dod delete etc: proper way to get part numbers?

[persistent]

i'm in the planning stage of doing a dod delete, and i want to replace several other engine components as part of the process, per this yt video.

a generic issue i have is that i don't know the proper way to get a list of oem part numbers. i have the service and repair manual for this 2020 6.2L tahoe, but it's light on part numbers. the diagrams and procedures are clear from the manual, so i don't anticipate any confusion on the processes.

i'm planning on replacing the vacuum pump, belts, oil pressure sensor, high pressure fuel pump, water pump, and spark plugs, in addition to doing the dod delete. i see some comments about replacing the oil pump being risky because if it isn't installed correctly, it can cause oil pressure problems and is hard to access.

i would appreciate any pointers on the dod delete process. i've already done most of the background reading and watched several videos about the process.

thanks for reading

 

[Big Mama]

Welcome to the forum from Virginia. Lots of places have ready to go kits. If you want to upgrade any parts go to gmpartsdirect and enter your vin. My rig doesn’t have AFM so I’m going off posts here.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I suggest that you call the folks at Texas Speed or Summit Racing. They are very knowledgeable in this area, and with your VIN, they should be able to provide you with the information that you need.

 

[persistent]

i'm most of the way through the disassembly process at this point, and i've got some notes after following the video. my plan is to note the part numbers once the disassembly is complete and then order replacements. i appreciate the cue to check gmpartsdirect, very helpful.

definitely drain your coolant - and optionally the transmission fluid and engine oil - before starting this process. in the video, the narrator uses a few tricks to drain some coolant, but even trying to keep it clean, i made a big mess. save yourself the hassle and just proactively drain the coolant.

the process of removing the fan shroud is out of order. i couldn't get the shroud to come out without disconnecting the coolant, transmission fluid, and engine oil lines running to the radiator.

to remove the starter, i had to follow the proper procedure and get access to the wiring via the passenger side wheel cover to disconnect it. this should be done _before_ removing the 2 bolts securing it on the underside, to ease disconnecting the harness with safety clip. this is the only part of the process i was confused by - what is the purpose of removing the starter? i thought it might be related to installing the crankshaft lock.

in general, i was amazed at how much i needed to lean in and reach to get to bolts and clips at the far/back side of the engine compartment. i'm 6'1" and have slightly longer than average arms, and i struggled to reach some of the furthest bolts and clips. this would have been super hard if i were a bit shorter. this makes me wonder if there is some optional tool to extend a sort of cradle over the engine compartment to make the work less difficult in terms of reaching/access.

 

[MD-Wood]

I made the rad support and fenders as padded as possible and spent alot of time laying chest down on them through out a DOD/VVT delete. I also used cinder blocks layed on the ground flat side up on the concrete in a halo around the front end to step on as needed. there was also the times when i just climbed into the engine bay sitting on the rad support. Nothing worth while is ever easy they say!
The only tip that comes to mind is to heat your crank gear so it will slide right on. Toaster oven and welding gloves work great!

 

[persistent]

i'm having a real tough time getting this balancer bolt loose.

i've got the flywheel holding tool installed, so the crankshaft doesn't move. i have a dewalt dcf900 impact wrench, with a claimed max breaking torque of 1400 ft-lbs, and i managed to crack the 24 mm deep socket after a few unsuccessful rounds of hammering at highest setting. i've done 1 application of penetrating oil around the bolt head and gap between the balancer and the timing cover. i tried heating with a propane hand torch for roughly 45 seconds without success.

i am aware that larger high torque air impact wrenches can generate 3000+ ft-lbs, but i would like to avoid buying new tools that i won't reuse regularly. anyone got advice on how to get this bolt off? maybe use a sae socket for better fit?

 

[swathdiver]

...i don't know the proper way to get a list of oem part numbers.

Plug your VIN into these two websites:

https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/acesCat.php

www.GMPartsGiant.com

 

[JMH1980]

i'm having a real tough time getting this balancer bolt loose.

i've got the flywheel holding tool installed, so the crankshaft doesn't move. i have a dewalt dcf900 impact wrench, with a claimed max breaking torque of 1400 ft-lbs, and i managed to crack the 24 mm deep socket after a few unsuccessful rounds of hammering at highest setting. i've done 1 application of penetrating oil around the bolt head and gap between the balancer and the timing cover. i tried heating with a propane hand torch for roughly 45 seconds without success.

i am aware that larger high torque air impact wrenches can generate 3000+ ft-lbs, but i would like to avoid buying new tools that i won't reuse regularly. anyone got advice on how to get this bolt off? maybe use a sae socket for better fit?

4 foot breaker bar should crack it loose. Then run it out with your impact. That's probably the cheapest option

 

[Geotrash]

The only tool I have that works on really tight balancer bolts is the top air impact wrench that harbor freight sells. When I had to get the Jesus bolt off my old 740iL, I tried cheater pipes, lesser air impact wrenches, and electric impact wrenches. None would do it. Finally got it with the good air impact wrench. Can’t remember the model number, but I used a top quality impact socket as well.

 

[Big Mama]

I’ve had decent luck turning it to the right slightly then going back to the left.

 

[persistent]

The only tool I have that works on really tight balancer bolts is the top air impact wrench that harbor freight sells. When I had to get the Jesus bolt off my old 740iL, I tried cheater pipes, lesser air impact wrenches, and electric impact wrenches. None would do it. Finally got it with the good air impact wrench. Can’t remember the model number, but I used a top quality impact socket as well.

i've got a 40 in breaker with 3/4 drive (largest i could find on amazon) coming today, so i will give that a try once it arrives. even with a 40 in lever, i wouldn't expect to be able to match the torque from my current battery impact wrench.

i spoke to a mechanic that works at a shop that does dod deletes. he said they would always use the big air impact wrenches at his shop for balancer bolts. if i can't make any headway with the new breaker, i'll go this route.

 

[persistent]

I’ve had decent luck turning it to the right slightly then going back to the left.

can't believe i forgot to do this.

it worked on the first try. i'm moving again, thank you

 

[persistent]

got the camshaft out and have a few more notes for anyone else doing this:

- walking the timing chain off the phaser sprocket is tricky. i burned about 2 hrs in total screwing around with it, but it's a 5-15 min job if you know what you're doing. after watching several videos that weren't especially helpful in terms of the technique to use to walk it off, i developed my own. first, you need at least 1 smaller screwdriver that has the just the right shaft diameter. if the diameter is too big, it prevents you from having enough play to push the chain over the sprocket, and if it's too small, you can't get the leverage you need to wiggle the chain. once you have 1 screwdriver with the "just right" diameter, you can use a pair of other less-perfectly-sized screwdrivers to pry the chain behind the sprocket. it's easiest to pry the chain behind the sprocket when the lead screwdriver is further from the pry point.

- i found that having a 2nd person to set the pin to hold the timing chain tensioner in place was a hard requirement. it only takes a couple minutes of someone else's time, but i couldn't generate the force required to compress the tensioner _and_ get the pin in from that position.

- when removing the camshaft, it would be ideal to have a second person to gently push the ac condenser grill back to give the space needed to remove the camshaft. i did this by myself and bent some of the condenser fins, and i hope i did not create a leak in the condenser as a result. i will have to test for pressure loss before reassembly.

i am in the process of ordering the replacement parts, and i was able to find most of them on gmpartsdirect to confirm part numbers. however, there are a few parts that i need to confirm are correct before ordering that i was hoping to get some help with, primarily the camshaft.

in the video, he says that he's working on a 6.2 L engine in his yukon, and the camshaft he uses as a replacement is part number 12672469, described as L8T camshaft for L83 5.3 L engines. afaict, this camshaft doesn't match for a 6.2 L engine (L86), but it is indeed a non-dod camshaft. i want to retain oem performance with a non-dod/non-afm camshaft. i see texas speed has a camshaft that looks like a better fit, TSP-316804, but i wanted to get input before potentially making a questionable decision here.

i noticed that gmpartsdirect seems to have none of the high pressure fuel parts listed, i.e. high pressure fuel pump (GDP105), intermediate fuel line (GDL109), crossover fuel line (GDL704), and fuel pump lifter (GDF103). is this expected and does anyone have advice on confirming these parts match?

 

[persistent]

i'm currently working around my problems sourcing replacement parts from gmpartsdirect (i cannot recommend everyone avoid this site more strongly, it is a scam), and i have run into a pretty nasty step: reinstalling the timing chain over the cam phaser sprocket.

i spent 2-3 hrs on removing the cam sprocket, eventually getting it off without any damage, but when attempting reassembly, i managed to break the sprocket by knocking the spring-loaded front of it out. i have a replacement coming tomorrow, and i'm keen to not break the sprocket again.

can anyone offer some advice on how to reinstall the sprocket without damaging it? i have the chain tensioner pinned back, so there should be enough slack on the chain to get it installed.

i'm not keen on trying to pivot to an engine out procedure here because that would be a lot more work. i do now see why the service manual indicates this is an engine out procedure, ugh.

 

[L8T BURB]

@MrMonte Are you able to assist here? Seems like I remember you spelling out how you navigated this issue when you deleted your AFM last year?

 

[persistent]

after spending a few hours perusing the service manual and seeing that i broke the plastic chain guide on the right side of the timing chain tensioner assembly, i've decided to drop the oil pan, so i can reinstall the cam sprocket and timing chain properly without this prying nonsense.

the only apprehension i have is reinstalling the oil pump. i see comments in the manual about using an alignment tool being required. some input on the reinstallation of the oil pump would be helpful.