2001 GMC Yukon XL (Aka Beast)

[makintoshnex]

Depends on the gearbox, don't it?
If it's a 4L60E, Dexron6 is excellent.
The Dexron previous to D6 is good enough, but change it much sooner than Dexron6.

(Even better than Dexron6 would be Dexron 6 by LubeGard, OR the 8L90E ATF, but likely not worth the extra expense to you.)

How can I check what what gear box I have?

 

[Marky Dissod]

How can I check what what gear box I have?

Based on your signature, a 4L80E / 4L85E, since I doubt you've any of the 4L60 variants.
In your glovebox, examine your SPID sticker for one of the following 3-character codes:

MT1 = 4L80E
MN8 = 4L85E (Heavy Duty, think 6.6L DuraMax)

Still recommend Dexron6 / Dexron 6 by LubeGard / whatever ATF works for 8L90 if you've money to burn.

 

[Bigburb3500]

Based on your signature, a 4L80E / 4L85E, since I doubt you've any of the 4L60 variants.
In your glovebox, examine your SPID sticker for one of the following 3-character codes:

MT1 = 4L80E
MN8 = 4L85E (Heavy Duty, think 6.6L DuraMax)

Still recommend Dexron6 / Dexron 6 by LubeGard / whatever ATF works for 8L90 if you've money to burn.

GMT800 2500 is the 4L80.

Check online for low cost options, I just did a trans-oil replacement for my truck and got it online from Tractor Supply. They were running a sale, $15/gal for DexVI

 

[makintoshnex]

Based on your signature, a 4L80E / 4L85E, since I doubt you've any of the 4L60 variants.
In your glovebox, examine your SPID sticker for one of the following 3-character codes:

MT1 = 4L80E
MN8 = 4L85E (Heavy Duty, think 6.6L DuraMax)

Still recommend Dexron6 / Dexron 6 by LubeGard / whatever ATF works for 8L90 if you've money to burn.

I got this . 2 canisters think should be enough

 

[makintoshnex]

This is my purchase list + I got ABs wheel sensors.
Hope it will go good. But guys in repair shop we're not happy to see my GMC in there, this morning at 8 am. Hope they will be able to install all that by Tuesday.

 

[makintoshnex]

Alright some good news, some bad news none of the above parts were installed. There was no sense in that. Liquids were charged in power steering, brake, gearbox and engine, blinker fluid was added. Front and back rotors needs to be replaced. Front bearing in a hub needs to be replaced. No brake pressure in the rear left wheel. ABS module with a unit were replaced. Brake booster is leaking. Power steering pump, as well as return **** and rail are leaking. Rear axle seal is leaking. Oil is coming out of the shaft gearbox lines are leaking. Need front shocks. Need front pinions.

P.s. my only concern are brakes and hubs. But I think without another 1 k in truck it will not make it. I checked the most expensive mavotech are $144.79 ea. I worry about that no brake pressure in rear wheel. And also someone did a horrible job with brake line replacement. They just throw them wherever. Somewhere they are rubbing against frame, somewhere against body. I did some digging on rockauto, $490 without delivery fee. That's for items that must be bone. I'm not taking into consideration elimination of that oil leak from rear axle and making that rear wheel to brake. I think it's another $500 in labor. + May require some parts.

Tell me guys what you think

 

[Tonyrodz]

Alright some good news, some bad news none of the above parts were installed. There was no sense in that. Liquids were charged in power steering, brake, gearbox and engine, blinker fluid was added. Front and back rotors needs to be replaced. Front bearing in a hub needs to be replaced. No brake pressure in the rear left wheel. ABS module with a unit were replaced. Brake booster is leaking. Power steering pump, as well as return **** and rail are leaking. Rear axle seal is leaking. Oil is coming out of the shaft gearbox lines are leaking. Need front shocks. Need front pinions.

P.s. my only concern are brakes and hubs. But I think without another 1 k in truck it will not make it. I checked the most expensive mavotech are $144.79 ea. I worry about that no brake pressure in rear wheel. And also someone did a horrible job with brake line replacement. They just throw them wherever. Somewhere they are rubbing against frame, somewhere against body. I did some digging on rockauto, $490 without delivery fee. That's for items that must be bone. I'm not taking into consideration elimination of that oil leak from rear axle and making that rear wheel to brake. I think it's another $500 in labor. + May require some parts.

Tell me guys what you think

Blinker fluid??

 

[makintoshnex]

My old abs . I think it's beyond repair.

 

[makintoshnex]

Blinker fluid??

That was a joke.

 

[Marky Dissod]

Blinker fluid?

You're supposed to check and/or replace blinker fluid every April 1st.

 

[makintoshnex]

Currently I'm on the cross roads. So far I think can do the following : forget about fixing leaks (just keep on adding fruids) , do front hubs, front rotors with brakes, do rear rotors and brakes. If possible fix that one wheel that has no brake line pressure. Shop said that I bought crappy abs unit. Well I bought it from junkyard, so it might be crappy.



Or sell the truck. Go to PA and get something with less miles and less rust. ( By something I mean something with V8 or v6. It needs just to accommodate my crew and tools, so basically my range is pretty big. We have 2004 Duramax in shop that does towing. So I don't have to tow. More over I have diesel Sprinter.



I really don't want to part ways with 8.1 XL. It's a great truck, I really love it. Highly doubt that any 5.3 or 6.0 will give such a feel of a power ( not talking about v6) but it is what it is.



I'd love to hear your thoughts on that.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Currently I'm on the cross roads. So far I think can do the following : forget about fixing leaks (just keep on adding fruids) , do front hubs, front rotors with brakes, do rear rotors and brakes. If possible fix that one wheel that has no brake line pressure. Shop said that I bought crappy abs unit. Well I bought it from junkyard, so it might be crappy.



Or sell the truck. Go to PA and get something with less miles and less rust. ( By something I mean something with V8 or v6. It needs just to accommodate my crew and tools, so basically my range is pretty big. We have 2004 Duramax in shop that does towing. So I don't have to tow. More over I have diesel Sprinter.



I really don't want to part ways with 8.1 XL. It's a great truck, I really love it. Highly doubt that any 5.3 or 6.0 will give such a feel of a power ( not talking about v6) but it is what it is.



I'd love to hear your thoughts on that.

Depending on the year I doubt you'll find anything with less rust from Pa. They use lots of salt on the roads in the winter.
I say keep plugging away on the Yukon, just fix one thing at a time to make it more manageable--with the most important job 1st. I guarantee you'll regret getting rid of it. I think you should keep it. At least there's nothing mechanically wrong with the motor or trans.

 

[makintoshnex]

Depending on the year I doubt you'll find anything with less rust from Pa. They use lots of salt on the roads in the winter.
I say keep plugging away on the Yukon, just fix one thing at a time to make it more manageable--with the most important job 1st. I guarantee you'll regret getting rid of it. I think you should keep it. At least there's nothing mechanically wrong with the motor or trans.

Agree. My biggest concern is that one wheel that has no brake boost. As far as I figured. Abs module works just fine, the only bad thing is that under driver seat pump. So I should keep on looking. Meanwhile, I will return all the parts I bought, because anyway nobody is taking that job. 2 shops said it's a hell of a job and needs taking apart whole front.

I found few sequoias and Obyssey. They look clean to me. But I need time to take look at them.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Agree. My biggest concern is that one wheel that has no brake boost. As far as I figured. Abs module works just fine, the only bad thing is that under driver seat pump. So I should keep on looking. Meanwhile, I will return all the parts I bought, because anyway nobody is taking that job. 2 shops said it's a hell of a job and needs taking apart whole front.

I found few sequoias and Obyssey. They look clean to me. But I need time to take look at them.

The rear line with no pressure might be a rubber brake line swollen closed. That can happen sometimes. They can look fine on the outside but can be totally swollen shut internally. I don't think an Odyssey mini van makes a good work vehicle. Just my opinion.

 

[makintoshnex]

Just happened now. Lost power. Engine died. Puddle of gas under. When ignition is on it leaks gas on a road under driver seat.

 

[makintoshnex]

Will arrange tow to a repair shop. Hope it's just a broken fuel line and nothing serious. Pums is working so it's pumping gas.

 

[makintoshnex]

Truck towed and fuel line repaired. $150 tow $560 part an labor. Fuel pump appears to be replaced already. Found a piece of metal rod sticking out, probably that what caused the problem. I think to sell GMC and get never with less miles. Suburban 2500 2007-2014 has no AFM (DOD) just need to get a decent one.

 

[makintoshnex]

Can someone explain difference between these two?

 

[Tonyrodz]

Can someone explain difference between these two?

Top shock has a longer body then the lower shock. Maybe for the Z71 option.

 

[makintoshnex]

Top shock has a longer body then the lower shock. Maybe for the Z71 option.

Maybe. I thought 4 inch is for leveling kit, and it requires additional raise from front in order to install it.