Oil pressure issue

builds4christ said:

it's a "Desired % vs ECT" setup, unfortunately ... lowest temp you can modify the % is at 192F.

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What's the table look like?

192.2degF is the floor.
Stock fan on @201.2 degF.
Stock aux fan will turn on @231.8 degF.

192 . . . 196 . . . 199 . . . 203 . . . 207 . . . 210 . . . 214 . . . 217 . . . 221 . . . 225 . . . 228 . . . 232 . . . 235 . . . 239 is already overheating anyway ...
40% . . . 45% . . 50% . . 55% . . 60% . . 65% . . . 70% . . 75% . . . 80% . . 85% . . 90% . . . 95% . . 96% . . . 97%

For whatever it's worth, fans don't really need to be on under 199F, forward motion should provide the radiator enough headwind -
unless the AC is on, in which case the AC psi should determine fan setting by overriding the above settings.

builds4christ said:

Thanks for the tips @thefrey ! I'm super happy I made this post because I'm feeling better about this truck as I read, haha.

Thanks for the compliment on the profile pic! It's my side ministry/business. I try and use my mechanical skills to help those who either can't pay for repairs or need to pay significantly less. All to the glory of God because He's given me the skills and provided for me and my family all this time! So I guess I'm trying to pass it forward.

@Joseph Garcia thanks for the info brother! I'm running slightly thicker oil to account for larger clearances since the engine has a ton of miles.

I do that with all my aging engines. I don't go too extreme, generally, but most of my blocks have been iron, so I haven't needed to. This is the first aluminum block I've had that's swung so dramatically after it warmed up haha.

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Was wondering myself about the builds4christ username and profile pic! Really awesome ministry ya got going! Love hearing about stuff like this! Amen to all Glory to God for the skills and talents He’s blessed us with! Keep up the Lord’s work brother!

builds4christ said:

Thanks for the compliment on the profile pic! It's my side ministry/business. I try and use my mechanical skills to help those who either can't pay for repairs or need to pay significantly less. All to the glory of God because He's given me the skills and provided for me and my family all this time! So I guess I'm trying to pass it forward.

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My brother in Christ that is awesome. Love to hear it.

Scrappycrow said:

I see someone beat me suggesting Lake Speed's videos to you!

Unless you understand the specific chemistry of the oil and specific chemistry of an additive, it's best to not use an additive. You could easily end up unbalancing the chemistry and end up with way too much in one area, or end up with the the oil and the additive chemistry canceling each other out.

Overall, the use of additives is outdated, so if you're basing this on anything like "I've done this for decades" or "My dad/grandpa told me to use them," you have to banish that way of thinking and update yourself to modern knowledge.

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Lake Speed is awesome! I got some Oil Analysis done with them and it was very detailed. I need to get it done on the Tahoe next go round.

mikez71 said:

I've heard you can't change the temp tables, UNLESS you convert it to 2 bar OS..
Not sure what all is involved (will need a new MAP sensor I'm guessing, looks like you need to fill in VE map, and will probably want some fine tuning)

BTW, you need to update your signature to include your new Yukon!

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Oh man I didn't even catch that! Thanks!

I assumed it had a 2 bar because it's supercharged, but I could be wrong. How can I verify that?

Reading the tune is all I can come up with.

Google says some lower boost setups just read the MAF and compensate that way..

If you check the MAP sensor part number, a 2+ bar sensor would likely have the OS patch I am guessing..

Thanks for the encouragement @JoeBlobs and @adventurenali92! Glory to God! Keep me in prayer fellas, in a season where I'm trying to figure out what God has in store!

@mikez71, gotcha brother. I'm going to check on that. I've dug so deep into this car already. I still hate the oil issue. If we're going off of the 10psi per 1k rpm rule, I'm good, but damn the drop is incredible.

It's lower than I originally posted, by the way. So after a full heat soak, I cruise at roughly 37 psi. It's just hard to believe it can drop THAT much after warming up, so sometimes I wonder if I did something wrong, but again I'm not used to all aluminum blocks. And honestly, it takes about 15 minutes of driving to get that low. It creeps down over time as I'm cruising the highway at 70mph until it settles at 37 psi. Also, it sits at about 17psi in drive at a stop.

Engine otherwise runs strong and sounds great!

I wonder what a solid large scale oil cooler would do

@builds4christ

The oil pressure relief valve is set for 33 psi or so. Once she's warmed up, she'll not exceed 38 psi or so while cruising down the highway. These aluminum engines use an oil pump that delivers 1/3 more oil per revolution than the iron block motors because of the looser tolerances with aluminum. You don't need to run anything thicker than 5W30 with a normal oiling system. A high volume oil pump provides no benefit to a street engine.

We've seen plenty of folks get VVT error codes because they are running non-sec oil, not Dexos certified or too heavy of an oil. Not everyone but more than a few. Do what you want just keep that in mind if something comes up.

It took a few months for my oil pressure to creep up another couple of pounds after replacing the o-ring in the pan. Guess it swelled up some and made a better fit.

That's interesting! Thanks for that info.

I have a lot to learn about these things.

I keep imagining oil spilling out of the sides of the bearings because they're too loose to retain it .

Well, I'll just keep driving it and come back with anything new.

Love your quote at the end!