There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

[mountie]

I will have to look closer when I get the parts and get back to the work but that shaft can likely be unbolted and moved. Shall see. D/S is the harder side and I always do the hard side first.

Somewhere, I saw a steering shaft adaptor , using a CV joint, attached to the shaft to relocate the angle. Used for a retrofit engine/headers.

 

[OR VietVet]

Somewhere, I saw a steering shaft adaptor , using a CV joint, attached to the shaft to relocate the angle. Used for a retrofit engine/headers.

She has no steering problem and I plan to just concentrate on the valve cover.

 

[homesick]

Somewhere, I saw a steering shaft adaptor , using a CV joint, attached to the shaft to relocate the angle. Used for a retrofit engine/headers.

I saw where a steel swivel, from Jeeps, is a pretty common replacement/upgrade for GM's rag joint.

joe

 

[OR VietVet]

All hard parts got here today for the 2010 F150 5.4 and for the 2005 Tahoe LS.

I also needed the correct size rubber pinch weld pad for the floor jack arm cup to set in. The rubber pad came today. It is gonna be a perfect fit and set right down in the steel cup.
This should easily lift the door off the hinge pins and then roll off to the side and wait for reassembly. The pinch weld rubber channel comes in two depths. Pics of how this will work once I attach the floor jack arm cup.

 

[OR VietVet]

Neighbor on next block and called about a rattling noise on his 2003 Ram 2500 5.7 gas engine. I was getting ready to lean in and listen with my stethoscope and one of the belt idler pulleys let go. I stood back up and said, "Pretty sure I found your noise problem". I can be a real smart ass when needed. He is gone to go get parts, right now.

 

[OR VietVet]

Installed new tensioner and idler and reinstalled belt. All good. No abnormal noises.

 

[PPV_2018]

I can be a real smart ass when needed.

I was always of the philosophy , better to be a smart ass than a dumb ass .

 

[OR VietVet]

Tackled the valve covers replacements this morning. Went just fine but the upper intake air resonator had been broken before and Permatex'd together. I ordered a new part and will be here Tuesday and a simple replacement. It will take longer to cut the broken spring clamp off than anything else. I have seen shoddy workmanship from a couple of the shops she has receipts for. You can see in the pics the crud build up on the ignition coil boots. Everything else went as planned.

 

[OR VietVet]

 

[OR VietVet]

 

[89Suburban]

I envy you. I am dying here not tinkering. To damn cold and miserable. Even in the garage with the heaters going it still sucks.

 

[OR VietVet]

It was supposed to rain, on and off today. It clouded up and she dropped at 11:30. I really thought it would be tomorrow before I started. Sun was out and 43 degrees. The work went smoothly and so did the test drive. Just waiting on the air resonator to get here Tuesday. She is leaving it here till then.
The bar manager where I get tacos on Tuesday and Thursday, recommended her to contact me and next thing I know, she and her friend are customers.
I am still looking for a shop I can live at too.

 

[OR VietVet]

The final special tool I need for the widow of an AL friend that passed, 2005 Tahoe driver's door hinge pins work, is here. Now I can pick a sunny day and schedule the work. Gonna be doing a door latch actuator on the same door and a new blower motor and resistor, as well. Gonna be a busy day, in my driveway, when I do that work. I always like to do the harder job first, so that will be the hinge pins. As before, pics and a write up to follow.

 

[Fless]

Gonna be doing a door latch actuator on the same door and a new blower motor and resistor, as well.

Driver's door latch isn't a bad job. After doing mine I had some slack when pulling the outside handle, but fixed that by adjusting the linkage.

What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

oil change...6 quarts of Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W-30 Dexos 1 Generation 3 (I know not needed) and a Champ PH44XL synthetic oil filter... the Champ filter appears to me like the old A/C Delco UltraGuard Gold filters with the stronger "can", synthetic media and silicon drain back...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[OR VietVet]

Driver's door latch isn't a bad job. After doing mine I had some slack when pulling the outside handle, but fixed that by adjusting the linkage.

What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

oil change...6 quarts of Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W-30 Dexos 1 Generation 3 (I know not needed) and a Champ PH44XL synthetic oil filter... the Champ filter appears to me like the old A/C Delco UltraGuard Gold filters with the stronger "can", synthetic media and silicon drain back...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Yea, I been in the GMT800 doors a few times with no problems. Hers is just banged up from the hinge pins sag. First the pins, then the door latch, then the blower and then the resistor and then make sure the 40 amp fuse is good.

I seem to remember the linkage rods for the latch are a PITA, but doable with patience and memory.

 

[homesick]

The final special tool I need for the widow of an AL friend that passed, 2005 Tahoe driver's door hinge pins work, is here. Now I can pick a sunny day and schedule the work. Gonna be doing a door latch actuator on the same door and a new blower motor and resistor, as well. Gonna be a busy day, in my driveway, when I do that work. I always like to do the harder job first, so that will be the hinge pins. As before, pics and a write up to follow.

View attachment 449793

View attachment 449794

I agree. "Do the hard part first" is a basic wisdom.

joe

 

[Fless]

Yea, I been in the GMT800 doors a few times with no problems. Hers is just banged up from the hinge pins sag. First the pins, then the door latch, then the blower and then the resistor and then make sure the 40 amp fuse is good.

I seem to remember the linkage rods for the latch are a PITA, but doable with patience and memory.

The rods aren't all that difficult -- except for getting that yellow hinged one to "open" to release the outside door pull linkage. IIRC the others have access holes or come out after removing the actual latch from the mounting holes and working it out into the open a bit.

Here's what mine looked like when I pulled it out, ready to swap the linkage rods over to the new latch:

 

[OR VietVet]

The rods aren't all that difficult -- except for getting that yellow hinged one to "open" to release the outside door pull linkage. IIRC the others have access holes or come out after removing the actual latch from the mounting holes and working it out into the open a bit.

Here's what mine looked like when I pulled it out, ready to swap the linkage rods over to the new latch:

View attachment 449798

Yea, that yellow one is the "adjustment one". The top/cover flips up and the rod is serrated or threaded and can be moved to tighten or loosen and just snap the top/cover closed and it stays there. Gotta pay attention to where that is at when I swap the rod over to the new one. I promise to take as many pics as possible.

Sometimes, I want to take pics on something I am working on, and I get on a roll and don't want to stop to take a pic.

 

[Fless]

Yea, that yellow one is the "adjustment one". The top/cover flips up and the rod is serrated or threaded and can be moved to tighten or loosen and just snap the top/cover closed and it stays there. Gotta pay attention to where that is at when I swap the rod over to the new one. I promise to take as many pics as possible.

Sometimes, I want to take pics on something I am working on, and I get on a roll and don't want to stop to take a pic.

No need to pay much attention to where it is when you remove it. When you're ready to close the hinge, pull down on the rod to take the slack out of it and snap the hinge closed.

 

[OR VietVet]

I guess I will understand what you mean by "pull down the rod to take the slack out of it". When I get there.

Pulling down rod does what?