2001 GMC Yukon XL (Aka Beast)

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makintoshnex

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Here is my "Beast " it's not the best, but it is what it is. 2001 GMC Yukon XL 2500 all original for now. Seats and frame in great condition. Body has some damage from rust, but previous owner did lots of job to a body And truck itself. I purchased it 2/1/25 for $2800. I think it worth the money. Beast has 244345 on odometer, the only code is for abs, because of speed sensor. Engine eats some oil from time to time. But nothing serious.
 

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makintoshnex

makintoshnex

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So far I'm looking for 8x165.1 wheels but nothing comes under 1 k. So I will wait. Also park brake light kicked in. It glows steadily not flashing. Maybe bad ground? What you guys think. Also question. This truck is higher then regular Yukon from factory, looks like it is 2 inches lifted. Can I fit 33 wheels without lifting it more?
 
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makintoshnex

makintoshnex

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Still can't get rid of those lights. ABS is because of speed sensor on wheels , but park didn't go away even after I did grounds unde driver side. I'm quite scared to take it to highway in this condition. Brakes seems to working. But I'm a little bit you know
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Rocket Man

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Still can't get rid of those lights. ABS is because of speed sensor on wheels , but park didn't go away even after I did grounds unde driver side. I'm quite scared to take it to highway in this condition. Brakes seems to working. But I'm a little bit you know
View attachment 449894
Could be as simple as the brake light switch. How is the fluid level? Keep an eye on it in case it’s rusted and leaking lines.BTW nice name; check out my build thread, link in m signature at the bottom of my post. ( The Beast one)
 
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makintoshnex

makintoshnex

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Could be as simple as the brake light switch. How is the fluid level? Keep an eye on it in case it’s rusted and leaking lines.BTW nice name; check out my build thread, link in m signature at the bottom of my post. ( The Beast one)
Brake Fluid level seems to be ok. Brake lines were replaced by previous owner for stainless steel and fuel lines are nylon.
 

Bigburb3500

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Brake Fluid level seems to be ok. Brake lines were replaced by previous owner for stainless steel and fuel lines are nylon.
This looks exactly my 01 except I had barn doors. Great truck!

I had the same lights/issues except mine was not due to speed sensor. There is an ABS module on the driver frame rail (I think it’s driver, if not it will be on passenger side lol) and these modules are known to go bad. They are a bit tricky to get out if never replaced but are not hard. Find a good used one, usually about $50-70 if I remember correctly. When the module goes bad both these lights will come on.
 

strutaeng

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Scan the truck for codes, but the brake/abs light are likely the EBCM.

I replaced the EBCM on my 99 Silverado last year, after it went out and I had been driving it like that for like 2 years, but only got driven occasionally.

Congratulations on the purchase!
 
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makintoshnex

makintoshnex

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I decided to swap factory door courtesy light. Into eBay A.K.a AliExpress ones. I don't know who designed those ports, but he definitely doesn't know how it should look like. So I came out with solution. I had expired LED. So I decided to use their board as a terminal base. Here how it came out. Unfortunately I am missing 2 LED, because I managed to damage them beyond repair. Results are great.
 

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makintoshnex

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Just found these male t10 connectors on Amazon. Hope they will work better than my makeshift
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Rocket Man

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I decided to swap factory door courtesy light. Into eBay A.K.a AliExpress ones. I don't know who designed those ports, but he definitely doesn't know how it should look like. So I came out with solution. I had expired LED. So I decided to use their board as a terminal base. Here how it came out. Unfortunately I am missing 2 LED, because I managed to damage them beyond repair. Results are great.
For interior courtesy lights , I found these on Amazon. They’re super bright white LED. They have other variations too. The difference from factory style housings with LED bulbs instead of the stock bulbs like I had originally upgraded to was amazing. These things put out a huge amount of light.,

D-Lumina LED Interior Door Light... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09G2BQNVH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
 
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makintoshnex

makintoshnex

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For interior courtesy lights , I found these on Amazon. They’re super bright white LED. They have other variations too. The difference from factory style housings with LED bulbs instead of the stock bulbs like I had originally upgraded to was amazing. These things put out a huge amount of light.,

D-Lumina LED Interior Door Light... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09G2BQNVH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Yes, it has same connection as mine. And I assume I would have to do same with yours. I finished mine and they came out pretty good, almost factory style. I think I left too long wires, but who will see it inside of door.
 

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Rocket Man

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Yes, it has same connection as mine. And I assume I would have to do same with yours. I finished mine and they came out pretty good, almost factory style. I think I left too long wires, but who will see it inside of door.
No, there is no messing around with the ones I bought. Plug them into the factory wiring, pop em in the door. 3-4x the amount of light as factory style with LED bulbs swapped in.
 
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makintoshnex

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I filled my gas tank till full, but pistol didn't kick by itself. Just was watching the gauge. Now I smell gas. Can't define the leak. No smell under the hood, looks like it's coming from under the body. Charcoal canister?
 

Marky Dissod

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I filled my gas tank till full, but pistol didn't kick by itself. Just was watching the gauge.
Now I smell gas. Can't define the leak. No smell under the hood, looks like it's coming from under the body.
Charcoal canister?
Depends on where the charcoal canister is actually located under the body.
 

adventurenali92

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For interior courtesy lights , I found these on Amazon. They’re super bright white LED. They have other variations too. The difference from factory style housings with LED bulbs instead of the stock bulbs like I had originally upgraded to was amazing. These things put out a huge amount of light.,

D-Lumina LED Interior Door Light... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09G2BQNVH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I followed your lead and went with these for my front doors as well. I love em! One fell apart but grabbed a new set and haven’t had any issues with the second set! The white light is awesome from these.
 

SilverSport

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are you topping off your tank???topping off your tank can over flow into that charcoal canister giving you that gasoline smell...(if the nozzle didn't click off gasoline could have over flowed into that canister but I see now you know this)

Good luck with your Denali

Bill
 
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makintoshnex

makintoshnex

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Hi. Who knows how to fix my fuel tank? When gas is stopped till full or truck is on a steep angle, gas goes to charcoal canister. It stinks pretty bad, I can't roll down windows or open sunroof. Also my truck had tint on windshield, it was installed by previous owner. I got pulled over because of that. Cop gave a courtesy warning, and forced to remove it. I was left with glue on a glass. How can I remove that glue?
 

Rocket Man

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Hi. Who knows how to fix my fuel tank? When gas is stopped till full or truck is on a steep angle, gas goes to charcoal canister. It stinks pretty bad, I can't roll down windows or open sunroof. Also my truck had tint on windshield, it was installed by previous owner. I got pulled over because of that. Cop gave a courtesy warning, and forced to remove it. I was left with glue on a glass. How can I remove that glue?
Are you sure gas is going into the canister? You might have rusted fuel lines at the top of the tank at the fuel pump and gas can leak when the pump runs or fuel sloshes around in the tank onto the recessed area on the top of the tank where it sits until it spills or evaporates. It’s happens in the rust belt states. The only way to diagnose your fuel problem is by tearing it apart back there and the only way I know to do it right is start disassembling the evap system and/or dropping the tank which makes it easier. You’ll need to siphon the fuel out of the tank if it’s full by removing the filler tube and sticking a hose in there before lowering it or it’s real heavy. Empty it only weighs 15 lbs. The hoses for the evap system have different types of clips on every one and they’re a PIA especially if the tank isn’t lowered some. I’ve done it and it’s not fun. As for the glue, ask any window tint shop what they use, give them a call. If the canister is full of gas, you probably have charcoal all the way up to the front of the truck in the evap lines which will have to be blown out with compressed air and then replace all the components- canister and the vent valve and purge valve. Look at a parts list somewhere like Rock Auto under the evap parts for your truck. Here’s the page. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/gmc,2001,yukon,6.0l+v8,1420524,exhaust+&+emission
This isn’t an easy repair. It was a challenge for me and I’m a pretty decent mechanic. The clips are real hard to reach and see, and each has its own design. It’s weird. YouTube will be your friend.
 
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