What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Sam Harris

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finally installed my window wiper seals on the front doors. ( they are cheap too from RA at least) replaced the driver side reg and motor. and replaced the heated seat, memory for the seats and the brake and gas pedals adjustments module. looks like rain this weekend again. lets hope the heaters stay the hell off after a rain storm.

next is the dead rear pass window. and sanding the hood smooth and trying my hand at wrapping. picked up a maroon carbon fiber looking wrap. looks to be a close match in color.

anyone whos glass is loose when its open, and it fails to wipe off water, dew, ect ect when you open the window, those things are so easy to change its silly. loosen the mirror, just unbolt it. dont even have to pull it off or unplug it, then stick a trim tool under the lip by the mirror and pull it up and tear it off, easy peasy. damn glass is so tight now even the new reg and motor are like, hey this is tight, so it moves slowly the first handful of times.
I need to do this for the rear windows. Which set did you get? Looks like they have “Fairchild” or “Precision”. Or did you go with the Dorman single pieces..?
 

Scottydoggs

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I need to do this for the rear windows. Which set did you get? Looks like they have “Fairchild” or “Precision”. Or did you go with the Dorman single pieces..?
i got the PRECISION WFP111099 (Kit) came with both front seals. solid parts for sure.
 

HansJr

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Swapped the front end to HD front finally.

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Scottydoggs

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Installed and wired a dual battery setup and wired everything but the joystick into the cab for a Boss plow install.
that brings me back to the days. i had a fisher, so a western joy stick. i bent the bracket off it round and bolted it to the lower dash trim on the left side by the door. this way i could raise the plow and be backing up at the same time. i had dual 1000 cca batterys, the volts hardly dropped when using the plow. went way faster then just one battery.
 

cooki3mnster

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New Wheels and Tires for the Yukon this week. Went with a 17X9 Method Double Standard and Falken Wildpeak AT3/W in 285/70/17. Swapped in some Pro Comp keys and turned the bars up a bit. I wasn't able to get enough lift out of it to not rub. I'm trying to source some lower mileage torsion bars.


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cooki3mnster

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Weird, these measure 11.5" across the tread and are 32.8" tall. My fender to ground measurements are 36" in front and 37.5" in the rear. There's only the slightest bit of rubbing on the drivers front where the washer bottle sits.
 

project_x

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Weird, these measure 11.5" across the tread and are 32.8" tall. My fender to ground measurements are 36" in front and 37.5" in the rear. There's only the slightest bit of rubbing on the drivers front where the washer bottle sits.
I will measure mine tonight...i don't have any rubbing
 

Scottydoggs

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Do you have pictures you can share? I've been thinking about doing this in my truck.
when i did this years and years ago (ive lost all them pics in a pc crash) you buy a battery tray that fits up in the pass side at the fire wall, ( you need to remove the brace in that corner too. it never goes back on) get one longer battery stud for the original battery for the pos post, run a new bat cable from pos to pos. i ran mine across the top of the rad and zip tied it to the harness there already, then run a short neg cable to the engine block.

man i paid like 70 bucks for this damn thing back in 04 at the dealership lol

from the looks of this listing, you may need to buy the wedge and bolt that holds the battery in tight.

 

Tonyrodz

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when i did this years and years ago (ive lost all them pics in a pc crash) you buy a battery tray that fits up in the pass side at the fire wall, ( you need to remove the brace in that corner too. it never goes back on) get one longer battery stud for the original battery for the pos post, run a new bat cable from pos to pos. i ran mine across the top of the rad and zip tied it to the harness there already, then run a short neg cable to the engine block.

man i paid like 70 bucks for this damn thing back in 04 at the dealership lol

from the looks of this listing, you may need to buy the wedge and bolt that holds the battery in tight.

When I bought my 03, it came with the passenger side battery tray already installed. I thought they all came with it installed whether it was optioned with the 2nd battery or not. Strange. What advantages does having a 2nd battery? I don't have any serious current draws--cranking power?
 

Scottydoggs

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When I bought my 03, it came with the passenger side battery tray already installed. I thought they all came with it installed whether it was optioned with the 2nd battery or not. Strange. What advantages does having a 2nd battery? I don't have any serious current draws--cranking power?
i only did the extra battery cause id seen other plow trucks set up like that. and their plows all moved faster. one battery when when moving the plow the volt gauge would just drop to almost nothing, every light would dim too. you'd hear the plow motor get slower. (most are really just a starter motor turning a pump) with two it hardly ever dropped past 10 volts. and it ran dare i say, double speed almost.

truck i did this to was a 2500HD 4x4 with a snow plow prep package. you'd think they would just come that way. all the diesels back then did tho. i dont recall seeing two in a few friends duramax trucks tho. i dont see any reason to do this other then a large battery draw. like maybe some huge amps, or a salt spreader/plow.
 

project_x

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Do you have pictures you can share? I've been thinking about doing this in my truck.
I will take some as soon as the rain stops.
I bought the OEM batter tray off Amazon and the Vevor automatic dual battery kit off of eBay. Very simple to install, I bought split loom to cover all the power wire.

About $100 plus the battery. I had a crimper for shortening the power lines.
 

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