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I'm using an LS3 6.2L on my 73 Camaro so no DOD/AFM to fail. All aluminum so less weight up front and easy to get 500hp our of them while retaining great drivabilty and should get around 30mpg on the hwy in my 73.
Nice! where do you get those LS3 aluminum blocks? And is it possible without ransoming planet Earth to pay for it?
I watched auctions for 14 months before buying a 2011 Camaro 2SS for it's LS3 6.2L & 6 speed manual. Paid $6,400 but was too nice so I'm driving it now. 4 months later bought another 2011 Camaro 2SS for $5,300 then sold over $3,000 in parts leaving me with a great running LS3, 6 speeds manual trans, power heated leather seats, console, brake & fuel systems plus complete wiring harness.
Do you have a 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, or 2006?
well the previous models are using basically same parts that I can use for 2016.
Fair enough. I know almost nothing about the later models.
Finally getting around to upgrading the rear brakes with the parts listed.
If you're using the camaro calipers on the rear you will need to use the banjo bolts for the camaro calipers. Everything else should swap over. I changed all my brake hoses because they were the originals, and I've had too many brake lines blow out on me. To not change them.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
I realize this post was from a year ago, but it never got answered(unless I missed it). Anyone know the answer here on if 22" TBSS reps fit with the 2019+ brakes?
Are you talking about the rear calipers for a camaro they have bleed ports on front and back side. Also are the bleeder ports on the top side?
Yes it was properly bled and all pads and rotors are new. I haven't checked the master cylinder. My thought was that with being BBK on all four corners, I might need to upgrade to apply more pressure. But before I did any of that, I thought I'd check here 1st. I will look into your recommendation. Thank you!It's hard to tell from a distance.
If the car pulls to the right, the braking force seems stronger on the right side.
This can be caused by pressure differences. This can, in turn, be caused by air bubbles remaining in the system, although you'd usually notice this if the brake pedal felt too soft.
It could certainly also be caused by a defective master cylinder, although this wouldn't spontaneously break with such a conversion.
Or by different friction values of the brake pad/rotor combination. Are your brake pads and rotors new?
I recently had a Mercedes B-Class belonging to a friend that I repaired and wanted to take through the TÜV which is the German technical inspection for safety. The TÜV criticized unequal braking values on the right and left. The discs and pads looked as good as new, so I focused on the rest of the braking system.
In the end, it was the brake pads and rotors that somehow had different values. After I replaced them, everything was fine.
Just swap the discs and pads from left to right. Then you'll notice if the car suddenly pulls to the left.
Funny story, when I went to the TÜV inspection for the third time - I obviously don't have a brake tester in the workshop - the TÜV inspector was too tough on the brake tester and ripped off my front bumper... I think I was the first customer to get an TÜV inspection with a ripped off front bumper.
Yes, I am. They are all on top.
It will be tight. I would shave it down.
