Amp location and bypass/re-use

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Mondo

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Ok so here's the plan.
I have a 2002 Yukon XL SLT. NO bose but do have onstar and factory sub in the trunk.

I have read places and forums saying the amp is on a bracket where the factory sub is in the trunk. I have the bracket but no amp there. Also checked under the cup holders there is no visible amp just a sire and pin set but I believe that is only for the rear audio control unit on the back of the center console.

My end goal is to install my Memphis Amp and Sub by using the power remote and ground of the factory amp. And running Rcas from my aftermarket kenwood radio. And also doing an amp bypass so my kenwood powers all speakers ( front mid and tweet. second row mid and tweet. And trunk pillar tweets.) I will run the pillar tweets off of the second row for any body wondering.

Now I know runing my own power and ground might be better than the small factory wiring. but the amp is max 600watts so it truly doesnt need thick wire. and it should be atleast 12 gauge wiring. I know thats what connects the factory sub.

Thank you in advanced for the help!
 

ezdaar

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Amp is under the center console bucket.
Its a nightmare to by pass it, by a rewire..
You best bet is to forget about it all together and run new wires everywhere.

This also allows a functional stock radio system when you sell.
 

Sub

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Amp is under the center console bucket.


No, the amp is NOT under the center console bucket. Mondo has a 2002 model year. 2000-2002 model years are quite different than 2003-2006 model years, when it comes to amplifier location.

Mondo also already confirmed that he looked under his center console, which being a 2002, is also of a different design than subsequent model years.

For a 2002 Yukon XL Base model without YE9 and without Y91, there is no amplifier. Amplification is done in the head unit only. But since you have Rear Seat Audio controls, and you have an SLT package, I suspect that you DO have RPO code YE9. You can confirm this by looking at the RPO list label in side your glove box. The RPO codes are listed in alphabetical order.

If you do have YE9, then the amplifier is mounted vertically right there behind the glove box. Drop down the glove box by squeezing in the sides of the glove box walls until the back tabs ciear the stops, and the amplifier will be visible as a large aluminum heat sink with a single connector plugged into the left side of it.

If you your 2002 Yukon XL is a Denali, with RPO code Y91, then the amplifier is behind the left rear quarter panel trim. This is the same trim panel where the subwoofer is, only the amp is mounted on a separate bracket ahead of the wheel well. You can access the wiring without pulling the entire panel by simply lifting the snap in tray where the jack and jack tools are located, on top of the left rear wheel well. The Denali amp has two harness connectors, facing the rear.

For 2003-2006, all the separate amps, for both Denali and non Denali, got moved to the redesigned center console, along with the subwoofer itself.
 
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Mondo

Mondo

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Thank you SUB

Now I will check that amp placement in the morning although I'm certain your correct.

As far as my ideas for bypassing and reusing the amp what are your thought.

Any other threads you can point me to or from your knowledge.
 

Sub

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Mondo... I don't think I can be much help beyond offering suggestions on where to find factory components, like where your amp is, or where a circuit might be. I don't know much about aftermarket system set ups to provide any advice beyond that limited scope.

I will say this though... I'm kind of confused why you wish to continue to simultaneously power, yet completely bypass, your factory amp. I think I'm just not following you.
 
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Mondo

Mondo

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Mondo... I don't think I can be much help beyond offering suggestions on where to find factory components, like where your amp is, or where a circuit might be. I don't know much about aftermarket system set ups to provide any advice beyond that limited scope.

I will say this though... I'm kind of confused why you wish to continue to simultaneously power, yet completely bypass, your factory amp. I think I'm just not following you.

I want to completely bypass it but use its power supply remote and ground. In the end the amp will not be in use.

---------- Post added at 07:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:46 PM ----------

Do not run a aftermarket amp off your stock amp wiring...

I'm not new to aftermarket systems at all but what's your reasoning behind not doing it. It's only a 600 watt max amp if I add an in line fuse there would be no problems.
 
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Mondo

Mondo

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Here is why the wire is too small to support a 600w amp. I'm guessing your 600w max Memphis had 50-60 amps of fusing?

http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp

I have come across that site before. I guess facts dont lie I was just trying to avoid runing a 4 gauge wire all the way from battery to trunk and hidding it threw the interior. And since im running the RCA also and I normaly run them on opposite sides of the car.

Well if im going to do it gotta do it right!

So onward,

Whats the best route to run the 4 gauge power from battery to trunk and without cutting the firewall. Any Ideas?
 

YukonXL04

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That chart is a little overkill. But you would be fine with 8ga. However it's best to run at least 4ga so when you decide to upgrade the wire is already there. I usually run 0ga in everything because the system always ends up getting upgraded and added onto. You start with a single amp, next thing you know your running 3 amps or 2 big amps lol...
 
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Mondo

Mondo

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That chart is a little overkill. But you would be fine with 8ga. However it's best to run at least 4ga so when you decide to upgrade the wire is already there. I usually run 0ga in everything because the system always ends up getting upgraded and added onto. You start with a single amp, next thing you know your running 3 amps or 2 big amps lol...

Haha that's trun but I'll be fine with my setup that combination I have is amazing. People always think I'm running like 4 12s.
I'll stick to 8 gauge probably.
 

ezdaar

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There is a huge grommet behind the distribution box by your feet on drivers side. pop the lid off then un clip the entire block from its mount for easy access.
I use a 1/4" round pipe that I shaped like a hyperdermic needle to peirce through the grommet.
Then I feed any old wire 2' long through it into engine bay.
Tape power wire to it, pull the pipe back out then lube the power wire with soapy water.
Then simply pull it through. Lube up the entire length of the power wire.

The channel under door sil is plenty big enough to hold the wire all the way back.
Then just tuck it under interior plastics along the way.
 

BeenChevy

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Came across this today for my Yukon project. If you don't feel like doing all the manual labor of the link listed above. They do sell bypass harnesses on ebay for around $35.
 

EricLoll

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Li
Thank you SUB

Now I will check that amp placement in the morning although I'm certain your correct.

As far as my ideas for bypassing and reusing the amp what are your thought.

Any other threads you can point me to or from your knowledge.
50 bollards line out converter. Or a good way a audio control lc6 or lc71 will let you and more highs and or amps. I outing a jl 10w3 in concert in tahoe ltz and keep oem factorydvd nav head unit and use a alpine or jve multimedia player for ipod and have more and cleaner power to rcas ect.
 

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