Monz11
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Been researching short blocks, bc who knows what's inside and can be used. Seems Thompson has best price for a forged block at 800 hp!
Now hv to figure out if tranny will hold...another PITA!
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
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Now hv to figure out if tranny will hold...another PITA!
RooTBeeRthe1st
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Forged block? You must be going for big power!
I know you built that engine, where was the original block sourced from? and was it modified?
Monz11
Full Access Member
Yes, i had it bored out. It was original block less than 150k, b4 mod
Monz11
Full Access Member
Forged internals...looking at an aluminum instead of iron, so it's not so bloody heavy
might look for a 6.0 from a hybrid. the whole trucks can be found cheap on market place over the afm failures or hybrid battery dying and not being worth fixing. both go out about the same time and makes its but really worth fixing one without replacing the other.
aluminum block, never been abused, enough bore to take either style head. has higher compression pistons, but you'll be using new pistons anyways.
seen them practically giving them away non running.
Monz11
Full Access Member
Thanks, but probably going to end up buying a short block, most of the internals are probably toast...
Cheaper than parting out, machine work, building, etc. And I'm NOT doing it this time!
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Just finished installing a Diode Dynamics SS3 LED Fog Light Kit, "Pro" level, with the amber lenses swapped out for clear "SAE driving" lenses. The LEDs are 4K white if you order an amber set, and are 6K white if you order a clear set; I wanted the 4K color temperature, thus the amber set with the lens swap.
They're aimed parallel to the road surface, which makes for a bit more foreground lighting than I'd like, but the mounts can't go more than 1° up relative to the truck body without modifying them (my truck has a 1° nose-down rake with a driver and full tank of gas, so they're already aimed 1° up relative to the truck body).
I haven't modified the wiring yet, as I don't like the "piercing" type of tap that everyone uses. With the high beam relay being a PCB relay and the fog light relay being a regular plug-in one, it's making it more difficult than other vehicles that have all plug-in relays. EDIT to clarify #1: I'm not referring to connecting the lights to the vehicle harness, I'm referring to modifying the wiring so the driving lights come on with the high beams. Edit to clarify #2: I'm talking about the schematics of the functioning (i.e. how the circuit and components would be drawn on a diagram), not the principles of making wiring connections.
BTW, this is what's up with the driver-side headlight assembly. I just haven't done anything more with the headlights after getting my modifications functional on that side.
(sorry for the shaded pics, but you get the idea)
They're aimed parallel to the road surface, which makes for a bit more foreground lighting than I'd like, but the mounts can't go more than 1° up relative to the truck body without modifying them (my truck has a 1° nose-down rake with a driver and full tank of gas, so they're already aimed 1° up relative to the truck body).
I haven't modified the wiring yet, as I don't like the "piercing" type of tap that everyone uses. With the high beam relay being a PCB relay and the fog light relay being a regular plug-in one, it's making it more difficult than other vehicles that have all plug-in relays. EDIT to clarify #1: I'm not referring to connecting the lights to the vehicle harness, I'm referring to modifying the wiring so the driving lights come on with the high beams. Edit to clarify #2: I'm talking about the schematics of the functioning (i.e. how the circuit and components would be drawn on a diagram), not the principles of making wiring connections.
BTW, this is what's up with the driver-side headlight assembly. I just haven't done anything more with the headlights after getting my modifications functional on that side.
(sorry for the shaded pics, but you get the idea)
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my ss3 max plugged right in, no taping or cutting anything
Yes, they did plug right in with no taping or cutting anything. However, I'm not running them as fogs, I am running them as driving lights, so I need to modify the wiring so they'll come on with the high beams.
As I mentioned above, I'm not a fan of "piercing" modifications like Scotch-loks, so I'm not going with the Fleece unit.
Cut, solder and use heat shrink tubing with the type that has glue inside that seals/waterproofs with a heat gun. It’s the only way I do wiring on my rigs. I’m not taking any chances on water getting inside, I hate troubleshooting crappy wiring jobs that let water intrude. I’ve done a ton of electrical modifications over the years and mine have never failed.
Thanks for the suggestions, which happen to be the way I already do connections and terminations.
I suppose I need to clarify further, as I'm talking about the schematics of the triggering circuitry, not the physical wiring itself.
I have my fogs setup as driving lights as well. I used bi-led projectors, so they work as normal fogs, but when I hit high beam, they turn on if off and activat high. I just tapped into the head headlight wiring right above it. high beam wire with a big diode inline.
saved all the finding relays and stuff. Just one wire down to the flapper solenoid and power wire.
saved all the finding relays and stuff. Just one wire down to the flapper solenoid and power wire.
That's a neat setup! For reference, what bi-LED projectors did you use?
it's been a few years. so sure there's better now. these were just priced well and water proof that I thought I could build mounts for.
very happy with the light output. but some of today's you can change from white to yellow for foggy nights. I'd probably try some of those if I was to do it now.
. maybe something from this place.
3 Inch 90W Bi-LED Projector Lens Fog Light 6000K Hyperboloid Lens Fog Light With Matrix Auxiliary Beam For Toyota/Honda | 2 PCS/Set
With Matrix Auxiliary Beam Bi-LED Projector Lens Fog Light
auxbeam.com
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I ran some fogs like those before in the past, the ss3's blow those out of the water literally
I do get the feeling the diode dynamic fogs are good and plug and play. really nice setup. pricey but plug and play make it worth it for most. I had to build brackets and the adjustment is a bit fiddly but under 100$ at the time.
but I've not seen them in person for light output. I thought I read they are a true fixed fog light pattern, not really a driving light? and I just like the bi led setup for more throw down the road on high. the mishimoto headlights left a lot to be desired as far as light output alone. my fog lights on high output more light then my headlights do by a good amount.
As delivered, correct. Which is why I did the lens swap.
diode dynamics makes them in both spot or fog output, the fog output is a true oval pattern which is why I like them in dark area's I can see probably a 100ft on either side of the road.
great for both fog & side visibility, animals, people, vehicles on the side of the road.
I tried shopping around for anything even remotely comparable, with a fog pattern and high lumens. The problem is most cheaper lights either do not give the information or the output is a pittance by comparison, name brand wise the closest competitor is rigid with a slightly lower output but pretty much the same price, morimoto has lower output and only 5k color from what I remember and I believe the light pattern is more circular, not a wide pattern (I think they offer a bi-led)
