0-20w oil

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Wileybird03

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Anybody using any other oil than the 0-20w it calls for? Just curious if it would hurt to use a say 5-30w? Thx
 

Pro299

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I haven't, and not sure why you'd want to. As long as the oil specified is available, what's to be gained by using something else? Decades ago, we'd switch oils to whatever marketing schtick was prevalent, particularly if it claimed to be "racing" or "High Performance" or whatever. Those days of just throwing something in there were over at least three decades ago.

I'm sure you'll get other feedback. There are millions of armchair experts when it comes to oil. Just because we all buy it and read about it, doesn't mean we're experts. A search on any auto-related forum will yield thousands of opinions, the vast majority of which are uninformed at best. Trying to be polite about it. Unlike in decades past, modern engines have very different materials, tighter tolerances, different cooling configurations, different operating ranges, and so on. Have you looked at the redline on your DMax? It's much higher than what you'd expect if you're accustomed to most diesels on the road. In short, I'll trust the guys who designed the engine while working with the oil chemists who know more about their products than I do ( and most likely more than any of us you'll read here).
 

Stbentoak

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I personally am not using anything but DexosD. There are people on other forums that are using an Amsoil version of this, that swear by it. But they are Amsoil fanatics and they’re just sure that it is better than anything on the planet.
I am personally using DexosD Mobil 1 X2ESP with the green top 0W-20, but the AC Delco version is just as good…WIX filters…no warranty issues…..
 
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Wileybird03

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Roger thx! I have the Mobil 1 esp 0-20w green bottle as well for my first oil change! Just curious if anyone was runnin lil thinker stuff! Read on another forum a guy was runnin 5-30 in his baby max! I’ll stick with the 0-20! Thx
 

Geotrash

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I haven't, and not sure why you'd want to. As long as the oil specified is available, what's to be gained by using something else? Decades ago, we'd switch oils to whatever marketing schtick was prevalent, particularly if it claimed to be "racing" or "High Performance" or whatever. Those days of just throwing something in there were over at least three decades ago.

I'm sure you'll get other feedback. There are millions of armchair experts when it comes to oil. Just because we all buy it and read about it, doesn't mean we're experts. A search on any auto-related forum will yield thousands of opinions, the vast majority of which are uninformed at best. Trying to be polite about it. Unlike in decades past, modern engines have very different materials, tighter tolerances, different cooling configurations, different operating ranges, and so on. Have you looked at the redline on your DMax? It's much higher than what you'd expect if you're accustomed to most diesels on the road. In short, I'll trust the guys who designed the engine while working with the oil chemists who know more about their products than I do ( and most likely more than any of us you'll read here).
I generally agree, but it's important to understand the reasons why GM is specifying 0w-20 over 5w-30, 40, etc in order to understand what the pros/cons are of making a different choice. I don't know the answer with 100% certainty, but my understanding is that 0w-20 is primarily to improve fuel economy by reducing pumping energy and friction - especially while the engine is cold. With a possible trade-off being lower film strength and less protection between parts when hot, and consequently less durability of these parts later. That of course depends on the tolerances between these parts not being any different than in previous engines.

All of that said, without input from a GM engineer who knows for sure, we're all just surmising. All I can say is that if were my rig, I'd feel a little better with 5w-30 in there because I no longer trust the trade-offs that manufacturers are being forced to make due to changing regulations. The goal of the regulations is to increase fuel economy, not durability.

I've done extensive internal engine work on my 6.2, and all of the engine builders and cam experts I spoke with (4 of them) said that they prefer a heavier weight oil in a high performance engine, so I run 5w-40 Euro oil in mine now because I tow a lot, and the valvetrain runs quieter than with 5w-30. I also owned a BMW 328d (diesel) I bought new in 2014, and BMW specified 5w-30 LL04 spec oil for that. LL04 oil comes in both 5w-30 and 5w-40, so lots of guys ran the 40 in their d in summer.
 
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Stbentoak

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I would add to use AC filters. I had an issue with a Wix- pinhole leak- and dealer did not cover cleanup cost....crappy of them but lesson learned.

I like Wix filters but under warranty I would stick w/ AC
That could happen with any filter.. If you look at the innards of a Delco filter and you look at the innards of a WIX... You'll see why many people choose them.
 

avalonandl

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That could happen with any filter.. If you look at the innards of a Delco filter and you look at the innards of a WIX... You'll see why many people choose them.
I agree, Wix is better than AC. I am only pointing out that A dealer has to honor warranty with the AC. I got hosed because the filter I had was a Wix.
 

catalinajack

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I generally agree, but it's important to understand the reasons why GM is specifying 0w-20 over 5w-30, 40, etc in order to understand what the pros/cons are of making a different choice. I don't know the answer with 100% certainty, but my understanding is that 0w-20 is primarily to improve fuel economy by reducing pumping energy and friction - especially while the engine is cold. With a possible trade-off being lower film strength and less protection between parts when hot, and consequently less durability of these parts later. That of course depends on the tolerances between these parts not being any different than in previous engines.

All of that said, without input from a GM engineer who knows for sure, we're all just surmising. All I can say is that if were my rig, I'd feel a little better with 5w-30 in there because I no longer trust the trade-offs that manufacturers are being forced to make due to changing regulations. The goal of the regulations is to increase fuel economy, not durability.

I've done extensive internal engine work on my 6.2, and all of the engine builders and cam experts I spoke with (4 of them) said that they prefer a heavier weight oil in a high performance engine, so I run 5w-40 Euro oil in mine now because I tow a lot, and the valvetrain runs quieter than with 5w-30. I also owned a BMW 328d (diesel) I bought new in 2014, and BMW specified 5w-30 LL04 spec oil for that. LL04 oil comes in both 5w-30 and 5w-40, so lots of guys ran the 40 in their d in summer.
Never, never trust anyone who is not an expert in the design and production of lubricants. That includes any and all mechanics.
 

Z15

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0W-20 engine oil can reduce the startup load by making it easier to turn over a cold engine and the impact is felt at higher temperatures than most consumers would think, not simply to what feels cold to humans - warm summers days are cold to an parked engine. Also these newer engines with Variable Valve Timing and Active Fuel Management operate at peak efficiency with the oem recommended viscosity.


Question: Can another oil such as 5W30 that is cheaper and more widely available be used in place of 0W20 oil?

Answer: No. The 5.3L and 6.2L V8 EcoTec3 engines available in the 2014+ Silverado 1500 and Sierra 1500 pickup trucks were designed, engineered and validated to run using 0W20 oil. This is the ONLY oil approved for these engines.
 

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