Installing "2021 PPV" style 6-Piston Brembo Front Brakes on a 2007 Yukon Denali

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k_arnold72

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Could the 6 piston brembo brakes off a camaro also work? Or are those designed differently

Edit: I see that the 6 piston Camaro has 14.6" rotors and the 6 piston trucks use 16", so never mind this question
 
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Wesdoug84

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Could the 6 piston brembo brakes off a camaro also work? Or are those designed differently

Edit: I see that the 6 piston Camaro has 14.6" rotors and the 6 piston trucks use 16", so never mind this question
This has been mentioned earlier in the thread, but these rotors are also thicker than the rotors for the Chevy performance Brembo brakes. So these particular rotors only fit these particular calipers.
 

jyi786

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It should. GM doesn’t reinvent the wheel, which is why it fits on 2007-2014. You may have to do some slight grinding like I did, but it should work. Just make sure your wheels are at least 20” and +28 offset. I have plenty of room with my +19 offset.

Yes it will. Thanks for posting the critical offset and tire size info.

GM doesn’t make it public but most of the suspension components in 07-14 & 15-20 (full size suv) are interchangeable by changing from a steel to aluminum knuckle and adding the 2015+ tie rod ends. Some 07-14 SUV actually have the 2015+ all aluminum front suspension from the factory.

GM also adopted the electro servo steering from the 09-13 Hybrid SUV into all other 2015+ full size SUV.
My 2019 Escalade ESV has the stock rims, which according to this, is +31 offset.


I don't know the difference between how offsets work. It was mentioned earlier in this thread that 2021+ PPV rims are +28 offset. Does this mean my rims will not work? I do NOT want to use extra spacers and studs. For me, either this is bolt on (aside from the washers between the caliper and the spindle), or I won't even attempt. I won't be doing any grinding either.

Edit: looks like it won't. Did some research, and it seems that the lower the offset, the easier it is to clear big calipers.


Edit 2: Now I'm confused. I checked my build sheet directly from Cadillac, and it says my rims are option code Q7L, which has a +24 offset, according to this.

 
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RTLINGR2

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The Sierra Honeycomb 20" wheels clear with ease as well. There is more than a fingers worth of room between the spokes and the caliper.
Thats good to know. Thanks for the update on the honeycombs. I have an 05 Tahoe with those wheels. Looking at the 16" rotors and 6 piston calipers for it in the future. I already upgraded to the 13" rotors for the front. My rears are already 13" with dual piston calipers factory. I felt my rears are already better than the 7-14 rears. So I left them alone.
 

09 LTZ

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Hi all, this thread has been great to revisit all of the research everyone has done. I do not have PPV brakes, but I put a used set of the GM Performance Brembo 6 piston calipers on my 2018 Tahoe RST when I got the truck (used, had 20k miles on it). The GMPP Bembo calipers were out of a junkyard and came with used pads (Brembo OEM, were ~80% worn) but I put PowerStop Z36-1910 pads and Dynamic Friction 90047079 blank rotors on when I did the swap to have all fresh stuff and the setup worked well for ~20k miles (SOOO much better than the dinky OEM front brakes) but then I felt some vibration from rotor warp that got progressively worse. Pads were fine, so I swapped rotors to a set of blank Centric CEN-120.62180 rotors and again, after ~20k miles I got pedal vibration and pad kick back. At that point the PowerStop pads were worn down to indicators so I put in the used OEM Bembo pads that I got with the calipers with a set of R1 Concepts 63147079 drilled and slotted rotors. Side note - The Power Stop pads have nowhere near the bite that the OEM Brembo pads do when cold, do come around with some heat, but just not nearly as good pedal feel.

I am at about 20k miles since putting those OEM Brembo pads and the R1 rotors in and the pads are starting to hit the wear indicators and again I have rotor warp and pad kickback, and lots of vibration feeding into the truck under harder braking.

I am admittedly a hard and late braker (my other car is a 2019 ZL1 1LE and I might drive the Tahoe like it is capable of the same things) and I do tow a car trailer with car (ZL1) occasionally. But that is the point. I put the brakes on to be able to handle..... well, me.

I am about to do pads and rotors again and this time I opted to get some GM OEM stuff to see if I can get more life out of the rotors before they are warping. I ordered the GM OEM 1711202 pads off Rock Auto and found a set of the GM PPV 84879622 rotors on eBay. It's roughly double the rotor cost of aftermarket and three times the price for the pads over aftermarket. I am hoping the higher quality material of an OEM rotor with OEM pads will hold up, and the pedal feel and performance of the Brembo pads is worth the extra money in my mind.

Not sure if anybody has combined the parts I am, but figured this might help others. I will try to measure piston diameter in my calipers when I have it apart as well.
 

MrMonte

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I am at about 20k miles since putting those OEM Brembo pads and the R1 rotors in and the pads are starting to hit the wear indicators and again I have rotor warp and pad kickback, and lots of vibration feeding into the truck under harder braking.

I am admittedly a hard and late braker
After a hard stop do you let off the brake roll forward abit before holding the brake peddle down? This will reduce the chance of warping. High carbon rotors help to reduce warping as well.

I have all the parts to upgrade to 16" PPV 6 piston Brembos in front & 4 piston Brembos in rear on my 2018 Yukon Denali with 122K miles on the original brakes.
 

09 LTZ

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After a hard stop do you let off the brake roll forward abit before holding the brake peddle down? This will reduce the chance of warping. High carbon rotors help to reduce warping as well.

I have all the parts to upgrade to 16" PPV 6 piston Brembos in front & 4 piston Brembos in rear on my 2018 Yukon Denali with 122K miles on the original brakes.
Oh yes, definitely never sit still after a hard brake event. I will roll forward slowly for a few feet or more pretty much at every stoplight, and if I know I got after the brakes a lot on a given drive, I will do some cool down time before parking. When I trailer I drive like an old man too.

I also do a proper bed-in of pads and seasoning of the rotors every time I am replacing pads or rotors or both. I have learned how to get better life out of brakes road racing various cars, so I apply that to my daily drivers too.
 

skpyle

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Hi all, this thread has been great to revisit all of the research everyone has done. I do not have PPV brakes, but I put a used set of the GM Performance Brembo 6 piston calipers on my 2018 Tahoe RST when I got the truck (used, had 20k miles on it). The GMPP Bembo calipers were out of a junkyard and came with used pads (Brembo OEM, were ~80% worn) but I put PowerStop Z36-1910 pads and Dynamic Friction 90047079 blank rotors on when I did the swap to have all fresh stuff and the setup worked well for ~20k miles (SOOO much better than the dinky OEM front brakes) but then I felt some vibration from rotor warp that got progressively worse. Pads were fine, so I swapped rotors to a set of blank Centric CEN-120.62180 rotors and again, after ~20k miles I got pedal vibration and pad kick back. At that point the PowerStop pads were worn down to indicators so I put in the used OEM Bembo pads that I got with the calipers with a set of R1 Concepts 63147079 drilled and slotted rotors. Side note - The Power Stop pads have nowhere near the bite that the OEM Brembo pads do when cold, do come around with some heat, but just not nearly as good pedal feel.

I am at about 20k miles since putting those OEM Brembo pads and the R1 rotors in and the pads are starting to hit the wear indicators and again I have rotor warp and pad kickback, and lots of vibration feeding into the truck under harder braking.

I am admittedly a hard and late braker (my other car is a 2019 ZL1 1LE and I might drive the Tahoe like it is capable of the same things) and I do tow a car trailer with car (ZL1) occasionally. But that is the point. I put the brakes on to be able to handle..... well, me.

I am about to do pads and rotors again and this time I opted to get some GM OEM stuff to see if I can get more life out of the rotors before they are warping. I ordered the GM OEM 1711202 pads off Rock Auto and found a set of the GM PPV 84879622 rotors on eBay. It's roughly double the rotor cost of aftermarket and three times the price for the pads over aftermarket. I am hoping the higher quality material of an OEM rotor with OEM pads will hold up, and the pedal feel and performance of the Brembo pads is worth the extra money in my mind.

Not sure if anybody has combined the parts I am, but figured this might help others. I will try to measure piston diameter in my calipers when I have it apart as well.
Good to know on the wear and vibration. I have a little over 15,000 miles on my Brembo 6-piston calipers/Powerstop pads and rotors upgrade on my 2013 Escalade. I will pay attention as she wears.

Thanks!
 

k_arnold72

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4 piston brembo's in the rear you say? I was looking into doing that but I ran into alignment issues with the calipers I have. So you have pictures of yours?

After a hard stop do you let off the brake roll forward abit before holding the brake peddle down? This will reduce the chance of warping. High carbon rotors help to reduce warping as well.

I have all the parts to upgrade to 16" PPV 6 piston Brembos in front & 4 piston Brembos in rear on my 2018 Yukon Denali with 122K miles on the original brakes.
 

MrMonte

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4 piston brembo's in the rear you say? I was looking into doing that but I ran into alignment issues with the calipers I have. So you have pictures of yours?
Haven't installed yet but this is the adapter I purchased.
 

k_arnold72

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Oh okay, gotcha. I personally like the crescent moon look that the front brakes have, so I was trying to use camaro 4 piston front calipers as my rear brakes. Guess I was reaching to much. Rotor diameter is within a tenth of an inch, though, so it seemed like it was doable.

I'll look into that adapter and see if it helps my dilemma, thank you

Haven't installed yet but this is the adapter I purchased.
 

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Willied1981

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I just wanted to update this info. I just installed gmc Brembos,on a 2013 Yukon Denali. I have the factory 20 inch Denali and they clear and bolt right up.
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petethepug

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Awesomeness. Great way to tell the Mrs. your safety upgrade was a huge value add instead of replacing those antiquated, anemic old rotors and pads.

You can tell her; now you’ll be able to safely stop this thing like a police car.
:shakehead:
 
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NYBRD

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This thread helped me a lot with upgrading to the 2021 Tahoe PPV brakes on my 2008 Yukon. I created a video to help anyone performing this upgrade in the future. My factory 20” wheels with a +31 offset did not fit (the 2021 Tahoe PPV wheels have a +28 offset)
I believe my 22s have a 24 offset , anyone know if they will clear ?
 

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MrMonte

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I'm 127K miles on the original brakes on my 2018 Yukon Denali with plenty of pad left. I will be doing the Brembo brake upgrade this fall sometime. I did paint the calipers today and will clear them tomorrow.
I'm also installing ZL1 brakes on my wife's 2023 Camaro 2SS convertible and have them prepped to paint them rapid blue tomorrow with black Brembo decals.
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2011burbLTZ

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I just did the Brembo 16" swap on my 2011 suburban yesterday, I picked up the SUV about 4 weeks ago with 129k on it. Took me 6hrs most of this was dealing with brake bleeding which I probably need to get a scan tool that can cycle the ABS. I got GM performance Brembo calipers (new but cosmetically damaged) for $550 on ebay shipped. I got the Powerstop K8924 drilled/slotted rotors and Z23 carbon fiber ceramic pads for $250. Then got the SS AN washers, TRQ SS braided brake lines and the GM banjo bolts. What is nice is that the GM calipers came with bleed screws and the SS lines came with copper washers. Took me 5 min with a angle grinder with a cut disk and flap disk to modify the spindles, then used 2 SS AN washers on each mounting bolt to align the caliper. I'm using the stock size wheels (they are china knock offs apparently) which would have never cleared but I anticipated this with the 31 offset. I ordered some 12mm slip on hub centric spacers and extended 14x1.5mm lug nuts and the calipers barely clear the wheels with maybe 1/16" of distance between the caliper and wheel spokes. Besides the brake bleeding and the driver brake hard line seizing up (twisting the hard line) I was able to swap these over in 6hrs. Probably the easiest brake upgrade I have done. Still breaking in the pads/rotors but I hope good things from this! All in including 1 gallon of DOT 4 I'm in slightly under $1k!

FYI these GM calipers don't need the wheel speed sensor bracket bent or moved out of the way either.

I appreciate these threads as the stock brakes are not great and looked like they had the original rotors on this thing.
 

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2011burbLTZ

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Just an FYI I swapped out the stock wheel studs for longer Dorman 610-530. Reason is I was running 12mm spacers and extended lugs but wanted more than 1/16" clearance from the front wheel and caliper. I would like to eventually get some 22s with no spacers but these wheels are brand new and have brand new tires. Swapping the studs took me less than 3 min per stud using a $8 amazon tool. The process for the rear is more involved than the front though. While I had the rear calipers/rotors off I swapped to matching Z23 pads on the rear.

Front - pull everything down to the rub, I hit each stud with PB and then with a copper mallet and not alot of force I just banged them out. Where the caliper rides the dust cover is shorter and you can just bang it over slightly so the stud clears in that one spot. Then you take the new stud and I put a little anti seize on the spline and the threads, 3 large 3/4" washers to make up the difference in height for the stud install tool (first one got stuck on the stud shank) and 15s of uggas from my Milwaukee impact and she done.

Rear - slightly more involved but its the same process except no heat shield. For me I could get the stock lugs out but not get the new lug in due to the Ebrake pad/mechanism. I removed the two 8mm bolts holding the Ebrake pads to the axle flange, pushed off the ebrake cylinder and let it hang on the axle. This provides enough room to get the new lugs in the holes and then its easy as pie.

Using 15mm slip on hub centric spacers, all in all took maybe 1.5-2 hours to do all the wheels. I'm still using the extended lugs as I like that they grab more threads and the OE ones. Longer studs fit under the stock hub caps as well. Now I have roughly 5mm or so clearance from the caliper to the wheel.
 

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