Engine runs cold

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

hmclaughlin67

TYF Newbie
Joined
Oct 15, 2023
Posts
28
Reaction score
35
I recently got a 2005 Yukon XL. The engine runs cold all the time, which signals a stuck open thermostat. I’ve replaced it twice, so a total of 3 thermostats, and the problem still happens. It will reach operating temp while in park, but will eventually overheat and the fans never turn on. Replaced the fans too, and they still don’t turn on. It’s as if the thermostat is stuck closed when parked, but open when driving. I assume it must be an electrical issue or something, but not sure on where to start. Any ideas?
 

OR VietVet

GMT800 2005 Tahoe Z71
Navy Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
23,704
Reaction score
44,124
Location
Willamette Valley
Welcome to the forum.

First thing to remember is that the gauge is just a reference and not completely accurate, some times. Need a laser temp gun to check all readings. Might want to get one of these to know that you have a chance of accurate readings being sent: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinf...1BXBeqi9UL+Ra983xch91eva1pzmX0odU+EviSbuMJK6x

When you say it overheats, what temp is showing and how do you know it is overheating? Stick with Genuine GM parts, when you can.
 
OP
OP
H

hmclaughlin67

TYF Newbie
Joined
Oct 15, 2023
Posts
28
Reaction score
35
Welcome to the forum.

First thing to remember is that the gauge is just a reference and not completely accurate, some times. Need a laser temp gun to check all readings. Might want to get one of these to know that you have a chance of accurate readings being sent: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1145874&cc=1504410&pt=4748&jsn=991&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq+EvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbh+YrdIIoJ2QMq9prrkIerbFMqky5nGcn4teOg9r2Sw3+Pr1CNOXFqQFzxO1xi2naIVVDqptp38yXkE5m0eM5QCA+y15xTcreiyKbrkDUxw8hiDTRm3mksJ9AP1HFO4K5TmAzi6MNBaPQ7CtV+Xav4ITw/GiJhmqXXHpB+pYHri3LjUtnTR9mmP9YASRZK1NHNJpma46wxvz8j6SGthmzgVHsthVCok1BXBeqi9UL+Ra983xch91eva1pzmX0odU+EviSbuMJK6x

When you say it overheats, what temp is showing and how do you know it is overheating? Stick with Genuine GM parts, when you can.
OBD-2 says it reaches above 210, I shut it off before it reaches 215. And the gauge is correct, both OBD and the gauge cluster are the same, and when they both say the engine is hot, the heat is hot as well as the upper radiator hose indicating that it is actually hot when it says it is and cool when it does.
 

Breadman03

TYF Newbie
Joined
Oct 7, 2023
Posts
10
Reaction score
27
I’m his shop laborer/dad. Here’s what I was going to post:

My kid’s “new” Yukon is having some odd symptoms. It slowly warms up while idling and will eventually get up to 210-215 (read with my OBD2 live data, dash gauge matches pretty well) without the fans ever turning on. We replaced the fan assembly and the new one doesn’t turn on. I plan on pulling out my multimeter to see if any power is being sent to them and trace it back as the fuses look good, but are hard to see with a brace over the fan fuse box. Any pointers?

Secondly, it cools off to the 140’s while driving. Thermostat, right? Well, we replaced it twice and it still does the same thing. We also used a thermometer in boiling water to watch it open up, then fully close by about 186°. This is what really didn’t make sense to me. The thermostat seems to be working but the temperature still drops??? The upper radiator hose warms up as the engine does, suggesting some level of coolant flow before the thermostat should be open. Is the system supposed to weep some flow through, or did we somehow replace a bad thermostat with two more new/bad t-stats? I can’t imagine the odds of getting 2 new bad thermostats from different sources (Autozone and NAPA).

Relevant info: Both heater cores were clogged. We gently backflushed them and got the front one clear with good flow using our garden hose, but the rear core still isn’t flowing based on line temperature. We’re going to pull the rear lines and flush them separately but didn’t want to risk breaking a part we can’t replace before work and school tomorrow.
 
Last edited:

Fless

Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Apr 2, 2017
Posts
16,283
Reaction score
33,661
Location
People's Republic of Colorado
You'll want to thoroughly check the fan relays to make sure they're operating correctly. If I'm not mistaken, the fans should (may?) come on automatically if the A/C is turned on. Also, pull the two connectors to the PCM and look for water migration and pin fitment.

Having said that, the slow warmup is an issue. The stock radiator has a restrictor in the fitting for the small hose that runs from the right (passenger) side of the radiator to the surge tank. If the radiator's been replaced at some point and it no longer has that restrictor, the engine might never warm up, or could take a long time. Too much flow into the surge tank causes that problem. You can test the theory by pinching off -- mostly but not completely -- the hose to the surge tank to see if you get a quicker warmup.

There are several threads on here about the restrictor, and I'll post a short one below. If you're interested in others, search or yell and we'll see about finding a couple more.

 
OP
OP
H

hmclaughlin67

TYF Newbie
Joined
Oct 15, 2023
Posts
28
Reaction score
35
You'll want to thoroughly check the fan relays to make sure they're operating correctly. If I'm not mistaken, the fans should (may?) come on automatically if the A/C is turned on. Also, pull the two connectors to the PCM and look for water migration and pin fitment.

Having said that, the slow warmup is an issue. The stock radiator has a restrictor in the fitting for the small hose that runs from the right (passenger) side of the radiator to the surge tank. If the radiator's been replaced at some point and it no longer has that restrictor, the engine might never warm up, or could take a long time. Too much flow into the surge tank causes that problem. You can test the theory by pinching off -- mostly but not completely -- the hose to the surge tank to see if you get a quicker warmup.

There are several threads on here about the restrictor, and I'll post a short one below. If you're interested in others, search or yell and we'll see about finding a couple more.

It does take longer to heat up, but it also heats up and then proceeds to overheat if just parked and idling. Any ideas for that?
 

OR VietVet

GMT800 2005 Tahoe Z71
Navy Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
23,704
Reaction score
44,124
Location
Willamette Valley
You'll want to thoroughly check the fan relays to make sure they're operating correctly. If I'm not mistaken, the fans should (may?) come on automatically if the A/C is turned on. Also, pull the two connectors to the PCM and look for water migration and pin fitment.

Having said that, the slow warmup is an issue. The stock radiator has a restrictor in the fitting for the small hose that runs from the right (passenger) side of the radiator to the surge tank. If the radiator's been replaced at some point and it no longer has that restrictor, the engine might never warm up, or could take a long time. Too much flow into the surge tank causes that problem. You can test the theory by pinching off -- mostly but not completely -- the hose to the surge tank to see if you get a quicker warmup.

There are several threads on here about the restrictor, and I'll post a short one below. If you're interested in others, search or yell and we'll see about finding a couple more.

IIRC, besides the PCM, isn't there a fan module that kicks them on at the correct temp, when a/c is not on.
 

Fless

Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Apr 2, 2017
Posts
16,283
Reaction score
33,661
Location
People's Republic of Colorado
Is what I am thinking about something that has to be wired in when adding fans to a fan clutch truck?

The fan harness, relays, and a connection to the PCM. Non OE conversions need to have the PCM tuned to turn the fans on. The OP's is a 2005 so it comes that way from the factory.

Tahoe Fan Harness.jpg
 
Last edited:

Breadman03

TYF Newbie
Joined
Oct 7, 2023
Posts
10
Reaction score
27
Okay, so a c-clamp adjusted (and double zip-tied in) so there is just a little flow into the reservoir had a quick warm up and kept temps between 186 and 205 on a road test. Thanks for the assist!

Now to work on the fans. Oh, and the dash gauge just died I expected a good bit of wrenching, so no biggie. Finding Something with minimal rust was a greater concern for me.
 

Scottydoggs

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2017
Posts
2,881
Reaction score
4,516
Location
NJ
unplug the coolant temp sensor, both fans should default to on at full speed all the time when the key is to run. if they do come on, all your relays and harness are working fine. replace the temp sensor.
 

Mudsport96

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2020
Posts
1,420
Reaction score
2,330
Location
40.923,-89.488. Illinois
Okay, so a c-clamp adjusted (and double zip-tied in) so there is just a little flow into the reservoir had a quick warm up and kept temps between 186 and 205 on a road test. Thanks for the assist!

Now to work on the fans. Oh, and the dash gauge just died I expected a good bit of wrenching, so no biggie. Finding Something with minimal rust was a greater concern for me.
Ok so it seems the restriction needs replaced. Don't know if you have access to one, but I used a .45acp casing with the primer removed on multiple Silverado. Just slid it into the hose and hose clamped in place.
 

Breadman03

TYF Newbie
Joined
Oct 7, 2023
Posts
10
Reaction score
27
Ok so it seems the restriction needs replaced. Don't know if you have access to one, but I used a .45acp casing with the primer removed on multiple Silverado. Just slid it into the hose and hose clamped in place.
That’s great! I know I’ve got 9, 10, .40, .454, .45 Colt, .308, and 5.56. Thanks for the suggestion!

Thanks for the temp sensor advice, I confirmed no power to the fans and tested the relays. All three were bad with open circuits across the coil connections. $60 at Autozone and we’ve got working fans and A/C.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
137,719
Posts
1,990,318
Members
102,709
Latest member
SuburbanPassion95

Latest posts

Back
Top