How to change your brakes on your 2007 Tahoe

[llllljrlllll]

Great info here... Especially for a Noob like me!

hope you can use it.

 

[llllljrlllll]

Just in case for those looking to change your brakes, the back ones are the same procedure

 

[krcossin]

llllljrlllll, I appreciate your pictorial instructional how to, however please remove/replace "Drum" with "Rotor", thanks good job we need more of these threads. Actually I would like to see a thread just for HOW TO's.

 

[llllljrlllll]

llllljrlllll, I appreciate your pictorial instructional how to, however please remove/replace "Drum" with "Rotor", thanks good job we need more of these threads. Actually I would like to see a thread just for HOW TO's.

That is some funny s#*t, 3,748 people have seen this thread, and nobody has said anything, even I, who re-read this plenty of times before posting. I didn't catch it. Good eye. And to top it all off, it was your first post on this forum. Man that must of bugged you alot.

 

[Steedog]

Thanks for this post. I have never done this BUT I feel like I can knock this out!

 

[llllljrlllll]

Thanks for this post. I have never done this BUT I feel like I can knock this out!

No Prob. If you have questions, you can email me at [email protected]

 

[domin8]

For 2007-2009 Tahoes, etc-

Discard front rotors at:

1.437" for RPO code JH6
1.083" for RPO code JD9

Discard rear rotors at:

1.083" for RPO JH6
0.709" for RPO JD9

If you need help finding your RPO codes use this link: http://www.compnine.com/vid.php

Torques specs for caliper bolts are:
front caliper to bracket: 74 ft-lb
front caliper to knuckle: 148 ft-lb
rear caliper to bracket: 28 ft-lb
rear caliper to knuckle: 148 ft-lb

For the Tahoes, Yukons, etc that have rear brake pads the part number is 1194, ceramic is the OE material. Parking brake shoes are 781.

Lug nut torque is 100 ft-lb.

 

[Yukon_]

getting ready to do the Mod for front brakes, using the 2007 13-inch rotors and bigger calipers, new pads on the 'ol 2001 Tahoe. Saw suggestion here: http://www.z71tahoe-suburban.com/iboard/lofiversion/index.php/t28846.html

 

[domin8]

I read into that thread a few months ago when I was looking at buying a GMT-800 Tahoe Z71. I was definitely going to do it, until I ended up with a GMT-900. I might still do it now that I've done some cross examination and discovered that the part numbers are completely different between mine (15904195) and the PPV/SSV calipers (19176793). It's an interesting find. My big concern is why are the OE calipers for non-PPV/SSV GMT-900 trucks more expensive than the PPV/SSV (~$30 difference each)?

 

[robgreg75]

You had many many miles left on the pads. Why change so early? Were old ones noisy?

 

[domin8]

I was wondering the same thing. Went back and looked at the pictures. Looks like the old pads were probably noisy since they weren't chamfered. New ones should be quieter for the OP since they are chamfered.

 

[06whitess]

Mine were just under half pad life when I swapped em. They literally felt like they were trying to stop a semi, all the way to the floor to start to stop... Replaced with Centrix rotors and ceramic pads courtesy of rotorpros, and MUCH, MUCH better braking!

 

[llllljrlllll]

I was wondering the same thing. Went back and looked at the pictures. Looks like the old pads were probably noisy since they weren't chamfered. New ones should be quieter for the OP since they are chamfered.

Sorry, just saw your question. Yeah they were squeeling already, and you know that sound to some people is utterly annoying. So I just swapped them out.

 

[04ctd]

other advice:

do not let the caliper hang by the hose, bend up a piece of coat hanger, or a bungee cord.
that will allow you to work with the rotor with both hands.

the reason the "wear indicator" tab goes to the inside, is you can reach in check the outer pads if you have tires off for rotation, or if you have open style rims.

FWIW-I would not recommend to leave the cap off of the brake fluid reservoir. Brake fluid is prone to moisture in the air just by leaving it uncapped. Great write up though!

you need to leave the cap loose to allow for expansion as the fluid from the caliper is forced back into the Master Cylinder. I usually leave the lid just laying on there, and wrap a rag around the hole.

the "jiffy lube" places LOVE to put brake fluid in when you are pads are wore, and when you put in new pads, there is too much fluid, and it goes everywhere, hence the rag around the filler neck.

Still on Step 6:

[/IMG]

Make sure all the pistons get pushed in with the c clam

I use an old pad, across both calipers, and push both back in at the same time. there is a little $9 tool available, also.

the plate goes against the inside of the outside arms of the caliper, and the screw part against the old pads, on the calipers.

i GOOGLEd forever, and only found one decent video on it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYnQxEjGq2A&feature=relmfu

Mine were just under half pad life when I swapped em. They literally felt like they were trying to stop a semi, all the way to the floor to start to stop... Replaced with Centrix rotors and ceramic pads courtesy of rotorpros, and MUCH, MUCH better braking!

need linkie. my 2007 is needing pads & may as well upgrade the rotors, too.

remember to pump your pedal a few times before you put it in DRIVE because you have to mash the pads back on to the rotor, since you completely compressed the calipers.

good write up, thanks.

 

[AZSCTACO]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5W0_rx0_YQ&feature=mh_lolz&list=FLq1MiXfr9rgcJTN2-DncdSA

 

[llllljrlllll]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5W0_rx0_YQ&feature=mh_lolz&list=FLq1MiXfr9rgcJTN2-DncdSA

This video is basically my steps, just in video form, and it also shows you how to change rotors and how easy it is. I don't have a camera to record, but this video is pretty good. Thanks AZSCTACO

 

[jmh8802]

Thanks for the great writeup. I will be doing this soon.

 

[jsmith14]

Nearly all cars these days have front disc brakes. Front brakes usually wear out more quickly than the rear brakes which could either be disc or drum brakes, so they need to be changed more often. You need to change brake pads when they get too thin, especially if they begin to make a persistent metallic squeaking or grinding noise when you press the brake pedal. But noise alone isn't always the best indicator, so it's best to anticipate when this will happen by periodically inspecting the thickness of the brake pads. Here are some guide you can use for how to replace brake pads.

 

[07whitetahoe]

A good tip- NEVER push the fluid back into the master cylinder. Always open the bleeder, push fluid out. Close bleeder when back. Then bleed afterwards. Pushing fluid through the master is a good way of ruining the seals inside it.

Also rotors should be machined or re-surfaced when changing pads, ALA the rotor is within specs. The new surface allows the pad the break into a fresh surface, it reduces chances of noises, and pad glazing.

Also, if you are not mechanically inclined, please leave brake repair to professionals. Brakes are a big deal, don't forget you are driving a 6000 lb. truck at high speeds, you could easily kill someone and yourself.

 

[04ctd]

A good tip- NEVER push the fluid back into the master cylinder. Always open the bleeder, push fluid out. Close bleeder when back. Then bleed afterwards. Pushing fluid through the master is a good way of ruining the seals inside it.

Also rotors should be machined or re-surfaced when changing pads, ALA the rotor is within specs. The new surface allows the pad the break into a fresh surface, it reduces chances of noises, and pad glazing.

Also, if you are not mechanically inclined, please leave brake repair to professionals. Brakes are a big deal, don't forget you are driving a 6000 lb. truck at high speeds, you could easily kill someone and yourself.

i think I may dis-agree with you, I would not open the brake system via the bleeder screw. that's opening a can of worms that most folks can't fix easily.

i would NOT have my rotors turned if they are good, most shops are not competent to turn rotors anymore. it's a lost art.

I took my new front rotors into have them checked, and the idiot said "they were true...but I turned them anyways..." and he ruined them: the left rotor has a big groove in the middle, and the right rotor is grooved all the way. now, if you emergency stop, the truck pulls to the left. (my rears were warped)

FWIW, it's easier to just buy new NAPA rotors (they are usually better than discount stores, and much better than OEM)

as for not doing them your self, as long as you don't open the bleeder screw, there's not much to it. use basic workmanship/craftmanship procedures, keep the rotors clean (best bet is to clean them with brake clean/carb clean right out the box, both sides, and AGAIN once you have them on)
and you don't hang the caliper by the hydraulic hose.
and torque them back properly
you should be good.
and you should know if you DO NOT have the basic skills to get it done.


YMMV, but if you put on new rotors & new pads, clean them, and torque them properly, you should be okay

not wanting to belabor the point, or e-fight about it, but I have taught all my friends to do their own brakes. it's several hundred to have a shop put on new rotors & pads, and you can do it yourself for a hundred or so.

and the "lifetime warranty" shop's put on cheap rotors, and super hard pads, that chew up the rotors, and THEN you find out the PADs are warrantied....NOT the rotors, and you start the cycle over again!!