Replacing 4 year old Genuine GM Waterpump w/41K miles

[KC 2013 Tahoe]

So my bride came home last night and as is usual in the summer months here in AZ, she popped the hood and turned on the fan in the garage to vent out the heat.
She noticed a strong antifreeze odor and gave me a shout. Sure enough, the water pump is leaking via the weep hole.

Sadly, the water pump is just 4 years old (replaced it proactively) at 100K miles, along with new stretch belt, serpentine belt, belt tensioner, thermostat, coolant tees, all hoses, new radiator, complete flush of the cooling system and refill with fresh Dexcool. Now at 141K the pump has already failed. As the original pump lasted 100K, thought a new GM pump would last at least that long. (2013 Tahoe, 4WD with the Flex Fuel 5.3L). Guessing I happened to get the 1 in 100 bad pumps they made.

Going to try a non-GM water pump this time. Ordered a fresh Murray pump last night. It includes a new 187° thermostat & housing and has a L/T warranty.
Changing it out isn't all that bad so at least if this one fails, I'll get a free replacement, unlike the GM pump with its 1-year warranty.
Plan to install it Saturday morning and go ahead and flush the cooling system again and install new Dexcool.
Will change out the belts, hoses and tees this fall when it cools down. Our daytime highs are still in the low 100's (Chandler-AZ) and I can take my time to get everything ordered ahead of time.

All that said, anyone have any feedback regarding Murray water pumps? I had used them with great results on Chevy 350's (Gen-2 Camaro's), so figure I'll give them a try on my bride's 5.3 LS.

Kevin

 

[Doubeleive]

So my bride came home last night and as is usual in the summer months here in AZ, she popped the hood and turned on the fan in the garage to vent out the heat.
She noticed a strong antifreeze odor and gave me a shout. Sure enough, the water pump is leaking via the weep hole.

Sadly, the water pump is just 4 years old (replaced it proactively) at 100K miles, along with new stretch belt, serpentine belt, belt tensioner, thermostat, coolant tees, all hoses, new radiator, complete flush of the cooling system and refill with fresh Dexcool. Now at 141K the pump has already failed. As the original pump lasted 100K, thought a new GM pump would last at least that long. (2013 Tahoe, 4WD with the Flex Fuel 5.3L). Guessing I happened to get the 1 in 100 bad pumps they made.

Going to try a non-GM water pump this time. Ordered a fresh Murray pump last night. It includes a new 187° thermostat & housing and has a L/T warranty.
Changing it out isn't all that bad so at least if this one fails, I'll get a free replacement, unlike the GM pump with its 1-year warranty.
Plan to install it Saturday morning and go ahead and flush the cooling system again and install new Dexcool.
Will change out the belts, hoses and tees this fall when it cools down. Our daytime highs are still in the low 100's (Chandler-AZ) and I can take my time to get everything ordered ahead of time.

All that said, anyone have any feedback regarding Murray water pumps? I had used them with great results on Chevy 350's (Gen-2 Camaro's), so figure I'll give them a try on my bride's 5.3 LS.

Kevin

2yr warranty, versus they used to offer a lifetime warranty
but regardless I would still go oem

More Information for GM GENUINE 251713

 

[KC 2013 Tahoe]

Thanks Wes - The failed pump actually came as a package deal that I ordered from RockAuto.
The GM pump/T-stat combo, GM belt tensioner and new serpentine belt all came together as a package.
Checked RockAuto last night and they don't appear to offer that combo anymore, but did see the GM pumps.
Going to see how others weigh in today before proceeding, as I can also get the GM pump (sans T-Stat) at O'Reilly too, but it only has a 1-year warranty.
Appreciate your feedback,
Kevin

 

[swathdiver]

Put the original one back on! Still running my original water pump at 217K miles.

 

[KC 2013 Tahoe]

I had actually considered that... still do have the original which I saved since it was still doing fine at 100K miles.
We usually drive across the desert several times for long weekends in mid summer (Phoenix to Carlsbad) didn't want to take a chance on a failed cooling system out in the middle of I-8 in 117° heat.

Definitely gives me another data point to consider if the originals do indeed last that long... Thanks!

 

[mikez71]

pretty sure mine was original...
replaced proactively at 210k miles.

Replaced with Melling which doesn't 'look' as nice as OEM..

 

[KC 2013 Tahoe]

Thanks Mike!
I did see the Melling offering too on the RockAuto page.
If they're half as good as their oil pumps, should be very good performers but they too only offer a 1-year warranty.
Kevin

 

[PPV_2018]

My OEM water pump failed at 130K and took the entire manifold out with it. It’s a crapshoot.

Replaced with a Gates.

 

[KC 2013 Tahoe]

PPV:

Thanks for the additional data point!
Much appreciated,
Kevin

 

[j91z28d1]

I hate to hear is. I'm usually a don't mess with it till it fails guy, especially oem parts. nothing annoys me more than "fixing" things with junk parts. but I changed mine too since I had the system open to do the fire wall t's. went with a millings, but oem was fine and it's on the shelf.

no good data point for you other than the miliings has about 30k in it and is OK so far.

 

[B-train]

Put the original one back on! Still running my original water pump at 217K miles.

LOL! I SECOND THAT IDEA! Still running the original on both rigs (205k and 178k).

I really like @KC 2013 Tahoe maintenance schedule. It's a bummer the OEM one let him down......it's usually not the case. I'd say try it again with a new OEM one. I've also had decent luck with Napa and Carquest premium line products that are NEW, not reman, and they usually come with a lifetime warranty as well.

 

[j91z28d1]

there is like 3 level of acdelco parts these days. 2 lower level rebadged no name stuff and OE.

just incase

 

[KC 2013 Tahoe]

So I checked and there are 3 Murray pumps offered:

#US6009T: New, no listed specs, comes with T-Stat and T-Stat housing: $166
#CP6009: New, no T-Stat or housing, listed for HD & fan clutch applications & lists all specs: $183
#CP6009RF: New, no T-Stat or housing, includes mounting bolts and polished housing & lists all specs: $226

Very similar to the different ACDELCO pumps/price points
Leaning towards trying the Murray CP6009 as it's listed for HD applications and offers full specs but going to ruminate over all the feedback before choosing.

Will let you know what I end up choosing and perhaps cover the install too.

Kevin

 

[alvocado]

I hit 220k with my factory pump and changed it preventatively before taking some long distance trips. If I didn't do long mileage trips, I would have left it. A GM replacement went back in with new housing and tstat.

 

[rdezs]

I replace the 2014 Escalade water pump at 100,000 as preventive maintenance, with an AC Delco professional. Almost 80,000 miles later, doing fine. On the 2003 Hummer H2 with the 6.0, it has a Gates water pump. No issues with that one either.

 

[donjetman]

Replaced mine proactively 5.5 yrs and 50k miles ago with an $85 amazon special. No issue.

 

[rdezs]

Some food for thought. While I always insist on genuine GM or ACDelco for electronic sensors, when it comes to mechanical parts there's often a couple optional choices. (Timken bearings for example, u joints, serpentine belts, timing chains.... We do have some really good aftermarket options available)

So on the water pump if I don't use genuine GM or AC Delco, I will use one of the major brands like Gates.

I'm not so worried about the water pump itself, but rather than number one thing that kills water pumps.... And that would be too much tension on the belt. For that reason, I only use genuine GM ACDelco for the tensioner.
If you used the whole kit from RockAuto that came with tensioners and idler, and the water pump failed... I would make sure and replace the tensioner again in case that was the defective part that caused the issue.

On the flip side, I think over the past 45 years I've had a water pump start dripping out the weep hole twice..... And both quit within two or three hundred miles. Everybody I talk to at the time chalked it up to a piece of debris or rust flake from the block that got caught in the seal temporarily. But even if that happens you should probably replace the water pump, does that means coolant got into where the bearings are. Obviously in such a case it's not a defective water pump, just an engine that needs a through coolant system flush. So before pulling the pump, you may want to consider doing that...

 

[rdezs]

..... If I may ramble on over my coffee this morning.... The first one was my 1977 Pontiac trans Am with the 400 ci, four speed manual. T-tops, screaming Chicken on the hood, typical Smokey and the bandit car. Headed to Texas from Oregon, had to get back to base following two weeks of leave. It started dripping in winnemucca Nevada at 2:00 a.m. . Cracked open the radiator cap so the cooling system would not build pressure. Stocked up on several gallons of water. Stopped every hour to top off the coolant. Running 80 to 100 mph through the desert at night. 8 hours later at a stop to top off the coolant, it was bone dry and tightened the cap. Never leaked again for the five more years I owned it.

 

[KC 2013 Tahoe]

So I went to O'Reilly after work yesterday to checkout the CP6009 Murray HD pump. Label on the box says its made in Mexico, so at least it's not made in China. Problem lately, is that China has been buying-up factories in MX and is taking them over, so any benefit of being made in MX is lost. Sadly, there's no way to tell, unless you know what specific factory they're built at. What a $hit show!

I try very hard to not use China made components in any of my vehicles. I know how poor their Quality is, and how substandard materials are substututed, even when good materials are called-out by the manufacturer... it's simply endemic to their culture to try and weed out cost/maximize profit anywhere possible. Quality is not a concern. Exactly why I'll never fly on a COMAC aircraft and smile when I read about their new Aircraft carrier, made with stolen US technolgy. Can only imagine what corners were cut in its thousands of subsystems and mechanical parts... OK, getting off the soapbox!

The GM Pump that failed was made in China as was indicated on its box.

Leaning towards the Murray pump, but still thinking about the 100K mile, OEM pump still resting under the garage workbench.
We'll see,

Kevin

PS: FWIW- that belt tensioner I installed with the then new pump was also ACDELCO, so pretty sure that's not the issue. I had also flushed the engine block, F&R heater cores and radiator while the pump was pulled off, so I'd be really surprised if there were any solids left in the system to damage the pump shaft seal.

 

[KC 2013 Tahoe]

And for an entirely different option I hadn't considered:
For $289 + shipping Flying Dutchman can rebuild these pumps.

Home

Quality, warranted, rebuilt water pumps for over 20 years. 3 year unlimited mileage warranty! We rebuild and remanufacture water pumps for most import and domestic automobiles, including antiques and classic cars.

www.water-pump-rebuilders.com

To quote Wade, "this style pump is essentially a throw away design and the gigantic rear freeze plug style cover is a joke. It uses a cheap, stamped steel impeller and the front pulley oftentimes must be drilled off the shaft as it typically can't be pulled without damage"

They use USA-made bearings and seals in their rebuilds. I had them rebuild my Pontiac 400 water pump with excellent results several years ago. They also properly clearance the impeller on the shaft so it has maximum pumping efficiency.

Thinking about sending the expired GM pump to them for this service and keep it in reserve for whenever the replacement I install tomorrow fails. Makes using the 100K mile OEM stocker that I saved a much more viable option as I'll have a much better one with USA seals, shaft and bearings in reserve to replace it.