Hello banging my head against the wall on this hoping someone can help. I inadvertently triggered the theft alarm messing with the alternator cable and now I can't get it to start. From research it's the theft system, the fob will lock/unlock but console won't come on, door unlock button on handle doesn't work, steps rails don't come out and the start button won't turn the car on in any way. Pressing/holding start and I get interior lights or side collision lights but that's about it. Oh and the hazards work. I tried pulling the battery several times with no change. I have the fob sitting in the transponder pocket. Not sure what else to try...
2015 Yukon Denali stuck in lockdown
- Thread starter KFPanda
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salisburyv
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on/off with the key either 3 times fast or 5 times fast just on/off then immediately start. try that/ sorry just saw its not a key
Just a WAG, but disconnect the battery and turn the lights on, pump the brakes, etc. to drain residual memory, like you would if pulling the airbag. And/or pull Fuse 29 (Content Theft) in the left side instrument panel fusebox.
either you blew one of the mega fuse on top of the battery or there is a bad ground somewhere, your issue's have nothing to with the security portion
get a meter and check the fuses on top of the battery and check all grounds
that's my best guess anyway, you are not getting full power to all modules.
it will look like this or similar, each section is fused separate, if you blow out one you have to replace the whole thing, they run about $100 or so
I think you are right. The cable crimp touched the case of the alternator when I wiggled it and set the alarm off, seems to have blown something because now that it's dark I see that one drl stays lit with battery connected and one of the brake lights doesn't come on but both flashers do. So overall acting crazy electrically.
How the hell do I test this thing?
With a test light or DC voltmeter.
Connect the negative lead of the test device to ground (negative battery post), then touch the VOM positive lead or test light to each threaded post or the nut on the post. Each post that has a good fuse should read battery voltage or light the test light.
Connect the negative lead of the test device to ground (negative battery post), then touch the VOM positive lead or test light to each threaded post or the nut on the post. Each post that has a good fuse should read battery voltage or light the test light.
Ok, my meter thankfully has a continuity test so I figured out there is not continuity on the 175A fuse that connects to the alternator and another cable so that makes sense. I see one unused fuse but it's only 125A, I guess it's probably not a good idea to try that one just temporarily?
*** Scratch that, 170A alternator..... what about connecting it to the unfused post?
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no you don't want to make things worse, get a new one.
I did the same thing once "sort of" I was installing a stereo amp and the amp was bad out of the box so when I hooked it up and turned everything on it went up in smoke and blew probably the same 170a fuse since I figured that was a good one to use for the amp, truck wouldn't start after that and I figured I was going to have replace a bunch of stuff but I started checking and found that fuse blown, went and bought a new one and thankfully everything worked.
those fuse panels do there job but the engineers need a whack upside the head, makes no sense to make a one piece fuse panel other than ease of assembly on the production line
Yeah I will just get another one. Of course this would happen on Labor Day weekend so I may be grounded until Tuesday at best.
Auto parts stores are open today and tomo….
Dealership service departments all closed today and possibly tomorrow. Advance auto is not going to have this but I am considering going there for a 175A mega fuse and see what I could cobble together.
Ya sure bout that…..
Yes they have those which is what I was referring to cobbling something together on my existing broken block. But no I don't think those stores have the GM battery distribution block # 84354716 that I need.
My bad, I misunderstood.
They actually have it
Best solution I have at the moment is 2 short battery cables with a 175a mega fuse between and connect the cable between the 1st post with the bad fuse and the last post that also connects to the battery positive. I just need to see if the parts store has those bits. That I could drive on indefinitely.
