Issue After Brake Rotor & Pad Replacement

[EddieC]

Just swapped out one front cv axle and front brake rotors and pads on both sides.

First drive after that gave a couple clunk sounds at first motion but not again but in about a 3 mile ride to put a bit of work into the brakes one of the wheels was hot an emitting a burning odor.

It is the side the axle was replaced.

The shock/spring assembly was released in the work so I might think the clunks could have been from the shock, perhaps not quite in the same spot as before (the top three stud mounting holes are slotted).

Caliper pin holes were cleaned as were the pins, pins greased as were the contact points on the pads to the shims and calipers.
Pads on that side fit easily.

The calipers were replaced with new Raybestos units and the fluid changed about 44,000 miles, 5 years ago.

If it might be brake related, how is a sticking caliper or collapsed brake line diagnosed?

One of the slide pins and it's bore in the problem side was pretty messed up, some gunk, some rust. I cleaned it up but it was tough pressing the pistons back in.
I think I'll give replacing the caliper a shot.

Any thoughts on the issue or any aftermarket caliper brands, new vs reconditioned?

 

[pronstar]

If it might be brake related, how is a sticking caliper or collapsed brake line diagnosed?


Any thoughts on the issue or any aftermarket caliper brands, new vs reconditioned?

Drive around your neighborhood, then return home. Get a heat gun and point it at both brakes. If one brake on the same axle is significantly hotter than the other, there’s your sticking caliper.

Calipers are cheap enough to just buy new. Get AC Delco / genuine GM, or pick a name brand you’ve heard of.

 

[EddieC]

Drive around your neighborhood, then return home. Get a heat gun and point it at both brakes. If one brake on the same axle is significantly hotter than the other, there’s your sticking caliper.

Calipers are cheap enough to just buy new. Get AC Delco / genuine GM, or pick a name brand you’ve heard of.

Oh it was definitely hotter, no heat gun needed.

 

[Doubeleive]

Just swapped out one front cv axle and front brake rotors and pads on both sides.

First drive after that gave a couple clunk sounds at first motion but not again but in about a 3 mile ride to put a bit of work into the brakes one of the wheels was hot an emitting a burning odor.

It is the side the axle was replaced.

The shock/spring assembly was released in the work so I might think the clunks could have been from the shock, perhaps not quite in the same spot as before (the top three stud mounting holes are slotted).

Caliper pin holes were cleaned as were the pins, pins greased as were the contact points on the pads to the shims and calipers.
Pads on that side fit easily.

The calipers were replaced with new Raybestos units and the fluid changed about 44,000 miles, 5 years ago.

If it might be brake related, how is a sticking caliper or collapsed brake line diagnosed?

One of the slide pins and it's bore in the problem side was pretty messed up, some gunk, some rust. I cleaned it up but it was tough pressing the pistons back in.
I think I'll give replacing the caliper a shot.

Any thoughts on the issue or any aftermarket caliper brands, new vs reconditioned?

I would recommend replacing them in pairs and not just one side
I would also recommend these, there coated and made for heat intensive use like towing, even if you do not tow.
there out of stock in the usual places but this seller has them at a good price and has decent feedback
beside's it's kind of hard to make knock off brake calipers since only like 3 company's even make calipers with the vast majority being oem use.
95% of the calipers out there are re-manufactured oem
these are new oem

https://www.ebay.com/itm/318381341648?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=318381341648&targetid=2449678320165&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032204&poi=&campaignid=23920418295&mkgroupid=200919365201&rlsatarget=aud-1412318123216:pla-2449678320165&abcId=9407521&merchantid=5447900139&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23920418295&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh-Dhg6VPNjL3TidgXXbkjOHo&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3K7RBhDJARIsAKRtP5QXLWGetIQvU9caWAow_jWlDG8npVIogpODR5xjQG-WfGxJxA0UxsoaAnqDEALw_wcB

 

[solli5pack]

How old are the brake hoses? They'll fail internally and you really can't tell from the outside and will lock up the brake. Just went through this with my Yukon. Hoses aren't too expensive and worth a guess. Just make sure to use a flare wrench if you're gonna change one.

 

[EddieC]

How old are the brake hoses? They'll fail internally and you really can't tell from the outside and will lock up the brake. Just went through this with my Yukon. Hoses aren't too expensive and worth a guess. Just make sure to use a flare wrench if you're gonna change one.

Original hoses but we live in rust country so I am afraid of touching the metal fittings.