Performance exhaust manifolds vrs headers

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Sam Harris

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Staggered 22: Many you are the bomb. Thanks for the help! Exactly what I was curious about. I honestly, watched how the shops and header manufacturers coat the headers on Youtube. It's not much different than what you would do at home. Only the polishing setup I don't have. They were using a tumbler with likely millions of miniature sanding balls then turning it in the machine to polish the headers. Otherwise they were using a sprayer to ceramic coat them, same as anybody else would use.

Couple questions:
  1. Did you up the size of the exhaust (diameter)?
  2. I'd prefer to keep the truck emissions compliant (with cats).
  3. I'd like long tubes but to maintain the cat back exhaust for now as is a large investment.
  4. Additionally, looking to swap my engine for a 6.0, assuming exhaust is same for that and 5.3
I've honestly never done an exhaust upgrade before so a bit of a novice when specing it out.
FYI when I did my Yukon headers (ARH), I did not ceramic coat them, and also retained the stock cat back exhaust, other than changing to a smaller muffler and adding a Corsa tip. The ARH longtubes can be had with cats or without.

ETA: for non-forced induction applications, you want the 1 3/4 pipes, rather than the 1 7/8.
 

Tonyrodz

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FYI when I did my Yukon headers (ARH), I did not ceramic coat them, and also retained the stock cat back exhaust, other than changing to a smaller muffler and adding a Corsa tip. The ARH longtubes can be had with cats or without.

ETA: for non-forced induction applications, you want the 1 3/4 pipes, rather than the 1 7/8.
Def the 1 3/4's.
 

Staggered 02

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Staggered 22: Many you are the bomb. Thanks for the help! Exactly what I was curious about. I honestly, watched how the shops and header manufacturers coat the headers on Youtube. It's not much different than what you would do at home. Only the polishing setup I don't have. They were using a tumbler with likely millions of miniature sanding balls then turning it in the machine to polish the headers. Otherwise they were using a sprayer to ceramic coat them, same as anybody else would use.

Couple questions:

  1. Did you up the size of the exhaust (diameter)?
  2. I'd prefer to keep the truck emissions compliant (with cats).
  3. I'd like long tubes but to maintain the cat back exhaust for now as is a large investment.
  4. Additionally, looking to swap my engine for a 6.0, assuming exhaust is same for that and 5.3
I've honestly never done an exhaust upgrade before so a bit of a novice when specing it out.



Hi Matthew. The polishing / tumbling portion of the operation is one of the most important parts of the process. Hence the cost difference and reason why I would suggest you get them done professionally. Besides appearance benefits that result from a nice smooth finish, the tumbling process eliminates surface imperfections where contaminants can find a way to attach themselves to the stainless surfaces resulting in poor adhesion, bare or light spots, and bad results all around. As with any type of application process be it paint, chrome, adhesion, bonding, grounding etc. the result is as good as the preparation work.

Besides meeting and working with different shops (chrome, powder coat, polish, paint, music etc), I work on programs where surface prep not only has to be maintained but adhered to witness and verified before the next processes can continue.

There are also differences in materials known as stainless steel grades. The better the material / grade the better the result, the fitment, longevity and the higher the price of course. All of that matters. Your goal then would be to find the header that works best for you in terms of quality, performance,

With regards to your questions.

1. No I did not up the size of my exhaust on any of my vehicles as of now. I did however re-do the exhaust on the SS. I split my exhaust on the crew cab the 02 Silverado, & did a magnaflow catback exhaust for the Escalade. So there was some modification to the exhaust but none involved upsized the diameters. I would and will on a Duramax that is for sure.

2. ARH makes a system where you could go with or without cats. I live in Florida. No cats.

3. You might want to hold off and save some funds then go long tubes with cats. You don't have to change the rest of the exahust if you don't want to. What year is your SUV? I actually have a spare cat back exhaust the i put in my attic not long ago. Long story on that. But I have a brand new one in the box.

4. I hear mixed (good and bad stories about 6.0s). I guess it all depends on the condition the 6.0 is in or so. 6.2 has me sold based on what I've experienced with this Escalade.


Hope this helps. Enjoy the homework and the effort as it is all part of getting your vehicle dialed in just right. It's never easy. Especially if you have all sorts of other things going on in your life (i.e. family, career, business, funds, expertise, etc).
 

91RS

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I did the 1 3/4 ARH long tubes with cats on my Escalade and kept the stock cat-back and I'm happy. Bolted right up with zero fitment issues. Definitely stay with the 1 3/4 N/A because that will help with lower end torque. Tuning after is a must because mine did set catalyst codes before I even got home but it doesn't stink like catless does. I haven't ceramic coated any headers I've never done and never felt like the underhood temperatures increased too much.
 

Sam Harris

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I did the 1 3/4 ARH long tubes with cats on my Escalade and kept the stock cat-back and I'm happy. Bolted right up with zero fitment issues. Definitely stay with the 1 3/4 N/A because that will help with lower end torque. Tuning after is a must because mine did set catalyst codes before I even got home but it doesn't stink like catless does. I haven't ceramic coated any headers I've never done and never felt like the underhood temperatures increased too much.
Not sure why you needed to tune yours afterwards. My ARH longtubes with cats had all provisions for the O2 sensors and no codes after installation. I do plan to do this ASAP, but it wasn’t mandatory in my case. Maybe a difference in generations? Mine is an 03 Yukon.
 

Sam Harris

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Another thing to make sure you address:

While you’re in there, change plugs unless they’re new, and definitely new wires. I went with the Accel ceramic boot wires, since they’re so close to the headers. Also, used the 9070C model, which is specified for the 4th gen LS, but they’re also perfect for the gen 3 (as I have). These are much shorter than the designated replacement wires for the motor, so you don’t have trouble with the wires resting on a header, and melting, requiring you to zip tie, or find some other method of keeping it away from the heat. I had originally purchased Taylor high temp wires, but saw @Tonyrods and @Rocketman had trouble with heat issues, due to the length. I think @Rocketman is happy with some he sourced on eBay which are also much shorter. The ARH come with quality gaskets, and I also upgraded to ARP bolts, at the recommendation of @Rocketman, and very happy with them. They’re not going to break..!
 

Staggered 02

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Understand and agree about ceramic coating being a matter of choice. For me it was a must do to control the heat and for asthetics. Bare headers have a propensity to get oxidized and change colors.

Good point about plugs and plug wires. I am running aftermarket Taylor wires on the trucks including the Escalade. The 02 gave me no length or contact concerns but this is largely because I relocated my coils and routed the wires easier and different from stock.
 
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