Transmission Out, What Maintenance While I’m in There

[CTX-SLPR]

Howdy,

Having to replace my transmission as I have lost confidence in the unit enough to not just replace pieces. With the transmission out, is there maintenance I should have done while the back of the engine is exposed? Heard about upgrading the “barbell” diverter which would require pulling the rear cover which means the rear main is also a possibility. Anything else I’m not thinking of?

Thanks

 

[Ibustbravo]

It's going to need a set of trick flow heads, a turbo, stall converter, 4:56 gears and a wide set of rear rims..

Just planting the seed..

 

[OR VietVet]

Howdy,

Having to replace my transmission as I have lost confidence in the unit enough to not just replace pieces. With the transmission out, is there maintenance I should have done while the back of the engine is exposed? Heard about upgrading the “barbell” diverter which would require pulling the rear cover which means the rear main is also a possibility. Anything else I’m not thinking of?

Thanks

Just this and look at the mounts while you are in there. Might also be a great time to replace the transmission and oil cooling lines.

 

[CTX-SLPR]

Just this and look at the mounts while you are in there. Might also be a great time to replace the transmission and oil cooling lines.

Trans cooler lines (with a 40K) are waiting for after the shop does the trans replacement. I am having them do it to get a labor warranty on the new reman trans otherwise I’d do it all myself. I don’t have an external oil cooler though I guess I should put that on the list of stuff to consider for added reliability.

The 5.3L isn’t getting much in the way of upgrades. I’d almost go as far as saying if I do a hard delete on AFM I’m putting a 6.0L in it…

 

[rdezs]

Billet torque converter. If you have the all-wheel drive, the input and output seals on the transfer case. It's a good time to do the u-joint if they're all still the originals. If all wheel drive, and over 200,000, I would replace the transfer case bearings and inspect the chain. Quite easy to do, and not expensive.

 

[OR VietVet]

Trans cooler lines (with a 40K) are waiting for after the shop does the trans replacement. I am having them do it to get a labor warranty on the new reman trans otherwise I’d do it all myself. I don’t have an external oil cooler though I guess I should put that on the list of stuff to consider for added reliability.

The 5.3L isn’t getting much in the way of upgrades. I’d almost go as far as saying if I do a hard delete on AFM I’m putting a 6.0L in it…

You don't have oil cooler lines from the radiator to the d/s of engine, near the motor mount?

 

[CTX-SLPR]

You don't have oil cooler lines from the radiator to the d/s of engine, near the motor mount?

Pretty sure I don’t, there’s just a factory block off plate above the oil filter that I need to change the gasket on.

It’s a RWD Yukon XL and yes the reman has a billet cover converter.

 

[OR VietVet]

Pretty sure I don’t, there’s just a factory block off plate above the oil filter that I need to change the gasket on.

It’s a RWD Yukon XL and yes the reman has a billet cover converter.

The block off plate explains it.

 

[rdezs]

Pretty sure I don’t, there’s just a factory block off plate above the oil filter that I need to change the gasket on.

It’s a RWD Yukon XL and yes the reman has a billet cover converter.

Well that simplifies things. I would definitely do your rear u-joints. Something I don't read a lot on here is that generally when you replace motor mounts for the transmission mount, it's recommended to replace all three. Now would be a good time to do it. The rear cover with the rear main and the barbell upgrade as mentioned earlier is pretty much a no-brainer.... The last thing you want to do is skip that and then one month or 6 months down the road your rear main starts leaking

 

[blondie70]

New Starter

 

[OR VietVet]

That and the driveshaft u-joints are a good call.
Isn't the knock sensors on side of block, next to starter?

 

[rdezs]

The "while you are in there" list can get as extensive as you want

While you have the starter out, you've got the crankshaft position sensor directly above it. Takes 1 minute to change it out.

Don't forget you're supposed to use new starter bolts anytime you remove the starter. (Although I suspect most people don't?)

The exhaust y-pipe will be removed. It's good practice to remove the O2 sensors first, to prevent vibration damage if using an impact. It's no extra labor to replace all four.

 

[CTX-SLPR]

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I'd like to point out that this is at a shop so I'm paying shop rates for stuff. I'm fully capable of dropping the starter later once it's back in my hands, I'm more thinking stuff that's behind the transmission that I'd have to drop that to get to.

As for the list, I'll put U-joints on the next RockAuto shopping cart for sure to swap them out. The O2s are new already as I changed them when poking around in the hydraulic complex on the current trans and had the Y-pipe down.

 

[rdezs]

Let's hope the shop didn't leave them installed while they hammered away with their impact getting the y-pipe off. But then again if you had it off recently, shouldn't have needed an impact.

 

[CTX-SLPR]

Attempts to find a shop that will do the work with my preferred vendor (StreetSmart) have fallen through so I'm going to do this myself.

Tell me if I'm wrong but it looks like you can get the oil pan out on a RWD with the transmission out without having to mess with the engine? If so I guess I'll consider doing that at the same time as a new gasket is cheap insurance and looks like it avoids the need for the rear seal alignment tool.

This brings the list to
* Street Smart 6L80 with billet converter
* OEM trans cooler lines and TruCool 40k aux cooler
* Rear main seal
* Barbell diverter
* Intake gaskets
* Oil Cooler block plate gasket
* Oil pan gasket (check the rotating assembly and pump bypass vent though pressure has been solid)
* New crush ring on the drivers side exhaust
* New U-joints

 

[blondie70]

Good start. Hang around....there's gonna be more !!!! ha ha ha.................good luck with it.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

 

[solli5pack]

Oil pressure sensor, motor mounts and if you're dropping the oil pan then oil pump o-ring

 

[rdezs]

A heat gun. Almost a necessity to unplug the harness from the transmission. It also helps to remove your intake, to tilt the back of the transmission down. Also to reach the upper bellhousing bolts. While you're in there you should consider a new oil pressure sending unit and intake manifold gasket

 

[rdezs]

Good start. Hang around....there's gonna be more !!!! ha ha ha.................good luck with it.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Oh yeah. Since the starters coming out, and if it looks really old.... It's a great time for a new AC Delco. Oil cooler line set. If you want to preserve your O2 sensors, I recommend taking them out before using any sort of impact on the exhaust. And well they're out.... It's a good excuse to splurge on a new set of O2 sensors, LOL

 

[rdezs]

I would recommend the felpro gaskets all around. I've had better luck with those than OEM. Front and rear seals as well. Head gaskets also.

Make sure when doing the rear main you follow Felpros instructions. It goes on dry. No amount of oil on the crank or on the seal itself, or it will leak. I know that goes against everything for the past 100 years of motoring.... But that's how it works now with the Teflon seal.