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There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches
- Thread starter OR VietVet
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OP
OP
Yesterday and today. Look what the p/s caliper pins did to my cheap Duralast T55 Torx. I have an SK T55 but when I tried with a 3/8" drive, I could not budge it. I had to get the 1/2" impact to break them loose. I was only replacing the front rotors for warpage.
OP
OP
Then on to the 2010 F150 with some problems. Coolant leak at the coolant crossover between heads. Severe Battery service needed. Frothy oil filler cap and oil fill tube but dipstick was fine. Going to do PCV lines and see if there is a PCV valve. RA does not list a PCV valve. The crossover gaskets were a PITA. The P/S has an aluminum corner that goes under the upper intake corner and you have to snake it in or pull the upper intake. The cable ends actually turned out pretty good.
I also did oil change, upper radiator hose and thermostat, cleaned throttle body and MAF and replaced the air filter and replaced the broken tailgate handle.
I also did oil change, upper radiator hose and thermostat, cleaned throttle body and MAF and replaced the air filter and replaced the broken tailgate handle.
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It seems like so many of your customers neglect their vehicles. Are you a magnet for those folks, or is it true of people in general?
Or, am I wrong in thinking it's so?
joe
Or, am I wrong in thinking it's so?
joe
OP
OP
They neglect because of cost and hard to get scheduled in to shops. With me they save on parts costs and the labor costs plus my clientele is my advertising. Plus, I watch and check when the vehicle is with me. Not gonna say I caused a problem. I take a lot of pics.
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Routine basic checks of fluids and things like battery connections have gone the way of the dodo bird for a lot of people. How many times do we see, even on this forum, people shocked that the engine oil level is two quarts low but they didn't know about it? "Gee, I thought it would go 7,500 miles without having to check or add anything." Sheesh.
OP
OP
When I first started at a gas station, before I went in the service, I would check oil and show the driver the oil was low and they would say, "the light isn't on, I'm good".
Now days, drivers are only paying attention if lights go crazy or it dies. The lady on the F150, is a widow, so I am training her and have told her that, for free, she can come by any time and I will check under the hood.
Now days, drivers are only paying attention if lights go crazy or it dies. The lady on the F150, is a widow, so I am training her and have told her that, for free, she can come by any time and I will check under the hood.
OP
OP
After talking to the lady that owns the F150, I ordered two new valve cover assemblies, with the pcv valve system in the driver's side valve cover. They were both seeping oil anyway and I had shown her that a couple days ago. Going to replace the line from the intake to the d/s valve cover and the oil fill tube and cap, as well.
OP
OP
So, depending on RA delivery from Fed Ex and UPS, I will likely be replacing complete valve covers, pcv tube/line from d/s valve cover to the intake and the oil fill tube and cap on a 2010 F150 2wd with a 5.4 engine. Her oil fill tube/cap, see previous pics, had the milky looking froth build up because she makes a lot of short trips and my shop owner friend calls that oil fill tube "a steam pipe" and sees that a lot on the short trip trucks he works on at his shop, aptly named Truck Works. The valve covers were leaking anyway and the gaskets were being planned but the fear of the pcv system, in the d/s valve cover being gummed up, has caused her to choose complete valve cover replacement.
The valve covers look pretty straight forward but the oil dipstick tube will need to be unbolted and moved a bit and the steering shaft will be in the way just a bit. Pics and write up to follow.
The valve covers look pretty straight forward but the oil dipstick tube will need to be unbolted and moved a bit and the steering shaft will be in the way just a bit. Pics and write up to follow.
OP
OP
Now, on to the job that will mean a lot to me. The widow of an American Legion friend, has a 2005 Tahoe LS with the 5.3. Has sloppy d/s door hinge pins and when parts get here, gonna do that work too. I do not have a cherry picker to lift the door but I do have a floor jack rubber pad that is for pinch welds and plan to use that. The complete door removal is the way to go, since I will be grinding the heads off of the pins. If had been done before and bolted in like the new GM replacement pins will be or washers and "C" clips used, I could work around the door, I THINK?
I know about removing the threshold cover and the kick panel and unplugging the harnesses and umbilical cord and the 3 10mm bolts and then lifting the door off. Any insight or time saving steps.....please share. Pics and write up when I do the work.
I know about removing the threshold cover and the kick panel and unplugging the harnesses and umbilical cord and the 3 10mm bolts and then lifting the door off. Any insight or time saving steps.....please share. Pics and write up when I do the work.
Wonder if a catch can would help out the situation for the future?
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Flag about the steering shaft......
OP
OP
Had not thought about that. Any suggestions?
OP
OP
I don't get what you are saying.
OP
OP
I did some checking at ebay. Found a kit made by a company called J&L that looks like the easiest ever kit to install. There is a factory quick connect line from the intake to the d/s valve cover pcv port. Very easy to get to & install. The kit has a easily installed hanger bracket and 2 hoses that attach the same way as the quick connect line.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/374804603819
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it's in the way?? I believe I read?
OP
OP
I did not know what you meant by "flag". It is in the way but I believe I can work past it. If I remove the upper intake, easy to do, I can move the harnesses enough that there is room to work and maneuver the cover out and in. I really am not worried about it.
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Ahh... I thought a rigid metal part was kind of in the way...... ( I was always bad at homework )
OP
OP
I will have to look closer when I get the parts and get back to the work but that shaft can likely be unbolted and moved. Shall see. D/S is the harder side and I always do the hard side first.
