Rear Main

What's up everyone. I'm finally going to deal with the leaking rear main seal on my 10 Burb. Quotes around me are like $2500 for the job so I'm going to do it in my driveway. Not something I wanted to diy but the budget is forcing me. Maybe I can use the money I save for a new driveway since it's ruined from my trucks oil leaks!! Biggest thing Im worried about is getting the exhaust flange bolts off but other than that it's seems pretty straight forward. While the trans is out Im also going to change the oil pressure sensor that's been acting wierd and the passenger side motor mount. What's everyone's thoughts about changing out the barbell seal if it's not leaking? Also any other recommendations on what to replace while it's apart? I know I could do a ton with the 180,000 mile transmission but I'm short on time and money and so far it's been fine so I just plan on re installing it.

What seal is the barbell seal?
As far as the flange bolts are concerned, hit them good a few times a few days before you intend to take them off.
Kroil is probably the best stuff out there for jobs like that.

The exhaust bolts are not all that hard to remove. I would soak them with pb blaster and use impact. They will be off before you know it. There is 1 nut on the passenger that you will not be able to get to unless you remove the o2 sensor.

I didnt touch my barbel. usually if it protrudes or sticks out farther than usual you will need to replace.

Most people will also recommend you to change the transmission front and rear seal while the trans is out.

Im assuming you dont have 4-wheel drive

solli5pack said:

What's up everyone. I'm finally going to deal with the leaking rear main seal on my 10 Burb. Quotes around me are like $2500 for the job so I'm going to do it in my driveway. Not something I wanted to diy but the budget is forcing me. Maybe I can use the money I save for a new driveway since it's ruined from my trucks oil leaks!! Biggest thing Im worried about is getting the exhaust flange bolts off but other than that it's seems pretty straight forward. While the trans is out Im also going to change the oil pressure sensor that's been acting wierd and the passenger side motor mount. What's everyone's thoughts about changing out the barbell seal if it's not leaking? Also any other recommendations on what to replace while it's apart? I know I could do a ton with the 180,000 mile transmission but I'm short on time and money and so far it's been fine so I just plan on re installing it.

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There is no way I would get into a 180,000 mile rig that far and not replace the torque converter. This is the one several of us have used and so far no failures. It has a billet cover, stronger lockup clutch, and a flanged hub. Stock stall speed.


The barbell is behind the rear cover plate on the engine and has been associated with oil pressure losses on high mile engines.

lspann3525 said:

The exhaust bolts are not all that hard to remove. I would soak them with pb blaster and use impact. They will be off before you know it. There is 1 nut on the passenger that you will not be able to get to unless you remove the o2 sensor.

I didnt touch my barbel. usually if it protrudes or sticks out farther than usual you will need to replace.

Most people will also recommend you to change the transmission front and rear seal while the trans is out.

Im assuming you dont have 4-wheel drive

Click to expand...

Its 4wd.

Geotrash said:

There is no way I would get into a 180,000 mile rig that far and not replace the torque converter. This is the one several of us have used and so far no failures. It has a billet cover, stronger lockups clutch, and a flanged hub. Stock stall speed.

Pardon Our Interruption

The barbell is behind the rear cover plate on the engine and has been associated with oil pressure losses on high mile engines.

Pardon Our Interruption

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I know...you're right...I'm not familiar with tourqe converters. Does it just bolt right in?

solli5pack said:

I know...you're right...I'm not familiar with tourqe converters. Does it just bolt right in?

Click to expand...

Yup.

Torque converter, upgrade the barbell with an aluminum one with o-rings. I always replace motor mounts as a set, along with the transmission mount. Pick up a new seal for the transmission dipstick tube. Once you have the flex plate off and you're looking at the back of your engine, you'll notice the rear main seal is flush with the rear engine cover. When you install the new seal, it's okay to go about an eighth of an inch further till the bottoms out on a flange. That way the seal will be riding on a clean spot of the crankshaft in case you have a very slight groove. I personally recommend the felpro seal and gasket kit. Note in the instructions on these new seals, you install them dry. No oil residue at all on the crankshaft or the seal itself.... Or it will leak. Just wipe down the crankshaft surface with some brake cleaner.

If you're not pulling the oil pan to replace the oil pickup tube o-ring, you'll want the alignment tool that slides over the crankshaft and fits snugly into the bore for the rear main seal, to ensure it will be centered. Fairly inexpensive on Amazon, usually comes with one for the front cover as well.

You'll want a new gasket to go between the transmission and transfer case. And you might as well get the input and output shaft seals swapped out on the transfer case while it's out.

Exhaust manifold flange to the downpipe, you'll note the passenger side usually has a donut and the driver side has a thin metal ring. A razor blade works great to pop the metal ring out of its groove.

If you're not replacing O2 sensors, I'd suggest remove them if you're going to use an impact. It's pretty common the vibration destroys them.

A heat gun. Pretty much a necessity to heat up the harness plugs on the side of the transmission so that you can remove them without damaging them.

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Then of course you have the notorious list of things "while you are in there" that depends on your time available and budget:

U-joints since you have the drive shafts out

If you're going for the oil pick up tube o-ring you'll be dropping the front differential. Perfect time to do those oil cooler lines.

Dexron 6 for the transfer case

O2 sensors

New starter since it's out?

07 Denali w/6.2 & 6L80 & awd.
Here's what and when I did it:
MILEAGE – 132,000
11/23/18 to 12/7/19
Installed rear main seal & cover – Dorman 635-518 - $43
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/rear-main-seal-job-pan-etc-07-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/

Performed TSB 10-06-01-008M and used Gunk Motor Medic $5 to do the piston combustion chamber soak:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/MC-10114272-9999.pdf

replaced:
Valve cover driverside – GM# 12570427 - $117
Oil pan gasket – GM# 12612350 - $36
Oil pickup tube to oil pump o-ring – Felpro 72401 or GM 12584922 - $9
Torque Converter – P4646 (gopnh.com) Precision- $218
Tranny front pump seal – GM# 24237531 - $30
Tranny Input shaft seal – GM# 24219390 - $10
AFM Deflector – gm#12639759 - $8
Trans cooler line 1 – ACDelco 15779543 - $16
Trans cooler lines 2 – ACDelco 25999420 - $56
Trans cooler clips- ACDelco# 24205103 - $10
Trans cooler gasket - $7
Front lower plastic cowl - $31
Starter – 6757N - $60
Alternator (160 amp) – 8301N - $108

bar bell yes but to me oem plastic one not the aftermarket ones.

the Machining tolerances are actually really precise to keep from cutting O-rings on the way in and I don't trust cheap aluminum ones. plus no one has ever reported a new plastic one causing an issue even with high mileage

Thanks for all the advice! The truck is jacked up, secured and the tourqe converter and barbell are ordered from Summit. I took out the driveshaft just to get something done, Ill be back on it tomorrow. Gonna go with feelpro seals,gaskets and I got the alingment tool leftover from the D.O.D delete. Hopefully driving it from N.J. to Florida in 3 weeks

Does the trans and transfer case need to be supported with a jack when the cross member is removed but trans still bolted to the engine?

I always remove the transfer case first. Usually it's overhanging a welded in crossmember at the rear of the transfer case. Remove the six bolts, slight back about an inch or two, then knows it down with the tail shaft up to clear the crossmember.

Might be different on a longer wheelbase....

I use a scissor lift transmission jack, works pretty slick . Here it is below on a 4l65e I pulled out of a Hummer H2.



They're available online for right around $100. Works great on the front differential as well. It was just under $100 at harbor freight couple years ago.

rdezs said:

I always remove the transfer case first. Usually it's overhanging a welded in crossmember at the rear of the transfer case. Remove the six bolts, slight back about an inch or two, then knows it down with the tail shaft up to clear the crossmember.

Might be different on a longer wheelbase....

I use a scissor lift transmission jack, works pretty slick . Here it is below on a 4l65e I pulled out of a Hummer H2.

View attachment 459061

They're available online for right around $100. Works great on the front differential as well. It was just under $100 at harbor freight couple years ago.

View attachment 459062

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Fresh out of the box!

Currently stuck on the manifold flange bolts. Two came off four won't budge. Using heat and spray with an impact. Had to walk away for a beer break.

solli5pack said:

Currently stuck on the manifold flange bolts. Two came off four won't budge. Using heat and spray with an impact. Had to walk away for a beer break.

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Beer break, then beer balls, then broken fasteners?

solli5pack said:

Currently stuck on the manifold flange bolts. Two came off four won't budge. Using heat and spray with an impact. Had to walk away for a beer break.

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Try the other direction righty tighty to see if it breaks loose.

89Suburban said:

Beer break, then beer balls, then broken fasteners?

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One way or another.....broken bolts or broken tools!!!!

I dont have a 15mm impact socket. Anyone thinks that matters?

One deep well socket. Two long half-inch extensions. Breaker bar, with a 24-in pipe over it. You'll either break a loose or break the stud. Exhaust manifolds aren't that expensive, LOL