What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Wes
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Took the rear appliqué off in attempt to fix the backup camera. It works part time, and looks like Tron from the 80’s the other half.
As to why they don’t make those easier to remove is beyond me, because that removal is just stupid. The fact that you have to replace the entire appliqué instead of changing out the camera is ridiculous as well.
you can change just the camera, look closer. It all unbolts just have to have rear access
even the harness unscrews from the camera.
I have 2 of them around here somewhere that I pulled from the junkyard in case mine ever shitz the bed
 

LSCALADE

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You can tell how full the Oil cooler is? You’ll have to show me that one. Or did you mean catch can. I meant to say catch can the old one was just a canister with a dip stick. Could never tell how full it is because of the turbulence inside it. The new one has a clear tubing on the side and it's easy to see what's. in it and how full it is.

Which brand did you go with? I just ordered a set. Did you get both the Tee fittings and the couplers?
Rockauto has the doorman pieces for about 13-14$ each. I replaced them both and have to do just one of the ones that goes on the hose.

Do you have a link or p/n for this belt? Have you used them in the past? Do they make a/c belts? Its a green belt that I got off Rockauto, I believe it was HD something possibly AC Delco
Did you go with the 2015+ remote or the standard fobs? I have a set that I need to swap over to my ‘13, because it only came with one set. I can’t remember if my Autel will program them or not. Worst case the tech2 will do the trick. Amazon sells them in pairs the ones I got are the square remote fobs for the escalade because they have hatch and rear window pop button. 34$ for the pair.

How much was that AirRaid? I keep going back and forth about installing an aftermarket tube, or sticking with my homemade setup. (Stock air box & accordion tube, but large aluminum tubing to the throttle body, wrapped in heat_reflecting tape (Amazon special)). Amazon had a rapid fire sale and it was 159$ for the tube and KN filter dry type which was around 15$ so 175 for filter and tube, these things can always be resold for nearly what they go for new at least around here in Detroit since they almost never pop up for sale and if they do they are gone.
 

Charlie207

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Can you tell me what roof rack that is? I am interested in something like this for my escalade since the roof rack has been removed.
Yeah, it's the Yakima Control Towers and bases for an E39 BMW. The bolts happen to fit perfectly in the roof bosses of my Yukon.

Im working on a lazy concept to be able to use both Yukon bosses with the Yakima tower via an adapter plate. The single bolt anchoring the Control tower to the roof is fine for kayaks and skis and cargo boxes, but nothing like a RTT.
 

lowh07

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Texas Speed is having a nice sale today and tomorrow on cams and cam kits - 20% off. So I went ahead and ordered a dual spring kit with the Dumpster Fire cam (per their recommendation). Seems like it'll be pretty perfect. Looks like it's the cam developed for Ruby (Cleetus McFarland) and is a really nice boost cam for cathedral port heads.

I was going back and forth between 6.0 or 408 stroker, and 317 cathedral or 823 rectangle heads, and for my setup and goals, I think the 6.0 with 317s will be enough to make me very happy. Keep the wallet happy and the tahoe more reliable too. If I'm capping the rpm at 6000, I don't think the heads need to flow like crazy. I think it also would make a much bigger difference NA. I've also read that the 317s are more forgiving to tune, especially when it comes to pump gas and nitrous. And I'm not sure it would make as much sense to do a 408 with 317s. I think the 408 would mostly raise the torque, which I should have plenty of.

If I ever get bored with that, I think I could just swap the blower pulley and maybe port it. Already going to run a smaller pulley like a 2.75" maybe.

1767127641785.png
 

Joseph Garcia

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Well, I decided at the last minute to take my Yukon on my short vacation trip, which is about 165 miles each way from home. I previously planned on taking my Honda Fit, but I said to myself WTF, why am I spending all this damn money on this truck, if I can't even take it out on a 330 mile round trip drive!

So, this morning I load everything into the Yukon and I take my trip. I'm pulling into the hotel parking lot at 165 mile mark, and my power steering goes dead. Well, certainly better in the hotel parking lot than along the road, somewhere on the highway. I popped the hood, and there's no serpentine belt. It's laying shredded down on the bottom of the engine bay.

All of the connected pulleys are turning freely without the serpentine belt, so I don't think it shredded because of something failing on the pulleys or binding. I suppose that it could be a defect in the serpentine belt, but it was a Gates belt. It could also be a misalignment of one or more of the pulleys, which I will have totally checked out once I get back home.

Miraculously, I ordered the second serpentine belt when the supercharger was being installed, figuring that, if it failed (it's a thing with me and serpentine belts for some reason), I couldn't just pop into an auto parts shop and there'd be one hanging off the wall somewhere. So, I'm fortunate that I have that belt in the truck.

Of course, I was not carrying a tool kit with sockets and a breaker bar, but my son was already scheduled to come down and spend a few days with me here, so he's just going to load his tools into his truck and bring them on down.

I've already ordered another serpentine belt from a local Napa house, and they should receive it sometime by the end of tomorrow, and that will be my new spare.

So, it is not smiles for every mile. Lol
 
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Scrappycrow

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I've already ordered another serpentine belt from a local Napa house, and they should receive it sometime by the end of tomorrow, and that will be my new spare.
FWIW, I only use old belts for spares. Why? Have you ever gotten a new belt that's supposedly the same size as what you're replacing, only to discover it won't fit? I've had that happen a number of times. You know an old belt will fit, and if you're swapping belts out as part of regular maintenance (not because a belt failed), it's going to have enough life on it to work in an emergency. Additionally, if you're somewhere and give it to someone who needs it in a pinch, you're not out the expense of giving away a new belt.

Case in point, the alternator & water pump belt for BMW M30 engines (the "big six" used from the early '70s thru the early '90s). It's strangely common for that particular belt to be off in size, even for the same PN from the same supplier (NAPA, I'm looking at you). One time at a BMW gathering out of state, I lent my spare to a buddy who lives ~30 miles from me, and a couple of weeks later he said "Hey, I'm going to be in your area and will drop off this new belt I bought to replace your spare." Me: "Thanks, but I don't want the new belt, I want my old spare." Him: "Why would you want an old belt." I explained, and the next day he said "Well, I'll be damned -- the new belt doesn't fit! Now I get it. I'll have your old belt back to you next week."
 

Joseph Garcia

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There is some good news of my trip in progress so far. It was almost all highway driving for that 165 miles with some small hills and valleys, nothing extravagant. I kept the speed between 70 and 80, and I averaged 17.8 miles per gallon. That is about as good as the highway mileage that I got before I even started the supercharging and gearing project. Is it possible that my 4.10 gears contributed to this highway mileage number?

Not that I am concerned at all about my gas mileage, but I thought it was an interesting data point resulting from the completion of this overall project.
 

Sir_Hiro

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Well I couldnt stand the black moldings with the Tahoe Hybrid taillights..so I lowballed a chinese manufacture on ebay for a set of stock tahoes for 55 bucks with harness. I'll prob put the Hybrids up for sale.
 

tuckerrnr1

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FWIW, I only use old belts for spares. Why? Have you ever gotten a new belt that's supposedly the same size as what you're replacing, only to discover it won't fit? I've had that happen a number of times. You know an old belt will fit, and if you're swapping belts out as part of regular maintenance (not because a belt failed), it's going to have enough life on it to work in an emergency. Additionally, if you're somewhere and give it to someone who needs it in a pinch, you're not out the expense of giving away a new belt.

Case in point, the alternator & water pump belt for BMW M30 engines (the "big six" used from the early '70s thru the early '90s). It's strangely common for that particular belt to be off in size, even for the same PN from the same supplier (NAPA, I'm looking at you). One time at a BMW gathering out of state, I lent my spare to a buddy who lives ~30 miles from me, and a couple of weeks later he said "Hey, I'm going to be in your area and will drop off this new belt I bought to replace your spare." Me: "Thanks, but I don't want the new belt, I want my old spare." Him: "Why would you want an old belt." I explained, and the next day he said "Well, I'll be damned -- the new belt doesn't fit! Now I get it. I'll have your old belt back to you next week."
This takes me back. My 1968 Plymouth uses twin belts for the AC/crank/alternator, I used to get matched sets from NAPA. If I got rambunctious, over 5000 RPM it would like to throw the belts. It always seemed to chew one of the belts so I kept the good one each time as a spare to get home till I could get a new match set.
 

SpareParts

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There is some good news of my trip in progress so far. It was almost all highway driving for that 165 miles with some small hills and valleys, nothing extravagant. I kept the speed between 70 and 80, and I averaged 17.8 miles per gallon. That is about as good as the highway mileage that I got before I even started the supercharging and gearing project. Is it possible that my 4.10 gears contributed to this highway mileage number?

Not that I am concerned at all about my gas mileage, but I thought it was an interesting data point resulting from the completion of this overall project.
When im driving the same speed on the highway i average between 18 and 19 Totally stock with a 2" level.
 

mikeyss

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There is some good news of my trip in progress so far. It was almost all highway driving for that 165 miles with some small hills and valleys, nothing extravagant. I kept the speed between 70 and 80, and I averaged 17.8 miles per gallon. That is about as good as the highway mileage that I got before I even started the supercharging and gearing project. Is it possible that my 4.10 gears contributed to this highway mileage number?

Not that I am concerned at all about my gas mileage, but I thought it was an interesting data point resulting from the completion of this overall project.
I've been on the fence with deciding if I want to change gears... What RPM's are you turning at 80MPH? I've always been afraid that 4.10's would be overkill with our 6L80's. How does 1st gear work - like does it even use it since you've swapped gears, lol?
 

LSCALADE

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Finally finished the second version of the headlights for my new escalade. Used a hyperboloid projecotor with 3 high beam LEDs. https://ebay.us/m/EWT2qm

Turned out quite a lot better than I had expected, minus opening these permaseal units. If you were to attempt such a retrofit, definitely stay away from the perma seal units and you can identify those by the rectangle opening for the low beam. The ones with round openings seem to be all sealed with Butyl which melts in the oven at 250F for 10min, the lens peels back, no damage to any components. ( baked mine to 275F for up to 10min and that is borderline )

Here are a few pictures of the end results.

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Before
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This is the old OEM housings with PNP LED Bulbs.
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The housings before installation. Ceramic coated.
1767299261869.png

1767299278080.png
 

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Sir_Hiro

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Finally finished the second version of the headlights for my new escalade. Used a hyperboloid projecotor with 3 high beam LEDs. https://ebay.us/m/EWT2qm

Turned out quite a lot better than I had expected, minus opening these permaseal units. If you were to attempt such a retrofit, definitely stay away from the perma seal units and you can identify those by the rectangle opening for the low beam. The ones with round openings seem to be all sealed with Butyl which melts in the oven at 250F for 10min, the lens peels back, no damage to any components. ( baked mine to 275F for up to 10min and that is borderline )

Here are a few pictures of the end results.

View attachment 475260


View attachment 475262

View attachment 475263

View attachment 475264
Before
View attachment 475266


This is the old OEM housings with PNP LED Bulbs.
View attachment 475265


The housings before installation. Ceramic coated.
View attachment 475267
View attachment 475268

I think Eskys look the best retrofited outta all the bodys. Thats an interesting projector I like it. What shroud did you use?
 

LSCALADE

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I think Eskys look the best retrofited outta all the bodys. Thats an interesting projector I like it. What shroud did you use?
That's the shroud that came with the DEPO housings which is a copy of the OEM unit. Without it there is a gap about 1/4" which is not important but it finishes the look of it.

These are stupid simple to retrofit but bracket thinning is required to bring the projector to proper placement to the opening. I have done 3 sets of these by now and I am probably going to do one more where I may do something with the middle reflector which is DRL only but I may convert it to High beam and DRL function.
 

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