2008 Yukon Denali - $3000 dollars in repairs and I still have P0171 and P069E DTCs.

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Gildan

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This is getting insanely frustrating.

2008 Yuke with 6.2L. Replaced rotted out leaking fuel pump, now I have unending p0171 and p069e codes that only occur on a cold start-up or if the motor is off while hot for more than 15 minutes. The codes pop up exactly 30 seconds after startup (a provisional code for both and an actual code that lights the CEL).

Here is what has been done:

Four independent diagnostic processed by four independent mechanics and two diagnostic attempts by two stealerships - every one insisted a new fuel pump was needed and I have now been through four new OEM GM pumps and the error codes keep popping up:

Fuel pressure on the rail is where it should be as is the fuel pressure from the pump. All live data, etc., is perfect.

No issues with the wiring harnesses, voltages and signals.

Each component (fuel pump, FPCM, ECM, Fuel Rail Sensor and anything else related you can possibly imagine) check out OK. Yes, we even tried a new FPCM and reflashed the ECM even after each component checked out as working perfectly fine.

There are no performance issues with the vehicle at all but these codes keep getting set. The vehicle has been driven at least 1000 miles (as each of the mechanics/techs suggested) to see if the problem goes away. It does not. Erase the error codes and they come back on the next cold start after exactly 30 seconds twice, or after you let a hot engine sit for more than 15 minutes exactly (and then 30 seconds after a start, here comes the codes again.

The only thing I can think of is that the fuel pressure sensor has a temperature related fault that only occurs under two specific conditions. The GM service manuals are silent on all possible causes beyond what the manuals say are possible.

I find it statistically hard to believe that the fuel rail pressure sensor should coincidentally fail just exactly at the same time the fuel pump is replaced. And, I know if I waste my time replacing the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor, the issue will not be fixed knowing my luck.

One mechanic suggested that it could be because the gas distributors are boosting the ethanol content to 15% (the last batch of fuel I bought I tested as having upwards of 20% to 25% ethanol. No kidding) and that excessive ethanol can F up the pressure sensor or otherwise trick the sensor into thinking the fuel pressure is off (ethanol compresses in liquid form than gasoline and excessive ethanol gasoline will compress at an even higher ratio - I simple vapor pressure fluid mechanics equation and lead to a faulty data signal on a worn, old sensor). Either way, the engine temperature and time the motor is off while hot seems to be related to this issue. Once the motor is up to temperature and the code is erased, the problem subsides until the next cold start or start after sitting for 15 minutes.

One question is involving the P0191 code which is only described as a "performance range issue" involving the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. Does this imply a fuel pressure issue or an issue with the sensor itself before the motor even starts? The 'provisional' codes appear to be set between turning on the ignition switch and actually cranking the motor. Again, if I erase the codes while the motor is running after the CEL illuminates, the issue doesn't occur thereafter until the next cold start or the motor is off for more than 15 minutes while warm.

What am I and all the mechanics missing here? I have a feeling it's something obvious that no one can think of. Do I potentially waste my time running down this problem or do I just sell it to the next unsuspecting slob with full disclosure just to recover the $3000 I have already dumped into fixing this unsolvable problem? Or should I just ignore the error codes and keep driving it until it takes a dirt nap or drive it down to West Memphis, pull the plates, leave the keys, hang a sign on it that says "steal me" and collect the insurance? (That last one is a joke... maybe, LOL!).

But seriously, what is everyone missing with this issue?
 

dkad260

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I wonder if the PCM is seeing a pressure drop and thinking it's the sensor. Wouldn't higher ethanol percentages correlate to a longer injector cycle? Also, maybe you have a leaky injector as well compounding things.

This is going on the possibility of a high ethanol content. Do you have an app like Torque Pro or similar to see the fuel trims? Was it an aftermarket fuel pump? Edit...nm, I see it was OE pumps.
 

solli5pack

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If you look up the codes on all data it will describe the conditions that must be present to generate the fault. Then with a scanner checkout freeze frame data for when the code was set and maybe you can trace down what's triggering the issue.
 

mikez71

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So you have not replaced the fuel line pressure sensor yet?
(Because it's cheap and much easier than the fuel pumps..)

Range issue means it's getting a reading, but it's not what the fpcm expects.
Could be high or low or varies too much/too little.

Even though pressure is good, you might want to compare gauge readings with sensor readings..
(maybe you have since you said fuel rail pressure and fpcm checks out?)

I would think the two specific condtions are when the fpcm runs it's checks..
(cold start or startup 15+mins since last run.)
BUT charm.li says:

Conditions for Running the DTC
The ignition is ON, or the engine is running for greater than 3 s.

Conditions for Setting the DTC
The fuel pump control module requests the ECM to illuminate the MIL.

Which makes me think it's something that runs continuously, after 3 seconds on runtime..
But for some reason the code pops up after 30 seconds?
Maybe that's how long it takes to go from provisional code to CEL? Dunno..

And you say you also have a P0171 code? Or was that a typo?
 
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Doubeleive

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This is getting insanely frustrating.

2008 Yuke with 6.2L. Replaced rotted out leaking fuel pump, now I have unending p0171 and p069e codes that only occur on a cold start-up or if the motor is off while hot for more than 15 minutes. The codes pop up exactly 30 seconds after startup (a provisional code for both and an actual code that lights the CEL).

Here is what has been done:

Four independent diagnostic processed by four independent mechanics and two diagnostic attempts by two stealerships - every one insisted a new fuel pump was needed and I have now been through four new OEM GM pumps and the error codes keep popping up:

Fuel pressure on the rail is where it should be as is the fuel pressure from the pump. All live data, etc., is perfect.

No issues with the wiring harnesses, voltages and signals.

Each component (fuel pump, FPCM, ECM, Fuel Rail Sensor and anything else related you can possibly imagine) check out OK. Yes, we even tried a new FPCM and reflashed the ECM even after each component checked out as working perfectly fine.

There are no performance issues with the vehicle at all but these codes keep getting set. The vehicle has been driven at least 1000 miles (as each of the mechanics/techs suggested) to see if the problem goes away. It does not. Erase the error codes and they come back on the next cold start after exactly 30 seconds twice, or after you let a hot engine sit for more than 15 minutes exactly (and then 30 seconds after a start, here comes the codes again.

The only thing I can think of is that the fuel pressure sensor has a temperature related fault that only occurs under two specific conditions. The GM service manuals are silent on all possible causes beyond what the manuals say are possible.

I find it statistically hard to believe that the fuel rail pressure sensor should coincidentally fail just exactly at the same time the fuel pump is replaced. And, I know if I waste my time replacing the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor, the issue will not be fixed knowing my luck.

One mechanic suggested that it could be because the gas distributors are boosting the ethanol content to 15% (the last batch of fuel I bought I tested as having upwards of 20% to 25% ethanol. No kidding) and that excessive ethanol can F up the pressure sensor or otherwise trick the sensor into thinking the fuel pressure is off (ethanol compresses in liquid form than gasoline and excessive ethanol gasoline will compress at an even higher ratio - I simple vapor pressure fluid mechanics equation and lead to a faulty data signal on a worn, old sensor). Either way, the engine temperature and time the motor is off while hot seems to be related to this issue. Once the motor is up to temperature and the code is erased, the problem subsides until the next cold start or start after sitting for 15 minutes.

One question is involving the P0191 code which is only described as a "performance range issue" involving the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. Does this imply a fuel pressure issue or an issue with the sensor itself before the motor even starts? The 'provisional' codes appear to be set between turning on the ignition switch and actually cranking the motor. Again, if I erase the codes while the motor is running after the CEL illuminates, the issue doesn't occur thereafter until the next cold start or the motor is off for more than 15 minutes while warm.

What am I and all the mechanics missing here? I have a feeling it's something obvious that no one can think of. Do I potentially waste my time running down this problem or do I just sell it to the next unsuspecting slob with full disclosure just to recover the $3000 I have already dumped into fixing this unsolvable problem? Or should I just ignore the error codes and keep driving it until it takes a dirt nap or drive it down to West Memphis, pull the plates, leave the keys, hang a sign on it that says "steal me" and collect the insurance? (That last one is a joke... maybe, LOL!).

But seriously, what is everyone missing with this issue?
sounds like you just need a better diagnostic to get to the root of the problem.
so... do you own a scanner that see live data>? i.e. what the reported fuel pressure is in real time.
 

Fless

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Why open another thread on this issue? You already have one going:


P0171 indicates lean condition on Bank 1.


What do the fuel trims look like?
 
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j91z28d1

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a scanner that can show you the snap shot of the data happening while the code was set might help see what is actually triggering the codes.

also I have a pdf saved that might help break down what perimeters are being seen to set the code. it's for my hybrid, but fuel system is the same, and should be the same codes.
 

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dkad260

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So you have not replaced the fuel line pressure sensor yet?
(Because it's cheap and much easier than the fuel pumps..)
I agree and I believe this is one of those situations that warrants the replacement of the fuel pressure sensor just to be sure. Perhaps some debris made it into the fuel line during the pump change since the top of these tanks can get pretty nasty over time....thus ending up at the sensor. This is why I would at least remove the sensor and take a look, if not replacing it.
 
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Gildan

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I wonder if the PCM is seeing a pressure drop and thinking it's the sensor. Wouldn't higher ethanol percentages correlate to a longer injector cycle? Also, maybe you have a leaky injector as well compounding things.

This is going on the possibility of a high ethanol content. Do you have an app like Torque Pro or similar to see the fuel trims? Was it an aftermarket fuel pump? Edit...nm, I see it was OE pumps.

I figured out what is happening - Detailed description at the bottom of the post.

If you look up the codes on all data it will describe the conditions that must be present to generate the fault. Then with a scanner checkout freeze frame data for when the code was set and maybe you can trace down what's triggering the issue.

I discovered the issue upon watching the live date (see end of this post).

So you have not replaced the fuel line pressure sensor yet?
(Because it's cheap and much easier than the fuel pumps..)

Range issue means it's getting a reading, but it's not what the fpcm expects.
Could be high or low or varies too much/too little.

Even though pressure is good, you might want to compare gauge readings with sensor readings..
(maybe you have since you said fuel rail pressure and fpcm checks out?)

I would think the two specific condtions are when the fpcm runs it's checks..
(cold start or startup 15+mins since last run.)
BUT charm.li says:

Conditions for Running the DTC
The ignition is ON, or the engine is running for greater than 3 s.

Conditions for Setting the DTC
The fuel pump control module requests the ECM to illuminate the MIL.

Which makes me think it's something that runs continuously, after 3 seconds on runtime..
But for some reason the code pops up after 30 seconds?
Maybe that's how long it takes to go from provisional code to CEL? Dunno..

And you say you also have a P0171 code? Or was that a typo?

It's a P0171 that is up and triggering the ECM to query the FPCM - it's the brand new pump - defective.

sounds like you just need a better diagnostic to get to the root of the problem.
so... do you own a scanner that see live data>? i.e. what the reported fuel pressure is in real time.

I did another diagnosis today and it is the fuel pump.

Why open another thread on this issue? You already have one going:


P0171 indicates lean condition on Bank 1.


What do the fuel trims look like?

Fuel trim is fine, long and short are within normal specs.

a scanner that can show you the snap shot of the data happening while the code was set might help see what is actually triggering the codes.

also I have a pdf saved that might help break down what perimeters are being seen to set the code. it's for my hybrid, but fuel system is the same, and should be the same codes.

I discovered what was going on - brand new fuel pump defective right out of the box.

I agree and I believe this is one of those situations that warrants the replacement of the fuel pressure sensor just to be sure. Perhaps some debris made it into the fuel line during the pump change since the top of these tanks can get pretty nasty over time....thus ending up at the sensor. This is why I would at least remove the sensor and take a look, if not replacing it.

OK, here's the final diagnosis -

The static fuel pressure on cold start is 45ps on the rail. Start the motor and the pressure will go up to about 54 PSI and then exactly 30 seconds in it drops to about 40 psi and then down to 35 psi. If I let the motor run, the fuel rail pressure will top out at 45 psi to 50 psi and hang out there for a while and then wobble around between 45 and 50 (confirmed mechanically and by live data). If I start and stop the motor several times (about 7 or so) and erase the codes, I get a static and running PSI of a consistent 50 psi on the rail.

The fuel pressure sensor is sending correct data and it seems the fuel pump is not up to the required 55 psi - 60 psi mimumum which will trip the p069e and p0171 DTCs.

There is, however, the very, very remote possibility that the fuel rail pressure sensor might be failing and reading low which can have the FPCM send incorrect data to the ECM, which in turn will tell the FPCM to drop tell the pump to send insufficient fuel. It's also highly unlikely that the fuel pressure sensor would fail like this and not throw a p087 (I think that's the code), and it's highly unlikely that the pressure sensor would fail in any manner coincidentally at exactly the same time the fuel pump was changed. I see no indication from the live data or otherwise that the rail pressure sensor failed or is wonky. However, I will change the fuel rail pressure sensor just for sh*ts and giggles if there is any remote chance that I won't have to drop that fuel tank again.

A GMC service department manager here in Arkansas said that it's entirely possible to get any number of defective fuel pumps in a row from the GMC Parts department because these parts are made/assembled in Mexico and are notorious for not having any quality control whatsoever. Hopefully, it might be a bad or sticky fuel rail pressure sensor - it would be a total statistical freak but I have always found that a one in a million possibility will happe nine out of ten times. At least to me. If there are 100 parts on the shelf, I will get the defective one ever single time without fail.

But all the indicators across the board tell me the brand new, out of the box fuel pump is just not up to minimum specs (which would be typical of GMC). Any additional thoughts on this one?
 

dkad260

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There are no performance issues with the vehicle at all but these codes keep getting set


If you get 35 PSI static it would be a safe bet you would notice a driveability issue. Edit to say, I'm not saying you wouldn't notice it, I'm saying it's not likely 35 psi otherwise you would likely notice it and you are saying it drives fine.


I have now been through four new OEM GM pumps and the error codes keep popping up



Four pumps and the same sensor, and all this started after the first fuel pump change correct?

Any additional thoughts on this one?


I'm not saying you couldn't have a batch of faulty pumps, you are seeing low and erratic pressure and it drives fine. If that were mine, before I pulled the tank down again, I would replace the sensor because I still feel there's a small possibility a piece of debris made it into the line and ended up at the sensor. Even if there was no debris, I also feel the cost and labor involved with replacing the sensor, far outweighs the repeat uncertainty and frustration of not knowing if the presure is actually accurate causing you personal down time of dealing with the dealerships. Becasue as of now, you still aren't 100% the pressure readings are correct.
 
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j91z28d1

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4 does seem like a lot and these engines stock don't really need a ton of fuel volume compared to say one built with a big cam or boost.


if you pull up in your scanner there will be a target fuel pressure and a actual fuel pressure. see if those march. the fuel module will also show the trims needed for the pump to hit target fuel. if it doesn't match what it expects us needed pwm wise.


let us know if a 5th new oem. pump fixes it.
 

mikez71

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He did say he checked pressure with a mechanical gauge.
I agree, 4 faulty pumps in a row seems as unlikely as anything else.. The dealerships should have to re-imburse you if that's the case.

Particularly the fact that they pop codes in such a precise timeframe.. (which makes the sensor seem unlikely as well)

If you do have a P0171, that shouldn't be caused by the fuel pump, or it should affect both banks?

And if I had 4 bad OEM pumps in a row, I don't think I'd go with OEM next time around!

Weird!
Looking forward to the confirmed fix!
 
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Fless

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The KOEO fuel pressure spec is here, provided I selected the correct vehicle:


Screenshot from 2026-04-28 18-47-39.png
 

Doubeleive

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holy crap post mess,,,,,,
anyway other than a drop to 40 & then 35 the fuel pressure is perfectly normal
these engines do not run on 50/55+++ running psi unless it is commanded for some specific reason
NORMAL operating PSI is 43/44 (engine on), key-on/engine off should be 50-55+
the older gmt800's did run on 50-55 psi (engine on)
the only edition of the gmt900's that run on higher fuel pressure is the hybrids those run 55-60psi+.
It's all in the factory service manual
fuel.JPG

you might want to check the fpcm harness, the module is exposed to the elements and this can happen
fuel4.jpg
 
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Gildan

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If you get 35 PSI static it would be a safe bet you would notice a driveability issue. Edit to say, I'm not saying you wouldn't notice it, I'm saying it's not likely 35 psi otherwise you would likely notice it and you are saying it drives fine.






Four pumps and the same sensor, and all this started after the first fuel pump change correct?




I'm not saying you couldn't have a batch of faulty pumps, you are seeing low and erratic pressure and it drives fine. If that were mine, before I pulled the tank down again, I would replace the sensor because I still feel there's a small possibility a piece of debris made it into the line and ended up at the sensor. Even if there was no debris, I also feel the cost and labor involved with replacing the sensor, far outweighs the repeat uncertainty and frustration of not knowing if the presure is actually accurate causing you personal down time of dealing with the dealerships. Becasue as of now, you still aren't 100% the pressure readings are correct.

It started after I replaced the rusted out pump. It turns out that it isn't the pump. It was an ECM error (I'll explain at the bottom of the post).
4 does seem like a lot and these engines stock don't really need a ton of fuel volume compared to say one built with a big cam or boost.


if you pull up in your scanner there will be a target fuel pressure and a actual fuel pressure. see if those march. the fuel module will also show the trims needed for the pump to hit target fuel. if it doesn't match what it expects us needed pwm wise.


let us know if a 5th new oem. pump fixes it.

He did say he checked pressure with a mechanical gauge.
I agree, 4 faulty pumps in a row seems as unlikely as anything else.. The dealerships should have to re-imburse you if that's the case.

Particularly the fact that they pop codes in such a precise timeframe.. (which makes the sensor seem unlikely as well)

If you do have a P0171, that shouldn't be caused by the fuel pump, or it should affect both banks?

And if I had 4 bad OEM pumps in a row, I don't think I'd go with OEM next time around!

Weird!
Looking forward to the confirmed fix!
P0191 code.
If the 35 psi was verified with a mechanical gauge that does change things...and not from live OBD data.

Mechanical data identical to the live data.
The KOEO fuel pressure spec is here, provided I selected the correct vehicle:


View attachment 483903

And the pump was not up to specs, but it wasn't the pump. (see bottom for explanation).
holy crap post mess,,,,,,
anyway other than a drop to 40 & then 35 the fuel pressure is perfectly normal
these engines do not run on 50/55+++ running psi unless it is commanded for some specific reason
NORMAL operating PSI is 43/44 (engine on), key-on/engine off should be 50-55+
the older gmt800's did run on 50-55 psi (engine on)
the only edition of the gmt900's that run on higher fuel pressure is the hybrids those run 55-60psi+.
It's all in the factory service manual
View attachment 483918
you might want to check the fpcm harness, the module is exposed to the elements and this can happen
View attachment 483919

OK, I figured out why I was getting those codes and it is rather bizarre, but I fixed the issue.

Here's what I found out - The new pump is fine, the fuel rail pressure sensor is fine (no positive or negative creep), no electrical issues, the FPCM is fine. All the components involved test to be in perfect order. Now, this is where it gets really bizarre:

I took a random dive into intuitive random ideas and I theorized that the ECM had some kind of glitch and/or was operating on incorrect or corrupted stored performance data. I concluded that somehow, some volatile memory issue in the ECM had occurred. So, as the result of a totally off the wall theory, I simply pulled the ECM fuse and waited half an hour for the volatile memory to erase (poor man's reset) rather than doing a reset by disconnecting the negative battery terminal. And voilà! Problem solved!

What I surmised happened was that before replacing the fuel pump(s) I disconnected the battery terminals in the correct order and reconnected them in the proper order. In the process there must have been a power surge or spike that caused the ECM go wonky by corrupting something in the volatile memory that records performance data and holds certain self generating routine files. I have seen similar things happen with ECMs, So, the least traumatic method to reset the ECM was to simply pull the fuse and reset it. It apparently worked. I restarted the vehicle and let it idle sufficiently for the ECM to adjust itself with a fresh data set, took it for a drive and no DTCs. I let the motor cool off for a couple of hours and took it for a drive and no DTCs. So, it appears to be running correctly so far.

Apparently, there is enough draw on the battery while the vehicle is off that when you reconnect the battery, there can be a very brief high voltage peak due to any spark you might get when reconnecting the negative terminal. A small spark takes upwards of 3,000 volts albeit at very high impedence. In this instance, a spark of 3kV/mm can send a brief voltage spike of 3kV through an entire electrical system - not enough to damage anything but enough to make the memory in an ECM hiccup and act strange until you pull the fuse where the impedance of any spark is so low that virtually nothing will happen (especially when the ECM is drawing only enough current to keep the volitile memory alive.

At any rate, whether my intutive theory is correct or not, it solved the problem and now the fuel pressure at the rail is exactly where it should be and the fuel pump is responding properly to the FPCM and ECM.
 

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Gildan

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holy crap post mess,,,,,,
anyway other than a drop to 40 & then 35 the fuel pressure is perfectly normal
these engines do not run on 50/55+++ running psi unless it is commanded for some specific reason
NORMAL operating PSI is 43/44 (engine on), key-on/engine off should be 50-55+
the older gmt800's did run on 50-55 psi (engine on)
the only edition of the gmt900's that run on higher fuel pressure is the hybrids those run 55-60psi+.
It's all in the factory service manual
View attachment 483918
you might want to check the fpcm harness, the module is exposed to the elements and this can happen
View attachment 483919

I've had it with this 2008 Yukon There's no fixing it at all. I'm stripping out all the new parts I put into this issue, returning them all for my money back and sending off the crusher at this point.

I have gone through a total of 7 defective out of the box GM OEM fuel pumps from the dealership, 3 of them today. Every single one had insufficient fuel pressure or some other issue that caused the same problems.

I have replaced and verified all the associated wiring harnesses and electrical grounds.

I have replaced the whole computer system and every related module we could think of including the FPCM. We reflashed the computer five times.

I have replaced the fuel rail pressure sensor.

After multiple extensive and expensive diagnostics by the best mechanics that can be found here all found no reason whatsoever for this to be constantly throwing P0171 and P069E other than the possibility that you can't get a fuel pump that works for this vehicle. They went over this vehicle from top to bottom and found absolutely no reason for these codes to keep popping up. Everything absolutely possible has been done and still the same results and no one can figure it out other than the possibility that every single fuel pump is bad from the factory.

Every mechanic, including the service managers at 4 different dealership advised to just junk it because it will only get worse because you simply can't get replacement parts that will work at any price.

At this point, I don't want to even try one more fuel pump because it'll just be another defective from the factory part because all indications is that it will just be another waste of time. I have simply run out of any and all possible and even impossible solutions to fix this problem. I never thought a new fuel pump would turn into a never ending recurring nightmare like this. This is clearly a problem that will never be solved because no one can figure it out and I can't afford to drain my bank account any more than I already have.

It's a shame because the vehicle is in pristine condition inside and out and I am left with no choice but to strip it clean and what no one will buy from it will go strait to the crusher. Unless someone else has an idea, it's getting junked. The frustration meter is pinned.
 
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Gildan

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The KOEO fuel pressure spec is here, provided I selected the correct vehicle:


View attachment 483903
I tried that. The fuel pressure key on is 40 - 48 psi and fluctuates with every key turn. One time it will be 30, the next will be 48, then all random pressures with each key on test. The live data coincides with mechanical gauges exactly. Pressure drops even lower when the motor is running. The only other possibility is that the 15% ethanol fuel is more than the vehicle can handle (the owners manual says NEVER use any fuel that is more than 10% ethanol - and the fuel around here in Northeast Arkansas is running 20% and higher and the distributors are getting away with it and do so with impunity).

I've tried everything, the mechanics tried everything, two dealerships tried everything, and they've all thrown up their hands in frustration because they are seeing this particular problem suddenly running rampant. And any replacement parts, even the highest quality parts, are defective or substandard. Several mechanics said for me to just give up because the problems will only get worse.
 

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