What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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RooTBeeRthe1st

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PS cooler, pressure hose, return hose, both seals. The crimp fitting on the pressure hose was looking pretty nasty, not going to chance anything before the summer road trips. All OE, and will likely replace the pump in the near future as well.

View attachment 456851
I just bought new oil cooler lines as well. Still need to put them on though. Mine have been sweating for quite a while
 
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Grady_Wilson

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Replaced both front sway bar end links.
Old ones were original and were very tired.
Didn't get the chance to do sway bar bushings because my cousin called and said they have an unexpected hay delivery coming so I'm going to help unload.
Normally, we go to the hay farm, load then unload into his barn but the hay farmer wants to get the last of this hay gone so he can start another crop of hay because it's supposed to rain the rest of the week starting tomorrow.
Oh well, I'll get the bushings done whenever.

1747073951354.jpeg
 

Scrappycrow

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It was quite a challenge to find and source high temp vinyl “wilwood” “4 PISTON” and “6 PISTON” decals. Had to be high-temp vinyl cause the color was powder coated on, then high-temp vinyl decals applied, and a coat of clear powder coat over the decals. They turned out great.
Where'd you find the decals? I've got some older anodized Wilwoods on my '79 AMC Spirit that was one of my Dad's track cars, and one red caliper is now soft pink! It'd be nice to redo them with fresh graphics.
 

Geotrash

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Replaced both front sway bar end links.
Old ones were original and were very tired.
Didn't get the chance to do sway bar bushings because my cousin called and said they have an unexpected hay delivery coming so I'm going to help unload.
Normally, we go to the hay farm, load then unload into his barn but the hay farmer wants to get the last of this hay gone so he can start another crop of hay because it's supposed to rain the rest of the week starting tomorrow.
Oh well, I'll get the bushings done whenever.

View attachment 456965
That's how mine looked on my '07 when I replaced them back in 2019.
 

Rocket Man

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Installed a battery tender today on the 2500; as many know I bought an XT5 a few months ago and have been putting miles on it instead of the beast.

Went with a Deltran Battery Tender Junior which allows me to wire it directly onto the battery, and can unplug just like the block heater. Based on everything I've read it's probably not a great idea to remote start while it's attached so I have the hood propped open to keep me from making that mistake.

The 2500 gets out 1 or 2 times a month unless we are on a road trip and it's just not enough to keep the battery charged anymore.
I put a NOCO Genius onboard charger on my Silverado which has an AGM battery on it. I don’t drive it in the winter so I needed a way to keep the battery charged. I don’t tow with it because it’s basically a show truck that I use for my grocery getter so the trailer light connector was unused. I ran a wire along the frame back there and mounted a 120v male plug inside the trailer light connector so I can lift the flap on the trailer light connector and plug the charger in. I almost always remember to unplug it before starting but I’ve started it with the charger on with no issues.
 

CMoore711

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Where'd you find the decals? I've got some older anodized Wilwoods on my '79 AMC Spirit that was one of my Dad's track cars, and one red caliper is now soft pink! It'd be nice to redo them with fresh graphics.

I found the vendor on eBay; sold by username/seller cardecals64. He's located in Isreal and that's where the decals would ship from. I was able to send him some pics of my stock will woods with a ruler showing the length and height of the original caliper logos and he pretty much took it from there. In my ebay purchase history he comes up as a member, but not current listings for sale...

I thought he might have been on etsy as well, but not positive.

It's tough to find the exact ones; There's a lot of options on eBay and etsy, some with variable amount of curve in the logo, a lot that don't include the "4-PISTON" or "6-PISTON" part of the logo.
 

alpha_omega

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I've broken the tab off... so annoying. At that point it's farked, but if you are replacing it anyways, you can't make it worse.

Literally no amount of lube helped get it out... it's a bare aluminum bore. And the ever-so-slightly expanded hard plastic is going to fight. Just keep twisting and it'll come out. I even did one on an engine that was already out of the car, and it was still annoying.
Good to know. Thanks.

At least now I don’t feel like I was doing something wrong.
 

CMoore711

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Man, those old front swaybar bushings were toast after a year.

View attachment 457040

I need to do this…. But my front swaybar mount hardware is seized up pretty good. I’m so nervous I’m going to break the bolt head right off.

I was able to swap the rear swaybar bushing mounts just fine.

If a front bolt head strips off and turns into a much more involved maintenance I’d feel better about it if I was upgrading to some Hellwigs.

Any recommendations on techniques to get seized front swaybar mount hardware loosened up?
 

Charlie207

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I need to do this…. But my front swaybar mount hardware is seized up pretty good. I’m so nervous I’m going to break the bolt head right off.

I was able to swap the rear swaybar bushing mounts just fine.

If a front bolt head strips off and turns into a much more involved maintenance I’d feel better about it if I was upgrading to some Hellwigs.

Any recommendations on techniques to get seized front swaybar mount hardware loosened up?

Heat, heat, and heat. That area is a rust-trap for the bolt threads that point up. I soaked them in so much PB Blaster, and one of them still broke. It had probably been fused for years.

At least you'll have good practice drilling....

Actually, stock up on quality left-hand drill bits now.
 

89Suburban

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I need to do this…. But my front swaybar mount hardware is seized up pretty good. I’m so nervous I’m going to break the bolt head right off.

I was able to swap the rear swaybar bushing mounts just fine.

If a front bolt head strips off and turns into a much more involved maintenance I’d feel better about it if I was upgrading to some Hellwigs.

Any recommendations on techniques to get seized front swaybar mount hardware loosened up?

Heat, heat, and heat. That area is a rust-trap for the bolt threads that point up. I soaked them in so much PB Blaster, and one of them still broke. It had probably been fused for years.

At least you'll have good practice drilling....

Actually, stock up on quality left-hand drill bits now.

Presoak them up real good for a while, heat cycle them, sometimes trying to tighten them a crack before loosening helps. Use an adjustable torque impact gun to hammer away at them some in both directions.

I highly recommend one of these sockets to at least keep the head from rounding off. Even still I had 1 of the 4 snap off and had to drill it out half arsed. Put a nut an washer on the top side.


 

Charlie207

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At the shop for a courtesy 90-day alignment check. They needed to straighten the steering wheel, but it was perfect timing after replacing the strut mounts, and all that jazz. I serious doubt tearing the fronthend apart affected anything, free is free.

Here's the after-action report. Seems like a lot changed from just a couple months.

O9Q7IzG.jpg
 
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Charlie207

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Man, those old front swaybar bushings were toast after a year.

View attachment 457040

On reflection, does anyone know the torque spec. for the inboard swaybar clamps off the top of their head. It looks like I had them too tight.

EDIT: Oh yeah... Should be 37 ft-lb on the shells, and 17 ft-lb on the end links. I bet I had 59 ugga-duggas on those.
 

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