vent isn’t staying, I’m picking up a new one 2mrw after Jess gets home from work, then headed back to house for a few hours, get my 2 hr nap and back to work Sunday night. I’m surprised I’m not dead yet.
 
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Family room got fresh paint, new carpet, rewired outlets and new trim.
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Bathroom you already seen. Kitchen had wall paper on all these walls you see. Removed all the wallpaper, did a lot of patching and paint.
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Every bedroom got fresh paint, rewired outlets and switches, new light fixtures and all but one already had new carpet so I only had to do carpet in one bedroom.

Laundry room had a lot of drywall replaced. Had to rewire the breaker panel and run new wire to rooms so that was completely ripped apart. Still doing new trim and new floor (same as bathroom) before putting appliances back in.
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Bathroom came out great. Nothing causes more damage in a home than water, which cause black mold! Making it really nice for the new owners.
 
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Time for a quick lube, oil and filter change. I think I changed the oil back in January or February but I must not have documented it at the time so I’m not positive. The change oil light came on and it sucks because I don’t usually base my changes on that light but now it’ll be documented in my folder for reference. I like to go 5k miles on oil changes and who knows how many miles I got on this one. I’m slipping.
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I didn’t get a sample this time around only because I can’t say for sure how many miles this oil has on it for my analysis records. I’ll get it next time. But her Caddy will get a full analysis when I change it next weekend.
 
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Since I had a little down time tonight at work, I decided to take care of a scratch on the left rear that has been bothering me. I’m pretty sure one of the kids got it with their bike but I’m not entirely sure.
Had to give it a quick bath so I pulled outside in our wash bay and hit it with the pressure washer. Then I attached my foam cannon and soaked it down. Gave it a quick scrub down with my wash mit and then sprayed it off. Pulled back into my shop and dried it with a chamois.
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Here’s the scratch I’m going after. It goes down the taillight too but I’m not gonna worry about that right now because I might cover the taillights with tint.
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It’s pretty deep not completely thru the paint so I’ll just try to cut and polish it right now. I don’t have too much time to dig in deep on it tonight.
Using my 3” polishing pads and air polisher I started with the orange pad and cutting compound.
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I didn’t want to see a line where I stopped polishing so I cut all the way up to the window, down to the bottom of the fuel door and went about a foot forward the scratch but mostly concentrating around the scratch.
81648EDA-7C80-4EF5-892B-B342E04AAEEA.jpeg
 
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Snowbound

Snowbound

Jim
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After the first round of cutting.
61AD35B7-6443-4DEF-B26B-EDF266D9BBD2.jpeg

It’s still there but not as noticeable as it was. Here I was trying to get the light to reflect off it so you can see it.
04535D0E-140B-4D62-884F-5620E2B18B9F.jpeg

So I did another round of cut but not as big of an area.
228A16CE-D469-40C5-B021-802D4D401F3E.jpeg

This is what it looked like after that.

0F1198B9-4E99-44AD-96D1-AED89AA387CE.jpeg

It’s definitely getting better.
 
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