I have an 01 Tahoe that had 1 key fob that worked fine. I wanted an additional one for my wife so we ordered a new one. I followed the programming instructions exactly. Now neither remote works and neither would successfully program. The truck enters programming mode every time I try but the remotes themselves will not work. So the old and new both don’t work and I have to use the key now. What could be the issue? Yes I’m doing the program procedure correctly.
01 Tahoe key fobs won’t program!
- Thread starter Tahoe88
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When my Hoe first came into the family it had one OE remote, with a #1 on the back of the case. I bought two aftermarket remotes online and attempted to program all three, but the OE one wouldn't program; the two aftermarket ones did. I tried programming them in different order, but I could never get the OE one to program.
the one mine came with was a red replacement fob. I didn’t get any of the originals. But it worked fine. Now that I tried programming a new one, neither will work
I had a 2002 Tahoe and went to Amazon to order 2 extra fobs. I did use the original fob and one of the new fobs and followed the steps in the pic I am posting and both fobs worked fine. I still have the new extra fob and plan to program them all to work. I know that when you do the new fob you have to do all steps for the new and existing fobs at the same time. Hopefully the pics help and I ordered the new fobs off of the numbers on the back of the original fob.
mattbta
Full Access Member
Same process I just followed to link my Boost Auto Parts 2015 fobs for my NBS. It did seem to take quite a long time holding the buttons down on the fobs before the truck responded but all good.
Same exact process I used, but the OE FOB wouldn't program. One of these days I may try it again.
I appreciate your response, but as I stated, I did that exact process numerous times. The truck enters programming mode but that’s it. The remotes don’t respond. I’ve held the lock and unlock buttons for up to 5 minutes on each fob and nothing ever happens. The remote I had worked fine I just wanted a 2nd one for my wife. Now neither the old or new one work.
Almost forgot: Welcome to the forum from Oregon
In answer to your concern. You may have a problem with the BCM or the circuits with that. Check ALL fuses and while I would say make sure the fobs batteries are in good shape, I would assume it is not that since neither will program but I do hate to assume. I get that the steps I supplied are the same but I did not know that and that is why I supplied them. I also checked at the web site and the steps for a 2001 and a 2005, my rig, are the same.
In answer to your concern. You may have a problem with the BCM or the circuits with that. Check ALL fuses and while I would say make sure the fobs batteries are in good shape, I would assume it is not that since neither will program but I do hate to assume. I get that the steps I supplied are the same but I did not know that and that is why I supplied them. I also checked at the web site and the steps for a 2001 and a 2005, my rig, are the same.
I still have to check fuses but when I looked the other night I didn’t see any BCM fuses, only the ecm. I wasn’t able to pull it with the high quality fuse puller provided and my tools weren’t on hand. I also thought, based on some other posts I’ve read through, that a sign of the bcm being bad was that the vehicle wouldn’t enter programming at all and confirming with the lock/unlock cycle. Mine does enter programming and the locks cycle once the unlock button is released on the door after executing the procedure. Are there any other procedures to verify a bad bcm? Any links where I could purchase one? I appreciate the help and the welcome! Thank you from NJ
The original remote did work already so I’m sure it wasn’t the battery. But to be positive I did swap it with a brand new one. Still nothing on either fob
Right now, I am at a loss as to recommendations for you. Hopefully someone else will chime in with a fresh perspective.
Check these links out: https://fusesdiagram.com/chevrolet/fuses-and-relay-chevrolet-suburban-2000-2006.html
https://chevroletforum.com/forum/tahoe-suburban-25/just-started-blowing-interior-bcm-fuse-19423/
On this link, look at the very bottom of the diagram for fuse #59 on the dash side panel location for that fuse box.
https://fusesdiagram.com/chevrolet/fuses-and-relay-chevrolet-silverado-1999-2007.html
Check these links out: https://fusesdiagram.com/chevrolet/fuses-and-relay-chevrolet-suburban-2000-2006.html
https://chevroletforum.com/forum/tahoe-suburban-25/just-started-blowing-interior-bcm-fuse-19423/
On this link, look at the very bottom of the diagram for fuse #59 on the dash side panel location for that fuse box.
https://fusesdiagram.com/chevrolet/fuses-and-relay-chevrolet-silverado-1999-2007.html
Again, thank you very much. I will check fuse 60 but I have to assume it’s fine being as literally everything else in the truck works fine. Hopefully someone has the answer!
The thing is, if the old fob worked and then would not after the program attempt, I don't know that the BCM or a fuse would allow the original to work one minute and then not work the next.
I agree but from what I understand entering program mode in the truck erases or resets its fob memory which is why whenever you program one, you must program all others. This is why I wish there was a way to rule out whether it’s the bcm or not. At least if it wasn’t entering programming or other things weren’t working correctly I could assume it was the bcm at this point. I just don’t want to drop $200 and still have the same issue.
That 3rd link shows the fuse as number 59.
Not sure which diagram you’re referring to in the link but it shows the bcm as fuse #60 and #59 for the rear wiper...
You are correct. I did not click off of the default fuse list for 1999. The fuse list for 2000 to 2002 shows fuse 60. Good catch.
you had me second guessing myself! I’m like what am I missing here!? Nevertheless, I’ll check it but I would assume other things would be rendered inoperable if the fuse was bad. I wonder if it’s possible that the bcm could only be bad but the only thing affected is the fob programming? Would it then make more sense to have someone with a scan tool that can access bcm features manually add the fobs? I’ve added fobs to numerous vehicles and never had an issue. I really wish I knew why it won’t work!
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