Oil pickup tube o-ring replacement

[setha8]

Some of you are going to laugh if you saw my recent thread about a valve spring breaking. One day after fixing that and getting back on the road, I get the "no oil pressure" issue caused by the oil pickup tube o-ring problem. Another "classic" issue with these cars. Anyway, curious while I have the pan off, is there anything else I should be looking at or inspecting down there regarding engine health or maintenance?

 

[Sir_Hiro]

Depending on miles I would replace the pump with a quality unit.

 

[Coveman]

Quick, go buy a lottery ticket you’re due for a payday!

 

[setha8]

Depending on miles I would replace the pump with a quality unit.

Oil pump I assume you mean? I got 150k miles on it.

 

[setha8]

Quick, go buy a lottery ticket you’re due for a payday!

I will say now that I'm at this stage in the life of this vehicle, I'm really glad I got a late year model of the generation. Not that I won't eventually run into all the same problems, but I think some of the things like the "PVC" of the rocker cover aren't as bad (I have the "fixed" rocker cover, which isn't 100% fixed, but apparently a lot better than the older design) and haven't contributed to as hasty a demise as earlier year models.

I'm also glad that I started doing my own repairs, because I've learned some of the things to look for from these forums and maybe I will be able to tackle some of the bigger issues when they happen.

 

[West 1]

I will go the opposite direction on the oil pump. If your oil pressure was good prior to the o ring failing. Good Hot Idle and Good at RPM the pump is fine. If pressure was low at RPM I would certainly think about a new oil pump.
On a older engine I would upgrade to the Melling High Volume pump for peace of mind.

To remove the Oil pump adds a lot of tear down not needed for the oil pan removal. Front Harmonic balancer, water pump and timing cover would have to come off.

An Oil pump has the very best supply of oil inside your engine. Typically it is the very last part to wear out. Unless you have been running dirty oil to wear it out and stick the pressure relief valve the pump should be good for many more miles. (300K)

With the pan off you have access to the secondary Oil Pressure relief valve inside the oil pan. That can be replaced if you have AFM or eliminated if your engine is not AFM equipped. If one of these fail you lose oil pressure buy a new GM part and install it.

The Oil cooler cover on the side of the oil pan is known to leak and be a problem. The last few of those I have done I have started using 2 of the metal gaskets to seal that area. Each gasket has a pressed bump around the sealing ports. The bump compresses as you tighten the cover and seals the cover. By using two gaskets and flipping them so both bumps are opposing each other you double the sealing ability of that type gasket. (like MLS on head gaskets). They are cheap so cheap insurance and it is a pain to find a leak after doing all that work.

GM also has a diverter at the secondary oil pressure relief that was added in the later years, this helps avoid the relief from spraying excess oil on your pistons and helps avoid oil consumption. Again, the newer GM engines have this at the factory, the older designs did not. Another cheap part that can add improvement if yours was not equipped at the factory.

Make sure your new O ring is correct. There are 2 or 3 design changes. Melling has good information on which to use based on the shape of your Oil Pick Up tube.

 

[setha8]

Thanks for all the helpful info. Mine is a 2012 for reference. I think the oil pump is good, because the symptom was at start pressure seemed fine, then dropped as I drove. My mechanic told me about the dip stick test where you look for bubbles on the dipstick, and sure enough that's exactly what I saw. I just got the pickup tube off and the o-ring doesn't look like it's in great shape (mishapen, flat on one side), so fingers crossed this is my issue. I bought a Felpro o-ring because I didn't feel like buying the GM "5-pack" for 50 bucks, lol. I did match their part number using my vehicle info, but I will double check it to be safe.

I believe the oil cooler cover was already replaced back when I just took my car to the shop for all its repairs, but I hear that these don't last all that long. I will make a note of what you said next time I see a leak from that area.

Thank you for telling me about that secondary oil relief valve. My model does have the deflector, so that's nice.

 

[j91z28d1]

check the oil pressure sensor first.. while the o ring gets a lot of hype, I've notice it never really fixes anything. especially if it happened ******. change with a oem sensor, not from Amazon or ebay. dealer or rock auto. might even charge oil if it's old. I've found if you ask the dealer if they can price match rock auto they well say no, but usually take a little off. that with shipping comes out to about the same.

the o ring is really only good for a few psi even if it's literally falling apart. while you're there. do a high volume oil pump. Just about everyone that does the o rings ends up going back in and adding a high volume pump.

 

[LsHart]

Oil pump I assume you mean? I got 150k miles on it.

Get ready to pull front timing cover.

 

[Fless]

I'm with @West 1; since you had ok oil pressure before, see how it goes first with just the pickup o-ring.

 

[West 1]

When the O ring fails you lose suction. The pump can't pick up oil on start up as quick as it should. That can be fatal pretty quick.

On install you can feel if the pick up tube O ring goes in tight or loose. Should be very snug. You have a lot of leverage with the pick up tube to push it up there but it should fit snug so air is not pulled around the o ring on start up.

On my 08 Denali I was not happy with the fit of the Melling or Fel Pro o rings, they just felt to loose to my judgement. I ended up installing it with 2 O rings. There is plenty of room and no where for the second Oring to cause any problems so I figured, why not?
It has been in there nearly a year now. Extra insurance. I have never talked with another person or shop that has done this so not a recommendation just my 2 cents.

 

[LsHart]

I have heard about people replacing the oil pump and the pickup tube o ring failed.

 

[swathdiver]

Some of you are going to laugh if you saw my recent thread about a valve spring breaking. One day after fixing that and getting back on the road, I get the "no oil pressure" issue caused by the oil pickup tube o-ring problem. Another "classic" issue with these cars. Anyway, curious while I have the pan off, is there anything else I should be looking at or inspecting down there regarding engine health or maintenance?

Just did this a few weeks ago to one of mine.

We replaced the oil pressure relief valve in the pan and since it was a 2009, the little deflector they came out with later to direct oil down into the pan instead of spraying everywhere.

Replaced the oil pan plug too, why not, it was 17 years old!

GM OE - Plug - Engine Oil Pan P 1 11562588
GM OE - Valve - Relief - Oil Pressure P 1 12608835
GM OE - O-Ring - Oil Pump Pickup Tube P 2 12584922
GM OE - Gasket - Engine Oil Pan P 1 12612350
GM OE - Gasket - Engine Oil Cooler P 2 15203889
GM OE - Melling - Deflector - Oil Pressure Relief Valve P 1 12639759
Improved Racing - Oil Pump Pickup Tube Girdle P 1 EGM-500
GM OE - Gasket - Engine Oil Pan P 1 12612350
Permatex - The Right Stuff - 90 Minute Gasket Maker - Black P 1 25228

These are the parts we used. I did not use the girdle because I misplaced it the day we went to do the work. It's still in a good place where it won't get lost! LOL

The Permatex is for the 4 corners of the new oil pan gasket.

 

[setha8]

check the oil pressure sensor first.. while the o ring gets a lot of hype, I've notice it never really fixes anything. especially if it happened ******. change with a oem sensor, not from Amazon or ebay. dealer or rock auto. might even charge oil if it's old. I've found if you ask the dealer if they can price match rock auto they well say no, but usually take a little off. that with shipping comes out to about the same.

the o ring is really only good for a few psi even if it's literally falling apart. while you're there. do a high volume oil pump. Just about everyone that does the o rings ends up going back in and adding a high volume pump.

I did change the oil pressure sender first. No change in behavior. As I understand one of the failure modes with the o-ring is that if it loses seal, the oil pump pulls air with oil, which cavitates the oil, leading to losing pressure gradually. That's why you can see bubbles in the oil on the dipstick.

 

[Scrappycrow]

As I understand one of the failure modes with the o-ring is that if it loses seal, the oil pump pulls air with oil, which cavitates the oil, leading to losing pressure gradually. That's why you can see bubbles in the oil on the dipstick.

To be pedantic, it aerates the oil. Cavitation involves the fluid itself transitioning to a vapor state under an instantaneous vacuum condition and then collapsing back on itself (e.g. water pumps, fuel pumps, boat propellers, ultrasonic cleaners).

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I did change the oil pressure sender first. No change in behavior. As I understand one of the failure modes with the o-ring is that if it loses seal, the oil pump pulls air with oil, which cavitates the oil, leading to losing pressure gradually. That's why you can see bubbles in the oil on the dipstick.

The current oil pickup tube is attached with one bolt, even though there is another threaded hole for a second bolt. Aftermarket kits with a clamp type fitting that uses both bolts and will provide additional stability to the pickup tube connection point and O-ring vibration, which can flatten the O-ring over time. This is an optional mod, but while you've got the oil pan off (if you still do) you may want to consider it. Many retailers offer them, like Texas Speed and Summit Racing.

 

[j91z28d1]

The current oil pickup tube is attached with one bolt, even though there is another threaded hole for a second bolt. Aftermarket kits with a clamp type fitting that uses both bolts and will provide additional stability to the pickup tube connection point and O-ring vibration, which can flatten the O-ring over time. This is an optional mod, but while you've got the oil pan off (if you still do) you may want to consider it. Many retailers offer them, like Texas Speed and Summit Racing.

there was a interview with millings about ls oiling, and he said they feel there is a benefit to using both holes. they sell their own or any of the other ones arw fine.

cheap, and can't hurt anything.

 

[j91z28d1]

I did change the oil pressure sender first. No change in behavior. As I understand one of the failure modes with the o-ring is that if it loses seal, the oil pump pulls air with oil, which cavitates the oil, leading to losing pressure gradually. That's why you can see bubbles in the oil on the dipstick.

will be interesting to see your results.

 

[setha8]

Does anyone know the correct torque spec on the secondary oil pressure relief valve. I can't find it on Charm and I don't fully trust Google search results. I see some saying 22 ft lbs. I think that comes from the listing on michiganmotorsports.com.

Charm tends to have names for parts that don't always match the actual part description from GM, like the pickup tube is "oil pump screen", so maybe it's in there, I just can't find it.

 

[Fless]

Well, it would be helpful to know what exactly you're working on, so post the year make model and engine info. Consider adding it to your signature so it's always there.

Here's my best guess, but verify your vehicle. See Steps 14 & 15 in the link below:

63. Oil Pan Cleaning and Inspection — 2012 Chevrolet Suburban 2WD V8-5.3L Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2012 Chevrolet Suburban 2WD V8-5.3L.

charm.li