Issue After Brake Rotor & Pad Replacement

[EddieC]

Just swapped out one front cv axle and front brake rotors and pads on both sides.

First drive after that gave a couple clunk sounds at first motion but not again but in about a 3 mile ride to put a bit of work into the brakes one of the wheels was hot an emitting a burning odor.

It is the side the axle was replaced.

The shock/spring assembly was released in the work so I might think the clunks could have been from the shock, perhaps not quite in the same spot as before (the top three stud mounting holes are slotted).

Caliper pin holes were cleaned as were the pins, pins greased as were the contact points on the pads to the shims and calipers.
Pads on that side fit easily.

The calipers were replaced with new Raybestos units and the fluid changed about 44,000 miles, 5 years ago.

If it might be brake related, how is a sticking caliper or collapsed brake line diagnosed?

One of the slide pins and it's bore in the problem side was pretty messed up, some gunk, some rust. I cleaned it up but it was tough pressing the pistons back in.
I think I'll give replacing the caliper a shot.

Any thoughts on the issue or any aftermarket caliper brands, new vs reconditioned?

 

[pronstar]

If it might be brake related, how is a sticking caliper or collapsed brake line diagnosed?


Any thoughts on the issue or any aftermarket caliper brands, new vs reconditioned?

Drive around your neighborhood, then return home. Get a heat gun and point it at both brakes. If one brake on the same axle is significantly hotter than the other, there’s your sticking caliper.

Calipers are cheap enough to just buy new. Get AC Delco / genuine GM, or pick a name brand you’ve heard of.

 

[EddieC]

Drive around your neighborhood, then return home. Get a heat gun and point it at both brakes. If one brake on the same axle is significantly hotter than the other, there’s your sticking caliper.

Calipers are cheap enough to just buy new. Get AC Delco / genuine GM, or pick a name brand you’ve heard of.

Oh it was definitely hotter, no heat gun needed.

 

[Doubeleive]

Just swapped out one front cv axle and front brake rotors and pads on both sides.

First drive after that gave a couple clunk sounds at first motion but not again but in about a 3 mile ride to put a bit of work into the brakes one of the wheels was hot an emitting a burning odor.

It is the side the axle was replaced.

The shock/spring assembly was released in the work so I might think the clunks could have been from the shock, perhaps not quite in the same spot as before (the top three stud mounting holes are slotted).

Caliper pin holes were cleaned as were the pins, pins greased as were the contact points on the pads to the shims and calipers.
Pads on that side fit easily.

The calipers were replaced with new Raybestos units and the fluid changed about 44,000 miles, 5 years ago.

If it might be brake related, how is a sticking caliper or collapsed brake line diagnosed?

One of the slide pins and it's bore in the problem side was pretty messed up, some gunk, some rust. I cleaned it up but it was tough pressing the pistons back in.
I think I'll give replacing the caliper a shot.

Any thoughts on the issue or any aftermarket caliper brands, new vs reconditioned?

I would recommend replacing them in pairs and not just one side
I would also recommend these, there coated and made for heat intensive use like towing, even if you do not tow.
there out of stock in the usual places but this seller has them at a good price and has decent feedback
beside's it's kind of hard to make knock off brake calipers since only like 3 company's even make calipers with the vast majority being oem use.
95% of the calipers out there are re-manufactured oem
these are new oem

https://www.ebay.com/itm/318381341648?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=318381341648&targetid=2449678320165&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032204&poi=&campaignid=23920418295&mkgroupid=200919365201&rlsatarget=aud-1412318123216:pla-2449678320165&abcId=9407521&merchantid=5447900139&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23920418295&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh-Dhg6VPNjL3TidgXXbkjOHo&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3K7RBhDJARIsAKRtP5QXLWGetIQvU9caWAow_jWlDG8npVIogpODR5xjQG-WfGxJxA0UxsoaAnqDEALw_wcB

 

[solli5pack]

How old are the brake hoses? They'll fail internally and you really can't tell from the outside and will lock up the brake. Just went through this with my Yukon. Hoses aren't too expensive and worth a guess. Just make sure to use a flare wrench if you're gonna change one.

 

[EddieC]

How old are the brake hoses? They'll fail internally and you really can't tell from the outside and will lock up the brake. Just went through this with my Yukon. Hoses aren't too expensive and worth a guess. Just make sure to use a flare wrench if you're gonna change one.

Original hoses but we live in rust country so I am afraid of touching the metal fittings.

 

[Foggy]

I always replace the hoses when I do calipers....
It's good practice as it's hard to diagnose a collapsed hose/line

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I recently had a pulling to the right situation when braking, even though the calipers were less than a year old. Turned out that the brake hose had failed, and the issue was resolved, when it was replaced. I had both replaced, so that I would not have a recurrence of this issue on the other side.

 

[Tahoe14]

If you decide on new brake lines start soaking the fittings now.

 

[EddieC]

I recently had a pulling to the right situation when braking, even though the calipers were less than a year old. Turned out that the brake hose had failed, and the issue was resolved, when it was replaced. I had both replaced, so that I would not have a recurrence of this issue on the other side.

My hoses are original from early 2008 so it is probably time whether my issue or not.

 

[EddieC]

I have a suspicion that the burning odor that I experienced was from the new Geomet coated rotors that I put on last week. I never had them before so I wasn't aware of their initial characteristics but just read that they can smell pretty strong during break in.

 

[mikez71]

My new bosch "quietcast' rotors and ceramic pads were smelling for the first few drives as well...
AI says it's resin in the pads curing.

 

[pronstar]

Yeah new/green brakes always smell… green pad fade is also a thing

 

[solli5pack]

I have a suspicion that the burning odor that I experienced was from the new Geomet coated rotors that I put on last week. I never had them before so I wasn't aware of their initial characteristics but just read that they can smell pretty strong during break in.

They shouldn't be giving off so much heat that you can feel it just by being close to the wheel. Any smoke coming off them?

 

[EddieC]

They shouldn't be giving off so much heat that you can feel it just by being close to the wheel. Any smoke coming off them?

No smoke. Perhaps new ceramic pads also contributed.

Second day out for a test and the heat is much less but I was less aggressive burnishing and the weather is 25 degrees cooler.

That's not to say there might not have been an intermittent freeze up or hiccup with the hose possibly having been bent when the caliper was hung out of the way.

This morning, jacked it up and the wheel spun freely before and after applying the brake.
Cautiously optimistic.

 

[JoeBlobs]

All good advice here. Upgrading the lines to braided stainless steel is an option as well.

A sticky caliper wouldn't explain the clunks though, have those come back at all?

 

[solli5pack]

This is how mine acted when the caliper got a little sticky. I ended up changing the caliper and brake hose but I should've just did thr hose first. I'm almost positive it was just the hose. The noise is the brakes cooling off...

 

[EddieC]

This is how mine acted when the caliper got a little sticky. I ended up changing the caliper and brake hose but I should've just did thr hose first. I'm almost positive it was just the hose. The noise is the brakes cooling off...

Wow. I didn't have that.

 

[EddieC]

All good advice here. Upgrading the lines to braided stainless steel is an option as well.

A sticky caliper wouldn't explain the clunks though, have those come back at all?

A clunk or two when first maneuvering turns in the driveway.
I can't say why but I seem to thing the strut may have something to do with it. They have just 50,000 miles on them.
Don't see crumbling top cushion but not much of it is visible. Nothing going down the road and hitting bumps.
I wondered if a smear of red rubber grease may be an option on the contact surfaces.
The springs have lost their coating but don't appear to have anything more noticible.

I also thought a test of disconnecting the sway bar that had a mount repaired would take it off the list.

 

[Doubeleive]

A clunk or two when first maneuvering turns in the driveway.
I can't say why but I seem to thing the strut may have something to do with it. They have just 50,000 miles on them.
Don't see crumbling top cushion but not much of it is visible. Nothing going down the road and hitting bumps.
I wondered if a smear of red rubber grease may be an option on the contact surfaces.
The springs have lost their coating but don't appear to have anything more noticible.

I also thought a test of disconnecting the sway bar that had a mount repaired would take it off the list.

when breaking in new pads/rotors you don't need to and should not go crazy with it. multiple 40-down to-20 "easy" braking over several blocks is all it takes. vary it up a little after that. 50-to-15, etc a few times. no full stops until you have done the above multiple times and when you do the full stop go easy. brakes get hot fast.
I would not go out and be going full throttle and then slamming on the brakes that just results in pad material getting dumped on the new rotors
a slight burning smell is not unusual for a few days depending on how much you drive, if you get that smell at break in time you over did it.